November 10th, 2012, 08:28 AM | #1 |
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Flush Mount Turn Signal DIY
This is my first attempt at a narrated and edited video. I thought I would make a DIY for installing Flush Mount turn signals.
Link to original page on YouTube.
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November 10th, 2012, 12:23 PM | #2 |
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this is a very good tutorial, great work.
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November 10th, 2012, 03:22 PM | #3 |
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Thanks. I noticed a few people were just bolting them on without adapter plates, or just sticking them on with something, but they end up looking like crap. So I decided to make decent adapter plates.
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November 10th, 2012, 08:37 PM | #4 |
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Make a few more and sell 'em here and on eBay. Those signals certainly look popular enough!
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November 10th, 2012, 09:12 PM | #5 |
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Tempting, but what I don't understand is why manufacturers don't make signals that just bolt up. There is at least one the bolts up to the newgen, but none that I could find for the pregen.
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November 10th, 2012, 09:16 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
Even the color-matched Asian Cycle flushmounts were generics that required drilling. The 650R/ZX14 wedge-style ones are used on a lot of Kawasaki's bikes and I've seen "flush" lenses for those in addition to complete OEM replicas and tinted lenses, but that's the closest I've ever seen and a "replica" of the OEM style is hardly what most people want to replace stalky signals with. |
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November 10th, 2012, 10:58 PM | #7 |
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Take advantage of those 2 filament bulbs.
Wire the dim filament in with the gauge cluster or tail light. You'll end up with running lights and turn signals. Much more visible at night, and well worth the 20 minutes it will take to cut, splice, and solder. |
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November 10th, 2012, 11:17 PM | #8 |
QrtLtrDog
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You have a godly voice sir.
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November 11th, 2012, 02:07 AM | #9 |
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You have an awesome speaking voice! Do more DIYs, very clear and easy to understand and follow.
Ok, lame question... On a new gen, any idea how to do this? I have a flush mount that is dual filament but I'm simply ignoring the spare wire. Not even sure where to look for my gauge cluster light wire or how to go about hooking it up that won't be a pain to undo any time I want to remove the side fairing. :blink: it'd be cool to have running lights though!
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November 11th, 2012, 05:10 AM | #10 |
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I don't do enough night riding to make it worthwhile. But I was thinking about wiring them together to make it a little brighter.
LOL, that's the first time anybody has described it that way. Thanks. I'll probably do more of them later on.
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November 11th, 2012, 10:02 AM | #11 | |
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D, it's still a good idea for visibility on foggy mornings or rainy days etc. I don't ride at night that often, but I figured it was a good idea for all the other times I'm riding. It makes me distinguishable as a motorcycle from the front, rather than just a car with a missing headlight. I think that's why many new sport bikes have started doing those corner markers in the edges of the headlight.
Quote:
Then you'll want to splice into the hot wire (red usually) and add wires that will lead to that 3rd wire on the turn signals. There's already a common ground on the turn signals, so no biggie there. If you add some quick-disconnects, it will be just as easy to disconnect as it currently is; only difference is you'll have to disconnect 3 wires instead of 2. Do it! It will be easy and running lights improve your visibility at night, dawn, and dusk. I have turn signals that are single filament with LED's in them (ridiculously bright and overpriced ones from superbrightleds.com ) and I wired in some relays to make them running lights that flash when my turn signals are used. I think it was well worth my time. Check out how visible they are, even in a horribly out of focus picture: and from the side: Sorry for pic whoring in your thread D |
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November 11th, 2012, 12:10 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
Even the incandescents have trouble in bright Florida sunlight. No offense, but I don't trust night photos of LED lights.
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November 11th, 2012, 01:06 PM | #13 |
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Just as bright as the oem lights, but they're more visible from the sides.
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November 11th, 2012, 02:48 PM | #14 |
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I went to the superbrightleds.com and the brightest 1156 bulb they had was 220 lumens. That's about half the lumens of a standard bulb which is about 402 lumens. I want to replace all my bulbs on the 2007 with leds, but I don't want to do it if they aren't going to be as bright as the real bulbs.
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November 11th, 2012, 07:09 PM | #15 |
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I'll give it a shot tomorrow. My repair is in pause at the moment awaiting FedEx so I have tinker time before they get here.
