Project Recondition 250 for Wife Begins

[eulark]

Long story short, this was my first bike and was how I won my wife, so as an esteemed member of my family it will stick around for years to come.

After an accident in my truck and leaving the bike to sit while cycling through other bikes it stopped running altogether.

Now I got the 250 running finally a year and a half later. Replaced starter, battery, cleaned carbs and got new float bowl gaskets on there. Started up on first try. Score.

Now its just a matter of making it nice and tight.

List of stuff to do:

1. figure out the fix for front wheel shaving front tire on fender. Yay...
2. check rear brake to be sure it isnt dragging
3. suspension suspension suspension (see video)
4. wiring woes. Can see towards the back. My squiddly-made wiring hack job needs work. Gimmie a break, I didnt know any better 4 years ago.
5. Did I mention suspension
6. Probably rear tire

Rode it around and jesus it's so loud and obnoxious. I love it. But it does have issues with the ride. I'm trying to determine what would make the bike feel like its going to fall over if I lean it. Need to check tire pressure tomorrow to be sure it wasnt just low, but I think it was fine.

I'm thinking options in order are: Hard compound tire, rear suspension feedback, front suspension, being used to tight-ass 636, misaligned front forks, tire pressure, dragging brake. Any thoughts? Never experienced any of this before.

Anywho, I took a video for diagnosis purposes and historical record. Figured I'd show it here. That muzzy is so much fun (dont worry, bike was warm from ride). What's more concerning to me is the suspension, which you'll see in video. Any thoughts or ideas regarding it, please feel free to make them. Even fat jokes are not off limits.

Link to original page on YouTube.

edit---guess I need to learn how to embed videos real quick. brb.
edit2 --nailed it

[JohnnyBravo]

Fix front fender, get new tires.

250's have squishy suspension, I don't think my rear is that squishy, but it's still squishy (I have my rear shock set up a bit from stock)

[Z1R rider]

Wow, I've never seen a stock shock rebound so slowly! It's like you just took it out of the deep freeze!

[csmith12]

^^^^ ikr?!?!?!

That aint right, even for stock bits. My 1992 rear shock rebounds faster than that. Best get that fixed/replaced.

Good luck with the build and even better luck to your wife.

for things to come.

[Triple Jim]

My Guzzi handled extremely well when I put a new set of Pirelli Sport Demons on it. Now that the front tire is getting the usual triangular shape and the rear is getting flat in the middle, it has that feeling you describe, like if you lean it over in a low to medium speed turn, it wants to fall all the way over.

If your 250 can use new tires, put them on and go from there. Once tires get feeling goofy, you'll never fix the problem by tuning the suspension. What tires are they now? They don't look very worn. I put a pair of Bridgestone BT45s on mine, and they're very predictable, like you could take your hands off the bar while dragging a knee if you wanted to.

[eulark]

Its has pirelli on the front only a bit over a year old. The back is a Kenda. Front is still fairly pliable. Back isn't really. So that will go soon. But obviously suspension is no good either haha.

[eulark]

Yesterday I had to wheel it up onto the deck to get trickle charger on it and I noticed front tire was really low. Not sure if I popped the bead or something wheeling it over the edge of the deck or something, but it was at 5psi. I filled it back up and the back tire to 30psi. Seemed to hold it over night so I took for a ride. Once the back tire warmed up, it was much much more confident in the turns. Still bouncy sus, but my issues seemed to be a combo of low pressure and hard back tire that couldnt heat up properly.

Still need to replace that back tire. It took way too long to get comfortable on it on the roads. Especially with cold weather coming.

Also I checked front tire. It is a 100 and not 110, so I would think I shouldnt have clearance issues with the fender, but I suppose I need to remove the fender or raise it based on the wiki article.

[Triple Jim]

I don't know why a 100 would hit the fender. Mine clears fine. (2005)

[cableguy]

Im in the same boat - Good luck!! Watching this thread for updates.

[spent_too_much]

In my experience, the easiest, and most cost effective Suspension upgrades are the stock rear shock and front springs from a new generation 250 or 300. If you find the right deals, your looking at $75. No mods are necessary - and what an improvement!

[Petrolh34d]

I have front and rear springs from a 300. Seriously an amazing change in ride

[eulark]

The problem with 3 project bikes is finding the time to do everything. And being me, one rattle and I'm sure the world is ending lol. Hopefully getting a rear shock soon.

[eulark]

Well the wife is taking last day of MSF tomorrow. I gotta get cranking. If anyone knows of a rear 300 shock for cheap, let me know. I'm perusing ebay now.

