Chain Adjustment

[Old Guy on a '08]

How often are you needing to adjust your chain. I've been having to adjust mine about every 500miles (only takes a half turn on the stop to bring it into spec) which seems like really often. I don't remmeber having to do this that often on my 350 H-D Sprint but that was a LOOOOOOONG time ago...

[csmith12]

Miles on chain? Sounding like time for a new one.

[Old Guy on a '08]

How often are you needing to adjust your chain. I've been having to adjust mine about every 500miles (only takes a half turn on the stop to bring it into spec) which seems like really often. I don't remmeber having to do this that often on my 350 H-D Sprint but that was a LOOOOOOONG time ago...

[csmith12]

Miles on chain? Sounds like it's about time for a new one.

[alex.s]

time for a new chain and sprockets. also chain lube helps.

[bdavison]

Take the nut off the chain adjuster that you tighten to lock it in place, and replace it with a locknut that wont come loose anymore....

Problem solved.

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by bdavison

Take the nut off the chain adjuster that you tighten to lock it in place, and replace it with a locknut that wont come loose anymore....

Problem solved.

the chain adjuster is supposed to have two nuts that lock together with pressure. i use two nuts and lock the outside with safetywire to the adjuster plate.

[Old Guy on a '08]

Originally Posted by alex.s

the chain adjuster is supposed to have two nuts that lock together with pressure. i use two nuts and lock the outside with safetywire to the adjuster plate.

I replace the chain(and sprokets) earlier this year so I don't think it's the chain. I've been using a spray on chain wax, like every 500miles. I just switched to DuPont Teflon Chain Saver Lube (a wax based Cahin Lube). The nut and jam nut are tight and the indicators on the swing arm don't appear to have moved noticably...

[alex.s]

if your adjusters aren't moving between adjustments, and your chain is getting more and more slack, your chain is stretching. chains stretch for a few reasons, lack of lubricant, ****** quality, old age, a crooked rear wheel... if its stretching that much every 500miles you know something is wrong. how are you aligning your rear wheel?

[bdavison]

I agree with alex....
If the axle isn't actually moving in position, something else is wrong. Like the chain. Are you using a regular chain or O-ring/X-ring chain?
The other question is are you putting too much tension on the chain when you adjust it. If its too tight, it will stretch it out.

It should be between .8 and 1.2" of slack on the newgen bikes as measured from mid-way between the sprockets. It must be able to flex at LEAST .8 of an inch. Any tighter than that and you will be stretching the chain. Especially if you have your suspension set on "1" and you ride bumpy roads. Everytime the suspension flexes, it will yank that chain tighter than a guitar string if you dont have the right slack in it.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Old Guy on a '08

.......I replace the chain(and sprokets) earlier this year so I don't think it's the chain.....

Could it be the rear wheel axle not torqued as per the manual or some play in the pivot of the swingarm?

The manual shows how to measure the stretching of the chain, as well as the maximum allowable value.

[Old Guy on a '08]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Could it be the rear wheel axle not torqued as per the manual or some play in the pivot of the swingarm?

The manual shows how to measure the stretching of the chain, as well as the maximum allowable value.

I'm following the procedure in the manual. I don't have a torque wrench but the stop adjuster won't let the chain loosen only tighten.

I used to work on military aircarft (EA-6Tram) and I would consider myself a fair wrench jockey. The chain is an Xring. I just switched to the DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver and I think that might make a difference. The other stuff I was using was a spary on wax substance that the guy at the dealership sold me. I wasn't real keen on it's ability to penetrate the Xrings and get "into" the guts of the chain.

Only other thing I might have done wrong is not finding the tight spot in the chain rotation before adjustment....

I'll adjust it again tomorrow and let you know how things go with the new lube etc.

[Motofool]

The chain pull is powerful enough to make the wheel crooked if the axis is not torqued down properly, giving a false reading in the slack.

The torque value is pretty brutal, in my opinion (72.3 lb applied at the end of a 1 ft lever), especially at the time of loosing up the nut and axle.

These chains are sealed and the purpose of the lubrication is just to preserve the x-rings from getting dry and cracked up, allowing factory lubrication out and humidity and dirt in.

If you regularly ride in dusty conditions or over sand, the wax type of lubricant does more harm than good, since it serves as an adhesive for those abrasives.

If several x-rings are damaged, those links are becoming longer and weaker.
That is the reason to verify the total elongation of the chain (Max is 323 mm for 20-link section stretched by a hanging weight of 20 lb).

On the other hand, the length of the chain may be within spec, and you may be seeing false readings due to one of the reasons mentioned above or others.

Having to adjust these chains about every 500 miles is way off normal practice.
My chain keeps its slack for ten times more miles than that.

