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Old July 9th, 2009, 01:53 PM   #1
xero404
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Hi From Irvine/soon to be HB socal

Hi I'm new rider from Irvine. Recently graduated from UCI this year and work in Irvine as well. I'll be moving to Huntington Beach at the end of the month. I just finished the MSF course last sunday 6/28 and have been riding to work everyday since then witht he a light commute of 12 miles.

I Picked up a used 04 Ninja 250 with 11k on it with a a carbon fiber muzzy full exhaust with headers and a K&N filter. I'm having issues with cold start even with choke no matter what my roomate did with the carbs. Idle is is also iffy usually dying below 3k.

Possibly going to get a rejet with teh 12k service at mission motorsports.

i need a bit of advice; my bike is fine during the day and starts up with choke at 70-80F but at nigh when it dips to 65 and below the bike becomes erratic and dies at stoplights even when idling at 3k.

I've cleaned the carbs, changed the oil and switched to water wetter and so far i've read i probably need to do a rejet.

should i:
A: buy a dynojet kit and rejet the bike at a local shop for 280. Buy baffling and silencer from muzzy

or
B: sell the exhaust and get a stock one bypassing the rejet. and just get the carbs tuned.

i like the muzzy but it is pretty obnoxiously loud and it seems like more work to keep it.
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Old July 9th, 2009, 01:56 PM   #2
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Old July 9th, 2009, 02:37 PM   #3
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In my opinion you need to let the shop rejet it for you and give it a good once over.
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Old July 9th, 2009, 03:28 PM   #4
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Welcome Jeff- it's nice to have you here with us! Kelly is our local jetting master - but my is that if you're looking at an aftermarket exhaust, you really need to consider AreaP - it doesn't get much better than that, and their system should be available very soon for your bike - thee is a thread here about it - as for your problem keeping it running, there is a thread about that in the tech section I think, that you will want to follow - they are having a very similar problem, so maybe combining knowledge and symptoms can help explain it
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Old July 9th, 2009, 03:58 PM   #5
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the muzzy came with the bike so probably not getting the area p. Been reading to get some ideas at the tech section. thanks for the replies!
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Old July 9th, 2009, 05:12 PM   #6
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Old July 9th, 2009, 07:00 PM   #7
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Old July 9th, 2009, 08:20 PM   #8
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Old July 9th, 2009, 08:47 PM   #9
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Aloha and welcome, Jeff.

What did the carbs look like when you opened them up to clean them? Exactly what did you do to clean them?

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Old July 10th, 2009, 12:22 PM   #10
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Old July 10th, 2009, 12:24 PM   #11
xero404
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just bought the dynojet get yesterday for $80. will be looking for a mechanic to install and tune carbs so i'll have a baseline.
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Old July 10th, 2009, 12:43 PM   #12
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Old July 10th, 2009, 12:47 PM   #13
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what's up Jeff,

why not try to DIY for the jet installation. I know you may be new to motorcycles but it'll be more worthwhile for you to get to know the bike better at least in my opinion

my ninja is my first bike and it's great to be able to work on it myself and learn at the same time
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Old July 10th, 2009, 12:51 PM   #14
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Old July 12th, 2009, 02:06 AM   #15
xero404
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installed the jet kit today myself without drilling the slider holes. much better throttle response but i still die if i let the idle drop below 3k. Overall the bike behaved much better in the cold weather. I will continue to try to tune myself and try to get the carbs synced. thanks for the encouragement in installing the jet kit, it was alot easier than i thought.
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Old July 12th, 2009, 02:15 AM   #16
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welcome aboard and congrats on the jet kit install jeff
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Old July 12th, 2009, 02:59 AM   #17
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What did the carbs look like when you opened them up to clean them? Exactly what did you do to clean them?

Quote:
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much better throttle response but i still die if i let the idle drop below 3k.
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Old July 13th, 2009, 12:50 AM   #18
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the carbs were spotless with no carbon buildup on the jets and needle. the previous owner got them serviced so i just lightly sprayed them with the jet install. i had alot of trouble keeping the bike to idle at all today so i'm guessing it needs a sync. reading up on how to sync it right now. I noticed the right shock fork showed some fluid rings which might be a leak. So it might be just best to get someone to look at it this week.
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Old July 13th, 2009, 07:39 AM   #19
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Welcome to the funny farm. Kkim is the jeti master, he will help you "become one with the bike you will". I am in Cypress at the moment, eating bacon and eggs and drinking coffee.

nb
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Old July 14th, 2009, 09:48 PM   #20
xero404
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i got the carbs synced by a friend who's into older cb350s and no luck. i called dynojet and since common fixes aren't working I'm going to have to take off the upper caps on the carbs, pull out the needles and remove the black clip on top tomorrow as suggested by dynojet when i called them today.
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Old July 14th, 2009, 09:51 PM   #21
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i called dynojet and since common fixes aren't working I'm going to have to take off the upper caps on the carbs, pull out the needles and remove the black clip on top tomorrow as suggested by dynojet when i called them today.
what black clip?
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Old July 15th, 2009, 12:04 AM   #22
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welcome fellow graduate! (well, i graduated from UC davis, but oh well)
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Old July 15th, 2009, 12:52 PM   #23
xero404
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I adjusted the needles accordingly, and positioned the clips. Then I slid in the 2 washers. I figured that these washer can fall if they're not secured, so i put in the other pair of clips over them to keep them from falling. According to dynojet... i dont need to do that and it can be a reason why it didnt go as rich as I wanted to leading to the bike to die at idle.
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Old July 15th, 2009, 12:56 PM   #24
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the richness is determined by the position of the first clip.
the other washers are placed above the first clip to stabilize the needle so it doesn't bounce around.

