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Old June 10th, 2018, 08:10 PM   #1
Zww1019
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Headlight fuse blown and now bike won’t start—occurred simultaneously

I drive my 250r daily, and randomly It didn’t want to start one morning. No clicking, no attempt to turnover, no nothing. I checked the fuses and saw the headlight fuse was blown so I replaced It. The bike still doesn’t attempt to start at all. Could these be related?

Edit: Based on the wiring diagram could It be the headlight or starter relay?

UPDATE:

I drive my 250r daily, and randomly It didn’t want to start one morning. No clicking, no attempt to turnover, no nothing. I checked the fuses and saw the headlight fuse was blown so I replaced It. The bike still doesn’t attempt to start at all. Could these be related?

Based on the wiring diagram could It be the headlight or starter relay?

Edit: Battery voltage is good and I tried to jump start It with another motorcycle.

Update:

Battery tested with multimeter; 12.5V off, 12.4V with ignition on, no change when ignition button is pressed.

Clutch lever and kickstand lever bypassed with no results

**Bypassing starter solenoid causes a small spark and dashboard lights immediately shut off. They stay dimmed for a bit (after removing bypass wire) depending on how long I have the wire bypassing the starter solenoid connected. Still no click/turning over or attempt to start with the starter solenoid bypassed.

****Possible buzzing coming from CDI ignition module (I indistincly heard a very minimal and slight buzzing from under back seat rest, upon removing the CDI box I (think) I could no longer hear the buzzing). Would this cause my symptoms, and is there anyway to test—from what I’ve read it’s only possible to test with a new CDI ignition module, and only causes no spark issues.

Last futzed with by Zww1019; June 18th, 2018 at 06:12 PM.
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Old June 11th, 2018, 07:08 AM   #2
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MOTM - Oct '16
First thing to check would be your battery voltage - is there any?
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Old June 11th, 2018, 07:12 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
First thing to check would be your battery voltage - is there any?
Yeah, I probably should have clarified this. The voltage is good on the battery and I tried to jump start It with another motorcycle.
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Old June 11th, 2018, 08:44 AM   #4
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Jump the starter relay and see if it spins over.
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Old June 11th, 2018, 10:33 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zww1019 View Post
Yeah, I probably should have clarified this. The voltage is good on the battery and I tried to jump start It with another motorcycle.
Not that is there voltage, but what is the voltage?

- voltage of battery with everything off
- voltage of battery when hitting start button
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Old June 12th, 2018, 07:38 AM   #6
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did you check the ignition fuse?
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Old June 18th, 2018, 04:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Not that is there voltage, but what is the voltage?

- voltage of battery with everything off
- voltage of battery when hitting start button


Voltage with key off: 12.5V. When ignition is turned on it changes to 12.4V, and pressing the ignition does not change the Voltage
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Old June 18th, 2018, 04:41 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by cbinker View Post
did you check the ignition fuse?
Yes, all fuses are good except the headlight fuse which I replaced
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Old June 18th, 2018, 05:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zww1019 View Post
Voltage with key off: 12.5V. When ignition is turned on it changes to 12.4V, and pressing the ignition does not change the Voltage
Check the starter relay and the wiring to and from the starter button. Cross the starter relay terminals with a large screwdriver to "jump" it (sparks may fly) and see if the starter spins.

The lack of change in the voltage tells you there is no power being sent to the starter.
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Old June 18th, 2018, 06:00 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
Jump the starter relay and see if it spins over.
Bypassing starter solenoid causes a small spark and dashboard lights immediately shut off. They stay dimmed for a bit (after removing bypass wire) depending on how long I have the wire bypassing the starter solenoid connected. Still no click/turning over or attempt to start.
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Old June 18th, 2018, 06:13 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
First thing to check would be your battery voltage - is there any?
Read above, thx for response!
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Old June 18th, 2018, 06:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
Check the starter relay and the wiring to and from the starter button. Cross the starter relay terminals with a large screwdriver to "jump" it (sparks may fly) and see if the starter spins.

