September 3rd, 2016, 11:11 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Carrie
Location: Michigan
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 6
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Won't go past 4000 RPM - Help for a non-mechanic?
I’ve had a 2010 EX250 for about 4 years. When I got it, we had a mechanic in the family who maintained it for me. He was extremely useful but a terrible (and unwilling) teacher, so I never learned much about working on the bike. He’s no longer around, so I’ve been trying to manage on my own for the last two summers. Everything has been fine until this past weekend. I went to ride it and it won’t go past about 4000 RPM. If I try to force it beyond that or kick it up to second gear, it just stalls.
I’m relatively handy, but like I said, I don’t really have any mechanical experience beyond changing the oil. Taking it to a shop will be a massive (and expensive) ordeal since it can’t be ridden, so I really want to at least try to fix it myself. But I don’t know where to start. I've been searching this and other forums and the carburetor seems to be a running theme. If I go through the process of dismantling the bike to that point, are there other things I should be looking for? Any other suggestions at all?? I really, really appreciate any help! I want to be self-sufficient and be able to take care of things on my own, but it's hard to figure out from scratch with no one to guide you. |
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September 4th, 2016, 07:42 AM | #2 |
RIP Alex
Name: Cuong
Location: Houston, TX
Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): '10 250r, '09 265r Posts: A lot.
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Hi Carrie! Welcome to Ninjette!
Have you tried looking to see if your air filter is clean? A badly clogged air filter could be your culprit. What is your mileage on your bike? Is the bike modded for performance? new exhaust/slipon, snorkel delete or airbox delete? If it's relatively stock, I would check your air filter first and then move onto carbs next. The stock rubber lines are very resistant to dry rotting but it is also something you could check yourself.
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September 4th, 2016, 09:24 AM | #3 |
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Name: Hernan
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Welcome, Carrie !!!
You can do most of the service work yourself: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Troubleshooting http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/2008_(and_up)_EX250J_Info
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September 4th, 2016, 02:32 PM | #4 |
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Name: Kerry
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Welcome to the group! Hoping you find your problem and get back to riding!
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September 4th, 2016, 04:51 PM | #5 |
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Name: Gordon
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Bike sitting for some time? How old is fuel?
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September 5th, 2016, 06:18 PM | #6 |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
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Simple things to do first are to check the condition of the air filter (and make sure nothing is blocking the intake snorkel) and change the gas.
Completely draining the gas tank (and the floatbowls) and refilling with fresh gas (87 octane, no ethanol if available) is always a good first step before starting to take stuff apart. |
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September 5th, 2016, 10:48 PM | #7 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Carrie
Location: Michigan
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 6
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Thank you all for the responses! To answer some questions, the bike has about 4900 miles, all stock parts, and was sitting for about 2 1/2 weeks.
I'm starting with the air filter. Cleaned it well, letting it dry overnight, then I'll coat it with oil and reinstall tomorrow and see what happens. It wasn't pretty, but didn't seem all that bad. The outer side was covered in what looked like little black shavings, inner side was perfect, didn't see any wear and tear. I cleaned out the airbox though and there was an elastic circular band in there, about 4" long, 1/2" wide. I can't imagine that's suppose to be there, but I have no idea where it came from. |
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September 6th, 2016, 08:00 AM | #8 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
See if that does it, but if not I'd be prepared to drain the gas. |
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September 7th, 2016, 09:45 PM | #9 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Carrie
Location: Michigan
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 6
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Well, cleaning the air filter didn't do the trick. When I was testing it out I did notice that the engine sounds lower than normal. It's usually a bit high-pitched, but it definitely had a deeper, more guttural quality to it. I also tried revving it in neutral but it still wouldn't go past about 4000 rpm.
Next step, drain the fuel? |
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September 8th, 2016, 06:40 AM | #10 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
Location: North Carolina
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Does closing the throttle part way help or hurt the problem? Do both exhaust pipes heat up equally after starting it?
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September 10th, 2016, 11:21 PM | #11 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Carrie
Location: Michigan
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 6
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I guess closing the throttle helps in that giving it gas past a certain point stalls it. I can't let the clutch out completely without it stalling, but I can hold it in a bit and give it a little gas.
