SOS ('03 ninja 250)

[Caliboy2010]

In Berkeley Ca, I recently was shifting into first at a stop and heart a clunk and ever since it has been BOUNCING when i'm in gear (any gear), in nuetral it's perfectly fine (including at speed when i pull in clutch). I checked the two outer sprockets and neither are missing teeth. I am 100% sure it's in the transmission. I have never worked on the transmission or even have any idea how to start on it. The bike is driveable but I'm trying to avoid driving whenever possible. I can hear the broken bit rattling around in the transmission when i pull in my clutch to come to a stop, and it's not a pleasant feeling

If anyone has any helpful places i can go to get it fixed, or any spare transmissions laying around... I work 60 hours a week as a dishwasher at a restaurant and don't have any free time and I NEED it fixed asap or my summer is going to turn into a hell hole.

Feel free to pm me or comment!

[CZroe]

Oh boy. I've been in similar situations where I needed my bike fixed ASAP but had too many obligations and not enough money.

Good luck!

[csmith12]

Good luck from da KY!

[alex.s]

since it is in any gear and not in specific gears, it is probably not the transmission. more likely the outer clutch hub gear which connects the engine to the clutch/transmission

[Caliboy2010]

It is specifically worst in 1st gear (happened when i was getting into first), but can be felt in all gears... (seeing as if you look at the internal workings of the transmission it uses all some of the same inside gears for multiple different gears (1-6).. I could try checking the clutch first and if that's not it then i'll have to check the tranny. does anyone have a tutorial for clutch access and replacement?

[j98sprint]

I know you don't want to hear this but.....get a manual and start reading.

j98sprint

[Caliboy2010]

Alright, where can i get a manual that can help me out?

[PHMCS]

official 86-07 ex250 factory service manual: (Part #99924-1066-01)
official 88-07 ex250 manual supplement: (Part #99924-1109-66)

http://www.ronayers.com/SM-EX250EF-E...-P4210780.aspx
Service manual: $28.31 at ronayers.com

http://www.ronayers.com/SM-SUPP-EX250F-P4210934.aspx
supplemental manual: $25.88 ar ronayers.com

An inquiry with uncle google should also reveal a digitally scanned version, but you have legality/possibly incomplete aspect issues to deal with on that route.

Good luck with the repairs/diagnosis!

[Ninjinsky]

important note Sorry for the bad news but The bike is not "still driveable". If there is a sizeable chunk of metal roaming around in there sooner or later it is going to jam the gears and lock your back wheel.
and you won't like that when it happens

Is that $200 craig list engine we were discussing last week still around? It might be quicker to buy it and swap, you can then fix yours at your leisure and sell one or the other later to recover the cost.
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=186159
Okay it's in Atlanta but check ebay, breakers etc'

[Caliboy2010]

I think that would have happened by now, since i drove my bike from weed california to berkeley california (5 hour drive) with no problem of that kind... I am unsure as to if it really is the transmission... and i have ordered the manuals but they are in the mail.It could be as simple as the clutch.... When my bike is not warmed up, if i pull in the clutch lever all the way and downshift into first my bike always dies. ... thoughts?

[Ninjinsky]

Can you be a bit more clear what you mean by "bouncing" like at what rate, up and down or back and forth?
Does it change rate if you change gear at constant speed?
Just try trying to model the behavior in my head

[Caliboy2010]

It's forward and backward, and i can't recall if it's worse at higher or lower rpms, or speeds for that matter.... but I'll go out for a quick test here shortly and get back to you.

[Caliboy2010]

Also trying to find a good clutch kit because I'm sure it's well overdue for a clutch replacement regardless, any advice on where to get one for a good price?

[fishdip]

Originally Posted by Caliboy2010

I think that would have happened by now, since i drove my bike from weed california to berkeley california (5 hour drive) with no problem of that kind... I am unsure as to if it really is the transmission... and i have ordered the manuals but they are in the mail.It could be as simple as the clutch.... When my bike is not warmed up, if i pull in the clutch lever all the way and downshift into first my bike always dies. ... thoughts?

Just because it has not happened dose not mean it can not happen and or you are doing more harm.

[Caliboy2010]

I know i'm doing more harm but i HAD to get down here from oregon, so i had no choice. I'm replacing the clutch plates/springs and doing an oil change sometime this week and we'll see if that helps with anything, it's well overdue for one, seeing as my ride has got 33k miles on it... YIKES

[Caliboy2010]

Update. So at constant speed it does it and seems more serious at higher rpm(lower gear at same speed)

[DaBlue1]

Any serious transmission damage will be evident by metal shavings in the oil. If you drain the oil and remove the oil screen you will see it.

