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Old June 30th, 2014, 12:02 AM   #1
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i built a car



a 92 honda civic. "donor car" with a "d15b7" 1.5l i4cyl engine that has a blown head gasket. almost done fixing that. once it's out it's going to go into a very special project.
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Old June 30th, 2014, 12:50 AM   #2
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My friend had the exact same thing back in high school!! Maybe he was a po..who knows. Anyways..i wanna know what this project is...

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Old June 30th, 2014, 12:02 PM   #3
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So many memories..

I've had a few 94 civics, one was that same color etc. Got it for 400 with a blown HG if I recall, fixed it in a few days and was reliable and solid for years.

What is this 'project' -- if it's a honda build, I am your man. Built a fair few of those.. but I was always partial to the DOHC engines, the sohcs just didn't make any noticeable torque.
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Old June 30th, 2014, 02:14 PM   #4
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So many memories..

I've had a few 94 civics, one was that same color etc. Got it for 400 with a blown HG if I recall, fixed it in a few days and was reliable and solid for years.

What is this 'project' -- if it's a honda build, I am your man. Built a fair few of those.. but I was always partial to the DOHC engines, the sohcs just didn't make any noticeable torque.

Vtec head coming at "stage 3" of the project along with a small turbo and a full rebuild with new crank bearings and different pistons.

i will be building three frames, the first frame will be 1/4 size, built in very weak solid bar stock- iterations on this for small changes regarding flexibility will happen but it will be pretty close to the spec design. the second frame with be 3/4 size and will be a powered single-seater running an 8hp two stroke 50cc. then finally i will build the real frame jig and then build the final frame. the frame is based on the ariel atom, there are many variations. i'm going towards the mev rocket style front and mid section. my brother is doing the structural analysis. my uncle is a licensed frame builder, so the final product will be registered for street use. i expect to be done with "stage 1" which will be the stock motor in the new frame in a form that can be ridden on track sometime late this year or early next
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Old June 30th, 2014, 02:23 PM   #5
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ooooooh nice. I think somebody got a little too influenced by the new F&F movie lol.

Regardless, that is still awesome. I saw a video a long time ago of a dude that did the same think but put an ls1 i think. blah lol. Ever since then I've wanted to create one.We'll see what happens when my mid-life crisis creeps around.
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Old June 30th, 2014, 02:42 PM   #6
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haven't seen the new f&f movie... did they build a car in it? i recently saw the first one. i liked the part when the computer kid puts up some different paintjobs of a ****** model of the car and paul waker suggests he should teach at MIT. haaaahaha.


not having a mid-life crisis unless i die at 50.
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Old June 30th, 2014, 02:52 PM   #7
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Sounds like a very cool project. Can't wait to see some pics.
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Old June 30th, 2014, 02:54 PM   #8
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I wasn't talking about you having one lol..i was talking about the dude in the video i saw..lol my bad for the confusion!

Dude how have you not seen those movies. I know they're pretty crappy and say some of the dumbest stuff and just doesn't make any sense, but what else is there!? Bullit was a long time ago and nobody's everr gonna make movies like those anymore. They've come a pretty long way from the original movie, though.
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Old June 30th, 2014, 02:57 PM   #9
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I wasn't talking about you having one lol..i was talking about the dude in the video i saw..lol my bad for the confusion!

Dude how have you not seen those movies. I know they're pretty crappy and say some of the dumbest stuff and just doesn't make any sense, but what else is there!? Bullit was a long time ago and nobody's everr gonna make movies like those anymore. They've come a pretty long way from the original movie, though.
why watch other people have fun when you can have fun for yourself?
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Old June 30th, 2014, 03:01 PM   #10
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why watch other people have fun when you can have fun for yourself?
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Old June 30th, 2014, 03:23 PM   #11
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porque there are only 24 hours in a day
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Old June 30th, 2014, 03:43 PM   #12
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Ambitious project, will you make a thread here?

So many questions...
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Old June 30th, 2014, 03:48 PM   #13
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porque there are only 24 hours in a day
We've got the same 24hrs as beyonce. lol
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Old June 30th, 2014, 03:57 PM   #14
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Ambitious project, will you make a thread here?