[spent_too_much]

shift957 is parting out a newgen 250. Perhaps he has a rear shock for you?

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=283473

[eulark]

Originally Posted by spent_too_much

shift957 is parting out a newgen 250. Perhaps he has a rear shock for you?

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=283473

Yeah I pm'd him about it, but I havent heard back yet.

[eulark]

Update, wife got her permit renewed instead of getting license. Tester felt she wasnt ready to be full fledged or whatever. So adding to the ever growing list of things is helping her to flat foot the ground. Lowering links are on the way courtesy of a buddy that flipped a 250 and returned it to stock first. However I want these to be the last resort. At most I'd drop it an inch or two with them.

First up will be tires. I need new ones on it anyways and the current ones are 90 series. So we'll try the 80 series. Should be good for an inch.

Next I'm looking at the seat. It needs recovering anyways. So shaving is in order. I think I'll remove some from the butt area for her big booty and also some on the sides. Should help her bring the legs in closer and reduce the distance to the ground. Working around a 25-26" inseam is hard.

Any other tips out there? I know lowering the front is not feasible, so I'm hesitant to drop the rear with the links. I'm also concerned about the rear shock swap. I know the new gen and 300 are about an inch taller, though I'm hoping I could use the lowering links to resolve that issue.

Anywho, just updating the thread for those interested. Been spending a lot of time on the 6r. Lots of goodies going on it.

[eulark]

So the lowering links arrived...or should i say the envelope they were in arrived...Apparently the USPS people decided to help themselves to my links. And they arent helpful with their claims stuff. So if you see pingel lowering links in the NC area for sale, let me know.

[CaliGrrl]

Oh, no, that stinks.

[Triple Jim]

Agreed, it stinks.

I've shipped parts in envelopes and had only the envelope arrive. I've decided that what happens is the envelope rips open for some reason, be it rough handling or damage from machines, and the parts fall out. The PO employees don't bother trying to repackage everything, and simply send the remains of the envelope on. Now when I send small parts in a padded envelope, I tape them to a piece of cardboard that's the size of the envelope, so they can't fall out a hole or rip. Larger parts like lowering links get wrapped and put into a box with ample padding like crumpled paper and/or bubble wrap.

Small flat rate boxes and "regional rate" boxes are economical to ship, and make it much more likely the parts will arrive safely. I'm sure the Post Office will use the fact that the envelope ripped as proof of improper packaging and deny any claim you might try to make. Money is better spent on good packaging than insurance, which is very difficult to collect on.

[eulark]

Installed 300 rear shock. Holy cow its so much better. The old one was rather bad off. Particularly noticed when as I removed it, sections of the rubber piece in the bottom of the shock were falling out. Will get a pic up tomorrow.

Next up:
Clutch cable
front fork
need to find different headlight/speedo mount/mirror mount
brake flush
chain and sprockets

[eulark]

So add to the list a new gas tank...the lining has failed completely and its rusted through. IF the gas leaking off the left hand side is any indication. Hopefully the gas doesnt cause any issues with the sections of motor it was leaking on.

I'm looking for one asap. The wife is really sad about this new development.

[Triple Jim]

It should be possible to line the tank with Caswell Phenol Novolac epoxy. It adds a thick coat compared to other liners.

You said the lining failed. Was it already lined with something? If so, you'll need to remove that first. Acetone removes Kreem, for example.tank

[eulark]

It looks like some sort of enamel that was put in it. It was peeling when i first got it a few years ago. Looks like its completely failed now. I think there is a rock or two in there too that I can hear rolling around. I'll look and see what is out there that I could coat it with.

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by eulark

It looks like some sort of enamel that was put in it. It was peeling when i first got it a few years ago. Looks like its completely failed now. I think there is a rock or two in there too that I can hear rolling around. I'll look and see what is out there that I could coat it with.

Caswell's phenol novolac tank liner. It's phenolic epoxy, which is one of the few things that stands up to current gasoline long term.

[eulark]

I'm willing to give the acetone bath and then sealer a try. How should I go about the acetone bath? Fill the tank with just acetone or 1 part acetone to 1 part water? Any thoughts on sealing the petcock area? I imagine leaving the petcock in there would be detrimental to the dohicky. Although I could probably use a new one anyways.

[Triple Jim]

The guys I know who have removed old coatings like Kreem plug the holes with stoppers and just put enough in to shake around and dissolve the stuff. You could try a little on a brush through the filler hole to see if it dissolves the coating in yours. And of course if you have a leak already you need to temporarily plug that hole to keep the acetone off the paint, if you want to save that. Also acetone if very flammable, so work outdoors!

