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Old December 29th, 2014, 04:45 PM   #81
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How would you rate those Teri ?
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Old December 29th, 2014, 04:52 PM   #82
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I'd give them an 8/10, very happy with some issues.

Aside from the brake modulator issue, the only other trouble I've had with them is in a heavy downpour. The rain ran down my arms and into the mitts, where my gloves just soaked up the pooled water

But I have used them in 20* temps and know that they keep that pocket of air "warm" compared to the wind chill from riding. Add in heated grips or something and it'd be perfect.
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Old December 29th, 2014, 11:56 PM   #83
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I have plexiglass and a mock up. How do I cut the plastic with no power tools?
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Old December 30th, 2014, 12:37 AM   #84
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I have plexiglass and a mock up. How do I cut the plastic with no power tools?
I started by scribing a straight line with a utility knife and straight edge then snapping it. That got it close then I used a bench grinder to trim it . At that point I shaped it with the heatBe careful that stuff is sharp and every edge will cut. Ypu might want to wear heavy gardening gloves or similar.
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Old December 30th, 2014, 06:37 AM   #85
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Old December 30th, 2014, 08:25 AM   #86
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You can also cut it with a fine bladed hand saw. A saw designed for cutting wood usually has large teeth that can rip pieces from the edge that's being cut. If you don't have a grinder, a file and sandpaper will smooth the edges.
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Old December 30th, 2014, 10:33 AM   #87
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I started by scribing a straight line with a utility knife and straight edge then snapping it. That got it close then I used a bench grinder to trim it . At that point I shaped it with the heatBe careful that stuff is sharp and every edge will cut. Ypu might want to wear heavy gardening gloves or similar.
Hurm, I tried scoring it to half way through the sheet but it still broke crooked.

Ah well, got more to fiddle with. May have to go get a hand saw to work with it. Thought my little dremel would work with the plastic cutting wheel but the disk keeps getting stuck.
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Old December 30th, 2014, 03:52 PM   #88
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You can use a hacksaw blade. If the hacksaw frame gets in the way, just use the blade only and wear a glove or wrap the end of the blade with duct tape. The Dremel cutting wheel is probably sticking because it tends to melt the plastic rather than cut it.
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Old December 30th, 2014, 10:23 PM   #89
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Sounds like a good excuse to buy some tools to me, personally pick up a Dremil and have at it, just take you time cutting it don't push the tool, let it do all the work.

As I have one original winter wing in my possession to use as my template, I was going to start making these out of Lexan instead of Plexiglass, but unfortunately life gets in the way hopefully here in a few weeks I'll start cranking some out.

If anyone needs, I can post a detailed pic, so other might make their own, just let me know.
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Old December 30th, 2014, 10:32 PM   #90
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Well.. I am definitely not a professional but I did manage to get a couple of pieces cut from a 12x12 inch piece of 1/8 clear plexiglass and by playing with a propane torch* , I now have wings....Ugly but I surprised at how effective they are ..No rain test yet but they can only help .

* I highly advise against heating in the oven as it has been three days and the kitchen still stinks and yeah..I DID sightly overcook..


A full DIY write up would be Nice.
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Old December 31st, 2014, 07:55 AM   #91
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A full DIY write up would be Nice.
My work techniques are embarrassingly crude...
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Old December 31st, 2014, 10:08 AM   #92
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My work techniques are embarrassingly crude...
Don't be shy, look at the Wright brothers, and see where we at now, everything has to start somewhere.
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Old December 31st, 2014, 10:31 AM   #93
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Idea: I might instead of Lexan use aluminum, more durable, can be finished, painted, polished, whatever, and easier to work with assuming the gauge I pick, I'm thinking 1/8" or 3/16" or what I have in the shop just laying around.
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Old December 31st, 2014, 02:55 PM   #94
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Idea: I might instead of Lexan use aluminum, more durable, can be finished, painted, polished, whatever, and easier to work with assuming the gauge I pick, I'm thinking 1/8" or 3/16" or what I have in the shop just laying around.
Dont forget mirrors.. My wings cover half of each mirror but I can still see thru the plexiglas enough for it not to be a problem , .
I started with a 12 x 12 inch piece of 1/8 inch plexiglas . I cut it diagonally into two pieces. The main side measurements for mine were 10 1/2inches and 12 inches, with the bend at 8 inches and 8 1/2 on the longside . If you want to make those cuts, let them run long, you can then trim the top and outside to your preference. Hope this makes since..
Place the piece flat on a smooth surface and let the "bend" overhang the edge. Then use a heat gun or propane torch and keepit moving constantly until overhanging piece simply falls. It helps to run a few passes on the underside also but main concern is to keep the heat supply moving steadily..

I have tried to be as accurate as possible with the measurements but kinda hard as bends are rounded...After you do one tho the second is easy...



