Tapered roller bearing conversion - Page 2

old3 · May 15th, 2013, 08:29 AM

I consider any non removable slop as time for replacement, and mine had that at a mere 1000 miles. For me it was a massive difference on the 300, felt like an old gate hinge in the frame all the time.

I might try a brace, so far the only oddity was that one highway ramp with concrete slab surface giving that rhythmic wiggle at steep lean.

Glad you got it sorted!

Motofool · May 15th, 2013, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

.........I think it's pretty perfect as a street setup right now. I'm comfortable saying that I'm officially DONE working on the front end.

Will we enjoy another of your great write ups on front end?

choneofakind · May 15th, 2013, 11:17 AM

You flatter me Hernan.

I'm just an amateur with suspension adjustments on motorcycles. Mountain bikes are much easier to feel changes IMHO.

For now, I'm happy with my front end. I just got back from a fun ride on a twisty road. I intentionally took all the bumps and rough spots, and the bike felt composed, just like it should. I think the head bearings are one of those things that degrade so slowly that you don't realize how bad they are until you fix them. Then suddenly, the bike feels great in comparison.

Now if only I could work out the cobwebs and relax my body to make it even better

Gotta hate being away from riding for almost 9 months out of the year.

Slick_Stevo · June 3rd, 2013, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

I got it all figured out. Getting the new bearings in was a no brainer.

has anyone done a DIY for this?....I'm contemplating tapered bearings on my '09 250

old3 · June 3rd, 2013, 09:48 AM

You have a hammer?

Slick_Stevo · June 3rd, 2013, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old3

You have a hammer?

lol yeah...12 pound sledge good enough for this job?

old3 · June 3rd, 2013, 12:02 PM

Plenty!

Just watch where you tap on the new ones, stay off the roller cage, get the edge of the race. I use a big socket and go around every tap at 90 degrees to keep it going in square. The worst part was the lower race going in the head. It liked to get crooked and you need a long drift to get between the body panels. Just akward, not really that tuff. Be sure you drive them home, you can hear the difference when they bottom out.

Slick_Stevo · June 3rd, 2013, 12:25 PM

there's talk about a pipe that slides over the steering stem....is it necessary to do that? If so what would be its diameter?

old3 · June 3rd, 2013, 01:02 PM

Nope, that is one way but I just did the 1/4 turn & tap routine using the inner collar as the point of impact. Light taps and it went right on. No drama at all. You could use a piece of pipe/PVC too, but you really just want to put the pressure on that inner sleeve. I think I had a 17mm socket on the end of a long 3/8" extension. You won't have to hit it hard enough to damage the tools, just walk it down slow and evenly. Put a bit of anti seize on the stem where it seats too.

Removing the factory race on the stem was a joke, I used a regular screwdriver, hammer & it just about jumped off.

choneofakind · June 3rd, 2013, 04:29 PM

^^ right on the money. I used a ratchet extension to make sure my taps went to the inner collar. Tap, rotate, tap, rotate, tap, rotate, etc until it's seated properly.

Method (and parts) are the same for the pregen, newgen, and 300.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Steerin...oller_bearings
^^note on this write-up. The author got the numbers swapped consistently. When you physically have the bearings in your hand, it's obvious which one goes on top and which one goes on the triple just because of the size difference, but remember not to get hung up on the numbers in the ninje250 wiki write-up.

I personally liked the write-up on ninja 300 . com (sensor that one @Alex

) better than the write-up on the ninja250 wiki

broken neck · February 22nd, 2014, 07:48 PM

Changed those bearings today for the roller one...

I saw the exterior races were different so no problem there, used the threaded bar with washer to press them in, went in smoothly (once they're aligned correctly.

But I noticed the inner race were not the same thickness, so one of them has an higher "lip". I pressed it at the bottom of the triple. So was I right by doing so? I thought so, it gave the space to put back the rubber seal.

So how did you put your bearings back? Thicker one down or not?