So many questions...
i think i already did!
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Old June 30th, 2014, 04:06 PM   #15
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Well, then I guess that I'm subscribed.

I'm interested in the structural analysis part.
Too light, too flexy.
Too rigid, too heavy.

Light alloys = $$$
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Old June 30th, 2014, 04:26 PM   #16
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Well, then I guess that I'm subscribed.

I'm interested in the structural analysis part.
Too light, too flexy.
Too rigid, too heavy.

Light alloys = $$$
the final frame will be a DOM stainless steel round tube perimeter trellis frame with a slight arc on the outside. 3" diameter outside rails with 2" center tubes and 1" accessory tubes no fancy alloys. the FE analysis will tell me what tube wall thickness i'll have to use. i think it will be fairly thin though. it will have a full passenger cage, not just head bars. 4-wheel independent dual unbalanced A-arms with in-board shocks and hubs with very low caster and a manual steering rack. hopeful wet weight is around 1100lbs plus passenger. it is not going to go above 200hp and is mid/rear engine, so forward frame twist is not such a big issue as it is with say a lotus 7 or other front engine rear drive cars. it will have about a 40/60 rear weight bias.
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Old June 30th, 2014, 05:35 PM   #17
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Well, then I guess that I'm subscribed.

I'm interested in the structural analysis part.
Too light, too flexy.
Too rigid, too heavy.

Light alloys = $$$
Chromoly is relatively cheap, light and strong. For that matter, so is aluminum.

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Vtec head coming at "stage 3" of the project along with a small turbo and a full rebuild with new crank bearings and different pistons.
Ok let me stop you here. This is a bad plan and here's what you're gonna do instead. Stage 1 goes as planned. Get the d series running and use it the way it is. It'll be perfect for mock-up and shake-downs at the very least, and it'll be nice and reliable for that purpose. Here's where the plan changes. You realize the sohc d series is not a viable performance platform, push it until it fails in a spectacular fashion, and replace it with a simple NA b series swap that'll make all your dreams come true.

Don't get me wrong, I've been in some all motor d-series that were total rockets. But that kind of power out of a d series is a) not easy to achieve b) not even close to sustainable and c) not at all practical. To start, the cost of everything you need for the mini-me swap (z6 frankenstein d15 vtec) would buy you a complete d16z6 swap - and even then you need a lumpy cam and higher compression to see ANY kind of noticeable gains at all. That plus the cost of boosting easily puts you into b16 territory. NA b-series gets you 1000x less headaches, and now you have a motor that's rock solid reliable and actually responds well (unlike d15) to all the dirt cheap bolt-ons available for it. Also, you need an ex or si tranny to get that power to the ground. NEED.
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Old June 30th, 2014, 06:21 PM   #18
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Chromoly is relatively cheap, light and strong. For that matter, so is aluminum.



Ok let me stop you here. This is a bad plan and here's what you're gonna do instead. Stage 1 goes as planned. Get the d series running and use it the way it is. It'll be perfect for mock-up and shake-downs at the very least, and it'll be nice and reliable for that purpose. Here's where the plan changes. You realize the sohc d series is not a viable performance platform, push it until it fails in a spectacular fashion, and replace it with a simple NA b series swap that'll make all your dreams come true.

