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Old August 14th, 2011, 07:04 AM   #1
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43 mpg. Hmmm...

OK... I got the wifes "new" 05 ninja going and on the road. I would guess that it's running ok... idle is pretty smooth, it sets at about 1500 to 1700 after the bike is warmed up, and I don't seen any obvious issues. However, it's been 100+ degrees since I got it on the road, so she's not riding (she's been out once in about 3 weeks). SOOO... I've ridden it to work a few times to keep the carbs from gumming up, and to make sure it's good.

It's 35 miles to work, on a highway with a 75mph speed limit. I cruise between 70 and 80 to work. After reading some of the info on the site I was thinking it would do about 60 to 65 mpg, so when it had 160 miles on the tank, I figured I had enough to get to and from work one more time... then I would check mileage.

10 miles short of getting to work, it ran out of gas... switched to reserve, on to work, and rode into the next town for gas before heading home. 199 miles, and 4.6 gallons... That's 43.3 mpg. My FZ1 gets that!

OK... so when you guys are getting 65 - 75 mpg, how are you riding? Is this what I should expect from strapping my 180lb old body on the bike and running 75 and 80 to work? I haven't changed the plugs yet, but I finally got them, and I'll change them next week... I know that when I'm in NM and the speed limit is either 55 or 65, the FZ1 can get up to (and sometimes slightly over) 50 mpg, but if I'm running hard, it has a real impact... however, even during my trial and error jetting changes on the FZ1, the worst I ever got was 39 mpg... The ninjette should be doing a lot better...

I've never ridden a 250 ninja before, so I don't know if it's running like it should or not... yeah, it's smooth... or appears to be... But it's hard to tell if it's running strong when I have to compare to a 145 hp 1-liter bike... compared to the FZ1, it's not running so well

Suggestions?
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Old August 14th, 2011, 08:31 AM   #2
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Your expectations for the gas mileage are not that far off... can you tell us more about the bike? Does it have stock exhaust? Have the carbs been adjusted?
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Old August 14th, 2011, 08:31 AM   #3
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How did you get the number of 4.6 gallons? Is that what it took when you refilled at the gas station?
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Old August 14th, 2011, 08:34 AM   #4
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Reference thread:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13536

Though most of those are for the new-gen, which generally gets slightly lower (worse) mileage than the earlier versions.
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Old August 14th, 2011, 09:21 AM   #5
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Quote:
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Your expectations for the gas mileage are not that far off... can you tell us more about the bike? Does it have stock exhaust? Have the carbs been adjusted?
The carbs were replaced. supposedly "rebuilt." The plugs on the mixture screws were gone, and I reset the mixture screws to 2.5 turns out. I didn't pull the carb tops to verify if it was still stock, or if the needles had been shimmed...

I have the carbs that came off the bike, and have considered putting them on, but the air cleaner boots are such a PITA that I just haven't gotten in the mood... No evidence of any mods on this bike.
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Old August 14th, 2011, 09:22 AM   #6
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How did you get the number of 4.6 gallons? Is that what it took when you refilled at the gas station?
yep.
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Old August 14th, 2011, 09:35 AM   #7
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OK. So I typically shift at about 7K, although it has seen the 10K+ range a time or two. Other than that, it's been pretty much 75-80 cruising down the highway with a 180 lb lead weight on the bike.
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Old August 14th, 2011, 10:00 AM   #8
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Do you have any ethanol blended into the gas where you live? Heavy backpack with you on the way to work? Tuck or upright?

I would expect at least 55 mpg on the freeway with a 180lb rider
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Old August 14th, 2011, 10:26 AM   #9
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Your gas mileage continually decreases after speeds in excess of 60 mph. regardless of your weight Cruising at 75-80 mph will result in mph in the mid 40's to mid 50's depending on conditions (temp, elevation, rpm speed, bike condition). Bike tend to run leaner in winter and richer in summer. Keep in mind at that speed/rpm, you just touching WOT.
Just about all manufacturer mpg estimates are based on avg speeds of 50-55 mph.
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Old August 14th, 2011, 11:25 AM   #10
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Very weird, but yes you lose mpg over 55mph.

