Clutch Issue Help Please! R6

[RandomPhantom]

Hey there guys in need of some help and advice on some issues my friend has been having with his 2006 R6 (37K miles). Sorry i know this is for ninjas only but i cant register for the R6 forums for some reason.

So first issue, his ignition cylinder is hard to turn with the key in any position (on, off, lock) he doesnt have oem key but instead its a copy. Replace ignition or WD40 into the key slot?

Second issue, with his clutch PULLED IN and bike is in 1st gear it doesnt fully disengage (still creeps forward) *NOTE it doesnt happen all the time sometimes when the bike has been ridden this problem disappears all together but at the same time comes back randomly. I checked his clutch lever free play and its not loose either.

Third issue, for his bike its really really hard to put into neutral with the engine running (shift lever will be rock solid hard and you would need to force it up and that would just skip neutral and go into second), but kill the engine and you can shift it into neutral easily.All his other gears shifts no problem ONLY NEUTRAL is extremely hard to find *NOTE like the clutch problem once the bike has been ridden some and i guess warm its easier to find neutral but still not that easy.

Any advice on this would be well appreciated! I suspect for the clutch issue he just needs to have his clutch cable both on the lever side and engine side adjusted properly. But for his neutral finding issue I am guessing it could be clutch plates or his transmission in general (shift fork maybe?)

[06blackpearl]

When was the oil changed ? Correct weight? How the bike ridden? Could be bent shift fork.. Could be that the Clutches are slipping and need replacing , at 30k most have went throught at least 1 set..

Don't put wd40 in ignition use graphite spray.. The key could have been cut incorrect or slightly off..

[RandomPhantom]

Originally Posted by 06blackpearl

When was the oil changed ? Correct weight? How the bike ridden? Could be bent shift fork.. Could be that the Clutches are slipping and need replacing , at 30k most have went throught at least 1 set..

Don't put wd40 in ignition use graphite spray.. The key could have been cut incorrect or slightly off..

He recently bought the bike from a private seller so god knows when the oil has been changed. And ridden as in just riding normally up until the engine is warmed up and operating at about 194 degrees.

[06blackpearl]

The clucth cable or hydrauli

If the bikes moving forward while pulled in it needs adjusting .. Start at the basket then go to clucth perch..

If I was him I would have it at a shop to be checked out.. Oil changed and clucthes inspected... Also if you have aftermarket levers sometimes the cheap ones cause issues!

[RandomPhantom]

Originally Posted by 06blackpearl

The clucth cable or hydrauli

If the bikes moving forward while pulled in it needs adjusting .. Start at the basket then go to clucth perch..

If I was him I would have it at a shop to be checked out.. Oil changed and clucthes inspected... Also if you have aftermarket levers sometimes the cheap ones cause issues!

No aftermarket lever on his bike, but it is bent inward indicating the bike has been dropped. Ill tell him to do the oil change first then adjust the cables for him to the correct spec following the repair manual. As far as checking out the clutch goes how do you measure thickness or is it just a visual inspection of the friction plate?

[06blackpearl]

Originally Posted by RandomPhantom

No aftermarket lever on his bike, but it is bent inward indicating the bike has been dropped. Ill tell him to do the oil change first then adjust the cables for him to the correct spec following the repair manual. As far as checking out the clutch goes how do you measure thickness or is it just a visual inspection of the friction plate?

Visually the fibers will be worn out or gone/broke etc.. The steels will
Be scorched and worn also..

Inspecting them would require a caliper to read thickness and refer to shop manual specs..
But again at 37k miles and it was a private sale they probably need replacing.. The fiber and steels are shot and the more you ride on damaged clucthes the more you will damage the clutch basket making the job more expensive

[RandomPhantom]

I see ill do the simple stuff first. then go on to inspect clutch plates if it doesnt help any. And also if the reason its hard to find neutral how can you determine if its a tranny issue or clutch plate issue?

[06blackpearl]

Originally Posted by RandomPhantom

I see ill do the simple stuff first. then go on to inspect clutch plates if it doesnt help any. And also if the reason its hard to find neutral how can you determine if its a tranny issue or clutch plate issue?

Tranny issues will require you to open the bottom end.. No other way.. But u can remove oil pan and see gears but your limited visually unless motor is out of bike ...
But check the clutches first and cable if clutches are bad change them and the oil.

[RandomPhantom]

Originally Posted by 06blackpearl

Tranny issues will require you to open the bottom end.. No other way.. But u can remove oil pan and see gears but your limited visually unless motor is out of bike ...
But check the clutches first and cable if clutches are bad change them and the oil.

will do man thank you very much blackpearl for the help! i appreciate it man, Ill update once the oil change and clutch adjustment is done

[06blackpearl]

Your welcome!

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by RandomPhantom

....... Any advice on this would be well appreciated! I suspect for the clutch issue he just needs to have his clutch cable both on the lever side and engine side adjusted properly. But for his neutral finding issue I am guessing it could be clutch plates..........

If the clutch has been abused and hence overheated, chances are that the steel plates are twisted.
When this happens, they keep touching and dragging the fiber plates when the lever is fully pressed.

If the clutch has had a lot of use, sometimes the grooves in which the plate's fingers slide develop dents.
When that happens, the free axial movement of each plate while the clutch is rotating is restricted and a similar dragging phenomena happens.

Either one makes finding Neutral very difficult as the transmission parts remain under load when shifting.

If replacing the oil with the recommended grade does not solve the problem, your friend my need a clutch disassemble and inspection.

For general directions, see:
http://www.dansmc.com/clutches.htm

http://s135.photobucket.com/user/lon...lutch.jpg.html

[csmith12]

Yep, about 30k you should be lookin' at a new clutch. Hopefully you just have a simple problem, but it's coming either way. I have to do mine this season. Losing first gear.

The key advice is pretty good. Now... r6's are known to have some ignition wear that makes the key switch a bit finicky. No amount of lube or keys will fix it either. An old school locksmith can make a key that will minimize the issue, but it will still be there. If you find this tradesmith, have him make you 2 keys, if not 3.

[RandomPhantom]

Originally Posted by Motofool

If the clutch has been abused and hence overheated, chances are that the steel plates are twisted.
When this happens, they keep touching and dragging the fiber plates when the lever is fully pressed.

If the clutch has had a lot of use, sometimes the grooves in which the plate's fingers slide develop dents.
When that happens, the free axial movement of each plate while the clutch is rotating is restricted and a similar dragging phenomena happens.

Either one makes finding Neutral very difficult as the transmission parts remain under load when shifting.

If replacing the oil with the recommended grade does not solve the problem, your friend my need a clutch disassemble and inspection.

For general directions, see:
http://www.dansmc.com/clutches.htm

http://s135.photobucket.com/user/lon...lutch.jpg.html

Originally Posted by csmith12

Yep, about 30k you should be lookin' at a new clutch. Hopefully you just have a simple problem, but it's coming either way. I have to do mine this season. Losing first gear.

The key advice is pretty good. Now... r6's are known to have some ignition wear that makes the key switch a bit finicky. No amount of lube or keys will fix it either. An old school locksmith can make a key that will minimize the issue, but it will still be there. If you find this tradesmith, have him make you 2 keys, if not 3.

Thank you both for the very helpful advice. I will update once the basics have been done and hopefully that will help fix the issue. And if not then it's time to take off the clutch cover and inspect it! Thank you motofool for the very help and informative read on clutches mate! And thank you csmith12 for that piece of advice on the ignition key issue. I personally didnt know that modern R6s are known to have ignition wear like that either. Team Kawi all the way haha

[Motofool]

You are welcome, Tony