Need new brakes!

[corksil]

Maybe someone could PM me their 'go-to' setup in terms of a brake rebuild..

I checked partzilla, and it was $350 for a replacement front rotor alone (OEM) -- same as what the local shop quoted..

Must be some aftermarket rotors and pads I can get on the cheap.. My front is 4.4mm (spec is 4.5) -- and the grooves are pretty severe. Pad is paper-thin. The rear is still within spec, and it has 20% pad life left, but if I could find a decent deal I wouldn't mind replacing front and rear rotors and pads, along with flushing brake fluid out of my SS braided lines.

For what it's worth, I'm at 25k miles on the clock and have no plans to sell this bike until I hit 50k to justify what I spent on it.

Thanks guys, my tires should be arriving any day now, also need to order some new hand grips, clean/tension/lube my chain, fix my license plate blinker light..

Also considering valve adjustment and front fork oil change.. Oh dear the list just doesn't end. Thanks for the help finding brake parts!

[DmbShn41]

For the pads, I've seen packages on Amazon around $22 for front and rear pads. Haven't seen rotor prices, but haven't searched...Hope this helps? Sorry.

[csmith12]

Pads: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/200805532198?lpid=82 (front and rear are the same)
Rotor: http://www.madhornets.com/front-brak...FStk7AodUXAAZQ

Around one big face.

Flush, fill and bleed. That will be all the braking power you ever need.

[corksil]

Ordered front and rear pads, and front and rear rotors. Mic'd my front at 3.82mm this morning (spec 4.0mm) -- and rear at 4.41mm (4.5mm spec).

Doesn't look like I'll need any specialty tools to get this done.

Just hit 25k on the clock, this bike is getting an overhaul. Going to adjust valves, tension chain, clean/lube chain, etc etc..

Do you like this for brake fluid? I run it in my BUILT honda track-car, and no complaints there.

http://www.amazon.com/ATE-706202-Ori.../dp/B003VXRPL0

ATE TYP 200 Dot4.. Or should I say Dot$.

Already have braided SS lines front and back.

Anything you would do differently about this brake rebuild? You seem to be a pretty serious rider, I want to set my bike up so when I really push it hard and still don't go fast, I can't blame the machine. Having a power "cap" is nice -- and it feels very nice to NAIL a turn and know that the only thing holding you back from a quicker time is the 250cc's of motor between your legs.

Thanks.

[csmith12]

I can't say anything about that fluid as I have no experience with it. Seems like it will work just fine though.

Would I do anything different? Naw, you're on your way man. I just have OCD when it comes to my brakes. Even with just 1mm of pad left, my brakes feel better than a lot of other riders brakes after a fresh service. Honestly, the hardest part comes after you get all the parts cleaned up and installed. Bleeding the system of every, and I mean every little air bubble, as well as bedding the pads in pays big dividends in the braking zone.

Basically, what I am saying is... put just as much time and attention into your braking power as you do your engine power. Getting your braking complete in 150ft vs 300ft can drop whole seconds off your lap times. ijs

[corksil]

Quite pleased to have someone who works as hard as I do available for advice. Like I said, that stuff is on the way.

My brakes have actually been getting progressively more spongy -- some idiot stripped out the brake fluid (front) reservoir philips screw, so I had to drill it out and use some zinc-plated home depot replacement. Which has since rusted, and I suspect if the whole shaft of the screw has rusted as badly as the head, it has allowed the fluid to become compromised. Ordering two of the reservoir screws now to alleviate this concern.

The lever also feels "notchy" -- any idea what might cause this?

That is to say, squeeze the lever, apply brakes, squeeze harder and harder and harder, nothing and then you can feel it "click" and suddenly you have more braking power.

"The throw of the lever is not smooth." It requires a certain amount of force to apply the brakes, but applying them more aggressively means squeezing harder and harder and then suddenly feels like the lever "clicks" and moves more and then you have more braking power... Maybe things just need lube -- that's what I figure I'll find out.

Thanks dude.

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by corksil

The lever also feels "notchy" -- any idea what might cause this?

That is to say, squeeze the lever, apply brakes, squeeze harder and harder and harder, nothing and then you can feel it "click" and suddenly you have more braking power.

"The throw of the lever is not smooth." It requires a certain amount of force to apply the brakes, but applying them more aggressively means squeezing harder and harder and then suddenly feels like the lever "clicks" and moves more and then you have more braking power... Maybe things just need lube -- that's what I figure I'll find out.

Thanks dude.

Yes, I know that feeling. You might want to check your brake caliper pistons. There is most likely a full or partial line around one or both of the caliper pistons. When you pull hard enough, it finally "clicks" through the seal. Clean off the corrosion line, there will be no more "click" feel.

[corksil]

Damn this is turning out to a bigger rebuild than I thought it would be..

Guess I'll be tearing apart calipers front and rear and cleaning everything out inside as well..

