Bolts stuck on front brake caliper

Lap202 · August 4th, 2016, 02:00 PM

Title says it all, I need to swap out my speedo drive, so tire needs to cone off, but can't get these bolts to budge. Yes ime turning them counter clockwise.

My other option is the reason I have to replace drive is when I rotate the cable that's still attached, it spins the threading also.

Help!

ForceofWill · August 4th, 2016, 02:03 PM

You have a breaker bar?

Lap202 · August 4th, 2016, 02:05 PM

Um no, might try the pipe method and see if it comes loose. Literrally bent the connector on my socket wrench using a pipe -.-

ForceofWill · August 4th, 2016, 02:12 PM

Man, shop must have put them on with an impact gun lol. I've sheared off the 3/8" drive on a breaker bar before but that's hard to do with a normal sized socket wrench. Did you stand on it or are you just a beast?

Either way, you might be better off hitting the wrench handle with a mallet to jar them loose, if they're already on that tight.

Lap202 · August 4th, 2016, 02:17 PM

Well I used a broken hockey stick so had a ton of leverage :P

csmith12 · August 4th, 2016, 02:17 PM

When pressure will not do... you need heat or vibration. Heat is easy via a propane torch from the hardware store. Vibration is a bit more expensive but worth every penny in the end.

SLOWn60 · August 4th, 2016, 02:23 PM

....Ok what am I missing here

Why are you taking the calliper off to remove the wheel & speedo?

You do need to service those bolts sometime but not to do what you've originally set out to do.

csmith12 · August 4th, 2016, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SLOWn60

....Ok what am I missing here

Why are you taking the calliper off to remove the wheel & speedo?

While we both know that it is not a requirement, there is no harm either.

SLOWn60 · August 4th, 2016, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by csmith12

While we both know that it is not a requirement, there is no harm either.

You beat me to my edit! You need to get a real job!

csmith12 · August 4th, 2016, 02:29 PM

SLOWn60 · August 4th, 2016, 02:36 PM

LOL! @csmith12; my mom has a lot of pictures of me with that expression!

Sorry OP for the thread jack. I'll try to find the thread on this forum about 6 months old that thoroughly covers this very problem of seized calliper bolts. Lots of great info in it!

SLOWn60 · August 4th, 2016, 02:42 PM

Turns out that thread was calliper pad pins but the same remedies would apply:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=109517

csmith12 · August 4th, 2016, 03:38 PM

As an old hand at turning a wrench myself. I totally forgot about the #1 goto. Penetrating oil soak/spray for about 15 or so mins. In KY that would be WD40, in other areas that would be liquid wrench. lol

Hellmutt · August 4th, 2016, 04:19 PM

If you're trying to pull the caliper mount bolts and they're seized, and you dont have an impact gun....use the boxed end of THE CORRECT SIZED combo wrench. Make sure the wrench is firmly against the sidewall of the bolt so it's ready to loosen and strike it with a deadblow hammer. May take a few good whacks to get it to break loose. Seems someone overtorqued those. Shouldn't be but maybe 25-30 ftlb.
FWIW, I rarely break wheel end fasteners loose with a socket wrench. Almost always use combo wrench to get them untorqued, then ratchet out or turn by hand.
Oh, and once they're out....put a dab of antiseize on those threads before you put it back together....makes it much easier the next time

Lap202 · August 4th, 2016, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SLOWn60

....Ok what am I missing here

Why are you taking the calliper off to remove the wheel & speedo?

You do need to service those bolts sometime but not to do what you've originally set out to do.

Does the wheel just come off, would make my life so much easier!

SLOWn60 · August 4th, 2016, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lap202

Does the wheel just come off, would make my life so much easier!

Yes. Just slide out the axle and the wheel drops right out. You do have to tilt the wheel to clear the caliph but it's simple & pretty obvious. Just be sure not to squeeze the brake lever!

