March 4th, 2015, 09:19 PM | #1 |
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Clunking while accelerating
The bike makes a clunking sound while accelerating. It happens only when in gear, but it doesnt happen while coasting with the clutch in. Im pretty sure its not my chain. the Google told me it could be my valves. Previous owner said it just had an adjustment, but didnt have documentation for it, so im assuming its bullshit.
Any other ideas before i go spelunking? Ill probably do my valves anyway, but if theres anything else i could look for while im in there, id love a suggestion. Also, how important is it that i buy quality shims? Any suggestions on bang-for-your-buck shims i could buy? I figured its not that important and that id just measure em with a caliper before using them to make sure theyre accurate. |
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March 4th, 2015, 09:39 PM | #2 |
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Valves, I'd think, would be noisy at all times engine is on, not just in gear.
My first thought be clutch, which is lubed by normal engine oil.... have you checked oil levels.
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March 4th, 2015, 10:24 PM | #3 |
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I check my oil regularly. Its at normal levels. Getting up to 3000 miles and i been riding it hard, so probably due for a change soon. I dont think dirty oil would cause this, though.
But, yeah, id think that too, but everything performs differently under a load. But with that in mind, that doesnt rule out the chain... hmm... |
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March 4th, 2015, 10:30 PM | #4 |
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I'd definitely check out the chain first... Next the wheels and brakes... Does it get faster as you speed up?
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March 4th, 2015, 10:47 PM | #5 |
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March 4th, 2015, 11:20 PM | #6 |
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chain for sure... examine each link you'll most likely find two or three are frozen
or maybe rotors
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March 4th, 2015, 11:27 PM | #7 |
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It's the chain, either out of adjustment, worn, old, poor maintenance, possibly gears too, missing teeth, worn etc..... You get the point.
How many miles on the gears and chain? Was it properly maintained? Post pictures of chain, gears, and let's all see.
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March 5th, 2015, 01:02 AM | #8 |
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Pics arent an option; technichal difficulties. But the chain was poorly maintained by the po. Ill look closer for frozen links, but i cleaned it good with kerosene and lubed it good with leftover clean engine oil, and i didnt notice any frozen links before. Also, rear sprockets still got life left in it. Ive never checked the front sprocket, though.
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March 5th, 2015, 03:22 AM | #9 |
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Shims? Lol, you haven't even looked under your valve cover, have you?
The pregen uses adjustment screws with a locknut, not a shim in bucket. |
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March 5th, 2015, 05:40 AM | #10 |
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Valves won't be a load dependent noise.
Chain first (and the sprockets of course) If a new chain doesn't stop it: Big ends are unlikely at that mileage unless the PO let the oil run out at some point. Another possibility is a damaged gear tooth. Again unlikely and it would only do it when that gear was loaded. Worth checking the engine and exhaust mounts. If anything is loose it can open an exhaust gap under torque which sounds strangely "mechanical". I had that with a shot front engine mount on a golf. |
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March 5th, 2015, 05:44 AM | #11 |
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If it's only a single clunk, could be the Cush drive.
If it's repetitive, chain or sprockets
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March 5th, 2015, 07:53 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
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March 5th, 2015, 08:05 AM | #13 |
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A simple way to check for chain wear is to try and pull the chain away from the rear sprocket at the three o'clock position. If it moves much at all, it's time to replace the chain and both sprockets.
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March 5th, 2015, 08:19 AM | #14 |
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March 5th, 2015, 08:35 AM | #15 |
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Personally if there is any doubts about the final drive, then replacement is in order.
Not only the bike will not move, but more importantly is a safety hazard. Chains, and sprockets don't last forever, they are a consumable items, just like brakes, tires, etc....
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March 5th, 2015, 05:04 PM | #16 | |
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Quote:
Keeping tension on the upper run of the chain, you could identify any frozen link. Take a look at this, please: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?p=683056 Shims have to be hard enough and of a precise diameter. The valves of your 2003 Ninja do not need shims; ............. those are for less advanced new-gen engines.
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March 5th, 2015, 11:33 PM | #17 |
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Its the chain. Just for grits and shiggles, i sprayed a little silicone lube on it to see if it would stop, and it got way quieter, and i noticed a tiny bit of rust. New chain and sprocket time! I been meaning to go up one in the front, anyway. Thanks guys! A big help, as always!
