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Old August 10th, 2021, 01:01 PM   #1
petrolhead
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Name: Jarno
Location: Finland
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Motorcycle(s): CBR 650R Ninja 250R

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Track stuff from Finland

Hi
A few videos of a 2009 Ninja 250R on different tracks and some other stuff.
https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCulqQK67M8oGiBvtr8-EoIg
The bike has:
- race fairings
-Bridgestone S22 tyres (110 & 140)
-13/47 sprockets
- lighter battery
-lighter DIY muffler
-DIY rear sets
-some cheap clip ons with soft Renthal grips
-Front brake Brembo P30/34 caliper, stock disc
-Braking 16mm radial master cylinder
-all sorts off zero-bugdet weight savings here and there.
The fairings let me mount the clip ons low enough and helped with ground clearance. Kick stand was also deleted for clearance early on. cylinder, stock disc. Braking feel was much improved and required force reduced with upgrades. Not a firm believer in braided hoses so I used the old brake line, nothing wrong with that.

I'm on instagram as petrolheadjj, some bike related pics there.

Last futzed with by petrolhead; September 9th, 2021 at 02:37 AM. Reason: typos and more info
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Old August 11th, 2021, 02:14 AM   #2
petrolhead
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I repaired the forks this spring (leaks), and replaced the oil with 15W instead of the 10W recommended by shop manual. Otherwise the suspension is stock. It's mainly ridden by a 50kg person so it's not too soft.
The seat foam I cut from an old camping mattress. My son seems happy with the bike, which is the point of the whole exercise.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20210722_181010.jpg (148.9 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20210802_221350_032.jpg (122.0 KB, 3 views)

Last futzed with by petrolhead; August 11th, 2021 at 06:01 AM.
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Old August 12th, 2021, 12:31 AM   #3
petrolhead
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According to Racechrono data, he was doing 47 of lean on your hometrack, so I had to do this. In spite of the bike being at normal height and the pegs being raised by ~4cm. I had the bike lowered by quite a bit when he was starting out.
I have to say I'm impressed with the tyres. We do use tyre warmers but still, they're good for a street tyre. The edges are without grooves and softer compound.
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Last futzed with by petrolhead; August 12th, 2021 at 04:47 AM.
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Old August 14th, 2021, 09:37 AM   #4
CaliGrrl
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Welcome to Ninjette! That's a sharp looking bike.
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Old August 16th, 2021, 12:31 PM   #5
petrolhead
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Thanks.
It's an ongoing project. We have winter twice a year where I live, so that leaves time for wrenching.
I cut, bent and glued some aluminium heat shield on the bottom cowl and added some alu tape. All surplus stuff . Come winter I'll take the fairings, tank and mud guard to a friend for paint.
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Old September 4th, 2021, 10:38 AM   #6
petrolhead
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Does anyone have experience with DIY-mufflers? The bike currently has one, made by me. It's a bit over 2 kilos at the moment. It gained some weight when I added some extra baffles and a dB-killer to get to my desired noise level. I'm not 100% sure anymore that it's nonrestrictive enough because of those parts added as an afterthought.
I have a new design in mind that would weigh 1600-1800g by my calculations. It'd have 2x26mm OD outlets. I'd anyway appreciate anyone's experiences with silencers. The noise limit for this bike at the closest big track is <95dB @4500rpm.

Last futzed with by petrolhead; September 4th, 2021 at 12:33 PM.
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Old September 4th, 2021, 01:34 PM   #7
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Greetings & Salutations!!! Welcome to Ninjette!!!

Mufflers don't do much on this bike for performance other than weight-savings. It's headers that make biggest gains; Tyga has highest power with their full-exhaust.

For mufflers, I played around with several aftermarket versions and modified their innards. What works best for noise-reduction with straight-through design is to have larger outer canister. When exhaust enters muffler, it expands through perforations. The more the expansion, more pulse-pressure variations are absorbed. Expansion also cools exhaust and shrinks volume. This draws flow back into centre core in 2nd-half of muffler and out rear. Also fill gap between inner core and outer chamber with fibreglass or stainless wool packing material.

