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Old September 11th, 2015, 11:20 AM   #1
APEmike
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Clutch springs

Would anyone happen to have the dimensions for the OEM clutch springs? Much thanks!
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Old September 15th, 2015, 01:08 PM   #2
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Old September 29th, 2015, 02:30 PM   #3
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Well, got the answers i needed when i purchased some Barnett springs. Same as a yamaha R1 spring. I wanted to see if there was a different spring I could use that we make that could be a heavier option than the Barnett. Sadly, it doesnt look like there is.
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Old September 29th, 2015, 03:02 PM   #4
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I'm not sure about the NewGen but here's a short write-up for PreGen Ninjette, you might get lucky,

Quote:
Upgrading to performance clutch springs by Ghostt

Choosing Clutch Springs

Barnett aftermarket clutch springs for a 1985-1989 ZX-600, Part # 501-50-05055. You can view them online at the Barnett catalog, here: http://www.barnettclutches.com/produ...&clutch_cc=600 They can be ordered through your local dealership, or at a number of online sources. Here is one such online catalog: http://www.exoticsportbike.com/6001.htm

Another option is the EBC CSK10 (see http://www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle_..._springs.shtml). This kit isn't quite as stiff as the Barnett, but is better than stock and usually a little cheaper. The kit does include six springs, while the ninja 250 only uses four.

Category: Clutch & Transmission
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Old September 30th, 2015, 09:32 AM   #5
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Pre-gen and New-gen use the same spring. This spring fits *deep breath* :
EL250 Eliminator (4 pack)
KZ400 (4 pack)
KZ440 (4 pack)
Z-1 900 (5 pack)
KZ1000 (5 pack)
KZ1000 J model (5 pack)
KZ1000 Police model (same as J model)
GPZ1100 (5 pack)
KZ550 (5 pack)
GPZ550 (5 pack)
KZ650 (5 pack)
KZ750 (5 pack)
KZ900 (5 pack)
85-97 ZX600 (5 pack)
84-86 ZX900 (RARE bike) (5 pack)
750/900 Vulcan (5 pack)
Ninja 650 (the new one) (5 pack)

Apparently this is Kawasaki's workhorse spring...

The 300 Spring fits:
The 300 (3 pack)
05-06 ZX6R and RR (6 pack)
07-16 Honda CRF150 (?!?!?!?!?!) (4 pack (even more ?!?!?!?!?!?))
06-15 ZX10R (6 pack)

Pre-gen/New-Gen Spring size:
ID .557" 14.1mm
OD .789" 20.0mm
Length 1.325" 33.6mm

300 spring size:
ID .594" 15.0mm
OD .768" 19.5mm
Length 1.720" 43.71mm


Comprehensive cross reference list!
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Old October 12th, 2015, 07:18 PM   #6
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I have stronger springs, preloaded with washers in my new-gen. Along with a true Kevlar clutch. @Racer x and I went through this extensively as he had experienced slippage.
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Old October 13th, 2015, 08:57 AM   #7
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yea, how is it possible to get a 250 to slip on the stock clutch if they used it in a KZ1000? I know the police bikes used to get 35-40K on a clutch easy!

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Old October 13th, 2015, 06:21 PM   #8
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yea, how is it possible to get a 250 to slip on the stock clutch if they used it in a KZ1000? I know the police bikes used to get 35-40K on a clutch easy!

Calling @RacerX

What's going on here?
The OEM discs and the four spring clutch will not take over 35hp. That is why I upgraded to better discs and springs. If we had 5 or 6 springs, there would be much more holding pressure, but budget bikes don't get the fancy stuff.
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Old October 13th, 2015, 07:08 PM   #9
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Doesn't the new 300 have 3 springs?
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Old October 13th, 2015, 07:16 PM   #10
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I use the Barnett springs and they are at coil bind when I pull the lever in. There is no room for more spring.

To get the stock clutch to burn up and turn the steels black in one mile ,just add enough power. About forty or fifty will do the stock clutch in. I have seen sixty on the Barnett and no slippage . But I would not like to ride it in a traffic jam.
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Old October 13th, 2015, 07:25 PM   #11
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As I stated above and I've done this upgrade to both my Ninjette and EX500, and have no ill effects as of yet, the EX I've put 20k miles, and the Ninjette I've put 8k miles.

