January 30th, 2016, 02:19 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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2014 Ninja 300 Track Build
I'm going to run in the Team ProMotion (TPM) Ninja 300 race series this season so my bike needs to be prepped.
Here's the evolution of my 2014 300 from street salvage to track. I've removed the street bodywork, added Arashi rear sets and Hotbodies MGP slip on and switched to GP-shift pattern to match my other track bike. I plan to put on track plastics if I can find a used set. I also want to do the ignition key delete and keyless gas cap as well as short folding levers. Does anyone know if the bolt circle pattern of the gas cap assembly is the same for a years? It looks the same just looking at photos but I could be wrong. Anyone have or know anyone that is selling track bodywork in any condition let me know.
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Track, track, track |
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February 1st, 2016, 01:51 PM | #2 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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I bought some used track plastics. Should arrive this week.
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Track, track, track |
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February 1st, 2016, 01:57 PM | #3 |
The Corner Whisperer
Name: Chris (aka Reactor)
Location: Northern KY
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much.
MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13
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Goal: Shake A Million Hands | Look through the corners | Track Day Prep | Closest track? | The Mid-Ohio School |
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February 1st, 2016, 04:22 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Bernawan
Location: Magelang, Indonesia
Join Date: Jun 2013 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2011 Posts: 71
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Gotta love that footpeg set
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February 1st, 2016, 05:08 PM | #5 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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Totally fugly but someone at the track had them and sold them to me pretty cheap. I wanted to ride so...going for the gold!
It's going to be pretty funny looking. The tank is black, the plastics are Kawi green, rearsets gold. I might just get a hot pink helmet to complete the look
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Track, track, track |
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February 1st, 2016, 05:17 PM | #6 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Bernawan
Location: Magelang, Indonesia
Join Date: Jun 2013 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2011 Posts: 71
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Quote:
Naaah, gold and kawi green will look just fine in my opinion, just need work on the gastank color though (repaint to kawi green I guess). |
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February 1st, 2016, 05:44 PM | #7 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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The black tank has a dent in it so maybe I'll look for a replacement in green.
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Track, track, track |
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February 2nd, 2016, 11:56 AM | #8 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Norm
Location: Vancouver, BC
Join Date: Aug 2014 Motorcycle(s): '10 Ninja 250 track bike, '06 Goldwing, '81 HD FXB Posts: 30
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Quote:
I just replaced my HB bodywork with a set from Flexi Glass. I had my tank bead blasted ($25), and shot the works with Dupli Color Grabber Green spray bombs. It's not a dead on match but it's pretty close - the fairing is Dupli Color, the fender is the HB (ignore the fibreglass dust on the rear of the fender):
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February 8th, 2016, 10:25 PM | #9 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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Yeah, my body work is Hotbodies. Both sets arrived today in a huge box. Planning to put them on tomorrow.
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Track, track, track |
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February 10th, 2016, 07:56 PM | #10 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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Body work test fitted.
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Track, track, track |
1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
February 16th, 2016, 08:03 PM | #11 |
ninjette.org member
Name: David
Location: Roseville, CA
Join Date: Jun 2013 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300 Posts: 30
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Nice to see those going to good use
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David A. Seyl, Owner Feel Like A Pro, LLC |
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February 16th, 2016, 08:12 PM | #12 |
ninjette.org member
Name: El Jefe
Location: ....
Join Date: Oct 2015 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki 636 Posts: 66
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I shall see you on the grid
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February 16th, 2016, 08:44 PM | #13 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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Heck yeah. First track day in three weeks in North Carolina to break her in. I won't get to race it until April or May.
Thanks again!
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Track, track, track |
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February 16th, 2016, 08:44 PM | #14 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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Track, track, track |
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March 13th, 2016, 11:20 AM | #15 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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On track at NCBike
First time on track with the Ninja 300. I came away with mixed feelings. It felt sloooooow but in reality I was only 5 seconds a lap slower than on the 750. I don't think that's too significant though since I suck on the 750. Lol
I had a few issues with the Ninja. First the Metzelers that I mounted were past their prime. The rear was sliding around. It would step out every time my knee touched. Second was the front end was hopping around real hard in fast turns. Tried to push through it but thought better of it. The last issue which is all me and my inexperience on the 300 was that I hit the rev-limiter almost all the time.
