Getting a 300

Han Solo 1 · March 13th, 2014, 01:02 PM

So it looks like I'll be getting a 2013 SE this weekend.

I don't plan on doing much highway riding, but how does this do on the highway vs the 250? On the 250 I felt as I'd shake off the thing. Any difference on the 300?

Also, do you guys REALLY notice a difference in clutch use vs the non-slip-clutch 250?

I'm really looking forward to not having carbs to mess with or wait for anymore.

jeffb502 · March 13th, 2014, 01:20 PM

I never felt like I'd shake off my 250 on the highway. The 300 feels a little better, but is not a huge difference. It cruises at 80mph just fine at around 9000rpm I think, with plenty left. For prolonged highway riding a lot of people like to go up 1 tooth on the front sprocket. Even stock I think it's fine on the highway. I rode from Santa Maria to Orange County a while ago and never felt like the 300 was underpowered or too light to be on the freeway.

My 2010 250 had about 16,000 miles on it. The clutch lever on my 250 was very firm compared to my 300, which just turned over 2,000 miles. I prefer the smooth, light clutch on the 300. As a learning rider I think of the slipper clutch as more of a safety feature to help control the bike when I do something stupid, like ABS (which my 300 doesn't have). On the 250 one time I accidentally downshifted into 2nd and dumped the clutch approaching a corner, and I could feel the back end start to drift side to side a bit. My understanding is the slipper clutch on the 300 would help prevent this type of loss of traction due to improper/unintended rider input. I don't know if I would feel it kick in like ABS, and I'm not confident enough (and don't even know what to do) to intentionally do something that would make the slipper clutch work. Quite simply, I haven't noticed a difference with the slipper clutch, but I think it's a nice thing to have just in case, like ABS.

The fuel injection is indeed an improvement. I also prefer the dashboard/gauges on the 300 to those of the 250.

Alex · March 13th, 2014, 01:22 PM

It's moderately smoother on the highway. Partly due to higher gearing (which you can get by changing sprockets on earlier bikes), partly due to a smoother engine, and partly due to slightly relaxed steering geometry.

Clutch is slightly lighter effort, and does take a smidge of getting used in terms of feel. But it's not night and day, and the slipper function rarely comes into play in street usage.

old3 · March 13th, 2014, 01:55 PM

I use the slipper all the time, but I have a dirt/sumoto background where that is a very common cornering style.

Shake you off it??? LOL, I have to say it almost every single time,

STEERING HEAD BEARINGS!!!

They all share a crappy bearing type, and low quality to boot. All Balls tapered rollers are around $40 and a 2 hour job taking your time. Do it.

Gear it too, it pulls the taller gearing pretty effortlessly. I find the +1 CS swap a good match to what is "common" street bike gearing.

I find the 300 a huge upgrade over the 2012 250 my son bought new, many don't feel much difference, I can't explain that.

Han Solo 1 · March 13th, 2014, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old3

I use the slipper all the time, but I have a dirt/sumoto background where that is a very common cornering style.

Shake you off it??? LOL, I have to say it almost every single time,

STEERING HEAD BEARINGS!!!

They all share a crappy bearing type, and low quality to boot. All Balls tapered rollers are around $40 and a 2 hour job taking your time. Do it.

Gear it too, it pulls the taller gearing pretty effortlessly. I find the +1 CS swap a good match to what is "common" street bike gearing.

I find the 300 a huge upgrade over the 2012 250 my son bought new, many don't feel much difference, I can't explain that.

I've read your many posts on the bearings issue, and I think you've scared me enough to get them changed. If I can do it myself, I will. If not, I will have to wait until later on in the summer and have someone else do it.

One's thing for sure, though: I'm not going to do your test where I have it give me a violent head shake/tank slapper so I can tell if it's an issue or not. I'd rather just take your word for it.

old3 · March 13th, 2014, 02:36 PM

It's not that bad, just release the bars at 50 MPH and keep your hands very close and ready to grab them. If they are shot/loose the bars will start to wag.I haven't had it go full stop to stop yet, usually up to about a 2" wobble in that scenario.

Of course, if you are not skilled enough to be confident trying this, do not do it!!!

Also, it should be done in a controlled setting, closed course, no traffic, etc... I'm not advocating everyone do this test, but many have learned from "no hands' bicycle riding and it is pretty much the same.

The bike should simply track straight ahead. Tire cupping can cause this too, but I've actually dialed mine into and out of doing exactly this with bearing preload. With the loose balls, correct preload can't be set if the race is scarred or the balls are moving off their plane. You can set it, but turning the stem in the balls changes it if they can't be held in place, and the point of contact is super tiny.

The thing about the 50 MPH point is as it drops speed, it pretty much wobbles then regains control. If you have a more precision feel for the steering, you can feel the stem walking at speed in turns or not with your hands holding the bars too. The tire kinda hunts for its line, despite you having picked one for it.

Han Solo 1 · March 13th, 2014, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old3

It's not that bad, just release the bars at 50 MPH and keep your hands very close and ready to grab them. If they are shot/loose the bars will start to wag.I haven't had it go full stop to stop yet, usually up to about a 2" wobble in that scenario.

