Throttle handle issue...

[drunyon]

I just got done putting my carb back on, started up the bike and it seems to be running alright for now, but when I try to twist back on the throttle it's very very hard to and I noticed one of the cables seems very tight. What could be causing this and how can i fix it??

Maybe cable needs adjusting??
THnks!

[csmith12]

Lube, check for binding/kinks in the cable then adjust to spec/preference.

[BlueHairSar]

Two questions:

1.Does is there any wiggle room on the throttle before it starts to engage?
2. If you open the throttle (say to like 1/4 or half), and then release it, does it snap closed?

[drunyon]

Yeah I can pull back a little and it seems to snap back but its pretty tight. All I did was move the nuts enough to slip em off

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by drunyon

.....All I did was move the nuts enough to slip em off

What nuts?

Read this:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Throttl...is/re-assembly

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Lubing_the_cables

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Carburetor_photos

[drunyon]

Originally Posted by Motofool

What nuts?

Read this:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Throttl...is/re-assembly

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Lubing_the_cables

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Carburetor_photos

nuts on either end of the cable mount on the side of the carb.

[Motofool]

May be the cables went too much into the covers and jumped out of the proper position inside the handle.

[NathanUc]

Originally Posted by drunyon

Yeah I can pull back a little and it seems to snap back but its pretty tight. All I did was move the nuts enough to slip em off

You can use those nuts to adjust the play in your throttle. It's possible that you just have them positioned in a way that there is no slack in the throttle cable? A small adjustment in the up/down placement of those nuts makes a fairly large difference.

[drunyon]

I think mayb when I installed the cable back on I did it upside down the carb where the wire connects. I tried adjusting it a little and didn't seem to help throttle on the handle. Ill jhave to take the coolant reservoir off to check it more

[drunyon]

I loosened the nuts and tried adjusting a little but didnt seem to make a difference in the tightness of the throttle grip .
what else could it be?

[DaBlue1]

How well does the throttle return spring on the carb work? Are the cables binding on the bracket at all?

[drunyon]

yeah the spring seems to be working. I didnt notice any binding at all but maybe ill have to take the tank back off to check :-/.. just odd how its tight turning the grip, like i can only twist it maybe 1/4 at most.

[DaBlue1]

If you take the bracket off the carbs with the cables still attached and the cables are still tight, your problem is the cable routing/housing. If they don't bind it might be the cable return spring. It should snap pretty good.

[drunyon]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

If you take the bracket off the carbs with the cables still attached and the cables are still tight, your problem is the cable routing/housing. If they don't bind it might be the cable return spring. It should snap pretty good.

I had to take the cables off the bracket itself to get the old carb off. i was never able to get the bracket screw loose.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by drunyon

I loosened the nuts and tried adjusting a little but didnt seem to make a difference in the tightness of the throttle grip .
what else could it be?

Again, the problem seems to be in the handlebar rather than by the carbs.

This is a close system where a cable works against the other; there is no room for mistakes or slack.

If one of the cables jumped out of the groove in the handle, it will move more than the other when you twist the handle, reaching that binding point that you feel when the second cable starts fighting the movement of the first.

[drunyon]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Again, the problem seems to be in the handlebar rather than by the carbs.

This is a close system where a cable works against the other; there is no room for mistakes or slack.

If one of the cables jumped out of the groove in the handle, it will move more than the other when you twist the handle, reaching that binding point that you feel when the second cable starts fighting the movement of the first.

so it's possible for the cables to move out of the groove in the handle when I had the cables unhooked from the carb for a few minutes?

[Motofool]

Yes.

They are straight cables forced to bend around the handle and kept under certain pressure by the spring at the carbs and the lack of slack.

If you have not done it yet, check the links of post #5 for a how-to.

Great time to lubricate the cables from the top and the handle.

[drunyon]

Ill have to try and see about near the handles cause I didn't mess with em at all. I do remember when I took the cable off it retracted into the sheath quite a bit.