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Track, track, track |
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March 14th, 2016, 03:49 PM | #16 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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Are you going to Summit on 3/26?
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Track, track, track |
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March 16th, 2016, 04:06 PM | #17 |
ninjette.org member
Name: El Jefe
Location: ....
Join Date: Oct 2015 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki 636 Posts: 66
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March 16th, 2016, 07:12 PM | #18 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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Hit me on fb. My GSXR shock arrived today. Going to see if I have time to install it tomorrow.
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Track, track, track |
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March 19th, 2016, 08:48 PM | #19 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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GSXR Shock Install
Pics of the GSXR shock install. It took me about two hours. All of the nuts, bolts and washers were purchased at Lowe's. The bolts are M12-1.75x120. The nuts are nylock style.
Pic 1: The 2006-2007 GSXR 600/750 shock. Remove the top mount if it's still mounted. You must drill out the top and bottom mounting holes of the shock using either a 12mm or 15/32" bit. Pic 2: These are the tools that I used to drill the shock, cut the plastic undertail above the shock and to grind away the inner surface of the lower shock mount. Pic 3: This is a Dewalt 15/32" bit that I got from Lowe's. About $10. Drill the top shock mount hole first while the bit is still new and sharp. Use a lubricant when drilling metal. I had some anti-seize handy so that's what I used. Drill part way through from one side then flip the shock and drill from the other side. Do the same for the bottom. Once you've drilled through run the drill in and out of the holes and wiggle the drill around a little to open the holes up a fraction more especially if you used the 15/32" rather than a 12mm. Test fit your bolts to make sure they slide in easily. Pic 4: Before you get to the drilling, grinding and pounding put on some gloves and safety glasses. Don't be a dummy. Pic 5 & 6: The bike set up on stands. The front of my bike is held up by a triple tree stand (not pictured) so it's really steady. The bricks are unnecessary. The jack under the pan is to steady the bike for when you're ready to take out the old shock and put in the new shock. You have to drop the rear tire and swing arm to get the shock in there. To do that you just lift the handle of the rear stand. Pic 7: Before you do that though you have to remove the frame plugs so you can access the top shock nut/bolt. 17mm bolt, 19mm nut for top and bottom and for the dogbones. Pic 8: You can get the old shock out pretty easily but to get the GSXR shock with the gas reservoir in you'll need to cut the plastic cover away along the red line. I was able to do it without removing it using a Dremel (rotary tool) with a router-type/Roto-Zip-type bit. It was the worst part of the job because of the mess of plastic debris. It really only took a few minutes. Pic 9 & 10: Measurement of the lower shock mount arm. This is the dimension that you have to grind the GSXR shock bottom out to. Pic 11 & 12: The measurements of the lower GSXR shock mount yoke before and after grinding. More to follow.
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Track, track, track Last futzed with by Mike K; March 20th, 2016 at 12:17 AM. |
1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
March 19th, 2016, 08:58 PM | #20 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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Continued:
Pic 13 & 14: The installed shock. To get the GSXR shock in you have to drop the rear wheel and swing arm. It doesn't drop right in. You have to get the right angle and finesse it a bit. The top of the shock will hit the plastic but you don't need to cut away any more than I did. Once you have it in just about the right spot just whack the top of the shock a few times with your hand. The plastic pushes up enough to let the shock drop in. I put the top shock bolt in first then the bottom. You may have to move the bike up or down with the jack to line up the holes. Same goes for the dogbones. If you have to use a lot of force you are not lined up properly. Space out the dogbones using washers as spacers. The GSXR spring is a larger diameter so you have to space the dogbones out some. I used lock nuts throughout. If you don't then I'd suggest some locktite. Overall I'd say that if you can change your own oil without ending up in the hospital then you can do this conversion. Just be smart and keep safety in mind. Make sure that the bike is stable. You're laying on the ground next to it for most of this. If it falls on you it will hurt. Summit Point here I come!!
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Track, track, track |
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March 20th, 2016, 08:42 AM | #21 | |
Track Clown
Name: Chris
Location: Kingman, AZ
Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): '08 250R, 21 MV F3 800, Kawasaki 400 build Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Sep '15
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Quote:
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March 20th, 2016, 08:58 AM | #22 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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Quote:
What is the power band on the 300?
