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Old April 18th, 2021, 05:29 PM   #1
PJW
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Name: Patrick
Location: Canada
Join Date: Apr 2021

Motorcycle(s): 2005 Kawasaki 250 ZZR

Posts: 6
I ride a Harley

But I hope I'm not a stereotypical Harley dude. My wife wants to ride so we just bought a 2005 ZZR 250 for her to learn on. I'm mostly here for the technical stuff as I have to get the bike running after the PO put it in storage for two years. It fired up after we did the basics but it isn't revving from idle so I have to look at the carbs and replace the battery. It's pretty tight in there under the seat, not what I'm used to with my other bikes, but I'll get there. I already know I hate the airbox. Is an upgrade to K&Ns or similar worth it?

Edit: And to be clear, we may see this bike as a "starter", we mean no insult, and my daughter is also eyeing it up rather a lot so we may be a 250 Ninja family for a while.

Last futzed with by PJW; April 18th, 2021 at 05:58 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old April 18th, 2021, 05:36 PM   #2
CaliGrrl
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Old April 18th, 2021, 05:42 PM   #3
Snake
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Old April 18th, 2021, 07:10 PM   #4
Tygermouse
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Name: Tanya
Location: 12093 214th street
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Motorcycle(s): 2005 kawasaki 250 zzr

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I'm the wife of the Harley dude. After years of riding on the back of the bike I have decided I need my own. So I have a bike (Kawasaki ZZR 250) now I need to learn how to ride.
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Old April 18th, 2021, 07:28 PM   #5
Triple Jim
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Location: North Central North Carolina
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Hi Patrick, welcome! I'll get @ducatiman fill you in on things like carbs and airboxes. Generally the carbs are way more involved to get right than most, and modifying the intake system opens a big can of worms that you probably don't want open.

I don't know if the ZZR has the same airbox as my '05 Ninja, but if so you can cut the battery box off the airbox and make it 100 times easier to work on the carbs. https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Batter...r_carb_removal
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Old April 19th, 2021, 06:45 AM   #6
SibSerge
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Name: Sergey
Location: Ontario, GTA
Join Date: Oct 2019

Motorcycle(s): Ninja ZZR250 (EX250H)

Posts: 204
To add to what Jim mentioned cutting the battery box off the airbox helps tremendously. After doing this mod I was even able to replace rubber boots on the airbox without taking the airbox out. Check the rubber hose coming from the crankcase to the airbox. This was pretty hard on mine after that many years. If it does not seal of not connected at all as it was in my case (when they are hard and someone moves the airbox around they just fall off) it creates an air leak.


I would suggest to keep the fuel components stock. Keep in mind this is not exactly the same bike as Ninja 250r. It has different size jets and if you modify it like 250 for example shim the needles it might become worse.

Otherwise the bike is pretty good even post novice. I was thinking the same as you when I got mine but now after adding a top box, fixing few things and updating the suspension I want to keep it for a bit. It's absolutely great for city/80km/h highways. 100km/h are ok and I can keep up with the traffic around toronto well in generaal (they like driving at 120km/h here). Overtaking does take some planning, however.

Keep in mind that the first thing you should do after making it running is to make sure the springs in the front do match the weight of the rider. It will make the world of difference. I am 195lb and the stock front springs were too soft. I was bottoming it out pretty frequently as it turned out. I noticed that you got it for your wife and she is likely ok with the stock and you might need to go lighter but that's one area I would recommend checking.
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Old April 19th, 2021, 06:57 AM   #7
csmith12
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Old April 19th, 2021, 07:09 AM   #8
ducatiman
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"cut the battery box off the airbox and make it 100 times easier to work on the carbs. https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Batter...r_carb_removal"

I've done similar to 1 of my Ducati's. The reward? Effortless, 10 minute carb removal.

Agreed, suggest to leave the (modded) airbox and factory spec jetting for a truly rider friendly 250.
Suggest to have carb "consumables" (orings and float valves) *on hand* before any removal. Bowl/pilot screw oring replacement is mandatory.
If present, drill the EPA caps on pilot screws to enable removal (with spring, washer and oring)
After emulsion tube removal, be especially careful to account for both small needle jets which frequently "disappear" (under the workbench).

After your chosen cleaning process (which hopefully includes aggressive compressed air), a wet test (pic) suggested to verify fuel levels and float valve integrity.
Followed with a bench synch. Reset the pilot screws (spring/washer with new orings) to 2 1/2 turns.

Also suggest opening the petcock, cleaning, verifying its clear as well.

Once idling, set each side pilot screw for highest RPM.

Thats all I've got for you, good luck with it.
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Old April 19th, 2021, 01:12 PM   #9
CaliGrrl
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Name: Kerry
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Glad to have you, Tanya!
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Old April 19th, 2021, 01:24 PM   #10
PJW
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Name: Patrick
Location: Canada
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Motorcycle(s): 2005 Kawasaki 250 ZZR

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Wow, thanks for the advice on the battery/airbox. Cutting it looks a lot easier than total disassembly of the rear of the bike! And I'm not really wanting to ditch the air box but it is really in the way of working on the carbs, so this looks like a really good solution.
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Old April 19th, 2021, 02:08 PM   #11
Triple Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PJW View Post
Cutting it looks a lot easier than total disassembly of the rear of the bike!
As I remember, I used a fine hacksaw blade with tape wrapped around one end as a handle. That allowed me to cut it in place. Just watch what you're cutting carefully so you get the cut in the right place, and you end up with a functional battery box and a functional airbox.

After you get it done, you just have to take out the battery and the new, small battery box and the airbox will move rearward nicely. I posted about how I secured the airbox to keep it forward so the carb boots stay in place.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=291123
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