Front end squirrel - tire issue?

[wendyjboss]

I am wondering if it is time for a new front tire. The tread seems deep enough, although I haven't measured it, it just doesn't look "that" worn. However, I feel like it's a little squirrelly in the front end, especially on twists. I have new precision springs as of last year, so I don't think it's a suspension issue at all.

Possibly tires...wondering what other peeps experiences are with tires. I just put on a top case, but I think it's only a coincidence that the ride feel is different. I put on 2000 miles since I got the bike last year, and I think the previous owner said he had recently changed the back tire, but not the front.

[CaliGrrl]

The OEM tires that came on my bike were really squirrelly on the rain-grooves cut into freeways. My new tires are MUCH better. Mine weren't very worn, either, but they really ran around on some roads and I'm glad we replaced them.

So yeah, it might be worth putting on a new tire.

[csmith12]

Honestly, your mostly likely too tight on the bars. If it was fine before, and now it's not, the only thing that has changed is you. It is the beginning of the season ya know. Did you check your psi? I feel that is a somewhat insulting question at this point, but I have to ask to be on the safe side.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by wendyjboss

..........I just put on a top case, but I think it's only a coincidence that the ride feel is different.........

You may install a new tire just to see that the problem persists.

Top cases tend to induce steering inestability.
The more aft and high it is located, the more leverage the turbulence of air behind your body has to mess with the steering feeling.
Heavily loading the top case has a similar effect.

Just put the bike on both wheels and have somebody keeping the bike vertical.
Then, grab the top case and move it sideways and observe the effect on the handle bar.

Not all the bikes with a top case have that problem.
It also depends on the aerodynamics, geometry and load of the bike.

The problem becomes more severe when the bearings of the steering column are loose or worn.
Maybe lubricating and adjusting those and keeping a minimum weight in the case could reestablish the sense of stability.

[jkv45]

Check the date of manufacturer on the tire sidewall. It's 4 numbers in an oval like "3609". The first 2 are the week of manufacture (36th week) and the second are the last digits of the year (2009).

Generally figure 4 to 5 years on a cycle tire before replacement. Thread depth doesn't matter - meaning don't think just because it had decent tread depth it's ok - it's not.

Chances are it's time for replacement, but check the dates and make sure you are at the recommended pressures. Also run you hand back and forth over the tire to feel for any scalloping or uneven tread wear that could cause handling problems.

Do some research here before buying tires, don't just go with OEM replacements. There are better tires available for less.

[tfkrocks]

Another thing to check for is scalloping. If you see that the edge of a tread is way higher than the one next to it, you have some scalloping. That can cause undesirable handling from the front tire.

[wendyjboss]

Wow! Thanks everybody.

I think it is a combination of much of the above. It is a new riding season and I could be gripping a little too hard, and paying too much attention to it. Probably now that I'm riding more regularly again :dance cool: I will become more comfortable again and forget it.

The tires are older. They are the 46th week of 2010, but the tread is good. My friend said that there is no "scalloping", but that there is a little beginnings of dry rot, but the tire would make it through the season and then be shot.

I'm not sure if I'll change it out yet. Do I have to change the back when I change the front? The previous owner said he'd changed the rear tire, but not the front, so I assume it's generally okay to do so.

[RacinNinja]

Originally Posted by wendyjboss

Wow! Thanks everybody.

I think it is a combination of much of the above. It is a new riding season and I could be gripping a little too hard, and paying too much attention to it. Probably now that I'm riding more regularly again :dance cool: I will become more comfortable again and forget it.

The tires are older. They are the 46th week of 2010, but the tread is good. My friend said that there is no "scalloping", but that there is a little beginnings of dry rot, but the tire would make it through the season and then be shot.

I'm not sure if I'll change it out yet. Do I have to change the back when I change the front? The previous owner said he'd changed the rear tire, but not the front, so I assume it's generally okay to do so.

If there are cracks in the tire, it's time to change it.

If there are cracks in the rear tire or it has a similar date code, it would be best to buy a pair of tires instead of one.