I am 165lbs, stock bike and I get 60-63mpg and I take off quick after every stop. If I babied it I would probably get 70-75
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Old August 14th, 2011, 11:26 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Do you have any ethanol blended into the gas where you live? Heavy backpack with you on the way to work? Tuck or upright?

I would expect at least 55 mpg on the freeway with a 180lb rider
Full gear, lunchbox (~5lbs) and me... maybe 220 lbs all together, conservatively.

Just about all the fuel around here is up to 10% ethanol.
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Old August 14th, 2011, 11:31 AM   #12
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Very weird, but yes you lose mpg over 55mph.

I am 165lbs, stock bike and I get 60-63mpg and I take off quick after every stop. If I babied it I would probably get 70-75
That's why I'm asking the question. I'm not rodding it or trying to accelerate hard... but cruising at about 75. 3400 ft elevation, average humidity around 20%, we've had about 3 or 4 days since May that haven't made it to 100 degrees. However, there is a big difference between 43 mpg and 55 / 60...

I understand the concepts of fuel / air mixtures, what carburetor is supposed to be tuned to do, etc. However, I don't see anybody out there claiming 43 mpg. It is a mile to the highway. I accelerate to the speed limit, and pretty much just try to hold that speed for 35 miles. That's about it for riding.

However, before I try to fix anything, I'm trying to determine if something is broken.
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Old August 14th, 2011, 11:38 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Your gas mileage continually decreases after speeds in excess of 60 mph. regardless of your weight Cruising at 75-80 mph will result in mph in the mid 40's to mid 50's depending on conditions (temp, elevation, rpm speed, bike condition). Bike tend to run leaner in winter and richer in summer. Keep in mind at that speed/rpm, you just touching WOT.
Just about all manufacturer mpg estimates are based on avg speeds of 50-55 mph.
Absolutely correct. Does anybody else out there have any mpg data for riding similar to mine? I'm mostly looking for a "what SHOULD I be getting" theory so that I have something to at least shoot at. If I SHOULD be getting mileage in the 60s, then it would make me think that it's more than jetting... shouldn't be that big of a difference unless it's running obviously rich / lean (unstable, rpms not dropping smoothly when the throttle is chopped, blubbering, surging, etc...).
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Old August 14th, 2011, 11:57 AM   #14
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I have a similar commute here in LA and I usually get 51-53mpg per fill up. I fill up right around the 200 mile mark and that never puts me in reserve, but get me very close. Average fill up is right around 3.6 - 3.7 gallons.

My bike is completely stock with MT-75 tires which actually cause my rpms to be just a touch higher than stock size so for interstate I am generally cruising at 10k+ on the tach.
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Old August 14th, 2011, 12:26 PM   #15
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I'm running the 130/90-16 Sport Demon on the back, so I'm running just over 9K at 75...

Thanks for the input there... Still sounds like I'm running 10 mpg low...
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Old August 15th, 2011, 09:11 AM   #16
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Make sure your air filter is clean. 43 sounds very low, even at the speeds you were running.
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Old August 15th, 2011, 11:20 AM   #17
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I was thinking 43 was really low as well... I can pull the filter and clean, just for good measure, but I thought I did that before we got it on the road, and we've only put about 250 miles on it since... should be good.

If work will give me a break this week, I'll get in and see what's in store with the plugs... Since it was running and seemed to be smooth, and since it took 3 weeks to GET the plugs, I never ended up changing them. Hopefully there will be a clue there.

If the bike is running way lean or rich, then the plugs should provide some input...
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Old August 15th, 2011, 11:36 AM   #18
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Yeah, I agree. 43 is low. Im 185lbs and on a interstate jaunt at between 70-80mph I get around 53mpg.

A lot of it depends not only on throttle usage and riding technique, but also on how well the bike is maintained.

Somethings that can affect your gas mileage.

Tire Pressure - big one here....a few PSI off can really put a dent in your gas mileage...and your tires.
Air Filter - The 08's and later have a SUPER easy to clean air filter, and keeping it clean and in top condition can make a big difference. I clean mine with every oil change. Its really easy.
Clean fuel - go for no ethanol if possible. Also, try switching octane levels and see if it improves.
Valve Adjustments - Keep your valves in good shape. If they get too tight or loose, they can affect your fuel usage.
Chain lube, and sprockets - Clean lubed chain, and well maintained sprockets. You can also try different sprocket combinations. Perticularly ones that drop RPM's at freeway speeds if you regularly travel on the interstate.
Oil - good clean oil can make a difference too.