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March 6th, 2015, 03:27 AM | #18 |
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How often do you lube, and clean your chain? Which lube?
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March 6th, 2015, 03:31 AM | #19 |
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Tiny bit of rust and you're looking to replace it. Lol.
Have you checked the condition of the Cush drive? |
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March 6th, 2015, 11:10 AM | #20 | |
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If ive got on some niitrile gloves for some reason or another, ill probably lube the chain while im at it. I definitely lube and clean it every time after riding in the rain. I lubed it once with silicone spray, (excluding the time i just mentioned) and it was fine for about a day until it got way too dry way too quick. Stuffs just too lightweight. Since then, ive used10w40 engine oil.
Quote:
And i have no idea what the cush drive is, so no. |
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March 6th, 2015, 11:27 AM | #21 |
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Here is some real talk...
I replace my chain when: Any detected damage It will not stay within spec slack range When the patterned metal to metal sound is heard and I can't get rid of it (0 or X ring chain seal failure) But... the very first time I hear the sound, I remove the chain, clean and soak it overnight in gear oil with a bit of kerosene in it. Reinstall, wax and give it a go. Of course the sound will be gone after the lube, but if it returns shortly... time to order a new one. Sprockets too if I feel I need them. I will be straight up honest with you. I SUCK hard at chain maintenance, but this lets me do chain maintenance about 3 times a year. Sure... most of my miles are track miles, but I do ride rain or shine. Since you will have your rear wheel off, check the cush drive. It should have nearly NO slop. The cush drive are the rubber pieces inside the rear wheel hub. It's purpose is to lessen the jerkiness from the chain slack while in motion and starting/stopping. When these rubber pieces are flattened too much, it becomes jerky or starts to thump as the hub moves around in the increased slack. Some riders shim these with thin pieces of plastic to get the feel they are after, which is mostly increased sensitivity to throttle response.
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March 6th, 2015, 11:29 AM | #22 |
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Okay we need to talk about chain maintenance skills, first of all SILICONE IS NOT FOR YOUR CHAIN!!! WD-40 IS OUT AS WELL!!!
Okay now get the DuPont Chain saver. DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver Dry Self-Cleaning Lubricant, 11-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B0VDC2..._IaF-ub1TJ6QE6 http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/dupon...ain-lube-2012/ http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motor...n-chain-saver/ http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/dupon...cle-degreaser/ http://www.webbikeworld.com/site-sea...20chain%20lube
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March 6th, 2015, 11:53 AM | #23 |
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Thanks, csmith. Helplful as always.
Ghost, you say a lot of things, but dont always explain why. I appreciate the help, but i need to understand why im doing or not doing something, at least basically, if im to take it too seriously. I now know silicone is too light to use on a chain, but whats good about the stuff you linked to? |
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March 6th, 2015, 11:54 AM | #24 |
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A new chain and probably both sprockets are in order from the sound of it.
While you are at it, get some high quality chain lube. Silicone and engine oil are not heavy enough to prevent being tossed-off almost immediately - leaving next to nothing for lube and protection from corrosion. You need something that goes on wet, then dries, and stays put. I've used the DuPont chain lube (original version) and it's OK. The latest versions are not as good. After spending the money on a new chain and sprockets it's worth doing some research to get a top notch lube. Ghostt posted some links to some excellent info. |
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March 6th, 2015, 12:23 PM | #25 |
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@MrAtom
Sorry I posted those in hurry, but silicone is way too light, and doesn't stay on the chain at all. WD-40 is not a lubricant, sorry kids, it wasn't designed for that, WD-40 stands for "WATER DISPLACEMENT Formula #40". I know we all use it as a lubricant, but truly it's not. The chain specific lubricants are made for just that, I'm not going to say which is the best, that's like opening the oil debates. I personally have used both the old and new formulas of the DuPont. They are effective and inexpensive compared to some of the other brands, and the DuPont has gotten good reviews. I'm not the best, I'd say average about my chain maintenance skills, I do clean and lube mine about every 500 miles or so, and lube it more often when in riding in inclement weather. I carry the small aerosol(3.5oz) in my tankbag just in case. I'm sorry to all members if I sometimes gloss over some subjects, it's comes from too many years on forums. I will be more than happy to expand on any posts I make, just ask me. @jkv45, Thanks, I like to post links that are educational, it helps a person understand better, and while I'm capable of doing the same, I can't see restating what another has already said, and from an impartial sources.