Don't get me wrong, I've been in some all motor d-series that were total rockets. But that kind of power out of a d series is a) not easy to achieve b) not even close to sustainable and c) not at all practical. To start, the cost of everything you need for the mini-me swap (z6 frankenstein d15 vtec) would buy you a complete d16z6 swap - and even then you need a lumpy cam and higher compression to see ANY kind of noticeable gains at all. That plus the cost of boosting easily puts you into b16 territory. NA b-series gets you 1000x less headaches, and now you have a motor that's rock solid reliable and actually responds well (unlike d15) to all the dirt cheap bolt-ons available for it. Also, you need an ex or si tranny to get that power to the ground. NEED.
if i trip over a free B series like i tripped over this D series, i'll be sure to drag it to my inventory. until then i'll make sure and redline the D until it blows the crank so i can swap in the d16 crank and rods. if that happens before i accidentally stumble over the turbo and intercooler then i'll definitely go with another motor. but if i were to buy a motor i would probably wind up going with a moto engine though i worry about the trans with so much weight. plus all the chain diffs that are common are pretty small so i would probably have to do something fancy there. to be honest the engine will probably be well destroyed along with the car before i get a chance to "supe it up" after the initial build. i have this tendency to crash vehicles when i drive them too fast. and this car will be for the track. the focus of the frame will be safety first, performance and fun second.
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Old June 30th, 2014, 06:24 PM   #19
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Also, you need an ex or si tranny to get that power to the ground. NEED.
it will be getting a dog box eventually. the kit with an adapter plate is only $3k.
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Old June 30th, 2014, 07:47 PM   #20
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Well... Free is free. You did say you bought the car. Still, d series + dogbox does not compute. but at least you have the dogbox for whatever comes next since you'll probably have a tough time destroying that.
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Old June 30th, 2014, 10:14 PM   #21
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it will be getting a dog box eventually. the kit with an adapter plate is only $3k.
Oh yea..i forgot to ask about the tranny. manual, sequential, or what?
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Old July 1st, 2014, 09:12 AM   #22
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Old July 2nd, 2014, 01:37 AM   #23
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I remember the day when I bought an old honda and learned how it worked.

I made that car go fast. Damn that was a fast car.

Some kid kept blowing up the d-series setups, I must've gone through nine of them in 2 years. The third piston from the crank goes first, then the second from the crank.

OP they are tiny engines, get something bigger -- tune it hot, and don't ask it to do as much work. Optimize the cooling system, no extrude honing or any block work beyond a simple port match. Don't get the 22T waterpump unless you've got a vtak head on it, and match up all your part numbers before you consider the total cost.


























The d-series in your picture has power-steering-pump-belt-lining-up-with-crankshaft=-pulley-issues. Don't drive your car until you understand how it works.


If you seize up the engine, I'll buy it from you for a cheap price.
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Old July 2nd, 2014, 02:55 AM   #24
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Build two frames - loan me one - Ill throw a new cobalt engine in it cheap an plentiful.

I don't know anything about hondas - but if you like I can do a few google searchings and tell you all how

the B92 has smaller valve porting than the AK47 block and if you use the galloping gears out of the sequentially dissociative disorder gear box you can get better torque specs.

Chrogenically treat all the parts! all of them!

when you build this amazing vehicle I will out bid whatever Cork offers you by 7USD and a gift certificate to Dennys!

Please post some detailed photos of the whole frame engineering and fabrications process! That will be the fascinating part! I think there are million honda engine build threads on the web. I want to see an atom rip of frame !!!!!
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Old July 2nd, 2014, 08:13 AM   #25
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Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old July 2nd, 2014, 06:34 PM   #26
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[YOUTUBE]MXW0bx_Ooq4[/YOUTUBE



All this ricer talk...

I only speak small-block Chevy.
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Old July 2nd, 2014, 06:50 PM   #27
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...when you build this amazing vehicle I will out bid whatever Cork offers you by 7USD and a gift certificate to Dennys!
I'll have the grand-slam breakfast.
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Old July 2nd, 2014, 08:08 PM   #28
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Old July 2nd, 2014, 10:52 PM   #29
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If it were a b-series I'd be able to tell you exactly where the weak/strong points of the setup would be.

Little rusty on the d-series stuff.
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Old July 4th, 2014, 11:23 AM   #30
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waiting on the intake and exhaust gaskets to come in (picking up today) before i finish putting it back together. AC system has been removed. gonna remove the power steering pump and just cap the ends of the rack. once it's running good and i know its not leaking any more, i'll drop the engine and basically all the important bits out of the car. i think the first step really is making a good build table that you can jig up on so probably tomorrow i'll go get a bunch of wood and build a table in the garage
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Old July 4th, 2014, 09:32 PM   #31
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That's a solid MPFI platform to start with. If you're compression numbers are good across the board, with less than 7% deviation from high-cyl to low-cyl.. you're sitting pretty for a nice turbo setup.