Thanks for the comments and tips... Can't wait for the snow to be gone and March the 15th be a ting of the past...

old3 · February 23rd, 2014, 05:15 PM

I can't say for sure, been too long since I installed mine but that sounds right. I remember looking at them both and it just made sense one way. Sorry but I think you got it anyway.

Norway · November 30th, 2014, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old3

My son just cleared 1500 miles on his 2012 Ninja 250 and found his steering head bearings are shot too. Same hands off wobble at 50 MPH too. All Balls kit going in next week.

I bought a new 250R during spring 2012, and have since then covered
close to 27 000 km (~17 k miles) on it. After about 12 k miles (June '14), the Kawasaki dealership (where I bought the bike) mentioned that the steering head bearing(s) is/are in need of change or maintenance.
It's usually a 5 year warranty here. Could it be that it should be fixed under warranty, in cases like the one described above, as well as mine?

JohnnyBravo · December 1st, 2014, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norway

I bought a new 250R during spring 2012, and have since then covered
close to 27 000 km (~17 k miles) on it. After about 12 k miles (June '14), the Kawasaki dealership (where I bought the bike) mentioned that the steering head bearing(s) is/are in need of change or maintenance.
It's usually a 5 year warranty here. Could it be that it should be fixed under warranty, in cases like the one described above, as well as mine?

I haven't heard of a shop in the US covering it... Hopefully Norway has some sense

Singh2jz · February 10th, 2015, 06:27 PM

Do the races have to be pushed in as far as they can go or is it okay for them to sit flush with steering stem? I think I might have to push the bottom one in more because the lower triple isn't hitting the left and right locks. I don't know about the top one. As of now they're sitting flush. Please let me know as soon as possible. I'm going to be working on the bike tonight after class.

choneofakind · February 10th, 2015, 07:36 PM

Flush is fine, that's got the race pushed as far into the headtube as possible. There's a shoulder in there that does not allow for the races to be pressed any further, if my memory is correct.

The race depth has nothing to do with your steering lock? I think you have an unrelated problem there. Can you post a picture of what you're seeing and how your setup currently is?

Singh2jz · February 10th, 2015, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Flush is fine, that's got the race pushed as far into the headtube as possible. There's a shoulder in there that does not allow for the races to be pressed any further, if my memory is correct.

The race depth has nothing to do with your steering lock? I think you have an unrelated problem there. Can you post a picture of what you're seeing and how your setup currently is?

Yea, there's a shoulder for both. So I guess I have more pounding to do.

I apologize for not being clear. I meant lock as in when you turn the wheel full lock to the left or right. There are tabs on the lower triple that hit the head tube. I'll take some pics as soon as I can.

Thanks for your help!

~edit~
Races all the way in will solve all my problems. I figured it out when I went to take the pictures lol..thanks!

February 10th, 2015, 06:27 PM	#55
Singh2jz ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Inderveer Location: San Jose Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): '07 ex250-F/J Posts: A lot.	Do the races have to be pushed in as far as they can go or is it okay for them to sit flush with steering stem? I think I might have to push the bottom one in more because the lower triple isn't hitting the left and right locks. I don't know about the top one. As of now they're sitting flush. Please let me know as soon as possible. I'm going to be working on the bike tonight after class. __________________________________________________ The Bike \| The Truck

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May 15th, 2013, 08:29 AM	#41
old3 ninjette.org sage Name: Jim Location: NJ Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300, KTM EXC610SMR Posts: 913	I consider any non removable slop as time for replacement, and mine had that at a mere 1000 miles. For me it was a massive difference on the 300, felt like an old gate hinge in the frame all the time. I might try a brace, so far the only oddity was that one highway ramp with concrete slab surface giving that rhythmic wiggle at steep lean. Glad you got it sorted!

May 15th, 2013, 11:17 AM	#43
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	You flatter me Hernan. I'm just an amateur with suspension adjustments on motorcycles. Mountain bikes are much easier to feel changes IMHO. For now, I'm happy with my front end. I just got back from a fun ride on a twisty road. I intentionally took all the bumps and rough spots, and the bike felt composed, just like it should. I think the head bearings are one of those things that degrade so slowly that you don't realize how bad they are until you fix them. Then suddenly, the bike feels great in comparison. Now if only I could work out the cobwebs and relax my body to make it even better Gotta hate being away from riding for almost 9 months out of the year.