Hellmutt · August 4th, 2016, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lap202

Does the wheel just come off, would make my life so much easier!

The rotor and wheel should clear the caliper.
What I do for my wife's 300 is get the front of the bike off the ground AFTER you loosen the axle, you could topple the bike while breaking the axle loose while on a stand. I support the tire with a couple planks of wood under it to take the load off of the axle, then drive the axle out. Take note which axle spacer goes on which side when you take the wood planks out from under the tire, cant remember if they're different on these bikes or are the same part.

Lap202 · August 4th, 2016, 10:47 PM

My lifting technique involves driving it up a car ramp and having a friend help me lift it off the end and set it on the engine :P then he'll hold it till I'm done

ForceofWill · August 5th, 2016, 04:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lap202

My lifting technique involves driving it up a car ramp and having a friend help me lift it off the end and set it on the engine :P then he'll hold it till I'm done

Just think if you had a front headlift stand!

adouglas · August 5th, 2016, 04:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by csmith12

When pressure will not do... you need heat or vibration. Heat is easy via a propane torch from the hardware store. Vibration is a bit more expensive but worth every penny in the end.

VERY VERY important note... if you ever use an impact wrench (or a hand-held manual impact driver), DO NOT use it to tighten a fastener. The torque it applies (hundreds of ft-lb, delivered over a very brief time, over and over) can easily snap a stud or stretch threads.

Mechanics do use impact guns to install big, non-critical fasteners (e.g. lug nuts) because it's faster, so it can be done... but it doesn't gain you anything except a few seconds and it's very risky.

Super-handy for getting stuff off, though. I have a simple hand-held impact driver (the kind you whack with a mallet) and it's saved my bacon on a few occasions.

If you want to use a power tool to put stuff on, use a cordless drill or ratchet, then finish off with a torque wrench.

csmith12 · August 5th, 2016, 05:18 AM

You're so right good sir! There is not one single bolt on my bikes that I would use that to torque down. The cordless drills that have clutches on them are even better for preventing overtorquing.

JohnnyBravo · August 5th, 2016, 05:32 AM

I hate working on stuff after an idiot hahaha, you wouldn't believe some of the crazy stuff I've seen, and once maybe I've been the idiot someone else worked after

ForceofWill · August 5th, 2016, 05:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by csmith12

You're so right good sir! There is not one single bolt on my bikes that I would use that to torque down. The cordless drills that have clutches on them are even better for preventing overtorquing.

This.

I love my Bosch 18v, just set the clutch really low and it saves me lots of time installing bolts.

August 4th, 2016, 02:17 PM	#5
Lap202 The Mechanical Noob Name: Andrew Location: Brookings, South Dakota Join Date: Aug 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 66	Well I used a broken hockey stick so had a ton of leverage :P
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

August 4th, 2016, 02:17 PM	#6
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	When pressure will not do... you need heat or vibration. Heat is easy via a propane torch from the hardware store. Vibration is a bit more expensive but worth every penny in the end. __________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School

August 4th, 2016, 02:23 PM	#7
SLOWn60 n00bie to wannabie Name: Bill Location: St Ives, BC (Shuswap Lake) Join Date: Sep 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2012 250R (Red), 2005 VFR800A (Red), CRF450X (Red), 2012 F800GS (Wants to be Red!) Posts: A lot. MOTM - Nov '15	....Ok what am I missing here Why are you taking the calliper off to remove the wheel & speedo? You do need to service those bolts sometime but not to do what you've originally set out to do. __________________________________________________ The Smart Money: #1 - ATGATT, #2 - Training (machine skills and survival skills), #3 - The bike; whatever floats yer boat with the money you have left over

August 4th, 2016, 02:29 PM	#10
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	__________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