Of course, if you are not skilled enough to be confident trying this, do not do it!!!

Also, it should be done in a controlled setting, closed course, no traffic, etc... I'm not advocating everyone do this test, but many have learned from "no hands' bicycle riding and it is pretty much the same.

The bike should simply track straight ahead. Tire cupping can cause this too, but I've actually dialed mine into and out of doing exactly this with bearing preload. With the loose balls, correct preload can't be set if the race is scarred or the balls are moving off their plane. You can set it, but turning the stem in the balls changes it if they can't be held in place, and the point of contact is super tiny.

The thing about the 50 MPH point is as it drops speed, it pretty much wobbles then regains control. If you have a more precision feel for the steering, you can feel the stem walking at speed in turns or not with your hands holding the bars too. The tire kinda hunts for its line, despite you having picked one for it.

So after it's all said and done, which ball bearings do you recommend?

And is this something I can do myself with no specialized tools other than a simple stand?

old3 · March 13th, 2014, 03:19 PM

All Balls tapered roller bearings are the same pn from the 08-12 250. They work really well.

Have you taken the forks and front wheel apart yet? It is pretty basic stuff, a hammer & a few sockets/extensions are the minimal tools to drive the races in. Bearing press is another method, I think someone here just bought one. Yu need the front wheel off the ground and the bike supported well. I used a floor jack, a plywood "plate" and the side stand as a third leg with the rear tire touching too. Just watch bumping into it like that!

Read up on it, someone just did a pretty good tutorial recently. If I come across it I'll link it here.

Han Solo 1 · March 13th, 2014, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old3

All Balls tapered roller bearings are the same pn from the 08-12 250. They work really well.

Have you taken the forks and front wheel apart yet? It is pretty basic stuff, a hammer & a few sockets/extensions are the minimal tools to drive the races in. Bearing press is another method, I think someone here just bought one. Yu need the front wheel off the ground and the bike supported well. I used a floor jack, a plywood "plate" and the side stand as a third leg with the rear tire touching too. Just watch bumping into it like that!

Read up on it, someone just did a pretty good tutorial recently. If I come across it I'll link it here.

Ok. I think I can do it then.

Ball bearings, SS brake lines, better brake pads, and some new Pirelli's are on my to-do list this season.

old3 · March 13th, 2014, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Han Solo 1

Ok. I think I can do it then.

Ball bearings, SS brake lines, better brake pads, and some new Pirelli's are on my to-do list this season.

If you hit a snag, you know where to ask. Plenty of the riders here have swapped them in, some even did it twice!

eddiekay · March 13th, 2014, 07:02 PM

Jim...so after talking to you last year I got the bearings from Hard racing.....still in the box. Now...granted I only have a little over 3k on the bike but no wiggle, vibes, nothing bad. I wouldn't argue with a guy from jersey but.....are you sure you don't have the DT's or something ?
We'll meet up this season...eddie

ninjamunky85 · March 13th, 2014, 07:18 PM

To me the 300 is a nice, but not major, improvement over the 250. Not messing with a choke is nice. Not having the front end almost bottom out when braking is nice. The added power is nice, mostly I notice the extra torque at slow speeds. The slipper clutch is probably more beneficial to inexperienced riders, or those who track their 300. Obviously the look of the bike is more modern as well.

I still have the stock steering bearings, and have had no problem with them. The bike rides straight as an arrow with no head shake, even when I take my hands off the bars.

Han Solo 1 · March 14th, 2014, 07:11 AM

Is there a risk to waiting for new ball bearings? If I wait too long and let the stock ones do their thing, will it damage the bike in a way that's not fixable?

I really would like to get some SS brake lines and new pads, just to inspire some confidence. This model doesn't have the ABS option so I'd like to do the best I can in that department.

After that, maybe some new Pirelli's for better grip and cornering. (Although it will be hard to convince the boss/wife that I need new tires on a 1 year old bike that has 2,300 miles. I can slash one of them at work, but that would probably cause her unneeded stress.)

And THEN ball bearings.

csmith12 · March 14th, 2014, 07:23 AM

There will be no harm in waiting on the bearings if you feel you would benefit and gain confidence from tires and brakes. That is just plain and simple common sense.

Han Solo 1 · March 14th, 2014, 07:49 AM

Dammit.

Now this guy is telling me he can't do it this weekend.

I'm getting a bad feeling about this sale. Damn thing is, there aren't any other ones in perfect condition in the area.

Han Solo 1 · March 14th, 2014, 08:45 AM

I think I'm going to be ok. Renting a U-haul motorcycle trailer for $15 and just going up and getting it myself.

Ugh. It's always something. . .

I really want it this weekend because next week it's all sun and 70's!!

old3 · March 14th, 2014, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eddiekay

Jim...so after talking to you last year I got the bearings from Hard racing.....still in the box. Now...granted I only have a little over 3k on the bike but no wiggle, vibes, nothing bad. I wouldn't argue with a guy from jersey but.....are you sure you don't have the DT's or something ?
We'll meet up this season...eddie

I might Eddie!!! That would explain a lot buddy!