You might have a difficult time getting the wiring harness out of the chassis. The engine harness will come out with the motor quite easily and there are lots of pinouts available online. The difficult may be building your own harness, wire by wire, back to the ECU. Not impossible, I've done it 10+ times, just be very meticulous. A10 to B3. B6 to A4. One at a time, solder it all up. Nothing worse than trying to diagnose loose connections when you're searching for a ghost in the machine.

Looks like you're on the right track. If you need any help, I can ask my cat. He's been project-manager for many of my builds and I have told him to take notes all these years.

If you're going to drive for an extended period of time with the PS disconnected, I recommend you (obviously take the belt off so you don't spin a dry pump) -- and, put a T in the lines you looped on the rack with a vent located up high under the hood so you don't build any pressure and cause cavitation in the fluid etc..
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Old July 4th, 2014, 09:37 PM   #32
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http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3117172

the culmination of a few years of working on the same motor..

my daily driver, when I'm not riding my bike.

I think I tipped 500k views of the build before I stopped paying for the photobucket bandwidth and dropped off the radar due to unviewable images.

Might motivate you if you lose hope half-way through.
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Old July 5th, 2014, 09:11 AM   #33
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@corksil
Start a blog - make money from advertisers and call shops to sponsor your builds

I know two people who make modest livings off of their blogs and they get no where near 500000 page views annually

Nice build thread - why are the photos gone?
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Old July 5th, 2014, 06:54 PM   #34
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Because when you post things on the internet, people heckle you. Then when you tell them to go away, their dick gets hard for your attention, and they heckle you more. Then when you threaten them, they band together and form a mob. Then it's you against the mob.

And dealing with negativity gets tiring.

Sick of the criticism from those basement dwellers who have never even done an oil change before, let alone blue-print a motor from the ground up and custom fabricated parts because they simply weren't available.

Why would I pay 30 bucks a year so I could log in and find 9 negative comments for every 1 positive comment?

If you google "How to remove b series cylinder head" -- I'm the number one link. I don't do any of that SEO or PPC or any kind of marketing. At. All. Ever. I put together a quality piece of work, and posted it for the sole purpose of helping others.

Yet, weekly -- I get negative incoherent emails 'i red ur gyde, gud stuf.. bt how do i rmve 14m blt undr the 17 aftr ps pump cum off? cnnt gt a rnch on it, u shld mke ur gyde bttr cuz nw im stck an no idea wut 2 do?!'

If every viewer donated one cent, the images would be online. Yet, they would rather bitch about this and moan about that. I took my gloves off and refused to play a long time ago.

arguing on the internet is competing in the special olympics.. even if you do win, you're still retarded.
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Old July 5th, 2014, 08:32 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by corksil View Post
Because when you post things on the internet, people heckle you. Then when you tell them to go away, their dick gets hard for your attention, and they heckle you more. Then when you threaten them, they band together and form a mob. Then it's you against the mob.

And dealing with negativity gets tiring.

Sick of the criticism from those basement dwellers who have never even done an oil change before, let alone blue-print a motor from the ground up and custom fabricated parts because they simply weren't available.

Why would I pay 30 bucks a year so I could log in and find 9 negative comments for every 1 positive comment?

If you google "How to remove b series cylinder head" -- I'm the number one link. I don't do any of that SEO or PPC or any kind of marketing. At. All. Ever. I put together a quality piece of work, and posted it for the sole purpose of helping others.

Yet, weekly -- I get negative incoherent emails 'i red ur gyde, gud stuf.. bt how do i rmve 14m blt undr the 17 aftr ps pump cum off? cnnt gt a rnch on it, u shld mke ur gyde bttr cuz nw im stck an no idea wut 2 do?!'

If every viewer donated one cent, the images would be online. Yet, they would rather bitch about this and moan about that. I took my gloves off and refused to play a long time ago.

arguing on the internet is competing in the special olympics.. even if you do win, you're still retarded.
You have to realize that if someone reads your guide and enjoys it and likes it 19/20 times they don't have an account to e-mail you and say "hey good job!" I mean, even if they did, most times they don't bother thanking.

