Front brake lever doesn't return to original position

[asdfman]

Sometimes (not all the time), my front brake lever doesn't return back to its original position when I let it go. I notice this happens if I let go of the brake slowly rather than release it quickly. While I'm pretty sure my brakes are off when it does this, my brake light stays on because it doesn't go back enough to click off the sensor. I just use my hand to manually push it back out. Does anyone have any hints on what's causing this and what I can do to fix it?

So far I've tried bleeding the brakes (also changed fluid) and mashing the lever, so I don't think it's an air problem. I haven't tried zip-typing the lever overnight. I do notice that WD40 helps (it could just be confirmation bias) - if that's the case, perhaps there's some friction on the lever?

[InvisiBill]

Have you thoroughly cleaned the pistons and calipers? As your brake pad wears down, more of the piston is exposed and crud builds up on it. If you don't clean that off, it won't seal properly.

[csmith12]

Clean and grease the lever perch?

[Foxrider64]

Remove the lever from the speech and clean the pivot point with wd40 and then put some grease on it.

Sometimes the build up causes it to stick.

[asdfman]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

Have you thoroughly cleaned the pistons and calipers? As your brake pad wears down, more of the piston is exposed and crud builds up on it. If you don't clean that off, it won't seal properly.

I'll give it a shot. I don't feel any additional friction when I spin the front wheel, so I'm not sure if its a piston retracting issue, but doesn't hurt to give a good cleaning anyways. Thanks.

Originally Posted by csmith12

Clean and grease the lever perch?

Do you have instructions on how this is done? Normally I'd just take things apart and put them back together until they work again, but I'm a bit more timid about brakes.

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Foxrider64

Remove the lever from the speech and clean the

I love autocorrect

Sorry @asdfman, I don't have a DIY or link to a howto but it shouldn't be hard. Just a bolt or two with some WD40 for cleaning and a lil dab of moly grease should get the job done.

This should get your 99% of the way there.



And to just make sure... just kidding on the duct tape part on brakes.

While it's always wise to service your brakes as needed or when suspect, your lever problem shouldn't be caused by a sticky caliper. But yea... it's your brakes, don't leave anything to chance.

Let me help you out with your reluctance with your brakes. Brakes are super simple, some sealed lines, banjo bolts (with holes), a master cylinder that normally works just fine and a caliper that is like a 3yr old puzzle. The whole system is no longer than your arm and if it looks wrong, it most likely is. Don't be afraid to tackle them and learn how they work. There is NOTHING!!!! more confidence inspiring you can 100% depend on your brakes when you need them. KNOWING you did them yourself will pay you back 10 fold in the end. I don't go super hot into a corner trailing brakes on the blind faith of someone else... and you can take that to the bank.

For example; you trust someone else did them right but they didn't and you have an event... takes you 3 months to heal up. Or... you can spend 3 days learning the ins and outs of brakes and never have that problem. Your call, feel me?

If you can't figger it out, lemme know and I will make you a video.

[asdfman]

Originally Posted by Foxrider64

Remove the lever from the speech and clean the pivot point with wd40 and then put some grease on it.

Sometimes the build up causes it to stick.

Thanks. That's most likely the case. Is there anything I should be wary about when removing the lever?

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by asdfman

Thanks. That's most likely the case. Is there anything I should be wary about when removing the lever?

Yes, over torquing the bolt. They are super easy to strip the threads.

[asdfman]

Originally Posted by csmith12

I love autocorrect

Sorry @asdfman, I don't have a DIY or link to a howto but it shouldn't be hard. Just a bolt or two with some WD40 for cleaning and a lil dab of moly grease should get the job done.

This should get your 99% of the way there.



And to just make sure... just kidding on the duct tape part on brakes.

While it's always wise to service your brakes as needed or when suspect, your lever problem shouldn't be caused by a sticky caliper. But yea... it's your brakes, don't leave anything to chance.

Let me help you out with your reluctance with your brakes. Brakes are super simple, some sealed lines, banjo bolts (with holes), a master cylinder that normally works just fine and a caliper that is like a 3yr old puzzle. The whole system is no longer than your arm and if it looks wrong, it most likely is. Don't be afraid to tackle them and learn how they work. There is NOTHING!!!! more confidence inspiring you can 100% depend on your brakes when you need them. KNOWING you did them yourself will pay you back 10 fold in the end. I don't go super hot into a corner trailing brakes on the blind faith of someone else... and you can take that to the bank.

For example; you trust someone else did them right but they didn't and you have an event... takes you 3 months to heal up. Or... you can spend 3 days learning the ins and outs of brakes and never have that problem. Your call, feel me?

If you can't figger it out, lemme know and I will make you a video.

Originally Posted by csmith12

Yes, over torquing the bolt. They are super easy to strip the threads.

Sweet, I love that flow chart. Thanks a lot for the tips. If the braking system is as simple as you describe (and won't crumble to bits as I think it will), I'll start taking it apart and get intimate with my bike tonight!

[InvisiBill]

The lever is a separate piece from the actual hydraulic braking system. It just bolts into the perch, and presses against the piston that actually moves the brakes.

http://www.kawasaki.com/Parts/PartsD.../2012/EX250JCF

[asdfman]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

The lever is a separate piece from the actual hydraulic braking system. It just bolts into the perch, and presses against the piston that actually moves the brakes.

http://www.kawasaki.com/Parts/PartsD.../2012/EX250JCF

Great, that puts my mind at ease. That parts diagram helps a lot too. Thanks Bill.