Yes, as soon as you can stand the weather we shall take a good ride out in the hills.

So, Eddie, you did the 50 MPH hands off test too? I'm betting those Long Island pot holes did more damage than you know in the steering head.

old3 · March 14th, 2014, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Han Solo 1

Is there a risk to waiting for new ball bearings? If I wait too long and let the stock ones do their thing, will it damage the bike in a way that's not fixable?

I really would like to get some SS brake lines and new pads, just to inspire some confidence. This model doesn't have the ABS option so I'd like to do the best I can in that department.

After that, maybe some new Pirelli's for better grip and cornering. (Although it will be hard to convince the boss/wife that I need new tires on a 1 year old bike that has 2,300 miles. I can slash one of them at work, but that would probably cause her unneeded stress.)

And THEN ball bearings.

No risk, it'll just be that much more of a positive difference when you get to them. Several claim to have no issues with the stockers, and that is great. There have been enough who have had issues in even very low mile bikes, and who reported great improvement after swapping to make it an actual "thing" with these bikes.

I think some just expect a crappy overall feel, and the stock bearings are a big part of that "looseness" these have. I wish I'd have done these on my Ninja 500 years ago, but I said to myself, it is brand new, how could any bearings be bad. looking back, I know this was the problem with it, but I lived with it like a dummy. Sold the bike at 10k miles partially because it was suck a clapped out feeling machine.

Han Solo 1 · March 14th, 2014, 12:47 PM

So now it looks like Sunday.

Argh. How long does it freaking take to de-winterize a bike?

Han Solo 1 · March 14th, 2014, 12:58 PM

I don't like that the whole process has so far been a hassle.

The seller is hemming and hawing about handing it over this weekend. His first excuse is that he has to de-wintersize it so he couldn’t deliver it yesterday, but has to wait til this weekend. First he was going to ride it down to me (he lives 1 ½ hours away) tomorrow. Then he says it’s too cold tomorrow and he just got over being sick, so it will have to be next weekend. So I offer to go up there with a motorcycle trailer (from u-haul) and pick it up. He then says to give him a few hours to “confirm”. Then he gets back to me and asks for me to do it on Sunday. Fine, whatever.

I just don’t like deals that aren’t butter-smooth; it gives me a suspicion about something being wrong.

So, am I just being paranoid? If I’m not, I’d like to ask you a question.

Say you’ve got $4,500 budgeted for a motorcycle. Is the 300 automatically the best choice?

antiant · March 14th, 2014, 01:06 PM

I personally wouldn't do the deal with this dude, he is too flakey. Flakey = usually more headaches and problems, or potentially hiding something. The guy either wants the money or he doesn't.

Han Solo 1 · March 14th, 2014, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by antiant

I personally wouldn't do the deal with this dude, he is too flakey. Flakey = usually more headaches and problems, or potentially hiding something. The guy either wants the money or he doesn't.

Yeah, I tend to agree. Only thing is, there is literally only one other 300 in my area, and it's been down and scratched up.

jeffb502 · March 14th, 2014, 01:13 PM

I'm usually a little suspicious when there are no pictures posted. The delays and excuses are bad. Maybe he doesn't want to sell it but his wife told him he has to? Or maybe he's just one of those people that goes through life constantly making excuses.

Sometimes you run across some weird people on Craigslist, both selling and buying. Have you confirmed yet that he has a clear title with no leinholders, etc.? Regarding the de-winterizing... if you have a trailer couldn't you just offer a couple hundred less and take it away "winterized"?

The 300 is not automatically the best choice, but it is a good one. It's the best choice for me right now because I'm still learning, but I could see myself wanting a 650 or some other slightly larger bike in the near future as a longer distance slab type bike. If I could only have one right now it would be the 300.

There's a 650 on Craigslist near me that the person has posted and I'm considering trading one of my extra 4 wheeled vehicles for it since nobody seems to want to buy them. The 650 has been up for a while asking $3500 (it's a 2007) but they recently dropped the asking price to $3000 and mentioned they'd be willing to trade for a car or truck. I figure I can keep learning on the 300, but take the 650 out every now and then to get the feel for something with a little more power and a little more weight to see if that's for me. If I had $4500 and a little more experience I might consider a used 650 as my only bike, but I haven't ridden one yet so I really don't know, and I really like my 300.

Han Solo 1 · March 14th, 2014, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffb502

I'm usually a little suspicious when there are no pictures posted. The delays and excuses are bad. Maybe he doesn't want to sell it but his wife told him he has to? Or maybe he's just one of those people that goes through life constantly making excuses.

Sometimes you run across some weird people on Craigslist, both selling and buying. Have you confirmed yet that he has a clear title with no leinholders, etc.? Regarding the de-winterizing... if you have a trailer couldn't you just offer a couple hundred less and take it away "winterized"?

