December 5th, 2013, 06:59 AM | #1 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: bob
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Bike stalling at lights on morning commute.
So I was on my way to work this morning and my bike kept stalling at most of the stop lights. I adjusted the idle and it helped a little bit but it still stalled again right by work. I ran low on gas yesterday and had to switch it reserve but it perked right back up and I went and got some fresh gas. The weather was pretty warm this morning and didn't even have to use choke to get it going so I don't think it's a temperature isse. Things I am going to check when I get it home:
- See if choke needs to be adjusted - Check to see if the fuel filter is clogged since I ran low yesterday. - Make sure the oil is at correct level - Mess with the idle some more It is past due for a valve check so that may well be it but the idle acting squirrely leads me to think its fuel/carb issue. It still has the original in-line fuel filter on there but it doesn't have that many miles on it. Any other thoughts on what to check? Last futzed with by agentbad; December 5th, 2013 at 10:26 AM. |
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December 5th, 2013, 07:11 AM | #2 |
The Corner Whisperer
Name: Chris (aka Reactor)
Location: Northern KY
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Check
Air Filter and airbox Gas tank venting Vac leaks Valves checked Take a peak at the battery terminals too, clean and tight (long shot) Carbs clean?
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December 5th, 2013, 07:15 AM | #3 |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
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If you can get to the idle mixture screw, check their setting. Normal base is 2 1/2 turns out. Depending on temps (colder) you may need to go out more. Another way to set the idle mixture is to adjust for the highest RPM, then go just slightly (1/8 turn out or so) richer.
If the temps have been fluctuating, and the tank has been low, you may have some amount of condensation (moisture) in the tank. Always keep the tank as full as possible to avoid it. If you are in an area that has "winter", be sure to change all of the fuel over to winter-blend when it's getting around 50 degrees. That will help get it started in cooler temps. Old summer-blend gas will give you problems at that point. Add stabilizer to the new fuel if it will be stored. You may want to drain the floatbowls and see how the fuel looks and if there's any water. I'd check the fuel filters also. After setting the idle mixture, set the idle speed to 1300. |
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December 5th, 2013, 09:16 AM | #4 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: bob
Location: Earf
Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Ninja 250, 2006 SV650N Posts: 642
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Well I learned at least one thing when I checked it on my break. The petcock is definetly bad because I had left it on Reserve when parked and gas was dripping out of the pods in the back pretty bad. I also tried starting it and it made a wierd sound and wouldn't start at first. I moved it and put it on the center stand to look around and didn't see anything strange and it has oil in the window. Took it back down and I got it started but that was pretty scary because I thought it may have seized.
Last futzed with by agentbad; December 6th, 2013 at 04:38 PM. |
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December 5th, 2013, 09:48 AM | #5 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
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Quote:
The needle and seat in the carb controls when the fuel stops flowing, so I'd say yours isn't seating completely. Debris in the fuel that gets stuck under the needle can cause leaking, as can a worn needle/seat or incorrect float adjustment. |
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December 5th, 2013, 10:05 AM | #6 | ||
ninjette.org sage
Name: bob
Location: Earf
Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Ninja 250, 2006 SV650N Posts: 642
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Quote:
Quote:
Last futzed with by agentbad; December 5th, 2013 at 11:41 AM. |
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December 5th, 2013, 11:48 AM | #7 |
wat
Name: wat
Location: tustin/long beach
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ran out of gas, now its a rough idle. its a common issue- **** in the gas tank that normally floats goes down the drain and into your carbs to clog your pilot jets.
put fuel treatment in a half tank of gas and flog the girl
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December 5th, 2013, 12:12 PM | #8 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
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Quote:
If you choose something else, I'd go with the same grades - 5W-40. A 5W moves easier and lubricates better at cold start-up. That's the most critical time for wear. Rotella also has good levels of ZDDP which prevent wear in high pressure areas like cam lobes. Most cycle and diesel oils (Rotella, Delvac) will have 1200 + ppm of Zinc and Phosphorus, some will have more. Never use standard automotive oils - even high-end synthetics. Current auto oils have only 700-800 ppm - which isn't enough for cycle engines. |
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December 5th, 2013, 01:03 PM | #9 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: bob
Location: Earf
Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Ninja 250, 2006 SV650N Posts: 642
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Would seafoam do the trick or should I use something else?
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December 5th, 2013, 02:02 PM | #10 |
wat
Name: wat
Location: tustin/long beach
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the new formulation of t6 has about half the content of zinc as before according to their website. current rotella i believe was around 400 ppm zinc compared to the old 1000ish
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December 5th, 2013, 02:11 PM | #12 |
The Corner Whisperer
Name: Chris (aka Reactor)
Location: Northern KY
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much.
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December 5th, 2013, 03:31 PM | #14 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: bob
Location: Earf
Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Ninja 250, 2006 SV650N Posts: 642
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Well she made it home. I put some seafoam in the gas and took her for a ride. Seems to be doing better. If there was gunk in the pilots it's gone now. I'll scoop a fuel filter tom so this doesn't happen again. Valves and oil are next on the list. Thanks yall.
Last futzed with by agentbad; December 6th, 2013 at 06:26 AM. |
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December 5th, 2013, 03:46 PM | #15 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
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Quote:
Can you send me a link to the info? |
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December 5th, 2013, 04:04 PM | #16 |
wat
Name: wat
Location: tustin/long beach
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i'm too lazy to find it, but according to wikipedia, "The newer fully synthetic T6 5W-40 oil lists JASO-MA compliance on its packaging and on the Rotella website.", which means it's probably fine in our bike
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December 5th, 2013, 07:23 PM | #17 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
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Quote:
Zinc - 1257 Phosphorus - 1123 JASO-MA means it is rated for use in wet clutch applications. For a good, low cost, synthetic 40 weight oil for general motorcycle use it's hard to beat T6 IMO. |
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December 6th, 2013, 04:04 AM | #18 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: harry
Location: Central Florida
Join Date: Sep 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Ninja 250, 2004 Buell XB12s, Honda 110 Elite Posts: 332
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Oil
Rotella is dern good oil. I, however use Amsoil. In my Buell, simply changing the oil from Mobil 1 to Amsoil lowered the average operating oil temp 22 degrees with no other changes under identical environmental conditions.
Amsoil is also the OEM oil for the only American Superbike, EBR. They chose it because it proved to lubricate the crank bearings better than any of the 14 different oils they tested.
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December 6th, 2013, 04:58 AM | #19 |
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December 6th, 2013, 07:48 AM | #20 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
There had to be a some difference in viscosity to make that much of a change. A lighter weight oil will move faster and carry more heat away than a heavier oil. |
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December 6th, 2013, 02:05 PM | #21 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: bob
Location: Earf
Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Ninja 250, 2006 SV650N Posts: 642
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So I got off work and took the fuel hose off to check the filter thinking it would be pretty nasty looking. There isn't one even there!!!! That crap from the bottom of my tank went straight into the carbs. Now on my way to get a new clear hose and fuel filter. I am surprised I didn't have trouble like this before without a filter in the thing. Whoever had this bike before didn't give a **** about keeping it maintained.
Last futzed with by agentbad; December 6th, 2013 at 04:33 PM. |
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