How to know you need your valves adjusted?

[Hero Danny]

Hey everyone, I've been experiencing a problem with Amy

My poor girl has (since i've had her at 9,200 miles (now she's at 9900)) been having some issues starting. She fires up okay, but will have issues without the choke pulled the entire way... actually, the choke feels like it does nothing until it's pulled up fully. This happens even in 75 degree weather. Once she's warmed up for about 2-3 minutes she's completely ready to go, though.

Also, I noticed that when I'm riding going roughly 60 MPH, I am revving close to 9.5k revs. Seems a bit high, it's consistent too, because when I am going about 80 my revs are near 12k RPMS. And before you ask, I only weigh 150 lbs. I will be tucking, and going on level ground with no wind blowing.

She also seems to have not the smooth power band that she should, and shows no real power until 9k RPMS. (although I heard that is normal for 250 ninja)

I ruled out carbs, because there is absolutely no hesitation. Also this has been happening since day 1, before I installed the slip on.

I have no idea if valves have ever been checked, so it's safe to say they haven't. Maintenance calls for 7,500 she's more than 2k miles above that. I'm going to check my valves, a mechanic quoted me $250.00 so I think i'm just going to do this myself. I'll probably just buy the special tool for $50 or whatever it was just to make life easier since I'm a noob.

My question here is, do all these things seem like valve related problems? Or could there be another problem as well? I would like to tackle everything while I have the bike apart. I plan on also replacing the sparks with some iridium NGK at the same time I do the valves.

Also if anyone has any good guides with pictures on how to check and adjust the valves that would be great, I searched a lot but really couldn't find a resource that helped me enough to feel that I could perform the maintenance.

One final question, is it okay for me to ride her until this issue is fixed? I haven't been beating her at all, never revving past 8k unless I am in 6th gear. But if there is a large risk of me blowing the engine, then I won't pull her out..

She's running Full synthetic motorcycle oil Mobil 1 10W-40

Thanks in advanced everyone!

[Alex]

Take the slipon off, or jet the bike properly.


(you know, the one that doesn't need any jetting and was running better instantly when you installed it)

[DaBlue1]

How to know you need your valves adjusted?- https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...55&postcount=9

Valves are probably not your single issue, although you may need one, if one has not been done.

....These few improvements are easy to do, don't cost a lot and will make the bike respond and ride a little better. (since you have a slip on exhaust)

1. Shim the needles with (2) two 3mm washers and remove the snorkel. Shims and a little bit more fuel to the 1/4-3/4 throttle range, a little more fuel results in better throttle response and in many cases better start ups-(If you have a slip on exhaust removal of the kleen air system is optional if you don't mind the popping.)

2. Replace the stock air filter with;
WIX- P/N: 49721
UNI Air Filter- P/N: NU-2303
Pipercross Performance Air Filter- P/N: MXP166 or
Hurricane Racing Performance Air Filter for the ’08-’12 Ninja 250


4. Leave the airbox in. There is no real need to replace it with pod filters unless you like unnecessary work & spending more time tuning than riding. The exact same or similar results you get with pods you can get with the stock airbox and full exhaust system

3. Install Iridium Spark Plugs-either NGK Iridium CR8EIX or The Denso Iridium IU24

4. Run 87 octane gas, it make more power. Use ethanol free if you can get it.

5. Run full synthetic oil

6. Change your sprocket set up to 15/43, it offers the best balance of acceleration and top speed.

7. If you got a couple hundred dollars, you can change your engine timing. the BRT i-DTIS offers the second most significant gains to HP and torque as far as add ons go. The first is the full exhaust.

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by Alex

Take the slipon off, or jet the bike properly.


(you know, the one that doesn't need any jetting and was running better instantly when you installed it)

Alex, I don't think you read the whole post this issue was present from day 1, I just decided to live with it. But I got to thinking today that maybe I should get it done and called a dealer and was quoted $250, so I decided to maybe try myself.

I wouldn't say the bike is "running" better. I just think that the throttle response has improved. That's all, In terms of raw horsepower the bike feels exactly the same.

[capt_bugaloo]

The cold-bloodedness is par for the course for the Ninja 250.

If you are running at 12000 RPM while doing 80 MPH, that seems a bit high. Are you _sure_ it's actually shifting up into 6th?

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Valves are probably not your single issue, although you may need one, if one has not been done.