June 3rd, 2013, 09:48 AM	#45
old3 ninjette.org sage Name: Jim Location: NJ Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300, KTM EXC610SMR Posts: 913	You have a hammer?

June 3rd, 2013, 12:02 PM	#47
old3 ninjette.org sage Name: Jim Location: NJ Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300, KTM EXC610SMR Posts: 913	Plenty! Just watch where you tap on the new ones, stay off the roller cage, get the edge of the race. I use a big socket and go around every tap at 90 degrees to keep it going in square. The worst part was the lower race going in the head. It liked to get crooked and you need a long drift to get between the body panels. Just akward, not really that tuff. Be sure you drive them home, you can hear the difference when they bottom out.

June 3rd, 2013, 12:25 PM	#48
Slick_Stevo ninjette.org member Name: Steve Location: Toronto, Canada Join Date: Feb 2013 Motorcycle(s): '13 GSX-R600, '09 Ninja 250, 04 SV 650 (track) Posts: 157	there's talk about a pipe that slides over the steering stem....is it necessary to do that? If so what would be its diameter?

June 3rd, 2013, 01:02 PM	#49
old3 ninjette.org sage Name: Jim Location: NJ Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300, KTM EXC610SMR Posts: 913	Nope, that is one way but I just did the 1/4 turn & tap routine using the inner collar as the point of impact. Light taps and it went right on. No drama at all. You could use a piece of pipe/PVC too, but you really just want to put the pressure on that inner sleeve. I think I had a 17mm socket on the end of a long 3/8" extension. You won't have to hit it hard enough to damage the tools, just walk it down slow and evenly. Put a bit of anti seize on the stem where it seats too. Removing the factory race on the stem was a joke, I used a regular screwdriver, hammer & it just about jumped off.

June 3rd, 2013, 04:29 PM	#50
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	^^ right on the money. I used a ratchet extension to make sure my taps went to the inner collar. Tap, rotate, tap, rotate, tap, rotate, etc until it's seated properly. Method (and parts) are the same for the pregen, newgen, and 300. http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Steerin...oller_bearings ^^note on this write-up. The author got the numbers swapped consistently. When you physically have the bearings in your hand, it's obvious which one goes on top and which one goes on the triple just because of the size difference, but remember not to get hung up on the numbers in the ninje250 wiki write-up. I personally liked the write-up on ninja 300 . com (sensor that one @Alex ) better than the write-up on the ninja250 wiki

February 22nd, 2014, 07:48 PM	#51
broken neck ninjette.org guru Name: Thomas Location: Montréal Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R Special Edition (sold), 2017 CRF250 Rally Posts: 384	Changed those bearings today for the roller one... I saw the exterior races were different so no problem there, used the threaded bar with washer to press them in, went in smoothly (once they're aligned correctly. But I noticed the inner race were not the same thickness, so one of them has an higher "lip". I pressed it at the bottom of the triple. So was I right by doing so? I thought so, it gave the space to put back the rubber seal. So how did you put your bearings back? Thicker one down or not? Thanks for the comments and tips... Can't wait for the snow to be gone and March the 15th be a ting of the past...

February 23rd, 2014, 05:15 PM	#52
old3 ninjette.org sage Name: Jim Location: NJ Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300, KTM EXC610SMR Posts: 913	I can't say for sure, been too long since I installed mine but that sounds right. I remember looking at them both and it just made sense one way. Sorry but I think you got it anyway.

February 10th, 2015, 07:36 PM	#56
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	Flush is fine, that's got the race pushed as far into the headtube as possible. There's a shoulder in there that does not allow for the races to be pressed any further, if my memory is correct. The race depth has nothing to do with your steering lock? I think you have an unrelated problem there. Can you post a picture of what you're seeing and how your setup currently is?