[drunyon]

Originally Posted by Motofool

What nuts?

Read this:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Throttl...is/re-assembly

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Lubing_the_cables

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Carburetor_photos

I am unsure of what im looking at. am i suppose to take the handlegrip off in order to check the cable? the carb moves when i turn the grip but after about 1/4 it wont go any farther bc some reason. Like i said when I took the cable off the carb itself, it retracted into the sheathe almost all the way, it left a small amount outside of it to where I could grab ahold of it. I really don't want to take the tank back off, and definitely not taking the air filter back off, stupid pod filter is a PITA to get on.

[Motofool]

In order to service the handle, you don't need to remove the tank or the filter.

Just two screws in the handle open it in two halves and the cables and guides are exposed.

[drunyon]

Originally Posted by Motofool

In order to service the handle, you don't need to remove the tank or the filter.

Just two screws in the handle open it in two halves and the cables and guides are exposed.

Ok i may check that out. I have a feeeling its not the handles. i never messed with it near the handle and the line in question retracted quite a bit after I removed it from the carb. it's weird

[Motofool]

If you prefer not opening the handle, disconnect the cables from the carb and have a friend twist the handle, while you measure how much each one goes in and out: both should be identical.

[drunyon]

Originally Posted by Motofool

If you prefer not opening the handle, disconnect the cables from the carb and have a friend twist the handle, while you measure how much each one goes in and out: both should be identical.

Its pretty hard to do this without taking the tank off isnt it...well if for some reason both dont go in and out as much as the other what would that mean? I don't mind opening the handle, im just thinking that the problem isnt up there. I'll probably check the handle anyways. is there pictures that tell us where to remove?

[drunyon]

Went home and messed with positioning on the nuts, didnt do much.
@Motofool Here's a video of what I'm experiencing.

http://s1254.beta.photobucket.com/us...1aece.mp4.html

Thanks!

[DaBlue1]

When you put a little slack on the cable it may have slipped off of the throttle tube and now it's binding. Open up the housing and check.

It should look like this


and not like this crossed up like this

[Motofool]

The video shows that the handle is not freely returning as it should be.
The main cable has too much slack.
The secondary (the one that will close the throttle of the carb if the spring gets broken) is even worst.

Sorry, it is hard to see what is happening.

Go step by step, following the last link and do the test that I explained above.

[drunyon]

i unhooked the cables from the carb. i thought i had the right ones on, i also checked on the handlegrip and the cable was sitting how it should on the track. hopefully my friend can come by soon to look at it cause its pissing me off. this wouldnt have been an issue if i just let a shop jet my bike...instead im throwing $ and time at it.

[Motofool]

Then check that the sheath of each cable is sitting all the way inside their places in the handle case.

Is the handle twisting freely now?

[drunyon]

Well when I ttwist it while on carb its still rough. I checked inside handle and it was fine so I put it back together.

[Motofool]

Show your friend the schematic of post #26.

[drunyon]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Show your friend the schematic of post #26.

Yeah i didnt see it until now. thanks. hopefully i can figure this thing out soon lol. before riding season comes back.

[drunyon]

When I opened the handle yesterday it all looked fine and in the track. other than that what could be the issue? when its off the bike i twist the handle back n forth and they push in and out of the sheath just fine i believe.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by drunyon

When I opened the handle yesterday it all looked fine and in the track. other than that what could be the issue? when its off the bike i twist the handle back n forth and they push in and out of the sheath just fine i believe.

Does the throttle return spring on the carb bind at all with the cables off? It is mainly responsible for the throttle return. If one of the butterflies is catching inside the carb, it could possibly hinder the operation of the throttle. Also make sure the throttle grip does not bind/touch the housing at all. There should be a nice little gap between the two.

[drunyon]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Does the throttle return spring on the carb bind at all with the cables off? It is mainly responsible for the throttle return. If one of the butterflies is catching inside the carb, it could possibly hinder the operation of the throttle. Also make sure the throttle grip does not bind/touch the housing at all. There should be a nice little gap between the two.

