March 10th, 2009, 12:49 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Yuri
Location: Happey Valley
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250 Posts: 57
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DIY - Sato Rearsets Installation
Since kkim covered clip-ons I figured a DIY for rearsets will round of the list nicely.
I'm placing this in this the tech talk just because the clip-ons are here however if this is better suited for farkles feel free to move it. To start off you obviously need rearsets This is almost everything that came with the set, a small tube of loctite is also thrown in. Before we begin another picture just for fun... the bike about as naked as it gets I began by changing the left side first, it doesn't really matter which side goes first. Begin by removing the two screws circled in red below The footrest will now be connected only by the shift rod, simply unscrew the rod closest to the crankcase and you'll be able to completely remove the footrest with shift rod. Next screw in your new shift rod into the connector Now it's time to assemble the rearset First start off by connecting the the fin like piece to the rearset with the 2 small M6 hex bolts provided (circled in red below). Now connect the pegs to the rearset, there are 5 positions to choose from here, I chose the middle most position. A black spacer needs to be placed on the reverse side of the rearset. The bolt should be torqued to 17 ft lb. Now it's time to mount the rearset to the bike, 2 thick spacers need to be placed on the reverse side of the rearset and some loctite placed on the bolts. You should now have the rearset on the bike like pictured below. Make sure when mounting the rearset that you keep the shift lever above the sidestand, once the rearset is on if the lever is below the stand you can't connect it to the shift rod. If you look in the picture below I made that mistake first time around. Now it's time to connect the shift rod to the rearset, a special bolt with a copper spacer is provided for that. Here is how it should be connected. And one final image of the rearset installed, all that's left now is adjusting the lever height.
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Yoshimura CF Full System, Dynojet Jet Kit, Kleen Air System Removed, Woodcraft Clip-Ons, Sato Rear Sets, Galfer SS Brake Lines, 15/44 Sprocket Combo, Home Made Fender Eliminator |
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March 10th, 2009, 12:51 PM | #2 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Yuri
Location: Happey Valley
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250 Posts: 57
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Now to do the other side
Start off by unscrewing the 4 bolts circled in red below, this will disconnect the brake master cylinder from the footrest and disconnect the footrest from the frame. Also remove the brake light switch from the footrest and disconnect the spring The footrest will now be connected to the master cylinder, loosen a small nut at the end of the brake pedal and unscrew the footrest from the master cylinder. I then loosened the bolt holding the brake line to the master cylinder and turned the MC around. Which looked something like this. At this point I assembled the rearset just like for the other side by first attaching the fin like piece and then putting on the footpeg. After that I mounted the rearset to the frame again just like for the opposite side. This time the thinner spacers are placed on the reverse side of the rearset and loctite is added to the bolts once again. This is a mock up of what the rearset would look like if I had kept stock brakelines. If I was doing this I would disconnect the brake line and turn it around to avoid the awkward angle at which it sticks up. Also I would reroute the thicker black hose going up to the fluid reservoir behind the brake line. With the rearset now mounted it's time to connect the brakes. Here I ran into my only gripe with the Sato set. For whatever reason a return spring to place over the brake switch is not included, for $8 it seems like something that should be thrown in. It's a small price to pay and way better than constantly locking the brakes. Here is a picture of the spring going over the switch on the master cylinder, the nut on the bottom is the stock nut from when footrest was removed. The nut on the top is used to adjust brake lever height. Now it's time to screw on the little arm to connect the pedal to the brakes. Now you place the thin end of the little arm into a slot at the rear of the brake pedal, slide on the provided washer and slip the e-clip into the groove. Next you need to connect the the master cylinder to the rearsets, 2 small M6 hex bolts are provided for this, the top screw is 20mm long and the bottom is 15mm. These 2 bolts are circled in red below. Now the last thing that is left is to make sure that the brake light switch works. Instead of using the stock bolt that goes through the banjo a pressure sensor is provided to replace it. The instructions now call to cut the cable from the original brake light switch and to use the provided connectors to go over the cut wires and to connect them to the wires on the pressure sensor. Instead here is what I did, I believe it yielded a cleaner result. I removed the brake light switch from its connection at the wire harness. Looking into the connector there are 2 small protrusions on the metal portions that can be pushed flat with a small screwdriver. This allows you to pull the wires out of the plastic connector, which you can then recycle. I used a small pair of scissors to make 2 small cuts on either side of the covering over the wires from the pressure sensor, I then pushed those wires into the plastic connector as far as they would go. A little electric tape over the new connection I just made and then I pushed the new connector back into the wire harness. The brake lights now work from the rear brake as well. Some people may not be concerned with this and not bother connecting the pressure sensor, I feel that it's important to have so I went ahead and connected the brake lights. If using the pressure sensor to replace the stock bolt it's important to bleed the rear brake now. If sticking with just the stock bolt it may be possible that the brake doesn't need to be bled, I would do it just to be safe. One final image of the rearset completely installed. As I was installing this I found that I can no longer use the heat shield from my exhaust because the rear of the break pedal where it connects to the master cylinder gets stuck with the brakes fully applied when the heat shield is present. Even without the shield there is not much room between the exhaust and rearset.