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November 15th, 2012, 11:21 AM | #16 |
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Another daytime shot I found on my computer for you n4mwd:
again, the numbers may be smaller, but they really seem just as bright to me in daylight as the standard bulbs. Maybe they're not, idk. But I've not had issues with people not seeing my turn signals during the day, and at night, people definitely see me better because they're wired as running lights. Notice that I was responsible and at least attempted to control the glare output from my HID setup. It worked for the most part. I still did a projector retrofit though |
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November 15th, 2012, 02:42 PM | #17 |
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No offense, but those photos are daytime photos and not what a Florida cracker would call daylight. Both looked to be in the shade. Anyhow, they still look good for running lights. Do you have a photo of the actual turn signal operating in daylight?
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November 15th, 2012, 03:13 PM | #18 |
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@n4mwd ah, you folk in Florida just hog all the sunshine from the rest of the country.
Though, question for ya @choneofakind (or whomever), on my flush mount I have three wires. Red, black, and black/white. I've figured out the black is ground, red is blinker, and black/white is running light. Right now I have red and black wired into the existing turn signal plug with the black/white hanging loose. If I clip the black/white straight to the battery, the bright filiment comes on solid and the dimmer one blinks really fast with the switch. The solid running light drowns out the blinker. Any ideas?
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November 15th, 2012, 03:56 PM | #19 | |||
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Below is the pregen turn signal schematic.
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November 15th, 2012, 04:43 PM | #20 |
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Whoops, I lied.
My red is hooked to the bike's green. The black/white is hooked to the black/yellow on the bike, and the solid black is loose. When i was trying to figure out which was which, if the solid black had power the running light came on. If the red had power, it blinked.
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November 15th, 2012, 06:20 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
Anyhow, you need to connect black to the bike's black/yellow. And red to the bikes other wire which is probably a different color on each side. From what you are saying, the striped wire goes to the tail light.
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November 15th, 2012, 06:55 PM | #22 | |
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Second one was in the open in broad daylight. I had just gotten home from work on a half day, it was like 11:30 am summer sunshine. Sure there's the little bit of shade to cut the glare from one tree over my driveway, but it was bright that day outside. Trust me when I say the cameras were compensating on both days. |
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November 15th, 2012, 08:10 PM | #23 |
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Um, yep, it compensated all the shadows away.
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November 15th, 2012, 08:25 PM | #24 |
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Well fine don't believe me. I like my bike. You like your bike. No worries
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November 16th, 2012, 05:34 AM | #25 |
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I like ALL Ninjas. But you need a vacation to a state that has real sunshine. And shadows. And skies that are blue instead of white.
EDIT: Attached a photo of what the sky is supposed to look like. Note the blue sky and distinct shadows. This was taken on the west bank of Lake Okeechobee looking east.
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November 16th, 2012, 08:44 AM | #26 | |
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Quote:
But yeah, while I was testing, the power was coming from the turn signal wire. So when I had red to green and the switch on, the light blinked (albeit very quickly).
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November 16th, 2012, 12:03 PM | #27 |
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What's ROD?
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November 16th, 2012, 12:04 PM | #28 |
Riding Ruby..
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haha it's like a mythical creature or something, saw a show on discovery channel one time about it..
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November 20th, 2012, 04:27 PM | #29 |
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Can a router table remove the lip from this steel bushing?
I just went to a shop and the guy kept telling me that I'd have to get it milled, but it seems like the machine you used could do it easily if it can do the same thing with steel. |
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November 20th, 2012, 04:55 PM | #30 | |
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Quote:
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November 20th, 2012, 06:13 PM | #31 |
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November 20th, 2012, 06:55 PM | #32 |
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Great DIY video, simple, easy to understand, and to the point!
When I mounted mine I used nuts with a nylon insert in them to help reduce the chance of loosing one from vibrations? |
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November 21st, 2012, 05:58 AM | #33 |
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I used lockwashers, but locknuts are a good choice too. Either will keep it from vibrating loose. I like locknuts better, but they didn't have any at the hardware store when I was there.
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November 21st, 2012, 06:06 AM | #34 | |
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Quote:
The easiest and cheapest way to remove the lip on that thing in the photo would be with a $10 angle grinder from Harbor Freight. A mill isn't the right tool either. An angle grinder isn't going to make it perfect, but it will work. If I wanted it perfect, I would use a lathe.
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November 21st, 2012, 11:11 AM | #35 |
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This is really odd. The bike is plumb but the parking lot, car and truck in the background are tilted.
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November 25th, 2012, 07:31 PM | #36 |
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ai4px you should see my whole house!
jk, but that would be sweet. |
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June 23rd, 2014, 04:42 PM | #37 |
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your sig is my username.
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June 23rd, 2014, 05:38 PM | #38 |
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it's the [ you ] tag. Which shows the username of the dude that's currently logged on. Log out and it should say unregistered or something.
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