How to make the 250R better

[HorizonXP]

Hey guys,

So after some discussion with the GF, it seems that other things in my life are a higher priority (i.e. saving for a house and getting married). This means that a new bike is not really in my future, at least for a few years.

I've had my 2009 250 since April of last year. I love this bike. I've been everywhere and done everything with it. I've crashed it a few times, but it takes a lickin and keeps on tickin! I'm close to 26,000 km on it, 22,000 of which are mine.

This winter, I'm planning on tearing the bike apart, right down to the frame. I'm going to clean, lube, repair/replace every last piece on that bike. My fairings and gas tank need to be fixed and repainted. I'm thinking about doing it myself to save some money and to educate myself.

It got me thinking about what else I might want to do with the bike. If I'm keeping it for another 2 years at least, I can start to do things to it to make it my own.

So what would you do?

Here's my list so far:

1. Fix the fairings (Paint: $150-200; Kit: $50)
2. Misc. parts to replace on the bike (~$150-$400, no idea really)
3. Clipons ($150-$200)
4. Rearsets ($200)
5. Cartridge emulators ($200)
6. Full Area P exhaust ($500)
7. Integrated tail light ($150)
8. Jet kit ($50)
9. Rear shock (Used: $200; New: $1000)
10. New sprockets and chain ($150)

I mostly do highway commuting on it right now (90 km round trip), but with my Master's finishing soon, that'll likely change to mostly local rides and twisties.

For items 3 to 10, which of those would you do first? Any suggestions on what else I could or should do?

[almost40]

Sprockets will make it feel a little more relaxed on the higway. If you change the number of teeth of course.
What are you looking to achieve?

[TheJimmyEnglish]

Sounds good

[HorizonXP]

Originally Posted by almost40

Sprockets will make it feel a little more relaxed on the higway. If you change the number of teeth of course.
What are you looking to achieve?

Right now, my biggest complaint about the 250 is that it revs so freakin high when I'm cruising on the highway. I'm normally at 9-10k in 6th gear. Like I said, that'll change soon when I won't be commuting as often, so changing the teeth isn't really top of my list. That said, changing the teeth in the other direction is a thought.

[Live2ride]

$2300!?! I bought my bike for $2600 so that seems like a lot to add at once to me. gl though; it'll look great and perform great if you do get it all.

[rusninja]

Hey you gotta spoil your baby x]

[TheJimmyEnglish]

Originally Posted by rusninja

Hey you gotta spoil your baby x]

word

[HorizonXP]

Originally Posted by Live2ride

$2300!?! I bought my bike for $2600 so that seems like a lot to add at once to me. gl though; it'll look great and perform great if you do get it all.

I likely wouldn't buy it all at once, and I might not even do all of it. I'm not sure what's the best bang for the buck even. The first 2 on the list will definitely be done this winter. The other 8 are options that I'm thinking about.

Those cartridge emulators sound like an awesome idea, but then I'd have to get clipons. Once I get clipons, I'd likely need rearsets in order to get the ride position the way I want it to be. That's already $600. Would it be better to spend that money on the exhaust instead? I don't know, that's what I'm hoping everyone here can help me answer.

[Live2ride]

If I had the spare cash I would most likely get the area p, more power is a big plus; plus it would improve the exhaust sound. Unfortunately you have to pay an extra $50-$100 for small pieces of metal to fine tune it.

[ducducgooseit]

Is it the sound or the vibration that puts you off the high revs? If you go for twistys, you will still spend a lot of time at high rpm so the sound and vibration will still be present. The Area-P exhaust and re-jet would compliment a gearing change since most have reported some modest hp gain and improved throttle response. Hp and response would help smooth out gearing change weaknesses. A different seat, or padding changes might isolate you from bike buzz. Weighted handlebars might take away some vibration. If you go to solid rear set pegs you will pick more vibration in your feet through the pegs than the stock pegs.

, just some of my thoughts.