August 4th, 2016, 02:36 PM	#11
SLOWn60 n00bie to wannabie Name: Bill Location: St Ives, BC (Shuswap Lake) Join Date: Sep 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2012 250R (Red), 2005 VFR800A (Red), CRF450X (Red), 2012 F800GS (Wants to be Red!) Posts: A lot. MOTM - Nov '15	LOL! @csmith12; my mom has a lot of pictures of me with that expression! Sorry OP for the thread jack. I'll try to find the thread on this forum about 6 months old that thoroughly covers this very problem of seized calliper bolts. Lots of great info in it! __________________________________________________ The Smart Money: #1 - ATGATT, #2 - Training (machine skills and survival skills), #3 - The bike; whatever floats yer boat with the money you have left over
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

August 4th, 2016, 02:03 PM	#2
ForceofWill Blind 250 Loving Whore Name: Tom Location: Chesapeake, VA Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250R, 02 FZ1, '20 Fat Bob 114 Posts: A lot.	You have a breaker bar?

August 4th, 2016, 02:12 PM	#4
ForceofWill Blind 250 Loving Whore Name: Tom Location: Chesapeake, VA Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250R, 02 FZ1, '20 Fat Bob 114 Posts: A lot.	Man, shop must have put them on with an impact gun lol. I've sheared off the 3/8" drive on a breaker bar before but that's hard to do with a normal sized socket wrench. Did you stand on it or are you just a beast? Either way, you might be better off hitting the wrench handle with a mallet to jar them loose, if they're already on that tight.

August 4th, 2016, 02:42 PM	#12
SLOWn60 n00bie to wannabie Name: Bill Location: St Ives, BC (Shuswap Lake) Join Date: Sep 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2012 250R (Red), 2005 VFR800A (Red), CRF450X (Red), 2012 F800GS (Wants to be Red!) Posts: A lot. MOTM - Nov '15	Turns out that thread was calliper pad pins but the same remedies would apply: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=109517 __________________________________________________ The Smart Money: #1 - ATGATT, #2 - Training (machine skills and survival skills), #3 - The bike; whatever floats yer boat with the money you have left over

August 4th, 2016, 03:38 PM	#13
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	As an old hand at turning a wrench myself. I totally forgot about the #1 goto. Penetrating oil soak/spray for about 15 or so mins. In KY that would be WD40, in other areas that would be liquid wrench. lol __________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

August 4th, 2016, 04:19 PM	#14
Hellmutt Vanilla Gorilla Name: Jason Location: Western Ohio Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): '11 Triumph Sprint GT & '06 625SMC Posts: 79	If you're trying to pull the caliper mount bolts and they're seized, and you dont have an impact gun....use the boxed end of THE CORRECT SIZED combo wrench. Make sure the wrench is firmly against the sidewall of the bolt so it's ready to loosen and strike it with a deadblow hammer. May take a few good whacks to get it to break loose. Seems someone overtorqued those. Shouldn't be but maybe 25-30 ftlb. FWIW, I rarely break wheel end fasteners loose with a socket wrench. Almost always use combo wrench to get them untorqued, then ratchet out or turn by hand. Oh, and once they're out....put a dab of antiseize on those threads before you put it back together....makes it much easier the next time

August 4th, 2016, 10:47 PM	#18
Lap202 The Mechanical Noob Name: Andrew Location: Brookings, South Dakota Join Date: Aug 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 66	My lifting technique involves driving it up a car ramp and having a friend help me lift it off the end and set it on the engine :P then he'll hold it till I'm done

August 5th, 2016, 05:18 AM	#21
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	You're so right good sir! There is not one single bolt on my bikes that I would use that to torque down. The cordless drills that have clutches on them are even better for preventing overtorquing. __________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

August 5th, 2016, 05:32 AM	#22
JohnnyBravo Certifiable nontundrum Name: Harper Location: NC Milkshake stand Join Date: Mar 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2013 SE NINJA 300 Posts: Too much. MOTM - Sep '13, Sep '16	I hate working on stuff after an idiot hahaha, you wouldn't believe some of the crazy stuff I've seen, and once maybe I've been the idiot someone else worked after __________________________________________________

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