The 300 is not automatically the best choice, but it is a good one. It's the best choice for me right now because I'm still learning, but I could see myself wanting a 650 or some other slightly larger bike in the near future as a longer distance slab type bike. If I could only have one right now it would be the 300.

There's a 650 on Craigslist near me that the person has posted and I'm considering trading one of my extra 4 wheeled vehicles for it since nobody seems to want to buy them. The 650 has been up for a while asking $3500 (it's a 2007) but they recently dropped the asking price to $3000 and mentioned they'd be willing to trade for a car or truck. I figure I can keep learning on the 300, but take the 650 out every now and then to get the feel for something with a little more power and a little more weight to see if that's for me. If I had $4500 and a little more experience I might consider a used 650 as my only bike, but I haven't ridden one yet so I really don't know, and I really like my 300.

Really good points. I have an uneasy feeling, but I'm not sure why. He does have a picture up, but it's just the one pic. It looks to be in good shape, and besides, I will give it a thorough inspection when I see it.

I'd just hate to drive all the way up there and find it less than advertised.

I just emailed the other Ninja 300 in my area to see if I can get some more pics, how bad the scratches on the plastics are, etc. I think it's got scratches on both sides of the plastics. But it's a white model, so they probably aren't as hard to get as the SE plastics.

I don't know. I'm pretty frustrated. It's not the extra day of waiting, it's the not knowing if I can trust this guy.

allanoue · March 14th, 2014, 01:24 PM

I love my 300
I payed a grand more for my 300 but it was right out of the crate.
I would rather get your deal, but there were no used 300 a year ago.

Han Solo 1 · March 14th, 2014, 01:29 PM

Ok, so then the question is:

A white 2013 300 with a few minor scratches from falling over in the dirt, supposedly?

Or the green SE with no blemishes?

The green is about $300 or $400 more than the white. Both have about same mileage, white has a few hundred more.

allanoue · March 14th, 2014, 01:32 PM

white is faster

jeffb502 · March 14th, 2014, 01:40 PM

My white 300 has a few scratches. It looks like it went down at very slow speed on the right side. I noticed when looking very closely at it, but usually I have to point the scratches out to people that are looking at it because they don't notice them. A seller that's willing to tell you up front there are some minor scratches is better than somebody that just remains silent and lets you find the defects. To me somebody that lists the faults in the ads implies an openness/honesty that's better than a short ad with just the basics and a "you find out what's wrong with it" vibe.

Personally I like white vehicles with black accents, so I'm a bit biased. Both of my cars and my Yukon are white with a little black here and there.

That said, I think my favorite 300 is the solid green that we don't get here in the US. I'm not a big fan of the SE color schemes, especially the '14 ones, but it's all a matter of personal preference. If it's just color and a few scratches and they're pretty much the same mechanically I'd take the white one for a bit less. How much does the guy want for the white 300? Is the white one closer to you? Are you sure the SE is in perfect condition without having seen it?

ez12a · March 14th, 2014, 01:48 PM

falling over in the dirt, does that mean while parked it was knocked over or was he riding it in the dirt when it fell over? Falling over while he was standing still isnt too bad. My bike fell over on both sides while stopped and the damage was only superficial.

SE have ABS too? that makes it definitely worth.

Han Solo 1 · March 14th, 2014, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffb502

If it's just color and a few scratches and they're pretty much the same mechanically I'd take the white one for a bit less. How much does the guy want for the white 300? Is the white one closer to you? Are you sure the SE is in perfect condition without having seen it?

The "White" seller says that it's mechanically perfect, and the "Green" seller it's cosmetically and mechanically perfect. I haven't seen either one.

White says he wants 4300, vs 4500 for the green. White is closer to me and is willing to drive out here to show it. Has red rear-sets. I've never had rear-sets so I don't know if I like that. He also has a fender eliminator kit, which I do like.

It might be worth it if I can get the white to go down a bit, using scratches as an excuse, and then spend the savings on some SS brake lines or something.

I wonder how much new plastics cost for the white 300. . .

Han Solo 1 · March 14th, 2014, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ez12a

falling over in the dirt, does that mean while parked it was knocked over or was he riding it in the dirt when it fell over? Falling over while he was standing still isnt too bad. My bike fell over on both sides while stopped and the damage was only superficial.

SE have ABS too? that makes it definitely worth.

No, this green SE doesn't have ABS.

White says it was dropped "a few times" while parked in the dirt. I don't like the "few times", plural, but maybe I should at least take a look.

It also says that the exhaust has scratches on it, too.

allanoue · March 14th, 2014, 02:02 PM

You should have no problem getting the white 300 for 4.1k and scratches can be painted for cheap, as long as they are not cracked.

Han Solo 1 · March 14th, 2014, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by allanoue

You should have no problem getting the white 300 for 4.1k and scratches can be painted for cheap, as long as they are not cracked.

He sent me a bunch of pics of scratches. No cracks. Looks like a good paint job would fix them up.

I just asked if he'd do 4k. We'll see.

If so, I might jump on it. Saving $500 is worth a few scratches.

jeffb502 · March 14th, 2014, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Han Solo 1

The "White" seller says that it's mechanically perfect, and the "Green" seller it's cosmetically and mechanically perfect. I haven't seen either one.