Also what is the condition of your chain? Is it tight in spots and loose in others?
If so this can also cause damage (bushings in particular). You should get the rear wheels off the ground and inspect the chain and rotate the wheel to see if there is any resistance while turning the wheel in neutral.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by alex.s

since it is in any gear and not in specific gears, it is probably not the transmission. more likely the outer clutch hub gear which connects the engine to the clutch/transmission

It is a clutch or crankshaft related problem; forget about the transmission.

Take a look at this:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=182263

When you pull that lever, the cable twists that 13102 shaft-cam (coming up from the top of the right cover).
Then the 46102 clutch rod pulls everything out against the resistance of the clutch springs and the crankshaft's bearings.
Then, the ugly noise appears.

The solution may be as simple as changing the oil.

[Caliboy2010]

I will check the oil and clutch asap and report back

[Caliboy2010]

Also My radiator fan does not work, I've replaced fan itself, didn't fix it, checked the fuse(which was good) and need to know what to replace next.... The thermostat switch or the water sensor plug or thermostat....?

[Caliboy2010]

Should i invest in anything else in the clutch other than the springs, and the friction and steel plates?

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Caliboy2010

Also My radiator fan does not work, I've replaced fan itself, didn't fix it, checked the fuse(which was good) and need to know what to replace next.... The thermostat switch or the water sensor plug or thermostat....?

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...ling_system%3F

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...ping_clutch%3F

[Caliboy2010]

Is that switch the one that goes into the radiator or the one that goes into the thermostat housing?

[Caliboy2010]

Here you can see the diagram, is it 27010 or 92066.... I would rather not waste the extra 30-$45

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Caliboy2010

......... is it 27010 or 92066....

27010 is the switch that commands the fan.

Don't go crazy buying parts that may be OK; explore and test first.

Follow my previous links for ways to test it.

[Caliboy2010]

Thank you sir, and yeah i'm on a budget. I'll do the oil change, clutch replacement, and thermostat fix next time i get a few days off work (probably the 5th of july) and report back!

[Caliboy2010]

Another thing that was wrong... Chain was stretched far too far and had many kinks and rust... (bought a replacement one and a chain breaker tool) I want to buy new sprockets with my chain so that it wears evenly, where can i get a 15t front sprocket with the 2 wholes which are grooved the same as the bolts for the sprocket holder?

[CZroe]

Part numbers:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_re...t_Part_Numbers

Replace "xx" with 15 for 15-tooth.

[Brother Michigan]

Originally Posted by Caliboy2010

Another thing that was wrong... Chain was stretched far too far and had many kinks and rust... (bought a replacement one and a chain breaker tool) I want to buy new sprockets with my chain so that it wears evenly, where can i get a 15t front sprocket with the 2 wholes which are grooved the same as the bolts for the sprocket holder?

Buy some chain lube to go with it or you're going to be buying another new one soon enough.

[Caliboy2010]

Thanks guys, hopefully all my parts will be here by thursday since i have thursday and friday off work....

[Caliboy2010]

So all was fixed, but the problem was actually just the chain that caused the lurching and such... a new problem has arose....

After my most recent oil change I have come to the realization that the threading in my oil drain bolt is stripped, not the bolt itself but the inner threading, what can I do? If anything....

[Sirref]

Originally Posted by Caliboy2010

So all was fixed, but the problem was actually just the chain that caused the lurching and such... a new problem has arose....

After my most recent oil change I have come to the realization that the threading in my oil drain bolt is stripped, not the bolt itself but the inner threading, what can I do? If anything....

you mean where the bolt goes correct

if so then this product is designed for you: http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/...r-Blue-242.htm

[Caliboy2010]

I was thinking more of a rethreader...

[Sirref]

Originally Posted by Caliboy2010

I was thinking more of a rethreader...

you're probably right on that idea, I forgot those were made

[Brother Michigan]

I have heard here on the boards recently that the metal on the oil pan is too thin to have new threads cut (probably possible, just not advisable.) Might want to look into getting another. Someone who knows better feel free to correct me.

[Caliboy2010]

Getting another what?

[Brother Michigan]

The oil drain assembly. It's part number 14090-1350 for your bike, I believe.

[Caliboy2010]

Well for now, i drilled it out and rethreaded it... now it's a 14mm drain bolt instead of the stock 12... I flushed the oil through with a few older oils and then a quart of new oil, completely drained it, and put the new plug in and a new oil filter and new oil. I'll check tomorrow to see if any oil drained overnight...

[Caliboy2010]

Still leaking oil, the drain plug gasket that came with the 14mm plug is not a rubber oring and that could be the problem, i'll be going to buy new oil and a 14mm oring today to see if that does the trick

[infinitewhiskey]

If you cannot get that drain plug to stop leaking, there is another option.

You can completely seal up that drain plug (clean up all the oil, JB weld, and safety wire) and purchase the oil drain plug assembly from the newer generation ninjette. Everything is a direct fit so it's just a bolt on application. The only downside is that it reduces your clearance but it shouldn't matter unless you're jumping curbs. There is a guide somewhere on the faq.