Edit: Thanks for the help and quick respond btw!

The lack of change in the voltage tells you there is no power being sent to the starter.
I updated my post to add this, but I did try bypassing the starter relay:

“Bypassing starter solenoid causes a small spark and dashboard lights immediately shut off. They stay dimmed for a bit (after removing bypass wire) depending on how long I have the wire bypassing the starter solenoid connected. Still no click/turning over or attempt to start with the starter solenoid bypassed.

****Possible buzzing coming from CDI ignition module (I indistincly heard a very minimal and slight buzzing from under back seat rest, upon removing the CDI box I (think) I could no longer hear the buzzing). Would this cause my symptoms, and is there anyway to test—from what I’ve read it’s only possible to test with a new CDI ignition module, and only causes no spark issues.”
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Old June 18th, 2018, 06:35 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zww1019 View Post
Bypassing starter solenoid causes a small spark and dashboard lights immediately shut off. They stay dimmed for a bit (after removing bypass wire) depending on how long I have the wire bypassing the starter solenoid connected. Still no click/turning over or attempt to start.
Ok, now measure battery voltage WHEN you short the starter-solenoid. Dash dims, so battery-voltage must be low. What is battery-voltage when dash dims?



Also did you check 30-amp fuse? Meaning pull it out and measure resistance between legs?

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Old June 18th, 2018, 07:09 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Ok, now measure battery voltage WHEN you short the starter-relay. Dash dims, so battery-voltage must be low. What is battery-voltage when dash dims?



Also did you check 30-amp fuse? Meaning pull it out and measure resistance between legs?
Okay, so after jumping the solenoid, when I checked the battery again The Voltage jumped around (with ignition off It sat ~12.4), It settled down ~7 when I turned ignition on. Then when jumping solenoid again It immediately jumped down to ~0.7 and fluctuating a lot

Edit: It’s now sitting at 12.1 with ignition on, not jumping solenoid. Jumping solenoid again caused It to go up to 18V then down to fluctuating ~.2-.3....sitting st 7.4 now


Edit 2: Ive only checked fuses by looking at them, and It looks fine. If i put the multimeter on It “Ohm”, It fluctuates then shows “0.L”
If I knew how to attach image I could show you, but that basically describes It. And yes pic you showed is what I googled to find the starter solenoid lol
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Old June 18th, 2018, 07:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zww1019 View Post
Okay, so after jumping the solenoid, when I checked the battery again The Voltage jumped around (with ignition off It sat ~12.4), It settled down ~7 when I turned ignition on. Then when jumping solenoid again It immediately jumped down to ~0.7 and fluctuating a lot

Edit: It’s now sitting at 12.1 with ignition on, not jumping solenoid. Jumping solenoid again caused It to go up to 18V then down to fluctuating ~.2-.3....sitting st 7.4 now
Dead battery. Good battery shouldn't drop below 10v when cranking starter.

Final test: find car with good battery that starts car. Leave car off, jumper car's battery to your bike's battery. Wiggle jumper-cables on both ends to bite into terminals and ensure good tight connection. Try starting bike now.
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Old June 18th, 2018, 07:39 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Dead battery. Good battery shouldn't drop below 10v when cranking starter.

Final test: find car with good battery that starts car. Leave car off, jumper car's battery to your bike's battery. Wiggle jumper-cables on both ends to bite into terminals and ensure good tight connection. Try starting bike now.
Well I’ll Be damned. I’ve already tried jumping with my neighbors bike...
I connected to my truck battery (turned off), and It started right up.

So new battery and that’s it?

EDIT:
It started right up with the starter solenoid bypassed. Won’t crank without jumping solenoid starter. So what next? New fuse/starter solenoid/battery?

Thanks—really appreciate It!
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Old June 19th, 2018, 06:33 AM   #17
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MOTM - Nov '17
Make sure the interlock switches are working.

- kickstand switch: both terminals should have connection when up, 0.0 ohms on your meter
- neutral switch: terminal + chassis-ground should have connection, 0.0 ohms on your meter

Next is tracing power-circuit to starter-solenoid starting from battery to ignition-switch to kill switch to start-button.