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Track, track, track |
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March 20th, 2016, 09:17 AM | #23 |
The Corner Whisperer
Name: Chris (aka Reactor)
Location: Northern KY
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much.
MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13
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Goal: Shake A Million Hands | Look through the corners | Track Day Prep | Closest track? | The Mid-Ohio School |
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March 20th, 2016, 12:17 PM | #24 |
Track Clown
Name: Chris
Location: Kingman, AZ
Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): '08 250R, 21 MV F3 800, Kawasaki 400 build Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Sep '15
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unless your in 5th gear, go a gear higher. as you lean over the radius of the tire gets smaller, therefore the revs get higher.
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March 27th, 2016, 09:13 AM | #25 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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I ran the 300 at Summit yesterday. The transformation was startling. The bike is so much smoother. I didn't notice any front wheel hop or shuddering. I don't know if that's a function of the track surface being much less grippy at Summit versus NCBike but the rear felt pretty planted. I don't really go fast enough to really test it but to me it felt much more settled in that I wasn't fighting the bike, I was just riding.
All in all a very worthwhile conversion that costs so little and takes just a few hours to do. Next I might go for RaceTech springs and emulators WITHOUT removing the forks.
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Track, track, track |
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March 27th, 2016, 09:19 AM | #26 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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As for the bike feeling under powered I was much more conscious of keeping the revs in the powerband and shifting a lot. I still coast too much and use the brakes too often but I remembered why I liked riding my old 250 so much. Nobody passes you on the infield. I was weaving through traffic and only getting passed on the straights-- front straight, between T1 and T2 and between T9 and T10. It was fun.
I think that I'm going to concentrate riding the 300 for the beginning of the season. I really do still suck and should be going much faster by now. The 300 forces me to be smooth and consistent which I'm not and to go deeper and carry more speed which I don't. Those things are slowing me down and keeping me from making the next step.
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Track, track, track |
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March 30th, 2016, 05:14 PM | #27 |
Slower than you.
Name: toEleven
Location: NoVA
Join Date: Oct 2015 Motorcycle(s): CBR600RR, CB750, EX300 (半蔵) Posts: 667
MOTM - May '16
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Why not remove the forks? It's not any more involved than the rear conversion you've already done.
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DISCLAIMERv1.0: There may be more info on the topic than this forum post. Conduct your own research. If another thread is linked or quoted, go read it yourself. |
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March 30th, 2016, 06:50 PM | #28 |
ninjette.org member
Name: K
Location: VA
Join Date: Feb 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300 Posts: 17
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March 30th, 2016, 07:39 PM | #29 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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Quote:
Exactly. I'm just doing springs and emulators so there's no reason to go to the extra and unnecessary work to take off the forks.
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Track, track, track |
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March 31st, 2016, 07:01 AM | #30 | |
EX500 full of EX250 parts
Name: Bill
Location: Grand Rapids-ish, MI
Join Date: Jul 2012 Motorcycle(s): '18 Ninja 400 • '09 Ninja 500R (selling) • '98 VFR800 (project) • '85 Vulcan VN700 (sold) Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 1
MOTM - Aug '15
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Quote:
Intiminators don't require drilling out the damper rods due to the thinner oil they use, though you may still want to, just to make sure the stock parts aren't interfering in any way. I haven't yet, but plan to when I service the forks and have them apart. For springs, there's no reason to take the forks off/apart though. I think it took me longer to do the preload math than it did to actually swap my fork springs.
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*** Unregistered, I'm not your mom and I'm not paying for your parts, so do whatever you want with your own bike. *** |
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March 31st, 2016, 08:21 AM | #31 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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Damn, I forgot about having to drill the damper rods.
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Track, track, track |
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March 31st, 2016, 09:53 AM | #32 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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I've been reading on the Intimators. A little more expensive but proportionally higher level of technology.
Anyone know the size of the forks on a 2014 300? My bike isn't stored here.
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Track, track, track |
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March 31st, 2016, 04:45 PM | #33 |
Slower than you.
Name: toEleven
Location: NoVA
Join Date: Oct 2015 Motorcycle(s): CBR600RR, CB750, EX300 (半蔵) Posts: 667
MOTM - May '16
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Beat me to it, but springs and emulators also mean changing the fork oil to a different weight in most cases.