As far as riding technique, use smooth throttle. Roll on the throttle instead of yanking it WOT and waiting for the engine to catch up. Wear tighter fitting clothing...loose clothing acts like a big sail, and wind/air will make the bike work harder.
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Old August 15th, 2011, 11:54 AM   #19
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Ever since I got out of the break-in period, my bike only gets about 45mpg... guess I need to bring it to my dealer and see if they can't find out what's what.
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Old August 15th, 2011, 05:26 PM   #20
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Yeah, I agree. 43 is low. Im 185lbs and on a interstate jaunt at between 70-80mph I get around 53mpg.

A lot of it depends not only on throttle usage and riding technique, but also on how well the bike is maintained.

Somethings that can affect your gas mileage.

Tire Pressure - big one here....a few PSI off can really put a dent in your gas mileage...and your tires.
Air Filter - The 08's and later have a SUPER easy to clean air filter, and keeping it clean and in top condition can make a big difference. I clean mine with every oil change. Its really easy.
Clean fuel - go for no ethanol if possible. Also, try switching octane levels and see if it improves.
Valve Adjustments - Keep your valves in good shape. If they get too tight or loose, they can affect your fuel usage.
Chain lube, and sprockets - Clean lubed chain, and well maintained sprockets. You can also try different sprocket combinations. Perticularly ones that drop RPM's at freeway speeds if you regularly travel on the interstate.
Oil - good clean oil can make a difference too.

As far as riding technique, use smooth throttle. Roll on the throttle instead of yanking it WOT and waiting for the engine to catch up. Wear tighter fitting clothing...loose clothing acts like a big sail, and wind/air will make the bike work harder.
When we got the bike, it had been sitting for a couple of years. Tires dry rotting... new tires put on, aired to spec... they're good. Chain cleaned up and lubed well... appears to be working freely, no kinking... no significant wear (bike has <3000 miles on it). Valve adjustments should not be the issue at 3000 miles, so I'm assuming that's not the issue. However, if none of the other issues provide a solution, then I'll go there. Oil - 5w40 rotella T synthetic, 250 miles on it. I change filters on every oil change. Driving habits... roll on the throttle... yep... I'm not trying to wring this thing out. After riding the FZ1, I know I'm not going to get a neck snap out of the throttle... so I've been taking it easy anyway... I wear full motorcycle gear, not overly restrictive, but not a sail.

All good points... but I think I've got it all covered. I need to change the plugs, though... not sure what the 2 years may have done to them... although they certainly shouldn't be worn out. Then again, reading the plugs may give me a clue as to whether or not I need to do some jetting...

Haven't seen a gas pump that doesn't say "may contain up to 10% ethanol" in a long time... but then again... a 20% reduction in fuel mileage? the ethanol shouldn't be the issue here...

Anybody out there living in a very dry area at around 3500 ft elevation? Might be some initial jetting suggestions to find there...
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Old August 15th, 2011, 06:24 PM   #21
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How's the humidity during the times you are riding?
Check out the attached pdf. It may help with getting your bike tuned for your riding condition.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Altitude, humidity and temperature.pdf (62.5 KB, 6 views)
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Old August 15th, 2011, 06:28 PM   #22
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You may not be filling the tank to the same level each time.... Whenever I fill up my bike, I fill it until the fuel reaches the lip inside the tank. Find a reference point in the tank that you can consistently fill to.

As far as the bike is concerned.. If someone has been inside the carbs then the float height could be off, or the needles could have been shimmed. I know on my bike whenever I put 1 shim under the needle I dropped about 5 mpg. You also could have a 13 tooth front sprocket that was installed by the previous owner.

Like the others have said, check the spark plugs and then we can go from there.

Good luck!
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Old August 15th, 2011, 06:45 PM   #23
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You may not be filling the tank to the same level each time.... Whenever I fill up my bike, I fill it until the fuel reaches the lip inside the tank. Find a reference point in the tank that you can consistently fill to.