White says he wants 4300, vs 4500 for the green. White is closer to me and is willing to drive out here to show it. Has red rear-sets. I've never had rear-sets so I don't know if I like that. He also has a fender eliminator kit, which I do like.

It might be worth it if I can get the white to go down a bit, using scratches as an excuse, and then spend the savings on some SS brake lines or something.

I wonder how much new plastics cost for the white 300. . .

I got my used white one from a motorcycle dealer that was asking $3999 for it. It had a little under 1300 miles on it. I thought that was a good deal so I didn't negotiate much. It wound up being $4350 out the door after taxes, fees, "safety inspection and other b.s. charges not mentioned in the ad" etc. It broke down as follows:

Base Price $3662.22
Dealer Prep/Freight/Safety Fee $195
Doc Fee $65

Subtotal- Vehicle Cost: $3922.22
(this is what the DMV and I consider to be the price of the vehicle)

Sales tax (8%): $313.78
DMV Fees: $114

Total: $4350

I'd say since you most likely have to pay the taxes and registration yourself on a private party transaction you should be able to get him down to at least $3900-4000, depending on the damage and local market conditions.

antiant · March 14th, 2014, 02:15 PM

Yeah, I'm with the white, then again I have that color. Mine also has a few scratches from noob drops, but it's barely noticeable from afar.

ally99 · March 14th, 2014, 02:29 PM

I love the slipper clutch! Compared to my old 250, it's like a hot knife through butter smooth. It may be slightly smoother than the 250, but I never felt like I was getting shaken around on the 250 either. I liked my 300 from day one, but I LOVED it after taking it on the track! It outperforms the 250 hands-down. There's much less shifting to be done and no bogging since the power band has a wider range on the 300 than it did on the 250.

Han Solo 1 · March 14th, 2014, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffb502

I'd say since you most likely have to pay the taxes and registration yourself on a private party transaction you should be able to get him down to at least $3900-4000, depending on the damage and local market conditions.

Quote:

Originally Posted by antiant

Mine also has a few scratches from noob drops, but it's barely noticeable from afar.

He said yes to 4k, and we are going to meet up tomorrow night, but. . . .

Now I'm not so sure. I keep asking him how many scratches it has, was it stationary when it fell, etc. etc. etc., and he answers each question just fine.

But then I find out that he's covered it in vinyl and plastidip. I ask him if can please take that off, I'm not a big fan of it. He says sure.

Then it occurs to me to ask him if there are any cracks, or just scratches. Now he tells me that yes, one piece is "broken" but there is a replacement piece coming next week. (He never mentioned this until I asked). And that "if anything else is cracked when I take off the vinyl, I will replace it".

He is going to mail me the replacement piece next week when it gets here, along with the title "if I get it by then". (I did know that he hadn't paid it off completely yet, but still, that sounds off.)

I think I will go with the green one after all, just for the peace of mind.

The "broken piece" tells me that there might be more than just a couple of falls. And some of the scratches are fairly deep and long. The black material shows through the paint.

ez12a · March 14th, 2014, 02:34 PM

yeah..how does he not know there are other cracks? i bet the vinyl was there to cover them up for cheap. Also dont bother with a guy with no title. Pass.

reminds me of this one bike, i think it was like a 2013 CBR600RR and the guy owed like 8k on it and it had a blown motor. ha yeah right.

antiant · March 14th, 2014, 03:04 PM

Do what you will, but I personally wouldn't go with either of these people. I know you want a bike, but sometimes patience is key. There are too many red flags for my liking.

Han Solo 1 · March 14th, 2014, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by antiant

Do what you will, but I personally wouldn't go with either of these people. I know you want a bike, but sometimes patience is key. There are too many red flags for my liking.

I know what you're saying. But these have been the only 300's in the last two or three months. I've been checking.

I don't know. . . .

March 13th, 2014, 01:02 PM	#1
Han Solo 1 ninjette.org guru Name: Han Solo Location: Albuquerque Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): Had a 2008 Ninja 250, til some low-life stole it. Now riding a 2013 red cbr250. Posts: 274	Getting a 300 So it looks like I'll be getting a 2013 SE this weekend. I don't plan on doing much highway riding, but how does this do on the highway vs the 250? On the 250 I felt as I'd shake off the thing. Any difference on the 300? Also, do you guys REALLY notice a difference in clutch use vs the non-slip-clutch 250? I'm really looking forward to not having carbs to mess with or wait for anymore.
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

March 13th, 2014, 01:22 PM	#3
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	It's moderately smoother on the highway. Partly due to higher gearing (which you can get by changing sprockets on earlier bikes), partly due to a smoother engine, and partly due to slightly relaxed steering geometry. Clutch is slightly lighter effort, and does take a smidge of getting used in terms of feel. But it's not night and day, and the slipper function rarely comes into play in street usage. __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

March 13th, 2014, 07:18 PM	#12
ninjamunky85 Que Buenos Son!!! Name: Ryan Location: Grovetucky, OH Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): Aprilia Shiver 750, Husaberg FE 450, Ninja 300 (sold), xr100 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Nov '14	To me the 300 is a nice, but not major, improvement over the 250. Not messing with a choke is nice. Not having the front end almost bottom out when braking is nice. The added power is nice, mostly I notice the extra torque at slow speeds. The slipper clutch is probably more beneficial to inexperienced riders, or those who track their 300. Obviously the look of the bike is more modern as well. I still have the stock steering bearings, and have had no problem with them. The bike rides straight as an arrow with no head shake, even when I take my hands off the bars. __________________________________________________ Don't do something because it's easy,.. Do it because it's not! If you aren't going forward, then you're falling behind. "Drive it like you stole it"!!!

