Grinding Noise!!!

mlj2093 · February 16th, 2013, 09:08 AM

As i was riding home today I noticed a grinding noise whenever I decelerated. My 250 is my only means of transportation so with any luck I can fix this ASAP. Any ideas on what it could be?

Alex · February 16th, 2013, 09:25 AM

Need to narrow it down a bit. Does it still make the noise when the clutch lever is pulled in? Is the noise consistent with road speed, or engine speed?

With no information, my two guesses are a rusty non-lubed chain, or brake pads that have worn to the metal.

Motofool · February 16th, 2013, 09:31 AM

Welcome to the site, Matt !!!

If your chain has much slack, it could drag over the swingarm when the tension from the engine is not pulling the upper potion of the chain's loop.

Yes, we would love having more information about the problem.

krolinked · February 16th, 2013, 09:37 AM

I also think it could be the chain. maybe too much slack and its hitting the inside of the sprocket cover on deceleration.

mlj2093 · February 16th, 2013, 09:53 AM

It does still happen when the clutch is in. It sounds like it is coming from beneath me while riding.

mgentz · February 16th, 2013, 03:33 PM

going out on a limb here....

cam chain. tension is loose.

Motofool · February 16th, 2013, 07:19 PM

Too narrow now.......

lgk · February 16th, 2013, 07:42 PM

hows your brakes?

allanoue · February 16th, 2013, 07:49 PM

when does it start and when does it stop

mlj2093 · February 20th, 2013, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lgk

hows your brakes?

I need to replace the brakes. The pads aren't completely worn but the rotors are grooved.

Quote:

Originally Posted by allanoue

when does it start and when does it stop

It starts when I release the throttle completely. It stops when accelerating or when I stop.

lgk · February 20th, 2013, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlj2093

I need to replace the brakes. The pads aren't completely worn but the rotors are grooved.

It starts when I release the throttle completely. It stops when accelerating or when I stop.

can you take some pics of the brakes and chain?

csmith12 · February 20th, 2013, 10:55 AM

Couple of guesses;

Did you adjust the chain slack, remove rear the wheel or change wheel alignment recently? You basically want to check for chain/sprocket alignment too.

Clean and lube your chain and go for a test ride. If it's gone then ride on, if it comes back in less than 200 miles, it's time for a new chain.

mlj2093 · February 20th, 2013, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by csmith12

Couple of guesses;

Did you adjust the chain slack, remove rear the wheel or change wheel alignment recently? You basically want to check for chain/sprocket alignment too.

Clean and lube your chain and go for a test ride. If it's gone then ride on, if it comes back in less than 200 miles, it's time for a new chain.

I haven't done any of those recently but my chain hasn't been cleaned in a while. However, I've got new tires chain and sprockets that are going on this weekend.

mlj2093 · February 20th, 2013, 11:44 AM

tried to upload pics but it isn't letting me.

lgk · February 20th, 2013, 11:51 AM

maybe you need to resize them

csmith12 · February 20th, 2013, 11:56 AM

I bet your new chain and sprocks will solve your issue. I had a similar sound on my 92 250, only really noticeable on decel.

Oh and I am the KING of chain neglect hahahahaha. Check the chain in the pic below. Yea.... that is rust.

mlj2093 · February 20th, 2013, 11:56 AM

Chain.jpg

Chain 2.jpg

Back Rotor.jpg

Front Rotor.jpg

Here they are. Rough I know.

mlj2093 · February 20th, 2013, 11:58 AM

On a different note. Does anyone know where I can get rotors that won't cost me an arm and a leg?

csmith12 · February 20th, 2013, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlj2093

Attachment 23173

Tighten that up STAT!!!!! If it maxes out your adjusters then time for a new chain bro.

DO NOT ride it like that.

lgk · February 20th, 2013, 12:17 PM

the grinding sound is a combo of your brake pads being worn and the chain smacking the guide.

that chain is way too loose, it only supposed to have like 1inch of play looks like over 4...

mlj2093 · February 20th, 2013, 12:27 PM

Is there an easy way to tighten it on the fly? I'm currently at work.

csmith12 · February 20th, 2013, 12:32 PM

Nope, take it easy on your way home and it should be uneventful.

mlj2093 · February 20th, 2013, 12:55 PM

Will do. Thanks for all the help. I'll update when I've got everything switched out. Hopefully it solves it.

Alex · February 20th, 2013, 01:10 PM

Chain looks incredibly loose, and the second picture makes it look rusty as well. New chain & sprockets will likely fix the noise. Grooves on a brake disk aren't that rare, but your disk does look a little strange, with that large groove near the outside, and quite a bit of rust on the inside. Typically that all gets knocked off after some use, even if the pad isn't hitting directly (I assume from the heat).