....These few improvements are easy to do, don't cost a lot and will make the bike respond and ride a little better. (since you have a slip on exhaust)

1. Shim the needles with (2) two 3mm washers and remove the snorkel. Shims and a little bit more fuel to the 1/4-3/4 throttle range, a little more fuel results in better throttle response and in many cases better start ups-(If you have a slip on exhaust removal of the kleen air system is optional if you don't mind the popping.)

2. Replace the stock air filter with;
WIX- P/N: 49721
UNI Air Filter- P/N: NU-2303
Pipercross Performance Air Filter- P/N: MXP166 or
Hurricane Racing Performance Air Filter for the ’08-’12 Ninja 250


4. Leave the airbox in. There is no real need to replace it with pod filters unless you like unnecessary work & spending more time tuning than riding. The exact same or similar results you get with pods you can get with the stock airbox and full exhaust system

3. Install Iridium Spark Plugs-either NGK Iridium CR8EIX or The Denso Iridium IU24

4. Run 87 octane gas, it make more power. Use ethanol free if you can get it.

5. Run full synthetic oil

6. Change your sprocket set up to 15/43, it offers the best balance of acceleration and top speed.

7. If you got a couple hundred dollars, you can change your engine timing. the BRT i-DTIS offers the second most significant gains to HP and torque as far as add ons go. The first is the full exhaust.

I've read your list a few times before, I like it Seems like a good general list to go by.

1. I agree that I will shim the needles eventually to help make the bike run smoother since, from factory it doesn't run optimally.

2. I'll try to pick one up eventually, but their price tags are rather high for an air filter.

3. Iridium NGK's are on the list

4. I only use 87 octane, not sure about the ethanol free stuff

5. I'm running Mobil 1 Fully synthetic motorcycle oil 10W-40

6. I'm gonna stick with stock sprocket, I don't do any highway driving so it's kind of unnecessary.

7. I'll skip the engine timing, seems too complicated for my monkey brain to handle..

I think the valves being adjusted + the new sparks being installed will make a world of difference for me. As stated before, this has always been with the bike, it has nothing to do with the slip on. 10k miles is pushing it for not having the valves ever checked.

Eventually I'll get down and dirty with the carbs, but not this summer. It's something I just want to avoid, I had to mess with the crabs literally on a daily basis with the old bike, and I see little to no reason to mess with them now, the bike is running really good in terms of carbs. My only issue is the choke (which isn't a big issue to be honest) and higher RPM's which seem to be symptoms of valves needing adjustment.

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by capt_bugaloo

The cold-bloodedness is par for the course for the Ninja 250.

If you are running at 12000 RPM while doing 80 MPH, that seems a bit high. Are you _sure_ it's actually shifting up into 6th?

I couldn't be more sure. I triple checked. this happened more than once too. For a while I thought to myself "maybe my 6th gear is broken?" But it isn't, I counted and they are all there and work properly.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

.... My only issue is the choke (which isn't a big issue to be honest) and higher RPM's which seem to be symptoms of valves needing adjustment.

Your higher rpms are probably not related to your valves, but more instrument or electrical related.

An improper reading tach or speedo can make correlation between the two completely off.

GPS your speed, note your rpms, and see what you come up with.

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Your higher rpms are probably not related to your valves, but more instrument or electrical related.

An improper reading tach or speedo can make correlation between the two completely off.

GPS your speed, note your rpms, and see what you come up with.

Ok, i'll try it out when I get a chance

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

Ok, i'll try it out when I get a chance

Check and lube your speedo cable as well.

[ForceofWill]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

How to know you need your valves adjusted?- https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...55&postcount=9

Valves are probably not your single issue, although you may need one, if one has not been done.

....These few improvements are easy to do, don't cost a lot and will make the bike respond and ride a little better. (since you have a slip on exhaust)

1. Shim the needles with (2) two 3mm washers and remove the snorkel. Shims and a little bit more fuel to the 1/4-3/4 throttle range, a little more fuel results in better throttle response and in many cases better start ups-(If you have a slip on exhaust removal of the kleen air system is optional if you don't mind the popping.)