March 14th, 2014, 07:23 AM	#14
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	There will be no harm in waiting on the bearings if you feel you would benefit and gain confidence from tires and brakes. That is just plain and simple common sense. __________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School

March 14th, 2014, 02:29 PM	#36
ally99 Ninja chick Name: Allyson Location: Athens, GA Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 4 MOTM - Dec '13, Feb '15	I love the slipper clutch! Compared to my old 250, it's like a hot knife through butter smooth. It may be slightly smoother than the 250, but I never felt like I was getting shaken around on the 250 either. I liked my 300 from day one, but I LOVED it after taking it on the track! It outperforms the 250 hands-down. There's much less shifting to be done and no bogging since the power band has a wider range on the 300 than it did on the 250. __________________________________________________ Sometimes it's the journey that teaches you a lot about your destination. ~Drake Check out my Appalachian Trail journal, 2015! Postwhores are COOL! ~Allyson

March 13th, 2014, 01:20 PM	#2
jeffb502 ninjette.org guru Name: Jeff Location: Santa Maria, CA Join Date: Oct 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2013 White Ninja 300, 2010 Red Ninja 250r (Sold) Posts: 335	I never felt like I'd shake off my 250 on the highway. The 300 feels a little better, but is not a huge difference. It cruises at 80mph just fine at around 9000rpm I think, with plenty left. For prolonged highway riding a lot of people like to go up 1 tooth on the front sprocket. Even stock I think it's fine on the highway. I rode from Santa Maria to Orange County a while ago and never felt like the 300 was underpowered or too light to be on the freeway. My 2010 250 had about 16,000 miles on it. The clutch lever on my 250 was very firm compared to my 300, which just turned over 2,000 miles. I prefer the smooth, light clutch on the 300. As a learning rider I think of the slipper clutch as more of a safety feature to help control the bike when I do something stupid, like ABS (which my 300 doesn't have). On the 250 one time I accidentally downshifted into 2nd and dumped the clutch approaching a corner, and I could feel the back end start to drift side to side a bit. My understanding is the slipper clutch on the 300 would help prevent this type of loss of traction due to improper/unintended rider input. I don't know if I would feel it kick in like ABS, and I'm not confident enough (and don't even know what to do) to intentionally do something that would make the slipper clutch work. Quite simply, I haven't noticed a difference with the slipper clutch, but I think it's a nice thing to have just in case, like ABS. The fuel injection is indeed an improvement. I also prefer the dashboard/gauges on the 300 to those of the 250.

March 13th, 2014, 01:55 PM	#4
old3 ninjette.org sage Name: Jim Location: NJ Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300, KTM EXC610SMR Posts: 913	I use the slipper all the time, but I have a dirt/sumoto background where that is a very common cornering style. Shake you off it??? LOL, I have to say it almost every single time, STEERING HEAD BEARINGS!!! They all share a crappy bearing type, and low quality to boot. All Balls tapered rollers are around $40 and a 2 hour job taking your time. Do it. Gear it too, it pulls the taller gearing pretty effortlessly. I find the +1 CS swap a good match to what is "common" street bike gearing. I find the 300 a huge upgrade over the 2012 250 my son bought new, many don't feel much difference, I can't explain that.

March 13th, 2014, 02:36 PM	#6
old3 ninjette.org sage Name: Jim Location: NJ Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300, KTM EXC610SMR Posts: 913	It's not that bad, just release the bars at 50 MPH and keep your hands very close and ready to grab them. If they are shot/loose the bars will start to wag.I haven't had it go full stop to stop yet, usually up to about a 2" wobble in that scenario. Of course, if you are not skilled enough to be confident trying this, do not do it!!! Also, it should be done in a controlled setting, closed course, no traffic, etc... I'm not advocating everyone do this test, but many have learned from "no hands' bicycle riding and it is pretty much the same. The bike should simply track straight ahead. Tire cupping can cause this too, but I've actually dialed mine into and out of doing exactly this with bearing preload. With the loose balls, correct preload can't be set if the race is scarred or the balls are moving off their plane. You can set it, but turning the stem in the balls changes it if they can't be held in place, and the point of contact is super tiny. The thing about the 50 MPH point is as it drops speed, it pretty much wobbles then regains control. If you have a more precision feel for the steering, you can feel the stem walking at speed in turns or not with your hands holding the bars too. The tire kinda hunts for its line, despite you having picked one for it.