DaBlue1 · February 20th, 2013, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlj2093

On a different note. Does anyone know where I can get rotors that won't cost me an arm and a leg?

From the looks of those pics you have no pad left on the rear and the front is not to far behind. the grinding you are hearing is probably metal to metal on the rotors. You need to get pads and rotors.

I got a set of Galfer Brake Rotors.

They appear of very good quality and look better than OEM. Will post a review when I get them installed. My rotors have over 22,000 miles and just barely with in spec. I ordered them from

HardRacing.com - 704-799-2192
264 Rolling Hill Rd.
Mooresville, NC 28117 U.S.A.

OHLINS Premier Dealer_Great Prices, Tech.Support, Full Staff of Sales Reps, Fast WORLD WIDE Shipping,
Large Inventory and Excellent Customer Service.

If you call ask for Leonard and tell him you want the best deal on The Galfer Solid Mount Wave Rotors for the Ninja 250 DF203w Front & DF204 Rear. Let him know you heard about them from the forum. He should be able to do $159.00 on the front and $109.00 on the rear rotors.

You may also want to get a Digital Thickness Gauge so you can keep track of the thickness of the rotors. (See the attachment for brake disc specs.)

DaBlue1 · February 20th, 2013, 01:45 PM

Can you post up another couple of pics of the brakes?

Alex · February 20th, 2013, 01:56 PM

Good call! Looking at the rear rotor, that looks ominous. Can you grab a picture from directly behind the bike, that could show how wide the rotor is? From the angle of the current pic, it looks like it has been worn down to paper-thin already from the metal to metal contact.

mlj2093 · February 20th, 2013, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by csmith12

Tighten that up STAT!!!!! If it maxes out your adjusters then time for a new chain bro.

DO NOT ride it like that.

Can the chain be adjusted with out being on a stand? I currently don't have one at my disposal.

mlj2093 · February 20th, 2013, 02:35 PM

I'll get more pics up as soon as I can. I was hoping to be able to get the rotors for a total of $200 at most I don't have a whole lot of expendable cash with the tires and everything else I just bought. any suggestions?

csmith12 · February 20th, 2013, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlj2093

Can the chain be adjusted with out being on a stand? I currently don't have one at my disposal.

Sure, loosen the axle nut then you can use the alignment marks on the swingarm as you tighten the adjuster bolts. It's not perfect but will be a safer alternative to riding with 4'' of chain slack.

When you have it all apart doing the brakes and chain replacement. Do the string alignment to get it all set. Then make a mental note if your swingarm marks are off. Once you know how far off they are (if any), then you will not have to do the string alignment ever again. Nobody, does the string alignment stuff in the track pits when changing a tire. We use the marks and roll on.

csmith12 · February 20th, 2013, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlj2093

I'll get more pics up as soon as I can. I was hoping to be able to get the rotors for a total of $200 at most I don't have a whole lot of expendable cash with the tires and everything else I just bought. any suggestions?

ebay

DaBlue1 · February 20th, 2013, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlj2093

Can the chain be adjusted with out being on a stand? I currently don't have one at my disposal.

It can, but your chain really needs some TLC before you adjust it. You need to take off the rear wheel and scrub and soak that bad boy in some 80w-90 gear oil. (about $3-$4 a quart -a little goes along way)
If you have kinks in that chain and do not adjust it properly it will sound funny and may bind.

alex.s · February 20th, 2013, 02:55 PM

must be the rear drum brake.

Lychee · February 20th, 2013, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlj2093

I'll get more pics up as soon as I can. I was hoping to be able to get the rotors for a total of $200 at most I don't have a whole lot of expendable cash with the tires and everything else I just bought. any suggestions?

Don't ride for the next week or two and use the saved gas money to buy the necessary parts.

DaBlue1 · February 20th, 2013, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlj2093

....I was hoping to be able to get the rotors for a total of $200 at most I don't have a whole lot of expendable cash with the tires and everything else I just bought. any suggestions?

That's understandable. Keep in mind that some parts sold on ebay may not be high quality and many may be used. Brakes are something you don't want to skimp too much on.

These rotors fit the 250, however I can not say how good they are, i do know that the front rotor is larger than OEM and comes with an adapter plate to mount your OEM calipers on. They should be under your $200 dollar budget, also you will have to get new pads.

Front Brake Disc Rotor For Kawasaki NINJA 250 R 2008-2012 ZX250 2008-2012 Black

Rear Brake Disc Rotor Kawasaki NINJA 250 R 2008-2012 ZX250 2008-2012

mlj2093 · February 20th, 2013, 03:09 PM

DSCF3224.jpg

DSCF3225.jpg

DSCF3226.jpg

DSCF3227.jpg

DSCF3228.jpg

DSCF3229.jpg

DSCF3230.jpg

Here are the pics of the brakes. If you need more/different angles I can get them.

mlj2093 · February 20th, 2013, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lychee

Don't ride for the next week or two and use the saved gas money to buy the necessary parts.