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Yoshimura CF Full System, Dynojet Jet Kit, Kleen Air System Removed, Woodcraft Clip-Ons, Sato Rear Sets, Galfer SS Brake Lines, 15/44 Sprocket Combo, Home Made Fender Eliminator |
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March 10th, 2009, 12:52 PM | #3 |
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Great job! I'll add it to the sticky thread right now...
I wasn't sure where to add it in there, it seems like Cosmetic Mods was closest, so I put it there with the clip-ons, but both the clip-ons and the rearsets seem to be more than cosmetic. If anyone has suggestions for a new category in that sticky, or if they feel this should be moved to a different existing category, I'm all ears.
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March 10th, 2009, 01:08 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Yuri!
Good write up. Was this through Dan Kyle? He was so indignant that everything was supplied with Sato rearsets... I guess he forgot about that return spring. I take it you have not ridden it yet? ...and please tell me that's not your garage you're working in. Alex, under "frame and suspension"? I agree the rearsets and clipons are more than cosmetic changes. |
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March 10th, 2009, 01:12 PM | #5 |
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March 10th, 2009, 01:28 PM | #6 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Yuri
Location: Happey Valley
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250 Posts: 57
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Quote:
No that's my kitchen, when I started this about 3 weeks ago it was way too cold to be in my garage. As far as riding it I've only got a few test drive miles under my belt. At first it felt that the footpegs were too far back, this is in position 3 which is 30mm(or cm I don't remember) higher and 20mm further back than stock. This was after expecting my feet to be where they had been with the stock pegs. After coming to the realization that my pegs are now indeed further back and adjusting my riding position a bit they felt perfectly comfortable. I had to slide back from the tank a little bit, which dropped my knees a little and made my legs go back a bit. Also I found that the shift lever was a bit closer to the footpeg. I didn't have to slide my foot as much to get the tip of the lever on my toes. The brake lever also feels a little shorter but the feel of it is comparable to stock. At this point I just need to adjust the shift lever a bit as my boot was getting stuck between the peg and lever.
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Yoshimura CF Full System, Dynojet Jet Kit, Kleen Air System Removed, Woodcraft Clip-Ons, Sato Rear Sets, Galfer SS Brake Lines, 15/44 Sprocket Combo, Home Made Fender Eliminator |
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March 10th, 2009, 01:34 PM | #7 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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thanks for your feedback. I'm waiting for a set of extender plates, so I like your comment about moving you back a bit from the tank. I think the clipons pull you too far forward with the stock peg location. it will be great to experiment a bit with the different adjustment positions.
mahalo for taking the time for the DIY. |
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March 10th, 2009, 01:51 PM | #8 | |
Not on the rug... man
Name: Greg
Location: London
Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Diablo Black Ninja 250r, 2009 Triumph Daytona 675 Special Edition Posts: 86
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Quote:
Are you sure about the placement of that collar? For me at least, the peg seems too narrow without it and if you have the collar on the peg side you can just about take the bolt in and out, which means you can adjust the rear peg position without having to remove the whole unit. I mean, they tell ya to loctite all the bolts in place, but to change peg positions you gotta undo the same bolts. Without riding it, how you gonna know which of the 5 positions suits you best. Doesn't make sense that you have to remove the whole unit to change peg positions again.