[thomason2wheels]

I don't want to hijack the thread, but 90w gear oil is an outstanding chain lubricant. With regular use, once every tank of fuel or so, it should be possible to get 30k miles or more out of a chain. Change both sprockets with a new chain and let them wear in together, both will give good life with reasonable care.

[Old Guy on a '08]

First, thanks to each of you that took the time to give me input on this subject.

I've come to the conclusion that I must've gotten a cheap chain. I checked the alignment,fdound the tight spot in the chain, adjusted it to the loose side of spec (1.125" slack), checked alignment with the sting method (less than a 1/16th of an inch difference side to side), torqued the axel nut to spec (bought a torque wrench - 72ftlbs), cotter pinned the nut. I then rode the bike for two tanks of gas (about 500+ miles) and had to adjust the chain again (little over a 3/4 turn on the adjusting nuts).

Anyway, the chain is no near limits on needing replacement according to the chain wear inspection procedure in the service manual (12 and 5/8" - this at about 3-4000 miles - I didn't check the mileage when I had it and the sprockets replaced). I ordered a D.I.D. x-ring chain from Bike Bandit. Can't afford new sprokets at this time but I plan to install the chain this weekend (after visiting the Yamaha Demo Truck tomorrow morning) anyway.
To me, there seems to be a considerable difference in the tight spot and the loose spot on the chain. I plan to check the sprokets with a gage tomorrow (or sunday) when I replace the chain to see if they are "on center".

Don't know why the chain gave such poor service but This time I know what's going on the bike, I know how to properly adjust it, check the alignment, torque the axle nut, etc all again.

I'm open to comments and suggestions (or simpathy - :LOL on the subject
I'll monitor the new chain and let you all know what's going on.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Old Guy on a '08

........I then rode the bike for two tanks of gas (about 500+ miles) and had to adjust the chain again (little over a 3/4 turn on the adjusting nuts).
.......To me, there seems to be a considerable difference in the tight spot and the loose spot on the chain. I plan to check the sprokets with a gage tomorrow (or sunday) when I replace the chain to see if they are "on center".
......

If the old chain is not elongated beyond spec or in just one section, the chain itself may not be the source of the problem.

Sprockets out of center may be your real problem here.

The slack you are allowing may not be big enough if your rear suspension has been modified in height.

With the front shaft, suspension main pivot and rear axle in perfect line, the chain should not overstress at any position (should have some minimum slack to accommodate centrifugal force).

The slack for full extension just accounts for that previous condition.

[Old Guy on a '08]

Originally Posted by Motofool

If the old chain is not elongated beyond spec or in just one section, the chain itself may not be the source of the problem.

Sprockets out of center may be your real problem here.

The slack you are allowing may not be big enough if your rear suspension has been modified in height.

With the front shaft, suspension main pivot and rear axle in perfect line, the chain should not overstress at any position (should have some minimum slack to accommodate centrifugal force).

The slack for full extension just accounts for that previous condition.

Thanks for the input.

To the best of my knowledge the bike is pure stock except for the change in sprockets (Up one tooth front – down one tooth rear). I'm going to check for sprocket centering when I put it up on the stand later today or tomorrow. Is there any way to adjust an out of center sprocket? The last two times I adjusted the chain I was very cognizant of the difference in the slack at various wheel position. I adjust the chain when the bike is on a wheel stand. I’ve not check the alignment of the front, picot point rear sprocket alignment before but will make sure that they are in a straight line when I install the chain.

[CZroe]

When my chain needed frequent adjusting it's because my sprocket was wearing fast. It's usually caused by the chain regardless, but watch that sprocket!

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Old Guy on a '08

.....Is there any way to adjust an out of center sprocket?.....

You may be able to re-center the rear sprocket over the wheel hub, in case the bolts are loose or improperly installed.

Look as well for worn out or originally defective sprockets or even a bent output shaft.

If the tight-slack cycle happens for one turn of the wheel, it is the rear sprocket.

If it happens around three times for one turn of the wheel, it is the front sprocket or output shaft.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by Motofool

You may be able to re-center the rear sprocket over the wheel hub, in case the bolts are loose or improperly installed.

Look as well for worn out or originally defective sprockets or even a bent output shaft.

If the tight-slack cycle happens for one turn of the wheel, it is the rear sprocket.

If it happens around three times for one turn of the wheel, it is the front sprocket or output shaft.

The sprocket carrier for the rear hub is not fixed and interfaces with the cush drive, so there really is no way to ensure a fixed alignment there.

[Old Guy on a '08]

So last Sunday ( the 7th) I put on the D.I.D. Chain (from Bike Bandit) and on Tuesday left for the Blue Ridge Parkwayand The Tail of the Dragon. 1000+ miles round trip. The chain slack is still within specs, so I'm thinkng that the last chain I got from a Bike Shop (not a dealer) was an ElCheapo... never trust nobady to do nothing if you want it done right.

[Motofool]