March 13th, 2014, 03:19 PM	#8
old3 ninjette.org sage Name: Jim Location: NJ Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300, KTM EXC610SMR Posts: 913	All Balls tapered roller bearings are the same pn from the 08-12 250. They work really well. Have you taken the forks and front wheel apart yet? It is pretty basic stuff, a hammer & a few sockets/extensions are the minimal tools to drive the races in. Bearing press is another method, I think someone here just bought one. Yu need the front wheel off the ground and the bike supported well. I used a floor jack, a plywood "plate" and the side stand as a third leg with the rear tire touching too. Just watch bumping into it like that! Read up on it, someone just did a pretty good tutorial recently. If I come across it I'll link it here.

March 13th, 2014, 07:02 PM	#11
eddiekay ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: eddie Location: Lawnguylind Join Date: Nov 2009 Motorcycle(s): 300, WeeStrom Posts: A lot.	Jim...so after talking to you last year I got the bearings from Hard racing.....still in the box. Now...granted I only have a little over 3k on the bike but no wiggle, vibes, nothing bad. I wouldn't argue with a guy from jersey but.....are you sure you don't have the DT's or something ? We'll meet up this season...eddie

March 14th, 2014, 07:11 AM	#13
Han Solo 1 ninjette.org guru Name: Han Solo Location: Albuquerque Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): Had a 2008 Ninja 250, til some low-life stole it. Now riding a 2013 red cbr250. Posts: 274	Is there a risk to waiting for new ball bearings? If I wait too long and let the stock ones do their thing, will it damage the bike in a way that's not fixable? I really would like to get some SS brake lines and new pads, just to inspire some confidence. This model doesn't have the ABS option so I'd like to do the best I can in that department. After that, maybe some new Pirelli's for better grip and cornering. (Although it will be hard to convince the boss/wife that I need new tires on a 1 year old bike that has 2,300 miles. I can slash one of them at work, but that would probably cause her unneeded stress.) And THEN ball bearings.

March 14th, 2014, 07:49 AM	#15
Han Solo 1 ninjette.org guru Name: Han Solo Location: Albuquerque Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): Had a 2008 Ninja 250, til some low-life stole it. Now riding a 2013 red cbr250. Posts: 274	Dammit. Now this guy is telling me he can't do it this weekend. I'm getting a bad feeling about this sale. Damn thing is, there aren't any other ones in perfect condition in the area.

March 14th, 2014, 08:45 AM	#16
Han Solo 1 ninjette.org guru Name: Han Solo Location: Albuquerque Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): Had a 2008 Ninja 250, til some low-life stole it. Now riding a 2013 red cbr250. Posts: 274	I think I'm going to be ok. Renting a U-haul motorcycle trailer for $15 and just going up and getting it myself. Ugh. It's always something. . . I really want it this weekend because next week it's all sun and 70's!!

March 14th, 2014, 12:47 PM	#19
Han Solo 1 ninjette.org guru Name: Han Solo Location: Albuquerque Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): Had a 2008 Ninja 250, til some low-life stole it. Now riding a 2013 red cbr250. Posts: 274	So now it looks like Sunday. Argh. How long does it freaking take to de-winterize a bike?

March 14th, 2014, 12:58 PM	#20
Han Solo 1 ninjette.org guru Name: Han Solo Location: Albuquerque Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): Had a 2008 Ninja 250, til some low-life stole it. Now riding a 2013 red cbr250. Posts: 274	I don't like that the whole process has so far been a hassle. The seller is hemming and hawing about handing it over this weekend. His first excuse is that he has to de-wintersize it so he couldn’t deliver it yesterday, but has to wait til this weekend. First he was going to ride it down to me (he lives 1 ½ hours away) tomorrow. Then he says it’s too cold tomorrow and he just got over being sick, so it will have to be next weekend. So I offer to go up there with a motorcycle trailer (from u-haul) and pick it up. He then says to give him a few hours to “confirm”. Then he gets back to me and asks for me to do it on Sunday. Fine, whatever. I just don’t like deals that aren’t butter-smooth; it gives me a suspicion about something being wrong. So, am I just being paranoid? If I’m not, I’d like to ask you a question. Say you’ve got $4,500 budgeted for a motorcycle. Is the 300 automatically the best choice?

March 14th, 2014, 01:06 PM	#21
antiant antiant Name: antiant Location: Cali Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): None Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '14	I personally wouldn't do the deal with this dude, he is too flakey. Flakey = usually more headaches and problems, or potentially hiding something. The guy either wants the money or he doesn't.