I would try larger outer canister with thin wall-thickness. Aluminium or CF would give maximum weight-savings. The larger Tyga muffler was definitely quieter than smaller el-cheapo muffler I got from Ali. Smaller Ali muffler weighed 1390gm while Tyga with my Laguna Seca elbow weighs 1620gm.

Some photos and discussions here:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=307767
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=338180

Good articles:
http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Misc/Mu...t_Section3.pdf
https://www.researchgate.net/publica..._vehicle_Noise


Might also consider cutting off kickstand bracket. At some point it will dig into ground and cause crashes. Great job on bike, your son is so lucky!

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; September 4th, 2021 at 06:16 PM.
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Old September 4th, 2021, 02:21 PM   #8
petrolhead
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Hi
Yeah, not expecting to gain hp over stock by playing with silencers. Objective is just low weight, desired noise level and non-restrictiveness. I'm always skeptical about gains from dicking around with exhausts, be it car truck or a bike. Same with air filters. That being said, the bike had a loud straight thru muffler, and it felt punchier than with stock.
I did hack off the kickstand bracket early on. If memory serves it would interfere with those fairings anyway.
Thanks for the tips and kind words. My son's only request with bike mods is always "make it lighter". It's an OK bike to thrash around and practice.
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Old September 4th, 2021, 03:26 PM   #9
DannoXYZ
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You can gain +20% power with Tyga exhaust and DynoJet kit to lean out high-end mixtures. This has been dyno-tested and proven by numerous racers over decades. Makes my bike slightly faster than Ninja 300.

There's numerous no-budget mods I've done to shave weight:

- trim fairing-stay bracket to minimum, just 2-arms to hold upper-fairing, remove all wiring brackets, ~1.5-2kg
- remove factory dash, I used Trailtech Vapour, but Koso RX2N clones are great values
- cut off tail of rear subframe after rear seat mounts, ~4kg
- minimal wiring harness, no extra relays, wiring or unnecessary diodes, ~1.1kg

Here is what's left:


Pieces removed:


Major weight-savings require replacing heavy factory parts like handlebars & electronic controls, wheels, rearsets, etc. My bike's down to 129kg from factory 170kg. Could probably remove another 2-3kg by chopping off all unnecessary tabs and brackets on frame. I've got list of mods somewhere. I'll post it when I find it.

Next significant amounts of weight savings would be to replace largest solid fasteners with titanium versions such as F&R wheel-axles, shock-mount and linkage bolts, dog-bones, brake-mounting bolts, engine-mounting bolts, sprocket-carrier studs & nuts, etc. Another 5-6kg there. Honda uses lots of hollow chromoly bolts on their race-oriented bikes that's comparable to titanium. I might just visit Honda dealer and go through their parts bin.

https://racetechtitanium.com/
https://store.mettec.com/category/238
https://titanclassics.com/
https://www.ti64.com/

as usual, ALOC!

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; September 4th, 2021 at 06:18 PM.
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Old September 5th, 2021, 02:51 AM   #10
petrolhead
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Yea I'm all for zero budget DIY stuff. I havent used titanium fasteners in any of my builds. Certain bolts and nuts need to be replaced because they strecth, so that'd be an expensive exercise.
Cutting off the excess length of bolts saves a meaningful amount of weight.
The battery we have at the moment is Unibat ULT2 (0,9kg). Changing that to a ULT1 would save 0,4kg. The ULT2 is big enough to start a 1000cc V4. I updated the first post.

Last futzed with by petrolhead; September 21st, 2021 at 11:00 PM.
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Old September 7th, 2021, 04:28 AM   #11
petrolhead
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Decent riding gear need not be expensive.
Second hand Alpinestars Supertech boots 25
A stars GP Pro R3 gloves off ebay, once worn.
New Berik suit which has the all important hump.
HJC helmet.
A-stars lv2 back protector w/chest armour which was 60% off.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20210907_142538.jpg (94.7 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20210801_134126.jpg (78.0 KB, 2 views)
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Old September 7th, 2021, 08:05 AM   #12
DannoXYZ
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Awesome deals!