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Old June 19th, 2018, 07:34 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Make sure the interlock switches are working.

- kickstand switch: both terminals should have connection when up, 0.L on your meter
- neutral switch: terminal + chassis-ground should have connection, 0.L n your meter

Next is tracing power-circuit to starter-solenoid starting from battery to ignition-switch to run/no-run switch to start-button.
^ This is the next step.

More info - https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Unders...afety_switches
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Old June 19th, 2018, 10:55 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Make sure the interlock switches are working.

- kickstand switch: both terminals should have connection when up, 0.L on your meter
- neutral switch: terminal + chassis-ground should have connection, 0.L n your meter

Next is tracing power-circuit to starter-solenoid starting from battery to ignition-switch to run/no-run switch to start-button.


I checked the clutch and kickstand relay switches and they seem fine. So bypassing the starter solenoid relay only helps narrow down the problem? It doesn’t mean that replacing the starter solebiud will fix It? And should I still replace the starter solenoid?

Also I tried following the wiring and still haven’t been able to find anything, the bike is pretty well stripped so I’m able to follow It most of the way. Since the ignition button itself does nothing—no click of noise or anything, like it’s not even there—would this help narrow It down?
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Old June 19th, 2018, 03:08 PM   #20
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Nope, you need to confirm starter-solenoid is actually bad before replacing it. You'd be replacing a perfectly-working part with brand-new perfectly-working part and nothing will change. Your bike still wont' start because you haven't tested, measured and confirmed failed parts. Measure for +12v on yellow/red activation line going into solenoid when you push start-button.

1. IF there's power on that line AND relay doesn't click & power starter, THEN starter-relay is bad... however

2. IF there's NO power on starter-solenoid activation line, then you can't conclude that solenoid is bad. You've got switch-problem somewhere with series of switches starting from ignition-switch.


https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=312718


DID YOU MEASURE the kickstand switch and neutral switches? What resistance values did you get? Do the following tests and get numbers.

1. resistance between kickstand-switch connector terminals with kickstand UP and DOWN. What's the numbers?

2. resistance between neutral-switch and chassis-ground with bike in gear and in NEUTRAL. What's the resistance numbers?

3. resistance between clutch-switch connector terminals with clutch-lever OUT and SQUEEZED-IN. What's the numbers?

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Old June 29th, 2018, 12:30 AM   #21
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Nope, you need to confirm starter-relay is actually bad before replacing it. You'd be replacing a perfectly-working part with brand-new perfectly-working part and nothing will change. Your bike still wont' start because you haven't tested, measured and confirmed failed parts. Measure for +12v on yellow/red activation line going into relay when you push start-button.

1. IF there's power on that line AND relay doesn't click & power starter, THEN starter-relay is bad... however

2. IF there's NO power on starter-relay activation line, then you can't conclude that relay is bad. You've got switch-problem somewhere with series of switches starting from ignition-switch.


https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=312718


DID YOU MEASURE the kickstand switch and neutral switches? What resistance values did you get? Do the following tests and get numbers.

1. resistance between kickstand-switch connector terminals with kickstand UP and DOWN. What's the numbers?

2. resistance between neutral-switch and chassis-ground with bike in gear and in NEUTRAL. What's the resistance numbers?

3. resistance between clutch-switch connector terminals with clutch-lever OUT and SQUEEZED-IN. What's the numbers?

I went ahead and replaced the battery since that was having problems anyway.

I Checked voltage on yellow/red going into starter relay, no Voltage while pressing ignition or not (with key turned on). I did get 12.3V from the white wire going into the starter relay, and 12.3V bypassing starter relay. Also got 11V from the wires in the back of the ignition switch.

0.00ohm (or 0.L) from kickstand switch with kickstand up or down (1.2V).

0.00ohm (or 0.L) for clutch lever switch with clutch lever in or out

0.00ohm (or 0.L) from neutral switch when in gear or not. This one did fluctuate on Ohm a little before settling to 0.00Ohm after a couple seconds.