Caswell supplies some detailed prep instructions that might help too.

[eulark]

I'm planning on snagging a loose piece and dropping it in a cup of acetone and seeing how long it takes to dissolve or at least break it up.

As far as plugging the leak, it came from behind the paint so... yeah paint is toast in that area anyways haha.

[Triple Jim]

Snagging the big flakes/chunks is part of the removal procedure that I've heard guys go through. They often use coat hanger wire to do it.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by eulark

I'm planning on snagging a loose piece and dropping it in a cup of acetone and seeing how long it takes to dissolve or at least break it up.

Most likely Acetone isn't going to touch it. I think you would need to use MEK to cut it. It's a strong solvent and pretty nasty to work with, but it will usually breakdown most coatings.

Some large nuts would help to break away the coating, but you are going to need to clean the tank real well or you will plug up your screens and fuel filters.

[eulark]

Originally Posted by jkv45

Most likely Acetone isn't going to touch it. I think you would need to use MEK to cut it. It's a strong solvent and pretty nasty to work with, but it will usually breakdown most coatings.

Some large nuts would help to break away the coating, but you are going to need to clean the tank real well or you will plug up your screens and fuel filters.

I watched a couple videos of guys using acetone. One kid dropped a chunk in a cup of it and it straight up dissolved. Not sure if my coating is the same as his however.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by eulark

I watched a couple videos of guys using acetone. One kid dropped a chunk in a cup of it and it straight up dissolved. Not sure if my coating is the same as his however.

You can give Acetone a try. Better to use it than MEK if it will cut it.

We coated a tank with Red Kote after some serious cleaning, and it's held up well for about a year so far. You don't want the coating very thick or it has a greater chance of chipping off. They say to use MEK as a solvent or thinner with it. A quart would do a bunch of tanks. After cleaning and drying you dump it in and constantly move the tank around, then dump out the excess before it starts to tack-up. We used less that 1/4 of the can to do the tank and dumped the excess back in the can after filtering though a paint strainer.

[Triple Jim]

I believe acetone works on Kreem, and from Cody's description, I'm guessing that's what's in his tank. I admit that it's just a guess, of course.

The advantage to Caswell phenol novolac is that it's epoxy, and with the right prep, will stick very well. The coating is relatively thick as well, but cures without having to wait for solvent to evaporate. That type of epoxy is used to line commercial fuel storage tanks.

I have not used it myself, but many guys on the Kaw triples board have, including one who makes fiberglass tanks and lines them with that coating. You can buy phenolic epoxy from other sources, and some are probably less expensive than the Caswell product, but I can't point you to anything specific. The key is "phenolic epoxy".

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

I believe acetone works on Kreem, and from Cody's description, I'm guessing that's what's in his tank. I admit that it's just a guess, of course.

The advantage to Caswell phenol novolac is that it's epoxy, and with the right prep, will stick very well. The coating is relatively thick as well, but cures without having to wait for solvent to evaporate. That type of epoxy is used to line commercial fuel storage tanks.

I have not used it myself, but many guys on the Kaw triples board have, including one who makes fiberglass tanks and lines them with that coating. You can buy phenolic epoxy from other sources, and some are probably less expensive than the Caswell product, but I can't point you to anything specific. The key is "phenolic epoxy".

I would agree that the epoxy is probably the best choice.

The Red Kote is a more economical alternative, but maybe not as good in the long run.

I'll take a look at our tank with the Red Kote this spring and see if there are any signs of failure.

[eulark]

Thanks for all the input. Hopefully I can get to work on this thing this weekend. This past weekend was spent keeping the wife and friends out of trouble in DC.

[eulark]

Snagged a chunk of the peeling crap and stuck it in acetone. It did not dissolve. However it did shrivel up in a matter of 10 seconds so I imagine it will at least help remove it. Overall it seems like it's going to be a pain in the ass though.

Anyone have a good gas tank?

[eulark]

Ordered tank off fleabay. Hopefully it's as clean as they said it is. I just need to get my wife on the road for a thousand or two miles and then we can get her on a newer 300 series.

[Triple Jim]

I don't know... if she gets attached to the 250 like I did mine, she might not want to change.

[eulark]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

I don't know... if she gets attached to the 250 like I did mine, she might not want to change.

She's getting there already haha. But I want to move her to something more reliable. Benelli has a sweet naked 300 I think would be great for her since she likes naked bikes

[Triple Jim]

EX250s have reliability problems?

[eulark]

Hah my particular one does. But that's due to me and learning motorcycle repairs on it for 5 years.