My wife, the expert shopper, found backup 2nd suit, boots and gloves for next to nothing!

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Old September 8th, 2021, 10:44 PM   #13
petrolhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Greetings & Salutations!!! Welcome to Ninjette!!!

Mufflers don't do much on this bike for performance other than weight-savings. It's headers that make biggest gains; Tyga has highest power with their full-exhaust.

For mufflers, I played around with several aftermarket versions and modified their innards. What works best for noise-reduction with straight-through design is to have larger outer canister. When exhaust enters muffler, it expands through perforations. The more the expansion, more pulse-pressure variations are absorbed. Expansion also cools exhaust and shrinks volume. This draws flow back into centre core in 2nd-half of muffler and out rear. Also fill gap between inner core and outer chamber with fibreglass or stainless wool packing material.

I would try larger outer canister with thin wall-thickness. Aluminium or CF would give maximum weight-savings. The larger Tyga muffler was definitely quieter than smaller el-cheapo muffler I got from Ali. Smaller Ali muffler weighed 1390gm while Tyga with my Laguna Seca elbow weighs 1620gm.

Some photos and discussions here:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=307767
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=338180

Good articles:
http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Misc/Mu...t_Section3.pdf
https://www.researchgate.net/publica..._vehicle_Noise


Might also consider cutting off kickstand bracket. At some point it will dig into ground and cause crashes. Great job on bike, your son is so lucky!
No need for jet kits, it's a fuel injected engine.
I'm making the silencer from 0,75mm steel. Bends easily, cheap, reasonably light and I can weld it. Inside piping is 0,9mm wall thickness 25mm pipes.
I was thinking of a section with hole pipes inside wool, then a 15cm chamber then a closed chamber with 2x26mm pipes going thru and to the exit.
edit. Unibat ULT1 is on order. Someone actually bought the previous ULT from me for 35€ .

Last futzed with by petrolhead; September 11th, 2021 at 08:45 AM.
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Old September 9th, 2021, 10:32 AM   #14
DannoXYZ
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FI is even better! Those were able to gain an extra +5bhp over carb bikes for +11bhp over stock! That's close to +30% and definitely faster than Ninja 300!
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Old September 11th, 2021, 08:48 AM   #15
petrolhead
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I checked the factory repair manual. Apparently the stock exhaust has a cat in the collector. Replacing that with a smooth non cat item.. I guess that might help power.
The bike weighs ~143kg with fuel enough for one stint.

Where possible, I use nylon bolts. Cheap and light.
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Last futzed with by petrolhead; September 12th, 2021 at 02:57 AM.
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Old September 16th, 2021, 09:35 AM   #16
petrolhead
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This arrived. Still waiting for a second hand gear display to arrive. No clue whether it'll work on a Ninja but hey, 10€ incl. postage. Wife's kitchen scale says 539 grams.
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Last futzed with by petrolhead; September 16th, 2021 at 10:37 AM.
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Old September 16th, 2021, 06:20 PM   #17
DannoXYZ
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Wow, where did you buy for that price? I want 10 of them!!!

Amazing light thing huh? I had one on my race bike for 3-yrs without any problems. Then I transferred it to my street-bike and accidentally left headlights on when I went to check mail. Talked to neighbor for a bit and when I got back, it was dead, kaput! Good thing race-bikes don't have headlights!
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Old September 17th, 2021, 06:06 AM   #18
petrolhead
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The gear display was 10€. The battery was 71€ w/ postage, from Carpimoto.
Making the new silencer. Probably won't be pretty but perhaps functional. The muffler body will be matte black.
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Last futzed with by petrolhead; September 18th, 2021 at 11:51 AM.
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