2. Replace the stock air filter with;
WIX- P/N: 49721
UNI Air Filter- P/N: NU-2303
Pipercross Performance Air Filter- P/N: MXP166 or
Hurricane Racing Performance Air Filter for the ’08-’12 Ninja 250


4. Leave the airbox in. There is no real need to replace it with pod filters unless you like unnecessary work & spending more time tuning than riding. The exact same or similar results you get with pods you can get with the stock airbox and full exhaust system

3. Install Iridium Spark Plugs-either NGK Iridium CR8EIX or The Denso Iridium IU24

4. Run 87 octane gas, it make more power. Use ethanol free if you can get it.

5. Run full synthetic oil

6. Change your sprocket set up to 15/43, it offers the best balance of acceleration and top speed.

7. If you got a couple hundred dollars, you can change your engine timing. the BRT i-DTIS offers the second most significant gains to HP and torque as far as add ons go. The first is the full exhaust.

Dyno's for both ways?

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by ForceofWill

Dyno's for both ways?

Yes.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...545#post248545
http://www.sportrider.com/2008-kawas...k-racing-cheap
http://areapnolimits.com/products/Sl...-Race-2008.php
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=124144
http://bayarearidersforum.com/forums...d.php?t=412023
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...8&postcount=30
http://www.racingorder.com/2010/11/n...-dyno-results/

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Check and lube your speedo cable as well.

I may pass on this. Mainly because lubing the speedo is only required when the speedo is jumping around. I don't want to mess with things that aren't broke.

[Hero Danny]

Does anyone know everything i need to buy to adjust my valves? I plan on getting the $50 tool, plus I know I need the metric feeler gauges. Apparently I need some shims too? Not completely sure what ones I need or where to buy, is there anything else I am missing? Please help, I plan to order everything within the next few days.

[Flying]

The shims should be ordered after measuring using the service manual's procedure.

Edit: By $50 tool, are you talking about the Kawasaki valve adjustment tool for the pregens? You don't need it for your 2012 Ninja.
The way valve clearances are set between the pregen and newgen models are different. Pregens use an adjusting screw to set their valve distances, while the newgens use shims.

The newgen asjustmnet procedure, this is all you need:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9924
In this diagram you can see how a solid shim is what dictates how far the valve protrudes into your combustion chamber.
http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oe...799f76/valve-s

The adjustment is really simple. What you need are GOOD measuring tools: a set of gauges and a caliper or micrometer that is accurate at least to .01mm or .001in.

[ForceofWill]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Yes.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...545#post248545
http://www.sportrider.com/2008-kawas...k-racing-cheap
http://areapnolimits.com/products/Sl...-Race-2008.php
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=124144
http://bayarearidersforum.com/forums...d.php?t=412023
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...8&postcount=30
http://www.racingorder.com/2010/11/n...-dyno-results/

Ok, so no. I meant on the same bike same dyno both ways. I'd really like to see a curve between full exhuast and stock/no snorkel/pods.

[N-m]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

I may pass on this. Mainly because lubing the speedo is only required when the speedo is jumping around. I don't want to mess with things that aren't broke.

If your bike isn't running right you don't know what isn't broken until you take these small things apart, get a first hand look, clean and relube them, and then put them back together again.

These type things are called maintenance and preventive maintenance. Your attitude does not increase your odds for getting home, but rather decreases those odds.

Still not convinced? Let me show you in a different way. Your bike is running but not running optimally. Why fix what isn't broken?

If you don't know how to do this read up on the fans and pictorials. It is easy, delivers confidence in yourself and your bike, and ensures your speedo is running as well as possible.

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by Flying

The shims should be ordered after measuring using the service manual's procedure.

Edit: By $50 tool, are you talking about the Kawasaki valve adjustment tool for the pregens? You don't need it for your 2012 Ninja.
The way valve clearances are set between the pregen and newgen models are different. Pregens use an adjusting screw to set their valve distances, while the newgens use shims.

The newgen asjustmnet procedure, this is all you need:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9924
In this diagram you can see how a solid shim is what dictates how far the valve protrudes into your combustion chamber.
http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oe...799f76/valve-s

The adjustment is really simple. What you need are GOOD measuring tools: a set of gauges and a caliper or micrometer that is accurate at least to .01mm or .001in.

This is PERFECT! Thank you!
You saved me $50!

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by N-m

If your bike isn't running right you don't know what isn't broken until you take these small things apart, get a first hand look, clean and relube them, and then put them back together again.

These type things are called maintenance and preventive maintenance. Your attitude does not increase your odds for getting home, but rather decreases those odds.

Still not convinced? Let me show you in a different way. Your bike is running but not running optimally. Why fix what isn't broken?

If you don't know how to do this read up on the fans and pictorials. It is easy, delivers confidence in yourself and your bike, and ensures your speedo is running as well as possible.