Edit:
I should mention that while all my dash lights work, and I can start my bike by jumping the starter solenoid, my headlights don’t turn on (even after replacing the fuse). I’m not sure if that helps at all
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Old June 29th, 2018, 10:11 AM   #22
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MOTM - Nov '17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zww1019 View Post
I Checked voltage on yellow/red going into starter relay, no Voltage while pressing ignition or not (with key turned on). I did get 12.3V from the white wire going into the starter relay, and 12.3V bypassing starter relay. Also got 11V from the wires in the back of the ignition switch.
Ok, at least we know that problem is starter-solenoid is not getting activation signal from start-button circuit. White wire connects directly to battery +terminal so it should have power at all times. It feeds power input to ignition switch. If voltage dropped 1.3v in getting to ignition switch, you've got wiring problems.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Zww1019 View Post
0.00ohm (or 0.L) from kickstand switch with kickstand up or down (1.2V).

0.00ohm (or 0.L) for clutch lever switch with clutch lever in or out

0.00ohm (or 0.L) from neutral switch when in gear or not. This one did fluctuate on Ohm a little before settling to 0.00Ohm after a couple seconds.
Now idea behind switch is that it changes states when ON or OFF. So switches should change readings when you flip them if they were working properly. It's highly unlikely that all three of these switches would be broken at exact same time. We can only conclude:

1. you are using meter incorrectly to measure resistance (ohms) and/or...
2. you are connecting to wrong terminals to test these switches.

First, review this video on how to use multimeter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLkPtmnglOI
What brand & model multimeter are you using?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Zww1019 View Post
Edit:
I should mention that while all my dash lights work, and I can start my bike by jumping the starter solenoid, my headlights don’t turn on (even after replacing the fuse). I’m not sure if that helps at all
This is good test of your multimeter skillz:

1. pull headlight fuse and measure resistance between legs. How many ohms?
2. pull low-beam headlight bulb and measure resistance of bulb. How many ohms?

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; July 4th, 2018 at 10:21 PM.
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Old June 29th, 2018, 01:03 PM   #23
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This is good test of your multimeter skillz:

1. pull headlight fuse and measure resistance between legs. How many ohms?
2. pull low-beam headlight bulb and measure resistance of bulb. How many ohms?
Yeah i checked out the videos and stuff on using a multimeter, i was thinking maybe i was doing it wrong or the multimeter sucked, but i watch several videos. I bought the Innova 3306a hands free digital multimeter from autozone (I tried googling this multimeter and can’t even find It online or at the autozone website, so maybe it’s a ****** old one)..
The headlight could be explained by the headlight fuse blown again. I hadn’t thought to check It again. last night when I was trying to start my bike by jumping the starter relay I heard a “pop” while It was trying to turnover, maybe It was that.

1: The broken headlight fuse read 0.L Ohm, the new one was 0.0Ohm.
2: The headlight bulbs; one jumped around a lot at first and settled on 0.00Ohm. The other one slowly skipped around from 0.0Ohm to 0.3Ohm.

Edit: What’s a good multimeter from amazon? If I spent $20 on this one and can’t even find It on google I’d rather return It and buy a good one anyway. I saw the Innova 3320 (https://www.amazon.com/Innova-3320-A...h8L&ref=plSrch), but there’s a lot of others to choose from
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Old June 29th, 2018, 06:06 PM   #24
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MOTM - Nov '17
Seems like meter may be an older unit, no longer in production. Autozone appears to carry new replacement 3306N.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4RIDI/
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...eter/64471_0_0

Link to original page on YouTube.

What you have should be more than enough for basic measurements of voltage and resistance. We're not exactly building spaceships here! Resistance readings jumping around on bulbs is troubling.

1. How are you connecting to bulbs to measure?
2. what resistance-range do you have meter set to?
3. what resistance reading do you get when test-leads are touching?
4. what resistance reading do you get when test-leads are not touching?

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Old July 4th, 2018, 09:33 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
1. resistance between kickstand-switch connector terminals with kickstand UP and DOWN. What's the numbers?