March 14th, 2014, 01:13 PM	#23
jeffb502 ninjette.org guru Name: Jeff Location: Santa Maria, CA Join Date: Oct 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2013 White Ninja 300, 2010 Red Ninja 250r (Sold) Posts: 335	I'm usually a little suspicious when there are no pictures posted. The delays and excuses are bad. Maybe he doesn't want to sell it but his wife told him he has to? Or maybe he's just one of those people that goes through life constantly making excuses. Sometimes you run across some weird people on Craigslist, both selling and buying. Have you confirmed yet that he has a clear title with no leinholders, etc.? Regarding the de-winterizing... if you have a trailer couldn't you just offer a couple hundred less and take it away "winterized"? The 300 is not automatically the best choice, but it is a good one. It's the best choice for me right now because I'm still learning, but I could see myself wanting a 650 or some other slightly larger bike in the near future as a longer distance slab type bike. If I could only have one right now it would be the 300. There's a 650 on Craigslist near me that the person has posted and I'm considering trading one of my extra 4 wheeled vehicles for it since nobody seems to want to buy them. The 650 has been up for a while asking $3500 (it's a 2007) but they recently dropped the asking price to $3000 and mentioned they'd be willing to trade for a car or truck. I figure I can keep learning on the 300, but take the 650 out every now and then to get the feel for something with a little more power and a little more weight to see if that's for me. If I had $4500 and a little more experience I might consider a used 650 as my only bike, but I haven't ridden one yet so I really don't know, and I really like my 300.

March 14th, 2014, 01:24 PM	#25
allanoue ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Al Location: York, Pa Join Date: Dec 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja 300..............2008 Ninja 500-sold...2009 Ninja 250-Crashed Posts: Too much. MOTM - Sep '14	I love my 300 I payed a grand more for my 300 but it was right out of the crate. I would rather get your deal, but there were no used 300 a year ago.

March 14th, 2014, 01:29 PM	#26
Han Solo 1 ninjette.org guru Name: Han Solo Location: Albuquerque Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): Had a 2008 Ninja 250, til some low-life stole it. Now riding a 2013 red cbr250. Posts: 274	Ok, so then the question is: A white 2013 300 with a few minor scratches from falling over in the dirt, supposedly? Or the green SE with no blemishes? The green is about $300 or $400 more than the white. Both have about same mileage, white has a few hundred more.

March 14th, 2014, 01:32 PM	#27
allanoue ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Al Location: York, Pa Join Date: Dec 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja 300..............2008 Ninja 500-sold...2009 Ninja 250-Crashed Posts: Too much. MOTM - Sep '14	white is faster

March 14th, 2014, 01:40 PM	#28
jeffb502 ninjette.org guru Name: Jeff Location: Santa Maria, CA Join Date: Oct 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2013 White Ninja 300, 2010 Red Ninja 250r (Sold) Posts: 335	My white 300 has a few scratches. It looks like it went down at very slow speed on the right side. I noticed when looking very closely at it, but usually I have to point the scratches out to people that are looking at it because they don't notice them. A seller that's willing to tell you up front there are some minor scratches is better than somebody that just remains silent and lets you find the defects. To me somebody that lists the faults in the ads implies an openness/honesty that's better than a short ad with just the basics and a "you find out what's wrong with it" vibe. Personally I like white vehicles with black accents, so I'm a bit biased. Both of my cars and my Yukon are white with a little black here and there. That said, I think my favorite 300 is the solid green that we don't get here in the US. I'm not a big fan of the SE color schemes, especially the '14 ones, but it's all a matter of personal preference. If it's just color and a few scratches and they're pretty much the same mechanically I'd take the white one for a bit less. How much does the guy want for the white 300? Is the white one closer to you? Are you sure the SE is in perfect condition without having seen it?

March 14th, 2014, 01:48 PM	#29
ez12a ninjette.org member Name: Ryan Location: OC, CA Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R (Sold), 2007 SV650S Posts: 161	falling over in the dirt, does that mean while parked it was knocked over or was he riding it in the dirt when it fell over? Falling over while he was standing still isnt too bad. My bike fell over on both sides while stopped and the damage was only superficial. SE have ABS too? that makes it definitely worth.

March 14th, 2014, 02:02 PM	#32
allanoue ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Al Location: York, Pa Join Date: Dec 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja 300..............2008 Ninja 500-sold...2009 Ninja 250-Crashed Posts: Too much. MOTM - Sep '14	You should have no problem getting the white 300 for 4.1k and scratches can be painted for cheap, as long as they are not cracked.

March 14th, 2014, 02:15 PM	#35
antiant antiant Name: antiant Location: Cali Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): None Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '14	Yeah, I'm with the white, then again I have that color. Mine also has a few scratches from noob drops, but it's barely noticeable from afar.

March 14th, 2014, 02:34 PM	#38
ez12a ninjette.org member Name: Ryan Location: OC, CA Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R (Sold), 2007 SV650S Posts: 161	yeah..how does he not know there are other cracks? i bet the vinyl was there to cover them up for cheap. Also dont bother with a guy with no title. Pass. reminds me of this one bike, i think it was like a 2013 CBR600RR and the guy owed like 8k on it and it had a blown motor. ha yeah right.

March 14th, 2014, 03:04 PM	#39
antiant antiant Name: antiant Location: Cali Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): None Posts: A lot. MOTM - Oct '14	Do what you will, but I personally wouldn't go with either of these people. I know you want a bike, but sometimes patience is key. There are too many red flags for my liking.