[HorizonXP]

Originally Posted by ducducgooseit

Is it the sound or the vibration that puts you off the high revs? If you go for twistys, you will still spend a lot of time at high rpm so the sound and vibration will still be present. The Area-P exhaust and re-jet would compliment a gearing change since most have reported some modest hp gain and improved throttle response. Hp and response would help smooth out gearing change weaknesses. A different seat, or padding changes might isolate you from bike buzz. Weighted handlebars might take away some vibration. If you go to solid rear set pegs you will pick more vibration in your feet through the pegs than the stock pegs.

, just some of my thoughts.

Sound is usually drowned out by wind, earplugs or headphones. That's not an issue.

I feel the vibration in my hands and feet, making cruises uncomfortable. Unfortunately, the nature of Ontario means that I need to do highway riding to make it out to any decent twisties. I also feel the vibration in my seat, making my butt a bit numb after my daily commute. Everything hurt REAL bad after my 1300+ km trek from Tennessee back home on the interstates in 15 hours.

Seems that everyone's suggesting to upgrade the exhaust first. Really? No one thinks that a fork or shock upgrade is a better choice? The exhaust upgrade is that much better?

[almost40]

I say sprockets first. lower rpm means less vibration. plus they are not that expensive..
Then I would go exhaust and a kit. Throw a new more padded seat in there somwhere along with some new grips. IMO
how much do you weigh?? if over 185 the I would consider suspension parts. Otherwise if it aint broke.............dont fix it.
I destroy lesser riders on the track riding 600's with trick suspension parts on the stock stuff my 250 came with. Im 145 ish geared up.
Its all about being smooth.

[HorizonXP]

Originally Posted by almost40

I say sprockets first. lower rpm means less vibration. plus they are not that expensive..
Then I would go exhaust and a kit. Throw a new more padded seat in there somwhere along with some new grips. IMO
how much do you weigh?? if over 185 the I would consider suspension parts. Otherwise if it aint broke.............dont fix it.
I destroy lesser riders on the track riding 600's with trick suspension parts on the stock stuff my 250 came with. Im 145 ish geared up.
Its all about being smooth.

I'm 210 without gear. I need to lose weight.

I find that the front end dives quite a bit under heavy braking. I agree, I've been able to ride perfectly fine on this bike with stock parts, and I rip 600s apart in the twisties or the track. But if I'm keeping this bike for another 2 years, I want to do what I can to make it awesome.

So sprockets, and then exhaust? Leave the forks untouched? I'm surprised, I honestly thought people would be all about the suspension upgrades.

[SSR]

Originally Posted by HorizonXP

1. Fix the fairings (Paint: $150-200; Kit: $50)
2. Misc. parts to replace on the bike (~$150-$400, no idea really)
3. Clipons ($150-$200)
4. Rearsets ($200)
5. Cartridge emulators ($200)
6. Full Area P exhaust ($500)
7. Integrated tail light ($150)
8. Jet kit ($50)
9. Rear shock (Used: $200; New: $1000)
10. New sprockets and chain ($150)

Forget all that. Find yourself the engine from a Ninja 500 and do an engine swap

[almost40]

well I cant speak about suspensin upgrades because I didnt do any on my 250.....But at 210 or so I can see it as something you should consider. Stiffer springs up front will help with the dive along with thicker oil. (might wana try the oil first 15W if i recall) The rear should be ok as its adjustable (a little anyway) If your not tracking the bike and you think its ok in the twistys for now I would put it near the bottom of the list. if and when you swap springs thats when the emulators come into play.

[ducducgooseit]

The things is, to tune the suspension, it would be best (cheapest) if you are at your competition weight when you start. Re-valving the front, different fluid, different springs, changing the rear shock, will be affected all by the rider weight. If you drop from 210 to 185 (guessing) that is plenty enough to have to get different spring for a coilover rear, changing the front springs (again), messing with the valves in the emulators, blah blah blah if you do all that suspension work before you lose weight ...

Losing weight will just make the sprocket/chain and/or exhaust/jet more effective.

But hey, are you a racer, or a track day guy, or a canyon type or a broad sweep of all three.