I've been into the youtube scene for years so I know what I'm talking about. It's annoying when you get 1,000 views on a video that generates roughly 40 comments and within those 40, 10-15 are negative/neutral. But those 40 comments only make up less than 5% of the total views. So you ARE helping people, it's just a thankless job.

You should re-upload the images, because it is important to help people. Like I've always said, if you can just help one person then you made the world a better place and it sounds like you've helped lots of people.

Does it cost money to have those pictures uploaded? If no, then why even consider charging people? Free, open source knowledge is very useful, it's what holds me together. Without it I would be taking my bike and car to the mechanic for every tiny little thing.

Take of it what you will, I'm not trying to tell you what to do. But remember it's better to make the world a better place and deal with a few people then just hide. That's how you let these haters/losers win. You-can't-let-it-get-to-you.
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Old July 5th, 2014, 11:17 PM   #36
corksil
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Well maybe you have more faith in humanity than I do. To each their own.

Unlimited photobucket bandwidth is 30 bucks a year. I used to pay for it. All the images are hosted and linked properly, I just hit the free bandwidth limit of 11gb/month quickly with all the views and the images usually become un-viewable within the 3rd or 4th day of each usage cycle/month. Once next month rolls around, the pics are viewable for 3 or 4 days, and then my bandwidth exceeds 11gb/mo and they show up as "look who's popular" links.

Apparently people are too brainless to read "click this to view the image on photobucket.com" -- they just assume the picture is gone or the link is broken.

For what it's worth, I think the bandwidth reset date is the 14th of each month, so for the 15th, 16th, 17th, and sometimes 18th, the pics are back online.

I also find it ironic that the honduh-tech poster who would flame me and my builds the hardest took it upon himself to actually download each of the 200-some pictures in one of my more popular DIYs, rehost them on his own server, and give out the link to people who would tickle his balls gently enough to make him feel like giving them the link.

In life, some people do work. Everyone can benefit from that work, when they document it. Others don't do work, but feel entitled to criticize everyone else's work to no end. I am quite fed up with the latter, therefore I've stopped documenting my work.

Good luck to you and your youtube career however.. perhaps you are a better man than me. Maybe you're a martyr. When I feel criticized, I write that person off as an asshole, and go about my business in solitude.
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Old July 5th, 2014, 11:28 PM   #37
corksil
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Sorry alex, I didn't mean to hijack your thread.

What's the status on your ride?

(Oh, and if anyone wants evidence to back up my statements, look up any of the hundreds of shop owners, CEO's, part distributors in the industry, tuning shops, engineers, and did-it-for-the-first-time-a-blazed-their-own-trail mechanics who pioneered the modification industry for these hondas.. You won't find a single one of them still actively posting. It's a shame, really.)

I never took my little CRX monster to the local drag strip. Instead, I went to the 1320 and took notes on every single setup, every single pass, and every single time. And then I went into the hills and found a 1/2 mile of straight road. And at 4am, I beat every single time and stroked my own ego until I felt satisfied. No, I didn't document it. And if you want proof, you can go hang with the other honda kiddies and discuss sohc-this, dohc-that without any real knowledge of what's going on under the hood. No knowledge of which way the oil passages inside the block push the fluid, no knowledge of the specs and tolerances in the main bearings required to break the 100hp/liter WHP barrier, or the 150hp/liter barrier, no knowledge of which ringland goes first on which cylinder and for what reason.. I'm content to sit at my desk and put my day job down with my wrenches when the sun goes down.





Yeah, I'm so cooool. That felt good, I will admit. Nothing to see here, move along. Back on topic.
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Old July 5th, 2014, 11:34 PM   #38
corksil
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Old July 9th, 2014, 11:44 PM   #39
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Old July 10th, 2014, 01:24 AM   #40
corksil
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good luck with that left-side.

At this point in the project you should inspect the steering rack bushings and dust cover bellows.

Blow the dead leaves off the windshield wiper cover cowling.

Check the spot-welds around the shock towers, inspect the chassis for fatigue points, mainly the LCA or RLCA.. for all you folks at home, that's the lower control arm. Otherwise known as the rear lower control arm.


EDIT -- apparently OP isn't trying to build racecar, so the only thing he should consistently focus on is engine health.
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