This would be the left side with your mirror mount holes at "A" .I did not mark them as it is easy to do by removing mirror and holding wing in place while you mark the holes.. I made the holes by heating a Phillips screwdriver, laying the piece on a board flat and and then melting thru the mark .. Safer than drilling..


********PLEASE BE AWARE THAT EDGES ARE SHARP AND HEAT SOURCES CAN CAUSE FIRES!!~***********
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Old December 31st, 2014, 08:29 PM   #95
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Dont forget mirrors.. My wings cover half of each mirror but I can still see thru the plexiglas enough for it not to be a problem , .
I started with a 12 x 12 inch piece of 1/8 inch plexiglas . I cut it diagonally into two pieces. The main side measurements for mine were 10 1/2inches and 12 inches, with the bend at 8 inches and 8 1/2 on the longside . If you want to make those cuts, let them run long, you can then trim the top and outside to your preference. Hope this makes since..
Place the piece flat on a smooth surface and let the "bend" overhang the edge. Then use a heat gun or propane torch and keepit moving constantly until overhanging piece simply falls. It helps to run a few passes on the underside also but main concern is to keep the heat supply moving steadily..

I have tried to be as accurate as possible with the measurements but kinda hard as bends are rounded...After you do one tho the second is easy...



This would be the left side with your mirror mount holes at "A" .I did not mark them as it is easy to do by removing mirror and holding wing in place while you mark the holes.. I made the holes by heating a Phillips screwdriver, laying the piece on a board flat and and then melting thru the mark .. Safer than drilling..


********PLEASE BE AWARE THAT EDGES ARE SHARP AND HEAT SOURCES CAN CAUSE FIRES!!~***********
Question for clarification. Did you begin with a 10 1/2" square piece and cut it diagonally, or are the dimensions shown on the drawing incorrect, or did you trim a few inches off the pieces once you cut them so the dimension shown are correct?
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Old December 31st, 2014, 08:58 PM   #96
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I started with a 12 x 12 and after bending, I trimmed it down.
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Old January 2nd, 2015, 11:15 PM   #97
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I'm not calling this a finished product, more "proof of concept", but hey, I have wings!
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 06:47 AM   #98
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I'm not calling this a finished product, more "proof of concept", but hey, I have wings!
Woah!!!!! Now that is a set of wings!!!, looking good.
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 07:13 AM   #99
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Hurm, I tried scoring it to half way through the sheet but it still broke crooked.

Ah well, got more to fiddle with. May have to go get a hand saw to work with it. Thought my little dremel would work with the plastic cutting wheel but the disk keeps getting stuck.
Score the material on both sides, as deep as possible. I have wondered if a brake using a straight edge as a guide would yield better results?
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 09:30 AM   #100
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Score the material on both sides, as deep as possible. I have wondered if a brake using a straight edge as a guide would yield better results?
I did with a boxcutter and it still failed. Got my hands on a proper scorer (?) and snapped quickly and easily. Right tool for the job!
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 04:30 PM   #101
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I did with a boxcutter and it still failed. Got my hands on a proper scorer (?) and snapped quickly and easily. Right tool for the job!
Please post link to that tool.
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 04:36 PM   #102
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Here you go
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 04:46 PM   #103
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Please post link to that tool.
Not this but like this. Looks like an xacto knofe with a hook.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BZ...=AC_SX200_QL40
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 05:48 PM   #104
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Not this but like this. Looks like an xacto knofe with a hook.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BZ...=AC_SX200_QL40
I have used those and had same results. Sometimes great, sometimes not.
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 08:59 PM   #105
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First 200 mile review - they work.

Held up under speed, including 75 MPH on I-80, including the wake behind semis and RVs. Slight vibration causing a bit of rubbing on the upper fairing so I'll probably add in a bit of foam to protect the fairing.

Blocked the wind so while my hands did get cold (it was around 27* tonight), my fingers weren't biting cold like my toes ended up getting. I believe these, combined with the handlebar mitts, should make my hands happy on cold nights.

@Old Guy on a '08 mentioned lower fairing wings, so going to play with my left over pieces to see if I can create a wind pocket for my feet.
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 09:05 PM   #106
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First 200 mile review - they work.

Held up under speed, including 75 MPH on I-80, including the wake behind semis and RVs. Slight vibration causing a bit of rubbing on the upper fairing so I'll probably add in a bit of foam to protect the fairing.

Blocked the wind so while my hands did get cold (it was around 27* tonight), my fingers weren't biting cold like my toes ended up getting. I believe these, combined with the handlebar mitts, should make my hands happy on cold nights.

