Worn Clutch?

[TennsDog]

I purchased a 2006 Ninja 250 this summer, and (surprise!) it had some work needing to be done. When I was in the shop recently, he made a comment that my clutch was soon needing replacement because the lever has to be let almost all the way out to get any engagement. He said I'd need it replace in about 1,000 miles (a couple hundred miles ago). It's the only motorcycle I've ridden besides during the MSF class, so I never really gave much thought to it. The bike has about 8,000 miles on it, and the issue seems to be getting more pronounced (or I could just be more aware of it). I thought I saw somewhere on the forums that the plates should pretty much never need to be replaced, so I'm wondering (hoping) if it's something else that needs replacing or adjusting. Cable? Springs?
Thanks.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by TennsDog

I purchased a 2006 Ninja 250 this summer, and (surprise!) it had some work needing to be done. When I was in the shop recently, he made a comment that my clutch was soon needing replacement because the lever has to be let almost all the way out to get any engagement. He said I'd need it replace in about 1,000 miles (a couple hundred miles ago). It's the only motorcycle I've ridden besides during the MSF class, so I never really gave much thought to it. The bike has about 8,000 miles on it, and the issue seems to be getting more pronounced (or I could just be more aware of it). I thought I saw somewhere on the forums that the plates should pretty much never need to be replaced, so I'm wondering (hoping) if it's something else that needs replacing or adjusting. Cable? Springs?
Thanks.

I would check the adjustment first before saying you need a new clutch. Here's a how-to for adjusting the cable - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Adjusting_the_clutch_cable

The Ninja's clutch can take a lot of abuse, and the springs are usually the weak link. Unless there was excessive slipping going on, I doubt it needs clutch plates. It possibly could use a set of springs, but with the miles you have on it (8000) I don't think they should be bad.

Confirm the proper adjustment on the cable, and if that doesn't help let us know. The clutch engaging toward the end of the travel isn't a huge problem. A problem would be when you tried to speed-up and engine revved-up but you didn't accelerate. If that's not happening you don't have a major clutch problem.

[csmith12]

Welcome Damon!

If you can't adjust it yourself, go to a different shop. Lever position at the clutch engagement point is a HORRIBLE way to tell if you need a new clutch or not.

[Ghostt]

What type of oil? Most modern oils contain additives that while work for car engines are not recommend for wet clutch itself.

[TennsDog]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

What type of oil? Most modern oils contain additives that while work for car engines are not recommend for wet clutch itself.

PO said it was Shell Rotella T6.

I'll definitely take a look at the cable adjustment as my first step at this point.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by TennsDog

PO said it was Shell Rotella T6.

I'll definitely take a look at the cable adjustment as my first step at this point.

My bad, and I agree with the adjustment first, also the Ninjette doesn't have much of a friction zone, compared to other bike, but definitely check that adjustment for sure.

[Ghostt]

IMHO the clutch springs themselves are weak from Kawasaki, they did this due to its entry level bike, as well as the EX500. The clutch itself is pretty much bulletproof, as Kawasaki used it on bigger bikes like the KZ 1000 etc.....

It's an upgrade I have made to both the Ninjette and EX500, it's a cheap upgrade, and an easy one to do, and helps the clutch fully do it's job.

It's been proven on the EX500 that the OEM springs cause slippage at high RPMs.

Clutch springs determine the recoil of the clutch lever; how hard it is to pull the lever and, when the lever is released, how much force is holding the lever up against its stop. Weak clutch springs make it very easy to pull the lever, which is convenient for weak riders, but can result in some clutch slippage, as the engine is not fully engaged when the clutch is released. With stiffer clutch springs, the lever is harder to pull, but when the lever is released, the clutch is fully disengaged, and there will be no clutch slippage, so the engine is allowed to direct all of its power to the rear wheel. It is believed that, since many newbies and female riders are attracted to the EX-500, Kawasaki opted to use softer clutch spring that would allow easier disengagement of the engine.
Our beloved FOG strongly recommends replacing the stock clutch springs. He says that he was losing about 500 RPM at redline to clutch slippage on the race track. With the stiffer springs holding tighter, the engine was now able transmit more of its power to the rear wheel

I recommend upgrading the clutch springs themselves, as I wrote for write-up

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...ping_clutch%3F

Upgrading to performance clutch springs by Ghostt

Choosing Clutch Springs

Barnett aftermarket clutch springs for a 1985-1989 ZX-600, Part # 501-50-05055. You can view them online at the Barnett catalog, here: http://www.barnettclutches.com/produ...&clutch_cc=600 They can be ordered through your local dealership, or at a number of online sources. Here is one such online catalog: http://www.exoticsportbike.com/6001.htm

Another option is the EBC CSK10 (see http://www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle_..._springs.shtml). This kit isn't quite as stiff as the Barnett, but is better than stock and usually a little cheaper. The kit does include six springs, while the ninja 250 only uses four.

Category: Clutch & Transmission

Something else is inspect the cable itself, if any doubt, replace it, if it's fine lube it.

This is the one I recommend and use on ALL my cables

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by TennsDog

......... so I'm wondering (hoping) if it's something else that needs replacing or adjusting........

Yes; the mechanic who made a comment that your clutch "was soon needing replacement because the lever has to be let almost all the way out to get any engagement".

As others stated above, lubrication of all pivoting and sliding parts of the control mechanism and adjustment may be all your clutch needs.

Also verify that the level of oil is not going up gradually and that the oil does not have a strong gasoline odor.