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March 6th, 2015, 12:29 PM | #26 |
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Thank you. Im not usually one to complain about free advice (especially when i asked for it), i just told you that because i know you enjoy being helpful and figured youd appreciste the feedback. Ill get a can of proper lube
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March 6th, 2015, 12:32 PM | #27 | |
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Quote:
Another item I would personally recommend is a chain specific cleaning brush, it makes it a lot easier for sure, This is just an example, Simple Solutions GCP900 Grunge Brush and Degreaser https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AI9L0G..._weG-ub00WA9E2 Cleaning the chain is just, if not more important than lube.
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March 6th, 2015, 03:09 PM | #28 |
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Cush drive is that funky shaped rubber insert that takes up the slop between your sprocket carrier and your wheel. It allows for some rotational difference between the wheel and sprocket to cushion the drive lash when you transition to the gas and take up the chain slack but have not yet applied power to the wheel. If that's damaged or shriveled, it can lend itself to a clunk every time you transition from decel to accel.
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March 6th, 2015, 03:37 PM | #29 |
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Cush drive looks fine to me
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March 7th, 2015, 07:42 AM | #30 |
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I've also heard the second generation DuPont chain lube isn't as good as the original. I got 25,000 miles from a DID X-ring chain using this stuff. Was highly recommended on a motorcycle site. http://www.liquidperformance.com/mot...um-chain-lube/
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March 7th, 2015, 09:29 AM | #31 |
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I was just about to say that.... valve adjustment on the pregens is a d@mn walk in the park compared to newgens. There are a few videos out there on youtube to help you as well.
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March 9th, 2015, 03:33 PM | #32 |
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I've been using the hondaline chain lube for awhile since a buddy gave me a can of it for free.
If i'm spending my own money I go for the JP1 chain lube. To be honest I cant tell the difference but next time I'm up to buy a can maybe i'll check out the DuPont as i have seen it associated with bicycle folks. I've been told not to do the kerosene soak thing with o-ring chains, but its just heresay (albeit from a reputable moto dude). Even with cheap non-o-ring chains I don't bother anymore. I just hose them down once a week with lube and replace them often. I get about 5000 miles or 1/2 year out of a chain. It seems to be more dependent on time/abuse than actual mileage. For my time and money, i'd rather buy 2 x $30 chains a year and just junk it rather than buying 1 $80 chain a year and having to deal with the mess of cleaning it, or hesitating to replace it for a half second. |
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March 9th, 2015, 03:56 PM | #33 | |
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Quote:
riding in the rain/salt(winter) accelerates chain wear as well, as does running the chain too tight or loose.
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March 9th, 2015, 03:59 PM | #34 |
in your machine
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Chain longevity has so many variables, it not even funny
I know from my own experience I get about 20k out of mine, and I have to replace them due to stretching issues.
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March 9th, 2015, 04:02 PM | #35 |
Private Joker
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I got 10k out of my stock chain and finesse called me out on my **** chain maintenance
started out pretty good about it but got lazy at the worst time (winter) so the lifetime got destroyed
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March 9th, 2015, 05:30 PM | #36 |
in your machine
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I'd like to think of myself as average when it comes to maintaining the chain, personally I could do better.
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March 9th, 2015, 07:09 PM | #37 |
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This reminds me, I wanted to look into a ScottOiler... Hmmmm
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March 9th, 2015, 09:10 PM | #38 |
Private Joker
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Jesus I've wanted one of those for so long it isn't even funny. I should just get one already
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March 9th, 2015, 09:44 PM | #39 |
in your machine
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Have you checked the blinker fluid?
Check compression?
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March 10th, 2015, 03:06 AM | #40 |
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Now there's such a thing as diesel exhaust fluid. I know you don't have a diesel, but it's a thing now
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