Well, I ultimately agree with you. Problem is I REALLY don't think there's an actual issue with my speedometer, (other than it being off by about 8% or w/e from factory) I'll double check with a GPS when I get a chance, but from what I observed my speedo isn't reading slower than I'm actually going... If the GPS confirms that my bike is going faster then indicated then i will go ahead and start lubing cables and messing with things, but I'm not going to assume it's broken and start pulling things out. I'm not familiar enough with this bike like you or anyone else is, so every time I mess with the bike I run a larger risk of breaking something.

I honestly believe it's the valves, I heard that your valves are very important on these little bikes, and must be done frequently (per service manual). Also I would say it's safe to say that the sparks were never checked or changed since it looks like not a single screw on this bike has ever been turned.

I'm going to buy a service manual, found a PDF version but nothing compares to the book, found some on e-bay too for roughly $20-30

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

......I honestly believe it's the valves, I heard that your valves are very important on these little bikes, and must be done frequently (per service manual). Also I would say it's safe to say that the sparks were never checked or changed since it looks like not a single screw on this bike has ever been turned.

The first valve service is not due until 7,500, 15,000, 24,000 miles. Given the mile the average rider puts on a bike in a riding season, I wouldn't call them frequent. Many of new gen owners did not get their first valve adjustments until well after the initial 7500 service and many were barely off from their factory settings.

Since your bike is reading approx. 17 mph slower than it should for the given rpms and sprocket set up, you have a few possible problems.
1.) Your speedo is off more than the norm. (you've pretty much ruled this out)
2.) Your tach is reading wrong (it has been noted that tachs do go bad)
3. Your IC ignitor has an issue (problems with the ic ignitor is also well noted)
4.) Your clutch is slipping at high rpms. (this can be attributed to an improperly adjusted clutch lever or weak clutch springs) How's your clutch adjustment? Make any adjustments lately?

Crappy gas and spark plugs may attribute to the starting issues you have. This has also been seen before. Honestly I think your chasing the wrong thing. If your valves were a real issue, you'd probably be experiencing issues like lose of power, poor idle speed, and low compression.

Good luck on fixing your problem.

[ForceofWill]

I'd start with the stuff blue listed. I'm gonna be due for valves shortly so if you want we can just do them both in my garage at the same time.

My bike is the same way with the choke. It likes it full on to start and by the time I get my gloves and helmet on I go full off and can ride off. Maybe 1 min.

If you're running that high rpm in 6th I'd check for clutch slipping like he said. Gonna be hard to tell for you since you don't have any experience on another 250. If it's just in the higher gears I'd lean to slipping.

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

The first valve service is not due until 7,500, 15,000, 24,000 miles. Given the mile the average rider puts on a bike in a riding season, I wouldn't call them frequent. Many of new gen owners did not get their first valve adjustments until well after the initial 7500 service and many were barely off from their factory settings.

Since your bike is reading approx. 17 mph slower than it should for the given rpms and sprocket set up, you have a few possible problems.
1.) Your speedo is off more than the norm. (you've pretty much ruled this out)
2.) Your tach is reading wrong (it has been noted that tachs do go bad)
3. Your IC ignitor has an issue (problems with the ic ignitor is also well noted)
4.) Your clutch is slipping at high rpms. (this can be attributed to an improperly adjusted clutch lever or weak clutch springs) How's your clutch adjustment? Make any adjustments lately?

Crappy gas and spark plugs may attribute to the starting issues you have. This has also been seen before. Honestly I think your chasing the wrong thing. If your valves were a real issue, you'd probably be experiencing issues like lose of power, poor idle speed, and low compression.

Good luck on fixing your problem.

THANKS!!

I easily put 1,000 miles a month, so for me to go 7500 miles I can do that it about 1-2 riding seasons easy. I guess you're right not "frequent" but they are important none-the-less.

The reason why I am checking valves is because they are 2,500 miles over due inspection.

I did change my clutch lever... maybe I didn't tighten it all the way?? That could be it. Although, I'm pretty sure this happened before I got the new lever, but it does seem worse since I put it in. I'll definitely check it out!

Originally Posted by ForceofWill

I'd start with the stuff blue listed. I'm gonna be due for valves shortly so if you want we can just do them both in my garage at the same time.

My bike is the same way with the choke. It likes it full on to start and by the time I get my gloves and helmet on I go full off and can ride off. Maybe 1 min.

If you're running that high rpm in 6th I'd check for clutch slipping like he said. Gonna be hard to tell for you since you don't have any experience on another 250. If it's just in the higher gears I'd lean to slipping.