No matter wether you have a PreGen or NewGen, or 300 to OEM clutch springs are just barely up to the job, and over time they just give out.

I would put the upgrade in the same category as suspension upgrades, and even preventive maintenance item. It's an easy and cheap upgrade.
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Old October 13th, 2015, 07:37 PM   #12
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Sorry but I can't believe this "The OEM discs and the four spring clutch will not take over 35hp."
As far as I know the Scuderia Platini use the oem clutch at their over 45 hp race bike.
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Old October 13th, 2015, 07:42 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Somchai View Post
Sorry but I can't believe this "The OEM discs and the four spring clutch will not take over 35hp."
As far as I know the Scuderia Platini use the oem clutch at their over 45 hp race bike.
I would look into that. More than likely they change out the parts just like I did. You don't need major surgery. Just about $150 and some general knowledge for better feel and more holding power.
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Old October 13th, 2015, 07:45 PM   #14
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alright, so I cannot read this...but I see a sub cooler and a slipper clutch in their "racing" parts.

http://www.scuderiaplatini.it/250_racing.html
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Old October 13th, 2015, 07:48 PM   #15
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Oh...and my springs are a lot like the ones on this page. the spacer is just a bit thicker than stock.

http://www.beet.co.jp/english/kawasaki/ninja250r/
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Old October 13th, 2015, 11:31 PM   #16
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Just do the Barnett springs for less than $20 USD, you'll be just fine.
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Old October 14th, 2015, 01:34 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by mgentz View Post
I would look into that. More than likely they change out the parts just like I did. You don't need major surgery. Just about $150 and some general knowledge for better feel and more holding power.
Maybe I had to make it more clear that I refer on the clutch plates and not so on the springs, sorry.
But that also hasn't anything to do with the slipper clutch, what I also have now and what's a great thing.
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Old October 14th, 2015, 07:00 AM   #18
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So the weak point is the springs, not the friction plates, which, APEMike's post, is the same friction plates they used on many motorcycles up to the KZ1000? They just put in heavier springs on these bigger bikes, as I don't think they can fit a fifth spring inside those plates, no?
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Old October 14th, 2015, 07:24 AM   #19
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I was getting slip too. The OEM plates were fine and still in spec. I swapped them out for Barnett kevlar plates and springs.

The OEM springs suck. That's all there is to it.

You spend a lot of time on the clutch with the 250R because its up and down through the gears more than a larger bike. And all the compression and decompression of the springs just wears them out faster. When combined with only 4 springs, and low grade ones at that....they bail.
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Old October 14th, 2015, 08:08 AM   #20
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Another factor is type of oil, the wrong oil will cause slippage.

any 10w-40 to 20w50 rated JASO-MA/MA2 oil will do just fine. A popular choice is Shell Rotella synthetic T6

The springs are weaker for a reason, it's an entry level bike.

Below are pictures showing the difference between OEM Vs aftermarket springs
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 6018673551489266018.jpg (280.7 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 5937349003824691810.jpg (64.2 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 5937349039540306098.jpg (41.0 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 5937349120058706818.jpg (38.4 KB, 5 views)
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Old October 14th, 2015, 08:57 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spooph View Post
So the weak point is the springs, not the friction plates, which, APEMike's post, is the same friction plates they used on many motorcycles up to the KZ1000? They just put in heavier springs on these bigger bikes, as I don't think they can fit a fifth spring inside those plates, no?
Actually his post refers to the springs, not the plates. I would need to look up the cross reference on the plates, but do work great for the bike. They just don't work well when stressed.
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Old October 14th, 2015, 09:15 AM   #22
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Clutch springs determine the recoil of the clutch lever; how hard it is to pull the lever and, when the lever is released, how much force is holding the lever up against its stop. Weak clutch springs make it very easy to pull the lever, which is convenient for weak riders, but can result in some clutch slippage, as the engine is not fully engaged when the clutch is released. With stiffer clutch springs, the lever is harder to pull, but when the lever is released, the clutch is fully disengaged, and there will be no clutch slippage, so the engine is allowed to direct all of its power to the rear wheel. It is believed that, since many newbies and female riders are attracted to the Ninjette & EX-500, Kawasaki opted to use softer clutch spring that would allow easier disengagement of the engine.

Also the KZ1000 uses more plates and steels, almost 2x as the Ninjette.