[ratlab]

the standard setup for racetech springs and emulators will be fine for you at 185-210-if you go down to 170 and lower it will be stiff,but even then you can play with spacer length to get it right-i would do rear shock-i did ohlins -the change was pretty dramatic-also steel-braided lines and hh brake pads-now your bike would handle and stop great-get a jet kit and quick throttle tube-shelve the pipe for later-clip-ons for this bike are not that low,but are nice-take a look at yoshimura footpeg risers as an alternative to rearsets-i did all the stuff you mentioned and more on mine,but to me suspension and brakes is most important

[csmith12]

that is quite the list. I am down for mods... but 3k buys alot of bike in my area

[alex.s]

if you're going to do the rear shock i would (did) get a used r6 or gsxr shock ($30-50 ebay) instead. the gsxr shock requires modifications but if you swap the knuckle with the r1/r6 there are no mods required to the frame or shock for the yamaha. the gsxr requires skizzing a bit off the shock mount to make it fit over the stock 250 knuckle

[HorizonXP]

Originally Posted by alex.s

if you're going to do the rear shock i would (did) get a used r6 or gsxr shock ($30-50 ebay) instead. the gsxr shock requires modifications but if you swap the knuckle with the r1/r6 there are no mods required to the frame or shock for the yamaha. the gsxr requires skizzing a bit off the shock mount to make it fit over the stock 250 knuckle

So if I find a used R1 shock, it will almost bolt right in? No mods needed to the frame or mudguard? This is precisely what I'm looking for.

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by HorizonXP

So if I find a used R1 shock, it will almost bolt right in? No mods needed to the frame or mudguard? This is precisely what I'm looking for.

sorry i forgot one part, you need to make your own dogbones. you also need different bolts and stuff. i posted a really long thread about it somewhere but i'm pretty happy with my result. i think total including the hardware and stuff to make the dogbones and the shock i spent about $80. depending on how much you weigh you probably want it resprung a little looser....

also i'm not sure if it fits with a stock undertail... i'm pretty sure it would if you have the sideways mount res but i dont know if the vertical mount res would... you would probably need to cut the undertail a little bit like you have to with the gsxr shock.

p.s. i've installed both and the r1, although requiring more planning and pre-work like making the dog bones, was by far easier to install


http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...ighlight=shock

[LoneRonin]

Originally Posted by HorizonXP

I'm 210 without gear. I need to lose weight.

I find that the front end dives quite a bit under heavy braking. I agree, I've been able to ride perfectly fine on this bike with stock parts, and I rip 600s apart in the twisties or the track. But if I'm keeping this bike for another 2 years, I want to do what I can to make it awesome.

So sprockets, and then exhaust? Leave the forks untouched? I'm surprised, I honestly thought people would be all about the suspension upgrades.

Go with 15w fork oil..it'll stiffen it up a bit in the front. You do a lot of long distance riding so maybe a double bubble windscreen would help. Instead of full out rearsets unless you really want them for the track, you can get by pretty good with the adjusters, they work well and you still have the rear brake light operating off of the rear pedal.

You covered just about everything, but if you really want to get carried away since you already run the 150 tire get the 4.5" rim...then it would be a badass 250. I think I'm just going to stop after an exhaust. Hopefully.

[mishka]

I hear painting the bike blue makes it go faster.

[Clearlynotstefan]

Spend $60 and put the SV650 shock on the back, it's easy enough to do (although you'll have to have it machined to fit)

[kamikaze]

Keep an eye out for some of this stuff used as well. I picked up an integrated taillight for $40 shipped from this forum. There are deals to be had if you keep an eye on the for sale forum

[Gurk]

Originally Posted by mishka

I hear painting the bike blue makes it go faster.

Everyone knows. Red goes faster.

[backinthesaddleagain]

Shop here just tracked prepped 3 new R6. Might be shocks available as they all installed Ohlins.

[MattRichling]

Originally Posted by backinthesaddleagain

Shop here just tracked prepped 3 new R6. Might be shocks available as they all installed Ohlins.

I would be interested in one for sure