I did have another 250, but it was a pregen (03) it seemed to rev about 8k rpms at about 70 MPH, also the pregen was quicker in the straights I noticed. But I heard that the pregen was quicker in a straight line.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

...I did change my clutch lever... maybe I didn't tighten it all the way?? That could be it. Although, I'm pretty sure this happened before I got the new lever, but it does seem worse since I put it in. I'll definitely check it out!

The adjustable clutch levers get adjusted the same way the stock lever do.

If it's too tight (not enough slack) the clutch will not engage fully (slip).

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

The adjustable clutch levers get adjusted the same way the stock lever do.

If it's too tight (not enough slack) the clutch will not engage fully (slip).

I just checked the cable, it seems fine, the clutch isn't slipping from what I can tell.

I did notice my clutch cable makes a squeaking noise where it connects to the transmission. (only when I pull it in)

[Aodrn]

Count the teeth on your sprockets. If the previous owner went down a tooth up front, I would expect that kind of rpm raise. Otherwise it has to be clutch slipping, speedo off, or tach. No matter how crappy your engine runs, it will always do the same rpm in the same gear at the same speed. All you have to do is figure out what could change the engine output speed in relation to the actual speed and rule out those variables.

[Hero Danny]

Well, I tried the GPS and my speedo is fairly accurate (within reason).

Speedo indicated 60 mph and my GPS said 57 so it's fairly close, if anything it's indicating fast. So we can official rule out the speedo.

I took some notes while riding, 60 mph was 9k rpms and 70 mph was 10k rpms. (didn't go any faster since I was on back roads)

As for the sprocket it is a 14t I counted it when I was attempting the 15t mod.

[Aodrn]

I ran some gearing on gearing commander. With a 14 tooth front, you would have to have a 52 tooth rear to be at 10000 rpm at 70. I believe stock is 45 tooth, so I'm assuming the gearing isn't the issue. My guess would be the tach or slipping clutch. Make sure your clutch cable is very loose and test. If you rule that out, your clutch is burnt or you need a new tach. That's my guess anyway.

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by Aodrn

I ran some gearing on gearing commander. With a 14 tooth front, you would have to have a 52 tooth rear to be at 10000 rpm at 70. I believe stock is 45 tooth, so I'm assuming the gearing isn't the issue. My guess would be the tach or slipping clutch. Make sure your clutch cable is very loose and test. If you rule that out, your clutch is burnt or you need a new tach. That's my guess anyway.

I'll try loosening the clutch cable some more. Can't hurt, thanks!

[Hero Danny]

@DaBlue1 @ForceofWill @Aodrn

Gonna order some feeler gauges, I already ordered a service manual.

Will this one work? http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-OEM...pr_product_top

My only concern is that it may not be long enough.

Thanks guys for all your help! I really do appreciate it!

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

.... I'm not familiar enough with this bike like you or anyone else is, so every time I mess with the bike I run a larger risk of breaking something.

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

....Gonna order some feeler gauges, I already ordered a service manual.

Will this one work? http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-OEM...pr_product_top

My only concern is that it may not be long enough.

Thanks guys for all your help! I really do appreciate it!

Here is a little piece of advice. If you are unsure about what you are doing and you don't know anyone else that has experience doing what you are about to do to help and guide you the first time, save your money and have a shop do it. Trying to save an extra $50 bucks or so doing it yourself may not be worth the headache you're about to have.

A basic valve check/ adjustment should be around $200-$300 bucks. You spent that much on an exhaust that gave you zero benefit, now you won't spend the same amount on a valve adjustment?

The feeler gauge you want may work, however longer is better.

If you do decide to do your own valves, this thread is very helpful. Measuring Valves

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Here is a little piece of advice. If you are unsure about what you are doing and you don't know anyone else that has experience doing what you are about to do to help and guide you the first time, save your money and have a shop do it. Trying to save an extra $50 bucks or so doing it yourself may not be worth the headache you're about to have.

A basic valve check/ adjustment should be around $200-$300 bucks. You spent that much on an exhaust that gave you zero benefit, now you won't spend the same amount on a valve adjustment?

The feeler gauge you want may work, however longer is better.

If you do decide to do your own valves, this thread is very helpful. Measuring Valves

Turns out my father is familiar with valve work. He does his VTX's valves.
And he said he would help me out.