Attached photos for rough 300 fork tube size. Side note: the 250 sized intiminators fit my forks without issue, but I haven't had a chance to do any real running on them since the winter build. Hilariously/depressingly sidelined for other reasons. Also, Sonic Springs are cheaper, if that's a concern for you. They also come with extra washers and preload spacer material, which is nice of them.
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DISCLAIMERv1.0: There may be more info on the topic than this forum post. Conduct your own research. If another thread is linked or quoted, go read it yourself. |
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March 31st, 2016, 05:20 PM | #34 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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Thanks ToEleven. Looks like I'll go the Intimator route. I'll check out Sonic Springs too. Thanks for the tip. I have an oil suction system that should take care of things.I'll use that to suck it out, spray in some cleaner, cycle the forks and suck the residue out.
I love how the bike handled with just the change to the GSXR shock and spring. This should really make it handle sweet.
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Track, track, track |
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March 31st, 2016, 05:53 PM | #35 |
Freedom for Germany
Location: This World
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R-FI Posts: A lot.
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Mike if you go the Intiminator-Route you should read on SVRider http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=100825
And this is from Ninja 250 Riders Club http://forums.ninja250.org/viewtopic.php?p=792168 Note: "My findings are, most daily street riders felt it's a great product, but full time racer felt the GVE is better." |
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March 31st, 2016, 08:59 PM | #36 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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Quote:
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Track, track, track |
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March 31st, 2016, 11:21 PM | #37 | |
Freedom for Germany
Location: This World
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R-FI Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
And as the first before talking more about this, if you need them for a race bike then buy them only here: https://www.spearsenterprises.com/ - there you get them race-ready, Ricor by themselves sells the normal street-version. When you go this route then it is very important to start with the Intiminators only and DO NOT change the spring before you'd ride your bike!!! Please let me add the following that after I'd read so many about suspension setup on motorcycles (before I only did cars and never touched a motorcycle), I found out the best way for me to go with was the FEGV's since there is more chance to adjust them like I want them. And let me advice the following to you: Don't rely too much on the recommendations from others - everybody likes it different. Those guys have bought a product and from that moment on (the time one spend his money) this product is the best and everything else will not be the same level of quality. I did what was recommended on all those websites and at least ended up with not the best possible setup, my oil-weight was too high since everybody recommended 15W. So to make the story short, my setup was better than oem but a compromise only until I'd meet a guy who did more than 20 years of setting up the suspension from Kwaki-Racebikes. He took my bike for a testride and after that made a what I can say professional setup with 10W-Oil and many changes and what's important to say, a not too stiff spring (that's what everybody in the web is talking about and recommending since I guess the knowledge must be limited to that part only). About springs please read here: http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/springs.htm Note: "The correct spring is the softest spring available, that is able to support the bike and rider under the hardest of braking/accelerating while still leaving some room for the system to travel if a bumb is encountered in this state." So please read on as many websites as you can (not for Ninjettes only!), look for a real expert and tell him what you want - than you'll get what you want and need (and yes, it will cost some money, but it's worth it). |
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April 3rd, 2016, 01:23 PM | #38 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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After either Dominion or NCBike I'll decide which way to go.
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Track, track, track |
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April 23rd, 2016, 10:39 AM | #39 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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Latest work on the 300: I put a brake lever protector on the throttle side before Summit. Last week I removed the dash surround and made a mount for the dash that is lower and deeper so that the panel doesn't interfere with the front brake lines. I just got a gear indicator yesterday. I'll fit it either today or tomorrow. Last two things on the list are forks as previously discussed and deciding whether or not to remove the ABS system. I'll decide on both after NCBike next weekend.
I'll post pics of the latest mods tomorrow.
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Track, track, track |
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April 25th, 2016, 10:18 PM | #40 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Mike
Location: NJ
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 Ninja 300 track bike, 2007 Suzuki GSXR 750 track bike, 2002 Yamaha R6, 1995 CBR600RR f3 track bike Posts: 304
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Pic 1 & 2: The instrument panel removed from the dash surround and mounted to the front framework.
Pic 3: The simple handmade mounting brackets. Made with a hacksaw, pliers and drill. Easy. Pic 4: The bar end brake lever guard. I had to get two different kinds to find one that fits the Woodcraft clipons. Not all 7/8" bars have the same ID. Woodcraft bars are thicker. Pic 5: The all-important camera mount.
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Track, track, track |
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