I would but its my only transportation

DaBlue1 · February 20th, 2013, 03:20 PM

Holy S$%^&*!

That's awful and extremely dangerous! You really need to ground your the bike!
Take care of those brakes ASAP! You may be able to get by with the chain for a little while longer if it is only surface rust (pray that it is). Your focus really needs to be on your brakes. You are metal to metal on both brakes. The rear rotors are so sharp you can cut meat with it!

To be honest, the rear caliper piston may give you a problem from the looks of it. You are just a few millimeters from having the caliper grounded by the rotor.
If this is your daily driver, your are an accident that's going (not waiting) to happen. You may be able to stop the bike today but tomorrow it may stop you. Please don't become a statistic.

mlj2093 · February 20th, 2013, 03:27 PM

I will get the rotors and pads tonight and have it all fixed as soon as I can. I've got a new chain already as well.

csmith12 · February 20th, 2013, 03:27 PM

Dayyyuuuuummmmm!!!!!!

February 16th, 2013, 09:08 AM	#1
mlj2093 ninjette.org member Name: Matt Location: Norfolk, VA Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Kawi 250 SE Posts: 105	Grinding Noise!!! As i was riding home today I noticed a grinding noise whenever I decelerated. My 250 is my only means of transportation so with any luck I can fix this ASAP. Any ideas on what it could be?

February 16th, 2013, 09:25 AM	#2
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	Need to narrow it down a bit. Does it still make the noise when the clutch lever is pulled in? Is the noise consistent with road speed, or engine speed? With no information, my two guesses are a rusty non-lubed chain, or brake pads that have worn to the metal. __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

February 16th, 2013, 09:31 AM	#3
Motofool Daily Ninjette rider Name: Hernan Location: Florida Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot. MOTY - 2016, MOTM - Dec '12, Jan '14, Jan '15, May '16	Welcome to the site, Matt !!! If your chain has much slack, it could drag over the swingarm when the tension from the engine is not pulling the upper potion of the chain's loop. Yes, we would love having more information about the problem. __________________________________________________ *Motofool* *.................................Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly* "Mankind is composed of two sorts of men — those who love and create, and those who hate and destroy. Love is the bond between men, the way to teach and the center of the world." - José Martí

February 16th, 2013, 09:37 AM	#4
krolinked Nerd Name: Chris Location: Tujunga Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ducati Hyperstrada Posts: 672	I also think it could be the chain. maybe too much slack and its hitting the inside of the sprocket cover on deceleration. __________________________________________________ It doesn't LOOK that steep. But you can go first...

February 16th, 2013, 07:19 PM	#7
Motofool Daily Ninjette rider Name: Hernan Location: Florida Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot. MOTY - 2016, MOTM - Dec '12, Jan '14, Jan '15, May '16	Too narrow now....... __________________________________________________ *Motofool* *.................................Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly* "Mankind is composed of two sorts of men — those who love and create, and those who hate and destroy. Love is the bond between men, the way to teach and the center of the world." - José Martí

February 16th, 2013, 09:53 AM	#5
mlj2093 ninjette.org member Name: Matt Location: Norfolk, VA Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Kawi 250 SE Posts: 105	It does still happen when the clutch is in. It sounds like it is coming from beneath me while riding.

February 16th, 2013, 03:33 PM	#6
mgentz Board Member Name: ... Location: WI Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): 250R (street), 250R (dirt) Posts: A lot.	going out on a limb here.... cam chain. tension is loose.

February 16th, 2013, 07:42 PM	#8
lgk ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Jason Location: Norfolk, VA Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 EX250, 2014 EX300 Posts: A lot.	hows your brakes? __________________________________________________ Ethioknight Memorial Fund- Sticker sale http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=111700

February 16th, 2013, 07:49 PM	#9
allanoue ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Al Location: York, Pa Join Date: Dec 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja 300..............2008 Ninja 500-sold...2009 Ninja 250-Crashed Posts: Too much. MOTM - Sep '14	when does it start and when does it stop

February 20th, 2013, 10:55 AM	#12
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	Couple of guesses; Did you adjust the chain slack, remove rear the wheel or change wheel alignment recently? You basically want to check for chain/sprocket alignment too. Clean and lube your chain and go for a test ride. If it's gone then ride on, if it comes back in less than 200 miles, it's time for a new chain. __________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School

February 20th, 2013, 11:44 AM	#14
mlj2093 ninjette.org member Name: Matt Location: Norfolk, VA Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Kawi 250 SE Posts: 105	tried to upload pics but it isn't letting me.