[TennsDog]

I just played with the adjustment of the clutch cable, and I think it generally did the trick. I was able to make it so that there is some extra play on both ends, and shifting seemed crisper.

Anyway, the new slight issue is that the clutch lever doesn't return to the fully-out position. I'm guessing this can be remedied by some lubrication of the cable and/or pivot on the engine case. Would it be acceptable to try some chain lubricant (either bicycle or motorcycle) or 3-in-1 household oil on either of these, or is that a bad idea?

Thanks for the great help so far. Saved me $400 for the new clutch.

[Ghostt]

Chain lube is a bit sticky, any one of your favorite lubricant, also get some cable lube, not only will it help the cables, it will prolong there life. Broken cables suxs.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by TennsDog

I just played with the adjustment of the clutch cable, and I think it generally did the trick. I was able to make it so that there is some extra play on both ends, and shifting seemed crisper.

Anyway, the new slight issue is that the clutch lever doesn't return to the fully-out position. I'm guessing this can be remedied by some lubrication of the cable and/or pivot on the engine case. Would it be acceptable to try some chain lubricant (either bicycle or motorcycle) or 3-in-1 household oil on either of these, or is that a bad idea?

Thanks for the great help so far. Saved me $400 for the new clutch.

If I'm following, that means it's not adjusted properly.

I agree with what others have said about the mechanic's comment. Seems like he was just looking for easy work.

[TennsDog]

Originally Posted by jkv45

If I'm following, that means it's not adjusted properly.

Sorry, maybe wasn't very clear. It doesn't spring itself back out fully. It can go out if I push it, but the last inch or so is basically floppy. Perhaps you're right and it's still not adjusted properly? Maybe I should adjust it back out a bit. I'm just getting into the mechanics of motorcycles, so I'm sure there'll be some playing around to figure things out.

[csmith12]

Yea, it's not right I bet. You may have to adjust both ends to get it perfect.

[Ghostt]

There should be a little wiggle room, but only a few mm 2~3mm


Once again read the how-to guide
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Adjusting_the_clutch_cable

Make your course adjustment down by the clutch cover, then fine adjustment at the clutch perch itself.

Also it's possible your cable is stretched out, which means a new cable, if in doubt replace it before your stuck.

Buy one anyway and have it ready just in case. A trick from the dirt bike is to tie the new cable to the one in use, if it breaks, you will have it with you, and switch it over on the spot. A trick I use, and has come in handy several times.

If your looks like this, order a replacement ASAP!!!

[jkv45]

It sounds like the cable is hanging-up and needs lubing or, more likely, replacing.

[TennsDog]

Yeah, I think a new cable is in order. I just set the coarse adjustment all the way out, and the fine adjustment at the handle had to be almost all the way out as well to get proper function. It seems to be working well now, but I don't have much room to play with if it stretches much more.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by TennsDog

Yeah, I think a new cable is in order. I just set the coarse adjustment all the way out, and the fine adjustment at the handle had to be almost all the way out as well to get proper function. It seems to be working well now, but I don't have much room to play with if it stretches much more.

Where the coarse and the fine adjustments are?

There are two adjusters, one at the handle and one at the lever that enters the clutch cavity (right side of the engine).

[TennsDog]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Where the coarse and the fine adjustments are?

There are two adjusters, one at the handle and one at the lever that enters the clutch cavity (right side of the engine).

I'm calling the one on the handle fine and the clutch cavity coarse.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by TennsDog

I'm calling the one on the handle fine and the clutch cavity coarse.

OK.

If both are at max extension, some of the braided strands of the inner cable are broken and the cable has elongated.
It will not take much longer to snap.

Please, see these:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Replacing_the_clutch_cable

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Lubing_the_cables

The regular lubrication of the heads of the cable is frequently underestimated.
Braided steel cables can stand tremendous axial forces, but no much repetitive bending.
Bending is what happens each time you clutch in and out and those heads cannot rotate respect to their levers because there is no grease there.

[TennsDog]

I see the steps to replace the clutch cable involve removing the fuel tank, but I've also seen talk of having a spare on hand for a quick on-the-road fix if necessary. Is it possible to do the replacement without removing the fuel tank, or is that just less of a deal than it seems? I mean, I don't ride with anything to either catch any fuel or plug the fuel line.
Also, does a new clutch cable need to be lubricated immediately, or does it come good-to-go?

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by TennsDog

I see the steps to replace the clutch cable involve removing the fuel tank, but I've also seen talk of having a spare on hand for a quick on-the-road fix if necessary. Is it possible to do the replacement without removing the fuel tank, or is that just less of a deal than it seems? I mean, I don't ride with anything to either catch any fuel or plug the fuel line.
Also, does a new clutch cable need to be lubricated immediately, or does it come good-to-go?

If you use my/dirt bike trick by zip-tie the new one to the old til you need it, then no worries when the time comes.

I also use two small balloons one on each end to keep dirt and water out of the new cable til needed.

And I always lube the new cable before use. Lube it, and then use the balloons to seal it.

And thanks to the vacuum peacock, no need to worry about spilling a lot of fuel, at the most you'll lose a few drops, basically whatever is in the fuel line itself. Assuming the petcock is working properly, if you have fuel flow with the bike not running, then it time to order a new petcock.

Tip: if your replacing it, secure the new one to the old one, and then just simply pull the out one out, and the new one will follow the same routing, your using the old one like a snake, makes life a lot easier, and doesn't require removal of the fuel tank.