It's not the $250 i'm worried about. I'm worried about the dealer not doing the valves and telling me he did (it's happened to my dad before about 8 years ago). Or if he does it wrong, bottom line is I won't be able to tell if he actually did them or not, I called around and asked 3 dealers and all of them said I couldn't go in the room when they have my bike apart because of safety bs. So I won't even be able to see them do the valves or see the condition of the valves...

So I want to do it myself, again, it's not about the money. It's about doing the job right.

Thanks for the resources! I'll be sure to print them out so I have some additional literature to assist me.

[DaBlue1]

Best of luck to you.

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Best of luck to you.

I just checked my Tire pressure, and it was at 27 PSI. Both tires.

Also it may be possible my chain is too loose. Not sure if that would cause the lack of speed issue I was talking about earlier.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

I just checked my Tire pressure, and it was at 27 PSI. Both tires.

Also it may be possible my chain is too loose. Not sure if that would cause the lack of speed issue I was talking about earlier.

Low tire pressure increases rolling resistance, which can result in lower top speed and in some cases lower tire profile.

A 1 or 2 PSI difference (up or down) from the recommended pressure won't make a big difference, but more than 4 PSI difference will.

Start with 32 PSI (rear) and 28 PSI (front). You should see a change in acceleration, handling and speed.

A chain that is too loose can (in some cases) make an engine waste energy, rub on the plastic chain guide and ride up higher in the sprocket. When you tighten the chain, leave it on the looser side of spec. A chain that is too tight is far worse than a loose one.

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Low tire pressure increases rolling resistance, which can result in lower top speed and in some cases lower tire profile.

A 1 or 2 PSI difference (up or down) from the recommended pressure won't make a big difference, but more than 4 PSI difference will.

Start with 32 PSI (rear) and 28 PSI (front). You should see a change in acceleration, handling and speed.

A chain that is too loose can (in some cases) make an engine waste energy, rub on the plastic chain guide and ride up higher in the sprocket. When you tighten the chain, leave it on the looser side of spec. A chain that is too tight is far worse than a loose one.

Thanks! I suspect there may be a leak in my rear tire, not sure yet though, I'm going to pump it back up to 32 like you said. I'm going to wax the chain and tighten it a little bit, there' about an inch of play. So I don't want to mess with it too much more.

You've been a big help, If I ever see you in the recommended for MOTM, you'll have my vote!

[Bigballsofpaint]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

Thanks! I suspect there may be a leak in my rear tire, not sure yet though, I'm going to pump it back up to 32 like you said. I'm going to wax the chain and tighten it a little bit, there' about an inch of play. So I don't want to mess with it too much more.

You've been a big help, If I ever see you in the recommended for MOTM, you'll have my vote!

1 inch of full up and down combined travel is within spec and where i would keep it. .75-1.25 is the normal range i think.

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by Bigballsofpaint

1 inch of full up and down combined travel is within spec and where i would keep it. .75-1.25 is the normal range i think.

I tried measuring it, it seems actually a bit looser than 1 inch,

I made a video, what do you think?

Link to original page on YouTube.

[ForceofWill]

You're doing it wrong anyway, you need to push down a little too when you measure. Grab a ruler and follow this.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...chain_slack%3F

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

I just checked my Tire pressure, and it was at 27 PSI. Both tires.

Also it may be possible my chain is too loose. Not sure if that would cause the lack of speed issue I was talking about earlier.

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Low tire pressure increases rolling resistance, which can result in lower top speed and in some cases lower tire profile.

A 1 or 2 PSI difference (up or down) from the recommended pressure won't make a big difference, but more than 4 PSI difference will.

Start with 32 PSI (rear) and 28 PSI (front). You should see a change in acceleration, handling and speed.

A chain that is too loose can (in some cases) make an engine waste energy, rub on the plastic chain guide and ride up higher in the sprocket. When you tighten the chain, leave it on the looser side of spec. A chain that is too tight is far worse than a loose one.

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

Thanks! I suspect there may be a leak in my rear tire, not sure yet though, I'm going to pump it back up to 32 like you said. I'm going to wax the chain and tighten it a little bit, there' about an inch of play. So I don't want to mess with it too much more.

You've been a big help, If I ever see you in the recommended for MOTM, you'll have my vote!

How did the tire issue work out?

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

How did the tire issue work out?

I increased the rear tire pressure to 32 and tried it again, no difference.

Also I checked the chain slack and measured it (not sure how well I did though, since it was very difficult) And it measured 4mm