2. resistance between neutral-switch and chassis-ground with bike in gear and in NEUTRAL. What's the resistance numbers?

3. resistance between clutch-switch connector terminals with clutch-lever OUT and SQUEEZED-IN. What's the numbers?
My multi-meter is an auto-ranging one, but I was able to get some readings this time:

1) with kickstand down It showed 0.L, then goes to 0.0 with kickstand up.

2) In neutral it showed 0.0 (if I’m doing this correct), then would jump to (~1.2mOhm or ~185kOhm) when in gear.
—each time I repeated this I would get results ~1.2mOhm (varying from 1.1-1.3), or I would get ~185kOhm (170-195).

3) 0.0, then after pressing clutch in It jumped to 8.0mOhm. I repeated this and got 7.0mOhm the second and then 5.7mOhm the 3rd time.


Are these values more helpful? My apologies I must have been doing something wrong, I think I might have been mixing up the clutch/neutral (changing the gear while measuring clutch switch and vise versa).


Anyways, I really appreciate you taking the time to respond and help out Danno (especially the patience haha), can’t thank you enough!

Edit: Same results with headlights btw. One never changed, and the other would slowly fluctuate from 0.0-0.5 (favoring 0.2-0.3). I had the points of the multimeter touching directly on each prong of the bulb.
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Old July 4th, 2018, 10:04 PM   #26
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MOTM - Nov '17
What year is your bike? The safety-interlock logic with clutch/neutral/kickstand switches varies depending upon year.

Ok, from your tests, it appears your meter reading means following:

0.L = open-circuit, infinite resistance & ohms, no continuity
0.0 = closed-circuit, zero-ohms, full-continuity

Let's re-visit some previous tests:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zww1019 View Post
2: The headlight bulbs; one jumped around a lot at first and settled on 0.00Ohm. The other one slowly skipped around from 0.0Ohm to 0.3Ohm
Which bulb read 0.0 ohms? The low-beam or high-beam? Whichever one it is, toss it; shorted internally. That's why your headlight fuse has been blowing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zww1019 View Post
Edit 2: Ive only checked fuses by looking at them, and It looks fine. If i put the multimeter on It “Ohm”, It fluctuates then shows “0.L”
I think this shows your 30-amp fuse on starter-solenoid is blown! Measure it again. It should be OK if you're getting 11v at ignition-switch. Although you really should be getting full battery voltage.
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Old July 5th, 2018, 09:35 AM   #27
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It’s a 2008, and it’s the left bulb (low beam I think?) that reads 0.

I measured the 30A fuse again. 90% if the time I get 0.0Ohm, so it seems to be working somewhat..But 1 of 10 times when I put the probes in different places on the fuse it may display a 0.L, show a random number (like 2.2Ohm), or jump around a little (I made sure nothing else touched the fuse prongs aside from the multimeter probe to interfere with the readings). Regardless I’ll obviously replace It.

So for now, I’ll replace the 30A fuse and the headlight. Anything else? And is It normal for the Resistance readings to vary as much as they do on my switches?

I went to Autozone and they’ll give me store credit for the 3306A multimeter, but the only other one they had was the 3306N like you sent me and since it’s not the auto-ranging I didn’t want It haha
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Old July 5th, 2018, 10:25 AM   #28
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MOTM - Nov '17
Bring your wonky fuse into Autozone and measure it with their 3306N. Sometimes auto-ranging doesn't work very well. The clutch switch is also concern, should be 0.0 or 0.L, nothing in between.
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Old July 5th, 2018, 11:04 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Bring your wonky fuse into Autozone and measure it with their 3306N. Sometimes auto-ranging doesn't work very well. The clutch switch is also concern, should be 0.0 or 0.L, nothing in between.
Alright, thanks. I’ll do that. I was intimidated by the fact that the 3306N is not auto ranging.