@Old Guy on a '08 mentioned lower fairing wings, so going to play with my left over pieces to see if I can create a wind pocket for my feet.
If I may personally suggest, and recommend heated grips, once you've tried them, you'll never ride without them again.
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 09:18 PM   #107
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If I may personally suggest, and recommend heated grips, once you've tried them, you'll never ride without them again.
Perhaps, but any spare power my bike has is already earmarked for another upgrade

http://ledrider.com/shop/?model_numb...anufacturer=18
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 09:27 PM   #108
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Perhaps, but any spare power my bike has is already earmarked for another upgrade

http://ledrider.com/shop/?model_numb...anufacturer=18
They don't use that much power that the bike can't spare under 50w maximum draw. I run them on mine with absolutely no negative effects.

http://oxford-products.com/us/produc...ted-Grips.html
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 11:48 PM   #109
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My heated jacket takes up everything the bike has left over at the moment. Nothing left unless I improve the system.
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Old January 4th, 2015, 06:56 AM   #110
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My heated jacket takes up everything the bike has left over at the moment. Nothing left unless I improve the system.
Have you converted all lighting the CREE LEDs, and LEDs bulbs, including the headlight to either a CREE LED or HID? And upgraded to a MOSFET R/R ? As these are the only things you can do to gain more wattage back?

As far as that LED Rider stuff, save your money, get your buIbs from eBay, and the headlight go to DDMTUNING.COM for the HID, or LED bulb, or just order them all from them.
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Old January 4th, 2015, 11:28 AM   #111
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Nope, just getting this.

http://www.electrosport.com/street-b...nja-87-07.html
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Old January 4th, 2015, 12:00 PM   #112
flitecontrol
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I recommend Tim Parrott's stator rebuild service. Send him an old stator and he will rebuild it to better than OEM specs for a fraction of what a new one costs, and better quality than electrosport. He uses top quality materials and it shows. The stators he rebuilt for the VN750 outperform the OEM Kawasaki stators.
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Old January 19th, 2015, 04:54 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flitecontrol View Post
I recommend Tim Parrott's stator rebuild service. Send him an old stator and he will rebuild it to better than OEM specs for a fraction of what a new one costs, and better quality than electrosport. He uses top quality materials and it shows. The stators he rebuilt for the VN750 outperform the OEM Kawasaki stators.
Can you post about this or link us to a post?
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Old January 19th, 2015, 04:56 AM   #114
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First 200 mile review - they work.

Held up under speed, including 75 MPH on I-80, including the wake behind semis and RVs. Slight vibration causing a bit of rubbing on the upper fairing so I'll probably add in a bit of foam to protect the fairing.

Blocked the wind so while my hands did get cold (it was around 27* tonight), my fingers weren't biting cold like my toes ended up getting. I believe these, combined with the handlebar mitts, should make my hands happy on cold nights.

@Old Guy on a '08 mentioned lower fairing wings, so going to play with my left over pieces to see if I can create a wind pocket for my feet.
I have my windscreen mounted with a heavy rubber gasket and a Chicago style nut made for the gaskets. These work great. I wonder if a similar set up would help.
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Old January 19th, 2015, 08:17 AM   #115
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Can you post about this or link us to a post?
Glad to. http://www.tpe-usa.com/
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Old January 26th, 2015, 11:45 AM   #116
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Well sadly, though I thought it would happen, when I laid my bike down to have someone help teach me to pick it back up - the wings broke.

I love the idea and concept, my execution of the design however needed a lot of work.
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Old February 6th, 2016, 08:04 AM   #117
Kestrel
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Bit of a thread bump, but it's cold! Purchased some winter gloves as a cold weather alternative to my Helimots, but the bulk is a little too much for me... So, I'd like to fabricate some winter wings for my '02 250.

Cutting and scoring isn't difficult, but what did all of you guys use to cut the holes in the plexiglass/lexan? I know cutting that stuff can be tricky, and that seems to be a pretty sizable hole, too.

Also... If anyone has a spare set lying around for the older bikes, let me know and perhaps I can pick it up from you instead.
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Old February 6th, 2016, 08:08 AM   #118
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I have the template if your interested, I used a new drill bit, and didn't force it, just let it do all the work.

Also lexan is better than plexiglass.
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Old February 6th, 2016, 08:22 AM   #119
Kestrel
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Template would be great. What size bit? Does this require a press, or could it feasibly be done with a hand drill?
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Old February 6th, 2016, 11:07 AM   #120
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Took some detailed pictures, the grid paper is 1cm scaled, I posted the pictures here:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1006527...CO-4lsGr2MevBA

If you need anything else please let me know.

In case the link doesn't work, here's the pictures
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 6067908824812493666.jpg (74.2 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg 6067908866988074578-1.jpg (124.8 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg 6067908916694230274-1.jpg (97.7 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg 6067909709804597858.jpg (55.7 KB, 1 views)
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