When I take the cables off and mess with the valve it seems to work just fine. but when i attach the cables the grip gets tight and only turns a little and wont return, also a clicking sound as you can hear in the video i posted. If me and my friend can't figure it out I may be forced with taking it into the shop..

[NathanUc]

Originally Posted by drunyon

When I take the cables off and mess with the valve it seems to work just fine. but when i attach the cables the grip gets tight and only turns a little and wont return, also a clicking sound as you can hear in the video i posted. If me and my friend can't figure it out I may be forced with taking it into the shop..

I didn't read all the responses since my last suggestion, but are you sure you attached the cables in the right order via the carbs? Perhaps you got the reversed which might cause one to be far too tight?

Also, did you end up positioning the carbs differently (compared to stock)?

[drunyon]

Originally Posted by NathanUc

I didn't read all the responses since my last suggestion, but are you sure you attached the cables in the right order via the carbs? Perhaps you got the reversed which might cause one to be far too tight?

Also, did you end up positioning the carbs differently (compared to stock)?

Carbs are positioned the same way as before, only thing i changed was filter and that shouldnt have an effect since last time i put it back on it was fine. It's probably because I took the cables off the carb to swap to a new one, and took em off the bracket of the old carb...I tried swapping the cables to the other one and it didnt seem to wanna reach so im not sure what's going on. Like the position of it was tight. Tryin to do all this without taking the tank back off and without removing the carb again.

[NathanUc]

Originally Posted by drunyon

Carbs are positioned the same way as before, only thing i changed was filter and that shouldnt have an effect since last time i put it back on it was fine. It's probably because I took the cables off the carb to swap to a new one, and took em off the bracket of the old carb...I tried swapping the cables to the other one and it didnt seem to wanna reach so im not sure what's going on. Like the position of it was tight. Tryin to do all this without taking the tank back off and without removing the carb again.

I just saw the vid you posted and it appears the problem is somewhere within the carb and it's springs. At one point you see both cables are slack but the spring stays open. Is it clipping something maybe? Also, sorry if I'm not understanding everything completely, but you said you took the cables off to swap a new one. Do you mean a new carb?

I know it seems like a hassle, but I think you'd find this so much easier if you just remove the tank =\ Once you get the hang of it, the tank only takes a minute max to remove.

Also, I think you'll find it worth it once you get the bike up and running pod filters make the bike sound so sexy don't give up!

[drunyon]

Yeah I took the cables off to swap to a new carb cause I messed up the old one. Yeah the tank doesnt take much to remove but i hate leaking fuel and hate doing it alone. I bought the carb from someone here and it seemed to work just fine, not sure if the cables have too much slack on em(too much cable/sheath pulled towards carb), or if they're hitting something when butterflying. Yeah I had it running before with the pods but I had 100's in the main jets and needed more so i went to 112. I havent done the needles yet, so I may have to get some washers for that. I just wish i took it to the dealership to begin with cause its been more of a PITA and time consuming since I decided to do it myself. I'd rather spend 200-400 just to have someone else do it haha. Especially since I ruined my carb in the process

[DaBlue1]

If you are only able to turn the throttle 1/4 turn, it sounds like the cables somehow are too short. I couldn't see it in the video, but does the throttle linkage lever stop against the idle adjusting screw with the throttle grip closed?

[drunyon]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

If you are only able to turn the throttle 1/4 turn, it sounds like the cables somehow are too short. I couldn't see it in the video, but does the throttle linkage lever stop against the idle adjusting screw with the throttle grip closed?

I havent looked at that yet. The cables cant be too short, unless i dont have the carb all the way in the boots on the engine, which I should probably check...I guess every inch counts lol. The cables cant be too short, same cables, same carb for the bike. it may even be 1/8 of a turn because its so minimal.