So when I have the multimeter points on the two outside prongs of the clutch switch 47D29B91-5C66-48BF-9631-1258D4DE1FAE.jpeg, then press the clutch button in, It shouldn’t show a number? Like I mentioned, when I did this It showed 8.0. Then I released the clutch button and it went back to 0, pressed again It went to 7, and then 5.7 the last time (slowing fluctuating around those values).
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Old July 8th, 2018, 04:28 PM   #30
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I am basically having the same problem I believe my problem is in my ignition wiring harness because I was able to jump the bike and get it to turn over but is soon as I took the cables off the bike would die and my dash lights would either be very dim or off but upon wiggling the ignition wire the dash lights would come back on and then the bike would crank went to crank my bike this morning and I can’t get the lights to come on on the dash at all so now my bike won’t start I’ve been riding this way for about six months daily and all I would have to do is wiggle the wire you might want to try doing that I believe the short is in one of the wires but I cannot find a wiring diagram and this is my only vehicle I ride it daily basically bought it a year ago with 5000 miles and just now hit 25,000 miles and if I’m able to figure it out I will let you know
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Old July 8th, 2018, 04:31 PM   #31
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Which wire do you wiggle? can you post photo?
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Old July 11th, 2018, 04:34 AM   #32
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Yeah I was thinking possibly something with the ignition wiring since the button does nothing itself, but I haven’t found anything and wiggling the wires didn’t help.

I did replace the 30A fuse anyway (autozone said It was fine), but still haven’t been able to start It aside from jumping the solenoid
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Old July 11th, 2018, 07:22 AM   #33
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MOTM - Nov '17
Let’s have you trace power:

- what is battery voltage?
- what is voltage at ignition-switch on white wire?
- with key ON, what is voltage at input wire to kill-switch?
- with key ON, kill-switch on RUN, what is voltage at input wire to START button?
- with START button pressed, what is voltage on output wire?
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Old July 12th, 2018, 01:25 PM   #34
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Here's a walkthrough of how the starter relay circuit goes. You should be able to narrow down which part is bad just by seeing where you do and don't have 12V.
  1. White wire carries power from the Main fuse up to the keyswitch.
  2. When turned on, power goes out the brown wire to the fusebox.
  3. Then through the Ignition fuse and out the brown/black.
  4. That goes into the kill switch.
  5. Power goes out on the red wire and back into the starter button.
  6. Then out on the black/red and into Diode B.
  7. Out on the blue wire and into the starter circuit relay.
  8. Yellow/red is power out of the relay into the solenoid.

You should be able to check for 12V between any of those points and ground, to figure out where the breakdown in the circuit is.

If the bike starts and runs when jumpering the solenoid, you know that the parts necessary for the bike to run are working. The red wire out of the kill switch also feeds the coils, so you know everything works up to #5.

At this point, it has to be the starter button, diode B, the starter circuit relay, or the wiring between those. If you have power on black/red when pushing the starter button, the button is good. If you also have power on blue, you know the diode is also good.

The starter circuit relay's coil grounds through the safety switches. If those aren't working properly, then the relay won't operate when the blue wire is powered. When it's "safe" the yellow/green wire at the relay should be grounded. If you're not getting ground there in neutral or with the sidestand up and the clutch pulled, you have a problem with the safety switches/circuits.
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Old July 12th, 2018, 03:20 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InvisiBill View Post
Here's a walkthrough of how the starter relay circuit goes. You should be able to narrow down which part is bad just by seeing where you do and don't have 12V.
  1. White wire carries power from the Main fuse up to the keyswitch.
  2. When turned on, power goes out the brown wire to the fusebox.
  3. Then through the Ignition fuse and out the brown/black.
  4. That goes into the kill switch.
  5. Power goes out on the red wire and back into the starter button.
  6. Then out on the black/red and into Diode B.
  7. Out on the blue wire and into the starter circuit relay.
  8. Yellow/red is power out of the relay into the solenoid.
...
The starter circuit relay's coil grounds through the safety switches. If those aren't working properly, then the relay won't operate when the blue wire is powered. When it's "safe" the yellow/green wire at the relay should be grounded. If you're not getting ground there in neutral or with the sidestand up and the clutch pulled, you have a problem with the safety switches/circuits.
Yep, note that ground of starter-circuit relay's AND starter-solenoid activation coils are in boolen-logic and/or circuit involving diode-A, neutral-gear switch, kickstand switch and clutch-switch. Any one of those being incorrect will prevent the starter-circuit relay from activating and sending +12v to starter-solenoid and prevent starter-solenoid from activating even IF it received +12v..