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Ohlins Shock,Sato Rearset,Woodcraft Clipons,Pazzo Levers.Skidmarx-Hugger/DB Screen,RG Racing-Crash Protector/Tail Tidy,Camera,HIDs,LEDs Full Yoshi,Dynojet PC3,Urbane Intake,Bergman Spin On Oil Filter |
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March 10th, 2009, 02:28 PM | #9 |
Fighting Texas Aggie '05
Name: Neil
Location: Hutto, TX
Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '07 ZX6R, '08 Versys, '09 250R Track, '93 F2/F3 Track Posts: A lot.
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wow - those look like a huge improvement in style, feel, and function over the stockers - good job
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March 10th, 2009, 05:03 PM | #10 |
IC2(SW)
Name: Kerry
Location: Pensacola
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: A lot.
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^ what he said..... looks like the spacer should be with the peg, otherwise they would have given you a shorter bolt . God knows sato doesnt have very good directions, they do have nice pictures thou
Rearsets look real nice |
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March 14th, 2009, 12:10 PM | #11 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Yuri
Location: Happey Valley
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250 Posts: 57
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I went back and double checked the schematic, you guys are absolutely right the spacers go on the same side as the peg.
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Yoshimura CF Full System, Dynojet Jet Kit, Kleen Air System Removed, Woodcraft Clip-Ons, Sato Rear Sets, Galfer SS Brake Lines, 15/44 Sprocket Combo, Home Made Fender Eliminator |
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March 14th, 2009, 12:25 PM | #12 |
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Wow! Great pictures! I just glanced through and I almost feel like I know how to do it. Good job.
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March 14th, 2009, 04:57 PM | #13 |
IC2(SW)
Name: Kerry
Location: Pensacola
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: A lot.
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October 2nd, 2009, 02:53 PM | #14 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Nick
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Join Date: Oct 2009 Motorcycle(s): None yet... Posts: 8
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I need to replace the right side rearset on my 09 ninja 250, however, i don't want to drop 250 bucks on a billet, etc. racing style setup. i'm looking to spend anywhere from 25-75 dollars for a rearset that will fit the 09.
can you point me to a place on the internet that would help me accomplish this? will any year ninja rearset fit the 09's? most of them (visually) look like they would fit the assembly. here's a link to my predicament. do you think that my brake will be okay? http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2531/...58c977b0_o.jpg Thanks! and if you would be so kind to send any info to pawson.nick@gmail.com Nick |
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October 2nd, 2009, 03:11 PM | #15 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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why not just replace the stock, cracked bracket?
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October 2nd, 2009, 03:46 PM | #16 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Nick
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Join Date: Oct 2009 Motorcycle(s): None yet... Posts: 8
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to replace the braket would be about $90 (part only, not installation) from a local kawasaki dealer, which will do if i can't find anything better.
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October 2nd, 2009, 04:26 PM | #17 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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October 2nd, 2009, 04:52 PM | #18 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Nick
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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wow. i scoured ebay for one of those, but i guess i was looking for the wrong thing. thanks so much. i might end up going this route.
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February 8th, 2010, 12:40 AM | #19 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Don
Location: Thailand
Join Date: Jan 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R (FI) Posts: 21
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Return Spring
Hello Yuri - I am new to this site. I was wondering where you got that spring from? And won't it damage the rubber part of the master cylinder after repeated use? Thank you for a very useful DIY!!
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March 16th, 2010, 08:46 PM | #20 | |
voda?
Name: Dmitriy
Location: Bay Area, CA
Join Date: Oct 2009 Motorcycle(s): .... & a Ninja 250 duh Posts: 65
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Quote:
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April 26th, 2010, 01:35 AM | #21 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ed
Location: NJ
Join Date: Dec 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 250r Posts: 157
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I want to do this, but I'm hesitant because the rear brake situation looks like a project of its own. I guess what I want to know is how much of a hassle was it to do the right side?
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May 8th, 2012, 09:06 AM | #22 | |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Allan
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Quote:
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June 25th, 2018, 07:28 AM | #23 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Jaffer
Location: Vaughan
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So it's 2018 and I went ahead and bought these from eBay without doing my research. Lo and behold after 9 hours of trying to align the brake side right rearset, it obviously doesnt line up. Stumbled on this thread and got so happy knowing all I have to do is flip the MC. But then I spend 4 hours trying to loosen the nut that's on top of the MC but it's so tight that ir wouldnt budge. What do I do??
TLDR: Nut on top of the MC doesn't want to budge, too tight. Any recommendations? |
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June 25th, 2018, 09:33 AM | #24 |
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
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Answer is in your post in other thread.
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