[asdfman]

Awesome, I think I was able to clean up some of the gunk from the lever after removing the bolt. Works a lot better now! Thanks @InvisiBill and @csmith12

[Ghostt]

Along with cleaning and lubricating the perch assembly,

Here my write-up on caliper maintenance, good luck,

For those of you whom are scratching their heads, here you go,*


Front Caliper Service (also rear as well)

Many folks have posted here with a Varity of front brake problems.

*Many of which are attributable to the lack of proper maintenance.

*Here’s how you can always have a brake like when your bike was new.

A short list of the problems and the causes.

Soft lever or lever goes to the bar.

The usual cause is the pistons are pushed too far back into the caliper by a flexing a warped, coned, disc.

*Using up too much piston travel before the disc is pinched.

Juddering in sync with wheel rotation.

The disc is worn, and its thickness varies. *This causes the caliper to “sink” into the thin part and when the thick part comes around, it gets wedged into a smaller space causing a tightening of the brake. Then the tight spot passes through and it like the brake is released. Then repeat, repeat.

Cupped, coned, or warped disc.

Unfortunately this is a common problem with EX’s the cause is the disc is stretched in the center due to being rigidly bolted to the wheel. *The huge force of braking is transmitted to the wheel through the webbed center of the disc which gets stretched and becomes larger than the space it occupies in the center of the disc. This causes the center to push to the side trying to find room for itself.

*Resulting is a cone shaped disc.

Soft lever 2

The caliper has pistons only on one side, so as the pads wear the caliper must shift sideways apply even pressure on both sides of the disc.

*To allow this the caliper floats on two pins. *If these pins get dry (no grease) dirty or bent. The caliper won’t center itself and bends the disc to wherever it is.

This take up lever travel and when released pushes the pistons further back than necessary.

*If not fixed will eventually destroy the disc (warp it).


Ok how to prevent all of the above.

When new pad time comes around, resist the temptation to just pop in new one and go.

*Every time you must do these things.

Remove caliper disassemble and clean it.

Clean and re grease the sliding pins.

Polish the caliper pistons to remove dirt. If you just push the pistons back into the caliper leaks will result. Or binding.

Tools required:
12 mm socket
8mm open end wrench
3” or bigger C clamp
a supply of new bake fluid.
wire brush and or steel wool.

Remove the caliper from the fork leg but leave the brake line on.

Remove the old pads and the mounting frame (the sliding pins)

Remove the cover from the Master Cylinder on the Handel bar.

Attach the C clamp to one of the pistons but don’t squeeze it. *Pump the lever on the bar slowly to push out the other piston almost all the way. *Put the C clamp on that piston and push out the other one.

Remove both pistons by hand.

Remove all the rubber part from the caliper, the seals are in the grooves in the caliper and dull pointed thingy will get them out easy.

Disconnect the caliper from the brake line.

Soak all the rubber parts in new clean brake fluid * ONLY!!!!! * Rub them with you fingers till as clean as new.

The caliper can be cleaned with a wire brush or even a Moto tool for the internal grooves, NOW’s the time to paint it if you wish.

Polish the pistons till they are smooth and shinny. They are chrome plated. If any of the plating is chipped or damaged below the dust cap groove. *Replace it.

The master cylinder is the subject of another write up and we’ll assume it in good working order here.

If you suspect your disc is bad, your bets bet is to replace it with an after market one fro EBC or Galpher.

*Don’t remove the disc unless you intend to replace it. *It will assume a new shape if it is * stressed and will not be flat again. You can try to check its condition by placing a straight edge across the face of the pad swept area looking for any distortion.

Re assembly

Take the nice clean rubber seals and install them into the caliper then the Dust covers.
Wet all the rubber with new clean brake fluid and partially fill the caliper with new fluid.

Push the pistons though the dust seals and into the caliper body until the dust covers snap into the grooves.

Fill the MC with new fluid and pump the lever while holding the Line above the MC till clean fluid flows.

Connect the line to the caliper while holding it above the MC.

Pump the lever with the bleeder valve open till fluid flow from the bleeder.

*Hold the caliper so that the bleeder is the highest point.

Close the bleeder and pump more fluid into the caliper but don’t push the pistons all the way out.

Then squeeze the pistons all the way back in and install the new pads.

Re grease the slider pins and assemble the dust seals and re mount the caliper on the forks but leave the bolts loose.

Now clamp the caliper to the disc with the brake lever.

Look at the space between the fork lugs and the caliper, clamp and release a few times as you tighten the bolts by hand. It one lug touches much before the other the odds are you mounting bracket is bent. You can straighten it.

*After you get it the best you can. Some shim washers made from alum can stock can be fitted to the loose side.*

** *What we are doing here is trying to minimize the bedd in time and gets the best pad life.


Ok with everything tight you should be through, Notice we don’t need to bleed the brakes, but if you screwed up in any of the above steps, you might do that here.

Be careful to Bedd in the new pads gently.

*Too much pressure too soon will burn the pad material as only a small area will be gripping at first. You also won’t have full braking power till the pads are fully familiar with the disc

[Foxrider64]

Originally Posted by csmith12

I love autocorrect

I hate my phone...