February 20th, 2013, 11:51 AM	#15
lgk ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Jason Location: Norfolk, VA Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 EX250, 2014 EX300 Posts: A lot.	maybe you need to resize them __________________________________________________ Ethioknight Memorial Fund- Sticker sale http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=111700

February 20th, 2013, 11:56 AM	#16
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	I bet your new chain and sprocks will solve your issue. I had a similar sound on my 92 250, only really noticeable on decel. Oh and I am the KING of chain neglect hahahahaha. Check the chain in the pic below. Yea.... that is rust. __________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School

February 20th, 2013, 11:58 AM	#18
mlj2093 ninjette.org member Name: Matt Location: Norfolk, VA Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Kawi 250 SE Posts: 105	On a different note. Does anyone know where I can get rotors that won't cost me an arm and a leg?

February 20th, 2013, 12:17 PM	#20
lgk ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Jason Location: Norfolk, VA Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 EX250, 2014 EX300 Posts: A lot.	the grinding sound is a combo of your brake pads being worn and the chain smacking the guide. that chain is way too loose, it only supposed to have like 1inch of play looks like over 4... __________________________________________________ Ethioknight Memorial Fund- Sticker sale http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=111700

February 20th, 2013, 12:27 PM	#21
mlj2093 ninjette.org member Name: Matt Location: Norfolk, VA Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Kawi 250 SE Posts: 105	Is there an easy way to tighten it on the fly? I'm currently at work.

February 20th, 2013, 12:32 PM	#22
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	Nope, take it easy on your way home and it should be uneventful. __________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School

February 20th, 2013, 12:55 PM	#23
mlj2093 ninjette.org member Name: Matt Location: Norfolk, VA Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Kawi 250 SE Posts: 105	Will do. Thanks for all the help. I'll update when I've got everything switched out. Hopefully it solves it.

February 20th, 2013, 01:10 PM	#24
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	Chain looks incredibly loose, and the second picture makes it look rusty as well. New chain & sprockets will likely fix the noise. Grooves on a brake disk aren't that rare, but your disk does look a little strange, with that large groove near the outside, and quite a bit of rust on the inside. Typically that all gets knocked off after some use, even if the pad isn't hitting directly (I assume from the heat). __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

February 20th, 2013, 01:45 PM	#26
DaBlue1 Long Time Rider Name: Blue Location: Charlotte, NC Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.	Can you post up another couple of pics of the brakes?

February 20th, 2013, 01:56 PM	#27
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	Good call! Looking at the rear rotor, that looks ominous. Can you grab a picture from directly behind the bike, that could show how wide the rotor is? From the angle of the current pic, it looks like it has been worn down to paper-thin already from the metal to metal contact. __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

February 20th, 2013, 02:35 PM	#29
mlj2093 ninjette.org member Name: Matt Location: Norfolk, VA Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Kawi 250 SE Posts: 105	I'll get more pics up as soon as I can. I was hoping to be able to get the rotors for a total of $200 at most I don't have a whole lot of expendable cash with the tires and everything else I just bought. any suggestions?

February 20th, 2013, 02:55 PM	#33
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	must be the rear drum brake. __________________________________________________
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

February 20th, 2013, 03:09 PM	#36
mlj2093 ninjette.org member Name: Matt Location: Norfolk, VA Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Kawi 250 SE Posts: 105	DSCF3224.jpg DSCF3225.jpg DSCF3226.jpg DSCF3227.jpg DSCF3228.jpg DSCF3229.jpg DSCF3230.jpg Here are the pics of the brakes. If you need more/different angles I can get them.

February 20th, 2013, 03:20 PM	#38
DaBlue1 Long Time Rider Name: Blue Location: Charlotte, NC Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.	Holy S$%^&! That's awful and extremely dangerous! You really need to ground your the bike! Take care of those brakes ASAP!* You may be able to get by with the chain for a little while longer if it is only surface rust (pray that it is). Your focus really needs to be on your brakes. You are metal to metal on both brakes. The rear rotors are so sharp you can cut meat with it! To be honest, the rear caliper piston may give you a problem from the looks of it. You are just a few millimeters from having the caliper grounded by the rotor. If this is your daily driver, your are an accident that's going (not waiting) to happen. You may be able to stop the bike today but tomorrow it may stop you. Please don't become a statistic.
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

February 20th, 2013, 03:27 PM	#39
mlj2093 ninjette.org member Name: Matt Location: Norfolk, VA Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Kawi 250 SE Posts: 105	I will get the rotors and pads tonight and have it all fixed as soon as I can. I've got a new chain already as well.

February 20th, 2013, 03:27 PM	#40
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	Dayyyuuuuummmmm!!!!!! __________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School

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