what clip groove is the first clip in?
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Old July 15th, 2009, 01:12 PM   #25
xero404
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its on the 4th from the top like the manual said. Thanks for the help! So far the most noob friendly forum.
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Old July 15th, 2009, 01:14 PM   #26
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...and what size main did you use? mixture screw settings?

some links that might help... http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/I_want_...uretor_jetting
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Old July 15th, 2009, 02:03 PM   #27
xero404
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i used the DJ098. Thats def the page i've been using lol
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Old July 15th, 2009, 02:10 PM   #28
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okay... I assume you've been adjusting the idle with the idle control knob on the side of the bike? if so, how have you been setting it? what did you set the mixture screws to when you did the rejet?

sounds like you might have a clogged pilot jet(s).

have you tried running some seafoam through the gas? also, using fresh gas, right?
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Old July 15th, 2009, 02:24 PM   #29
xero404
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i start the bike with about half choke then ride to let it warm up then turn it off. from there i raise the idle to about 2-3k using the control knob. After installing the jet kit the idle screw maxes out clockwise and the idle will still die.

Im not too sure what the mixture screws are right now since my buddy synced them for me i'll figure out when i get home tonight.

Last night i put about half a can of seafoam. when im up to speed the throttle is really smooth but at idle still can't maintain.
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Old July 15th, 2009, 02:33 PM   #30
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can you start the bike with the choke as you have been and then after riding it around for like 10-15 minutes, set the idle to 1500 using the black knob with the choke completely off?

mixture screws should be set to 2.5-3 turns out, equally on both carbs, to start. syncing should be done with the screw they have situated between the two carbs.
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Old July 15th, 2009, 02:38 PM   #31
xero404
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i have never seen it idle lower than 2k and stay alive, i thought the jet would help it out but now i'm even more confused lol.

i'll def set the mixture screws at 2.5 -3 tonight and get them resynced.
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Old July 15th, 2009, 02:41 PM   #32
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it's sounding more like your pilot jets are clogged, but try resetting the mixture screws and resyncing and see if that helps.

um, how did you sync the carbs if you can't idle?
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Old July 15th, 2009, 02:52 PM   #33
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he had idling with choke half on at about 3k. he used a clear vaccum line with oil in the middle and attached it to the vaccuum lines and adjusted each side till it stayed in the middle. apparently that works for his cbs, but i was pretty mind blown you can do it that way.
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Old July 15th, 2009, 04:01 PM   #34
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problem is what works at 3k is not necessarily the adjustment you should make at idle to properly sync the carbs.

adjust the mixture screws for 2.5 turns out from bottom and start from there.

in the end, I think you'll find you need to clean out your pilot jets due to them being clogged.
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Old July 19th, 2009, 11:12 PM   #35
xero404
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so i bought a used set of carbs from someone with a parts bike, cleaned it off a bit (didnt open it or swap the jets yet) and installed it to see if the original carbs were bad.

the issue now is that the symptoms remained the same and didnt change even with the different carbs.

The bike would start w/ the choke @ full and will maintain an idle w/ the choke untouched. when u give it gas, its like the opposite reaction... the bike will rev down and want to die... u let go and bike will go back to its idle again, u keep the throttle bodies open... itll kill itself.

another thing that popped into my head is the fuel selector valve... even when the switch is on the ON//RES position... when u remove the fuel line... it doesnt leak fuel. i dont know if the tank is vacuum operated or gravity...
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Old July 20th, 2009, 12:37 AM   #36
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fuel petcock is vacuum operated. if the bike isn't running, no fuel will flow through the petcock.

if the bike is not fully warmed up and you crack the throttle, it normally will die. what happens if you let the bike idle for like 10 minutes and then try that?
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Old July 20th, 2009, 03:01 PM   #37
xero404
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haven't tried to warm it up yet. will do so today. i also ripped out the stock airbox for now so can facilitate the carb switches.

bike is too loud to keep running at night :/
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Old July 20th, 2009, 03:06 PM   #38
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i also ripped out the stock airbox for now so can facilitate the carb switches.
what air filter setup are you going with now? w/o the airbox, you will need to rejet to bigger mains.
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Old July 20th, 2009, 03:12 PM   #39
xero404
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i have the stock airbox and Box K&N filter for now. planning on going to pods since taking out the carbs is a pain...
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Old July 20th, 2009, 03:18 PM   #40
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okay.. so you're going to put that box back in for now? if so, you're a bigger man than me. I would never think of putting that thing back in after the PITA time I had removing mine... it's out and it's staying out!!!

maybe the pregens are easier to remove??? doesn't seem so from what I've read on removing them.
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