Wiring things to turn on/off with the key

[karlosdajackal]

Ok so i've been under the seat a few times, and wired up an alarm, a mini-usb and a lighter socket. However all these things go straight to the battery. The alarm obviously needs too, the mini-usb is clever enough not to draw current when its detached so no big deal as i usually take my usb devices with me. The lighter socket can drain my battery in 4 hours if i forget to unplug it and I will as its under the passenger seat.

I would like to wire up the lighter to turn on and off with the key. I have my gps on a ram mount/waterproof case. It will turn on and resume itself when it gets power and turn off itself when the power disconnects, so basically if i get the socket to turn on and off with the key I won't have to remove my gps out of its case once in a whole days worth of riding. usb is not an option on the gps as first the socket is kinda loose and 2nd it would stick out the side of the waterproof case making it not waterproof. Also I'd have to open the case all the time to interact with the sat nav, which is no fun when it rains.

So my question is where do i start
I already have the ground wire hooked up for the lighter. So I only need to relocate the positive wire which has an inline fuse already. Where do i relocate it to? I can see the 3 relay plugs on top of the battery and a bunch of wires coming out of each of them. I can see the terminals on the battery and I can see the fuse box.

If needs be I can cut wires and solder. I'm willing to photo/video the whole exercise too and put up a DIY if it works out and I get some good advice (pay it forward as they say )

[ztrack157]

Tap into the power line running into the ignition. That's what I did with my temp gauge.

[karlosdajackal]

Originally Posted by ztrack157

Tap into the power line running into the ignition. That's what I did with my temp gauge.

Cool, what does it look like and where is it?

Is that the main red wire going to a 30A fuse or is it one of the wires on the relays? Don't suppose you have a pic of where you hooked up the temp gauge wire? I'll go look at the DIY's now in case its in there.

[gogoKawi]

I use the wire that runs to the license plate light for just about everything. Since i have the fender eliminator, the light wasn't used anyways. The line is only active when the bike is on.

[karlosdajackal]

Originally Posted by gogoKawi

I use the wire that runs to the license plate light for just about everything. Since i have the fender eliminator, the light wasn't used anyways. The line is only active when the bike is on.

Cool, and I know that will work. But my concern is the extra current draw on that circuit. My cigarette lighter powering my sat-nav will draw 2amps and the charger is fused at 2.5amp. The cigarette socket is fused at 10amps.

Do we know what the tail light is fused up to? And how much overhead is available? I might end up doing this but I wonder is there an earlier point or source available. Thanks.

[g21-30]

Originally Posted by karlosdajackal

Is that the main red wire going to a 30A fuse or is it one of the wires on the relays? I'll go look at the DIY's now in case its in there.

Have you looked at the DIYs, yet? If you did, you would have seen this one:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=31087

Do you have a service manual? If not, you definitely need a VOM, in order to determine what wires are hot or not and when they are.

The two connectors on top of the battery are NOT relays, if that's what you're talking about splicing into.

[karlosdajackal]

Originally Posted by g21-30

Have you looked at the DIYs, yet? If you did, you would have seen this one:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=31087

Do you have a service manual? If not, you definitely need a VOM, in order to determine what wires are hot or not and when they are.

The two connectors on top of the battery are NOT relays, if that's what you're talking about splicing into.

3 connectors on top of the battery (FI model). What are they?

Ok I seen that link i don't see how it helps me. I don't know the Watts consumed by whatever I plug into my cigarette lighter. All i know is that the device that plugs into it says it 2000mA on it (2 amps) and inside of it there is a 2.5A fuse. On the positive wire I have a 10amp fuse.

Maybe its obvious to you, but its not to me. Are you saying I can piggy back onto say the tail light (we know that's hot with the key right) without blowing any fuse or would we need to figure out what is plugged into the socket first? If that is the case that we could piggy back that wire and job done, although with potential to overload or blow the fuse for the tail light.

How about having it switched with the ignition but not piggy backed onto another circuit?

[karlosdajackal]

ok so if i get a 4 pin 30A relay in halfords, can i put my socket on that with a 10amp fuse, and use the power from the tail light to switch the relay on and off?

Is it that simple?

[g21-30]

That will work.

[Viper-Byte]

Originally Posted by karlosdajackal

ok so if i get a 4 pin 30A relay in halfords, can i put my socket on that with a 10amp fuse, and use the power from the tail light to switch the relay on and off?

Is it that simple?

That will work perfectly, you will be able to draw as much current as the fuse and that wiring will take (not depending on the tail light wiring) I done this exact same setup, except I tapped into the lowbeam headlight for the relay (I had HIDs, so the socket was easily accessible) to run LEDs and heated hand grips

[karlosdajackal]

Originally Posted by Viper-Byte

That will work perfectly, you will be able to draw as much current as the fuse and that wiring will take (not depending on the tail light wiring) I done this exact same setup, except I tapped into the lowbeam headlight for the relay (I had HIDs, so the socket was easily accessible) to run LEDs and heated hand grips

Cool, i have an R+G tail tidy done, and I used screw in connector blocks for the 2 wires I had to cut for the plate light, so I can easily tap into them.