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; July 12th, 2018 at 07:44 PM.
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Old July 12th, 2018, 03:45 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zww1019 View Post
So when I have the multimeter points on the two outside prongs of the clutch switch Attachment 44973, then press the clutch button in, It shouldn’t show a number? Like I mentioned, when I did this It showed 8.0. Then I released the clutch button and it went back to 0, pressed again It went to 7, and then 5.7 the last time (slowing fluctuating around those values).
Might be defective clutch-switch. Should be as follows:

0.0 = Clutch-lever squeezed/clutch-switch button IN = contact ON, zero-ohms, full continuity
0.L = Clutch-lever released/clutch-switch button OUT = contact OFF, infinite-ohms, no/zero continuity

In order for ground of activation coil of starter-circuit relay AND activation-coil of starter-solenoid to work, all three of these must be in this state at SAME time:

neutral-gear switch = 0.0 ohms/full-continuity to chassis-ground
sidestand switch = 0.0 ohms/full-continuity between switch terminals
clutch switch = = 0.0 ohms/full-continuity between switch terminals
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Old July 12th, 2018, 07:57 PM   #37
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MOTM - Aug '15
Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Almost. Note that ground of starter-circuit relay's AND starter-solenoid activation coils are in boolen-logic and/or circuit involving diode-A, neutral-gear switch, kickstand switch and clutch-switch. Any one of those being incorrect will prevent the starter-circuit relay from activating and sending +12v to starter-solenoid and prevent starter-solenoid from activating even IF it received +12v..
According to the wiring diagram, the starter circuit relay coil grounds via either the neutral switch (yellow/green > diode A > light green > neutral switch) or the clutch switch & sidestand switch (yellow/green > clutch switch > green/white > sidestand switch > black/yellow).

The igniter can ground through the neutral switch* (green/black > diode A > yellow/green > diode A > light green > neutral switch), and also directly through the sidestand switch (green/black > diode A > green/white > sidestand switch > black/yellow). This allows it to keep running when you have it in gear with the clutch released (i.e. while you're riding it).

The solenoid coil is just the yellow/red from the relay output and the common black/yellow ground.

*Technically it forks off the yellow/green wire, so the clutch & sidestand would also work just like for the starter, but the sidestand switch already directly enables it alone, so it's a moot point.
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Old July 13th, 2018, 02:17 AM   #38
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MOTM - Nov '17
You're correct. Sorry, i've been looking at wrong diagram.
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Old July 17th, 2018, 10:40 PM   #39
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[*]Power goes out on the red wire and back into the starter button.[*]Then out on the black/red and into Diode B.[*]Out on the blue wire and into the starter circuit relay.[*]Yellow/red is power out of the relay into the solenoid.[/LIST]
You should be able to check for 12V between any of those points and ground, to figure out where the breakdown in the circuit is.

If the bike starts and runs when jumpering the solenoid, you know that the parts necessary for the bike to run are working. The red wire out of the kill switch also feeds the coils, so you know everything works up to #5.

At this point, it has to be the starter button, diode B, the starter circuit relay, or the wiring between those. If you have power on black/red when pushing the starter button, the button is good. If you also have power on blue, you know the diode is also good.
I’m confused here; with the steps after 5. Which black/red and blue wire are you talking about? In the back of my ignition button there is a yellow/red and a red wire. In the back of my starter relay there is a yellow/red, black/yellow and white wire (only the white wire from the starter relay has power with or without the ignition button pressed). (Edit: and both wires from the ignition button have power, so we know that It is good)

Last futzed with by Zww1019; Yesterday at 04:36 AM.
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