[wendyjboss]

I will check the date on the rear tire .... the previous. owner said he had replace it and it looks pretty good.
Is it okay to mix either a Continental or even the Michelin PILOT ACTIV FRONT TIRE with whatever the old tire is. I'd like to stay under $100 but don't want to sacrifice quality. The factory specs on tires are 32 rear and 28 front .... will any tire that fits be in that psi range, eg 28?

[csmith12]

Mixing a matching tires is perfectly fine under the proper mindset. Your traction is maxed at the WEAKEST tire. Many of us here have no issue with with a radial front and a bias ply rear.

[Mohawk]

Only mix tyres of the same construction. Some of the newer tyres for mid range bikes are radial. Don't mix radial & cross/bias ply tyres on the same bike or car for that matter.

Other than that, certain profiles, can have a strange interaction at certain speeds combined with certain angles of lean, so may be great handling everywhere except in that weird interactive zone if you ever find it. I've used lots of different brand tyres over the years on different bikes without any weird effects. That said, each manufacturer has only ever tested their front/rear combo together, so YMMV.

I'd check two things, 1 the tyre pressures & 2 the head bearings on the bike, as these usually have adverse effects when they are low (tyres) or worn/lose (bearings).

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by wendyjboss

The tires are older. They are the 46th week of 2010, but the tread is good. My friend said that there is no "scalloping", but that there is a little beginnings of dry rot, but the tire would make it through the season and then be shot.

I'm not sure if I'll change it out yet. Do I have to change the back when I change the front? The previous owner said he'd changed the rear tire, but not the front, so I assume it's generally okay to do so.

Remember, tread depth is irrelevant if the tire is old or showing signs or drying out.

It's really not worth running poor tires. The cost to repair damage from a simple low-side drop or injury to yourself is 10x as expensive.

I feel strongly enough about it that I've replace brand new OEM cycle tires with 500 miles on them because I didn't think there were up to the task. I'm not talking about a high performance super sport either, just a normal daily driver.

["A"]

Pre-gen 250 really needs to have the rear end raised slightly for better front end stability.
I replaced the rear tire with taller profile 130/90-16 tire, the rear wheel barely spins when bike is parked on the centerstand, but front end stability is drastically improved.

Front end used to shake like crazy when I let go of the handlebars, after the rear tire replacement, much stable, riding with no-hands at speed end engine brake on result in no head-shake.

[toEleven]

Originally Posted by "A"

Pre-gen 250 really needs to have the rear end raised slightly for better front end stability.

Educate me, readers: raising the rear end should reduce rake and trail, which means less stability (/quicker turn in)...right?

[RacinNinja]

Originally Posted by toEleven

Educate me, readers: raising the rear end should reduce rake and trail, which means less stability (/quicker turn in)...right?

Up to a point, yes.

Stability is a rather ubiquitous term.

Quicker turn in, most definitely.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by wendyjboss

......The factory specs on tires are 32 rear and 28 front .... will any tire that fits be in that psi range, eg 28?

Yes, keep those values with any tire/size/brand.

Consider, however, that those values are the best guess that the manufacturer can make for very different weight of riders, temperature, road surfaces, type of riding, common speed, additional loads like passengers and heavy luggage, comfort and tire's life.

For your specific conditions, you can and should deviate from those values some (+/-2 psi at a time) until finding the optimum pressures.

Temperature of the carcasses right after a long trip can be your best indicator of the proper pressure for that ride, speed and carried weight.
It should not be cold or too hot to the bare hand.

Another good indicator is the pressure differential between the beginning and end of that long trip.
That differential should never be above 10 psi.

General recommendations are as follow:

• Touring long distances, in hot weather, with passenger or heavy luggage: increase 5 to 10 psi from manufacturer's recommendation or ideal pressure for normal riding front and rear.

• Traveling slowly in deep loose sand: decrease 5 to 10 psi from manufacturer's recommendation front and rear.

• Traveling on good dirt road with some rocky spots: decrease 15 to 20 psi from manufacturer's recommendation front and rear.

Please, read these links for the available tires for your bike and for the how to's:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Tires

[wendyjboss]

I am definitely more schooled after reading all these replies. Thank you so much!! I will try mucking in an intelligent way with the psi and also keep shopping for tires!