It only has one exhaust pipe, but it does heat up. |
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September 11th, 2016, 06:51 AM | #12 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
Location: North Carolina
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You probably know, but carbs have different circuits internally, for different amounts of throttle opening. Not different RPMs, but different amounts of twist of the grip. Your problem seems to be at wide open throttle. At this setting, the mixture is controlled by the main jets, so I'd look for dirt in them. Partially clogged main jets will cause a problem like yours.
I wondered if you were running on one cylinder, so I wanted you to check the head pipes when you started the engine, to see if they warm up equally quickly. If they do, you can still use an IR thermometer to check their temperature after you experience the problem, and if it's happening on only one cylinder, it will tell you which on is doing it. |
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September 11th, 2016, 08:18 AM | #13 |
ninjette.org member
Name: adam
Location: rhode island
Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): '10 Red Ninja 250r Posts: 45
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Drain your tank, add a gallon of fresh gas and an 2 ounces of seafoam. Start it and choke it to give you a high idle for 5 to 10 min, then turn off the choke and see if it will take more throttle. If it improves enough to ride it, take it for a ride and give it the beans(Italian Tune-up style).
I've had my bike since 2012 and have never had to tear into the carbs, even after sitting for 6 months. The only time I've ever had trouble was when I put Joe Blows discount gas in it. Quality fuel and the appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer if I know I'm not going to ride it for a while. And as always redlining is fine, and actually helps keep it running well.
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September 12th, 2016, 09:45 PM | #14 |
RIP Alex
Name: Cuong
Location: Houston, TX
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Any updates @CBeth88?
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September 12th, 2016, 10:26 PM | #15 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Carrie
Location: Michigan
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 6
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Unfortunately, I got sent out of town for work at the last minute last weekend, so nothing got done. My plan is to drain the fuel and put in fresh with Seafoam and hope that clears out the carbs. Really, really hoping it does because I'm not anxious to go digging into the poor bike any further. I feel like that will only end in tears and a painful mechanic's bill. So fingers crossed! I'll keep you guys posted and any other suggestions in the meantime are more than appreciated!
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September 13th, 2016, 06:59 AM | #16 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
Location: North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
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As a worst case, one of the guys here, Ducatiman, rebuilds carburetors and has great reviews. If it comes to it, you might consider removing the carbs and sending them to him. I don't have personal experience, but I bet it's less expensive than taking the bike to a mechanic.
Also, if it does turn out to be dirt in the carbs, you should install a filter in the fuel line between the gas tank and carbs. In fact I add one to any bike I buy, if it doesn't already have one, just to prevent future headaches. https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=239678 |
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September 13th, 2016, 07:26 AM | #17 |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot.
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Drain the floatbowls as well. Catch what comes out and look for debris or water.
Make sure the battery is fully charged, as it will take some cranking to build vacuum and fill the floatbowls again. |
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September 13th, 2016, 08:11 AM | #18 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Gordon
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Quote:
much less than a dealer...though you are providing R&R labor (remove and replace) a carb refurb *general ballpark estimate* around $130 shipped Cbeth, simply shoot me a PM to go forward, if need be.
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September 13th, 2016, 09:12 AM | #19 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Miguel
Location: MA
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Quote:
"...The outer side was covered in what looked like little black shavings"
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November 28th, 2017, 04:20 PM | #20 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Tommy
Location: Glastonbury
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Change oil filter
Quote:
Neglecting to change it can cause piston rod bearing failure!!!!!! Which means your bike is demolished !!!!! |
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October 21st, 2018, 06:52 AM | #21 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Tharrun
Location: India
Join Date: Oct 2018 Motorcycle(s): Apache 200 Posts: 1
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Problem solved! Simple yet synonymous!
The problem is only with the fact that Water is been mixed with the gasoline. Just drain the petrol from carburetor and let the petrol with fuel mixture leak from the overflow tube! There! Problem solved!! The reason for mixing of water with fuel maybe due to the fact that you may have left the motorcycle on the rain and it may happen after post water - service. So, just drain the fuel water mixture from carburetor and let it drain from overflow tube
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October 21st, 2018, 12:28 PM | #22 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: AKA JacRyann
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Water mixed with fuel will cause running problems under all conditions, not just over 4000rpms. It will cause stumble at idle, stumbling at 1000rpms, stumbling at 2000rpms, stumbling at 3000rpms, etc. This does not happen on the OP's bike, so rain water not an issue in this case. Could be fuel flow-volume issue or electronic and ignition-related.
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