But given the power output of the Ninjette, the plates and steels are still a decent amount, if you change out the springs themselves. This is assuming you don't abuse the clutch itself, keep it adjusted properly, and of course use the right oil.
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Old October 14th, 2015, 10:31 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgentz View Post
Actually his post refers to the springs, not the plates. I would need to look up the cross reference on the plates, but do work great for the bike. They just don't work well when stressed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostt View Post
Clutch springs determine the recoil of the clutch lever; how hard it is to pull the lever and, when the lever is released, how much force is holding the lever up against its stop. Weak clutch springs make it very easy to pull the lever, which is convenient for weak riders, but can result in some clutch slippage, as the engine is not fully engaged when the clutch is released. With stiffer clutch springs, the lever is harder to pull, but when the lever is released, the clutch is fully disengaged, and there will be no clutch slippage, so the engine is allowed to direct all of its power to the rear wheel. It is believed that, since many newbies and female riders are attracted to the Ninjette & EX-500, Kawasaki opted to use softer clutch spring that would allow easier disengagement of the engine.

Also the KZ1000 uses more plates and steels, almost 2x as the Ninjette.

But given the power output of the Ninjette, the plates and steels are still a decent amount, if you change out the springs themselves. This is assuming you don't abuse the clutch itself, keep it adjusted properly, and of course use the right oil.

OK, so a KZ1000 puts out more than 80hp. It has the same springs as a ninja250, but 1 more, for a total of 5, instead of 4 - per APEMike's post up top.

The claim is that the 250's clutch starts slipping above 35hp.

So, this then leads to 1 additional spring allows the KZ1000 clutch to hold 45hp more? That's seem disproportionate to me...

Some quick math, which might betray my lack of physics knowledge, but work with me.

KZ1000 uses the same clutch springs as a Ninja 250.

KZ1000 has 5 clutch springs @ 80hp = 16hp/spring.

Ninja 250 has 4 clutch springs @ 35hp = 8.75hp/spring.

How is then is it that the Ninja 250 starts slipping above 35hp and the KZ1000 does not at almost twice the HP/spring, using the same springs?

Where am I getting confused?
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Old October 14th, 2015, 10:36 AM   #24
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It has more plates and steels, than the Ninjette, which also has a large factor.

Clutch is a mixture of plates, steels, and springs.
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Old October 14th, 2015, 10:43 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostt View Post
It has more plates and steels, than the Ninjette, which also has a large factor
OK, so with the increased plates comes increased surface area and therefor increased clamping efficiency?

I never quite understood how stacking plates equals less, larger diameter plates.

I do understand a bigger circle provides more torque, but not how stacking small diameter plates increases torque, if that makes any sense...

Or am I on the wrong path here? Should I be thinking frictional coefficients?

By adding more plates, the clutch is capable of more much friction, and so the squeezing power of a "weaker" spring is amplified?

Help me relate the clamping force of the springs to the surface area more vs. less plates please.
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Old October 14th, 2015, 01:21 PM   #26
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Link to original page on YouTube.

A good example of wet clutch, and how oil effects it

Link to original page on YouTube.

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old October 14th, 2015, 01:33 PM   #27
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More friction and steel plates = more power handling capabilities of a clutch. It all comes down to total surface area, the springs themselves apply the clamping force to the clutch pack.

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old October 14th, 2015, 02:05 PM   #28
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love that dude! That's the equation I was after, and explained it perfectly! Thanks!
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Old October 15th, 2015, 08:51 PM   #29
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A long time ago I knew that calculation, but I forgot it.

Glad I could find it, I love the 21st century.
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Old March 9th, 2016, 09:12 AM   #30
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Plus I believe the 300 has a dual action cluth, both drag type & slipper, so under power it increases lockup rather than slip & under reverse torque, it slides out of engagement ala slipper clutch, hence the reason it only has 3 compression springs !

Does anyone know if the 300 clutch cover case fits on the 250 crankcase ?
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Old March 14th, 2016, 02:23 PM   #31
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Most likely not.
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Old March 14th, 2016, 03:33 PM   #32
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This thread indicates the gasket area is the same https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...ngine+compared

So in theory 300 clutch can be retrofitted to 250 but really needs the 300 clutch cover, as another thread shows the 250 reinforcing webs being cut away to make it fit !

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cuong...28FB2.jpg.html

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/cuong...D8519.jpg.html
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