Should I get any seals or anything needed on order? Just about ready to order grips as soon as I decide and then it's all in the mail and this bike is literally on it's last legs... Just buzzed down to the laundromat and back and I can feel it complaining in so many ways. Don't worry sad little machine I will save you oh-so-soon and restore you to your former glory!

Thanks dude I appreciate your assistance.

[csmith12]

You will know if you need new seals when you tear it apart. If the seals are failing, then it's time. It's a visual check but they're cheap enough to order and shelve them until needed.

[salcuta88]

I see you already ordered pads, but for future reference, check this out.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=190203

[sharky nrk]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Basically, what I am saying is... put just as much time and attention into your braking power as you do your engine power. Getting your braking complete in 150ft vs 300ft can drop whole seconds off your lap times. ijs

PFFFFTTTT...... come on down Chris, you know fastest way around the track is to forget the brakes, downshift a gear and hope like hell you have enough front end grip to scrub off the speed

And then a few seconds later pick yourself and the bike up from the weeds

[csmith12]

^^^ Lol, have you been talking to the MCRA crew? Been there, done that, got the t-shirt and a free ride in the crash truck.

[corksil]

Originally Posted by sharky nrk

PFFFFTTTT...... come on down Chris, you know fastest way around the track is to forget the brakes, downshift a gear and hope like hell you have enough front end grip to scrub off the speed

And then a few seconds later pick yourself and the bike up from the weeds

THIS MAN IS ONTO SOMETHING!

I've felt this exact feeling multiple times. Haven't dumped the bike yet (crossing fingers) -- but I know this EXACT feeling. When you come into a turn too hot, the front tire goes wide, you hang on and pray like hell, slide to the outside of the turn, then all of a sudden the bike is pointed and planted and you're wondering why you weren't on the throttle sooner because when you roll on, the bike bogs because you're one gear too high.

And it all happens so fast. Literally instantaneously and then you finish the turn and sweat bullets and wonder wtf just happened and how you didn't dump the bike and smash your face on the tarmac.

And then the adrenaline kicks in and you charge to next turn and hope it doesn't happen again with the logical brain meanwhile the adrenaline is screaming (do it AGAIN! That was FUN!).

[csmith12]

Yea, he is onto something, but be careful with that stuff. Please do understand that what he is talking about is quick flicking it to knee down @ 97mph into a corner. On the track in question, I have pulled it off only 3 times in 40 track days & 8 or so races, each time praying for my life. I stopped doing that after binning it two times, I don't want it THAT bad.

[corksil]

chris you sound like a beastly machine of an animal bike flicking bad motherufcker.

thanks for the part numbers, gonna try to call the companies today and get the parts on order before the weekend but today is supposed to be my day off.

rly appreciate it.

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by corksil

chris you sound like a beastly machine of an animal bike flicking bad motherufcker.

thanks for the part numbers, gonna try to call the companies today and get the parts on order before the weekend but today is supposed to be my day off.

rly appreciate it.

My pleasure mang, hope the install goes well.

Beastly, bike flickin', machine? Naw, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.

Link to original page on YouTube.

[rc racer]

Originally Posted by corksil

Quite pleased to have someone who works as hard as I do available for advice. Like I said, that stuff is on the way.

My brakes have actually been getting progressively more spongy -- some idiot stripped out the brake fluid (front) reservoir philips screw, so I had to drill it out and use some zinc-plated home depot replacement. Which has since rusted, and I suspect if the whole shaft of the screw has rusted as badly as the head, it has allowed the fluid to become compromised. Ordering two of the reservoir screws now to alleviate this concern.

The lever also feels "notchy" -- any idea what might cause this?

That is to say, squeeze the lever, apply brakes, squeeze harder and harder and harder, nothing and then you can feel it "click" and suddenly you have more braking power.

"The throw of the lever is not smooth." It requires a certain amount of force to apply the brakes, but applying them more aggressively means squeezing harder and harder and then suddenly feels like the lever "clicks" and moves more and then you have more braking power... Maybe things just need lube -- that's what I figure I'll find out.

Thanks dude.

Besides checking the brake caliper pistons make sure the its clean, smooth and lubricated where the brake lever contacts the master cylinder plunger. A little dirt/corrosion in there can also give the same symptom you describe.

I clean mine with contact cleaner and a q-tip. Then a small dab of moly grease. No disassembly required.

[csmith12]

^^^ Great tip!

[corksil]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Yea, he is onto something, but be careful with that stuff. Please do understand that what he is talking about is quick flicking it to knee down @ 97mph into a corner. On the track in question, I have pulled it off only 3 times in 40 track days & 8 or so races, each time praying for my life. I stopped doing that after binning it two times, I don't want it THAT bad.

You said you pulled it off three times..

And you binned her twice, that would mean your odds are good and I highly recommend you perfect the technique and teach it to me.

Seriously, thanks for your help dude.