As far as the bike is concerned.. If someone has been inside the carbs then the float height could be off, or the needles could have been shimmed. I know on my bike whenever I put 1 shim under the needle I dropped about 5 mpg. You also could have a 13 tooth front sprocket that was installed by the previous owner.

Like the others have said, check the spark plugs and then we can go from there.

Good luck!
I don't think the minor differences in fillups would make up for a gallon difference. If I was getting 10 mpg more per gallon, then it would have been more like 3.5 gallons vs 4.5. I fill it up just like I do the FZ1... until it bubbles at the top, then hit it one more time.. quick shot to get the bubbles again. Shouldn't be a gallon difference.

The first thing I figured I needed to do was determine if this was "normal." Once that is done, then it starts with plugs, then jetting, and potentially valve adjustments... For now... it sounds like there is a problem, so I'll begin with the plugs...

I'll check the plugs to see if I can get a read on the jetting... Haven't had the carb tops off. screws set at 2.5. I think I was the one saying the plugs needed changed. The key is that I can read the plugs to get some insight on jetting... The manual says that the smaller mains have to be installed at over 4K ft elevation. Without changing the jets out, I really won't be able to do anything but richen... I'll have to see what the plugs say... Then again, every bike is different... I'll have to play with it.

13 tooth sprocket... no. It runs 80 mph (indicated) at just over 9K. That would correlate to about 110 at 12K. sounds like it's the stock gearing to me.
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Old August 15th, 2011, 06:58 PM   #24
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Quote:
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How's the humidity during the times you are riding?
Check out the attached pdf. It may help with getting your bike tuned for your riding condition.
I run into a problem with the first sentence... "Once the jetting is set and the bike is running good..." Why would I want to adjust from there?

However, in most cases... jetting becomes an art...

Around here... with the exception of 2 weeks of single digit temps last winter, it's pretty rare out here that we even get into the mid 20s for lows... 100 degrees in the summer is normal, and a "humid" day is about 30%. normal is in the 20s, and single digit relative humidity isn't uncommon... i.e., hot and dry for the summers, and dry, mild winters...
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Old August 15th, 2011, 08:06 PM   #25
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3500 foot elevation?? That might be your problem. Is it jetted for 3500 foot?
do check the plugs.
I get low 40's on the track at sea level on my new gen.
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Old August 15th, 2011, 08:31 PM   #26
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Is there a good reference for a baseline jetting as a function of elevation?
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Old August 15th, 2011, 08:42 PM   #27
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Take a look at the jetting database to see if anyone has similar elevation. Higher altitudes mean less air density so you need less fuel (probably running rich at the moment which may explain your mpg).

Not sure about the ninjette, but usually you drop a jet size per 1800-2000ft in elevation. It's also unfortunate, but you're losing about 3% hp per 1000ft in elevation. My suggestion would be to read the database and/or start dropping sizes until you feel it best.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10208
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Old August 16th, 2011, 05:37 AM   #28
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Take a look at the jetting database to see if anyone has similar elevation. Higher altitudes mean less air density so you need less fuel (probably running rich at the moment which may explain your mpg).

Not sure about the ninjette, but usually you drop a jet size per 1800-2000ft in elevation. It's also unfortunate, but you're losing about 3% hp per 1000ft in elevation. My suggestion would be to read the database and/or start dropping sizes until you feel it best.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10208
Thanks... it looks like it will probably be worthwhile to just order a dynojet kit and work from there. With the "lean" taper of the stock needle in the midrange, it sounds like getting the new needles is a good start. Plus, with the selection of jets in one kit... should make life a bit easier... I know the carbs were a royal PITA to get back into the air cleaner boots... seems the boots are a bit deformed and really don't want to seal up... I'll have to get those replaced as well...

When ever I can get the time to do this...
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Old August 16th, 2011, 07:30 AM   #29
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check out this page as well. it assumes that the 105 stock jet is the correct size and goes from there. but its a good reference point

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Jetting...26_temperature
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Old August 16th, 2011, 08:19 AM   #30
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I would never recommend the jet kit. $80+ and you really only get 4 jets. Not enough IMO, and especially when you can get OEM equivalent jets for like $3 each. The taper of the needle is not as detrmimental as some make it out to be.
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Old August 16th, 2011, 11:38 AM   #31
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ok... that sounds good to me...

Now... I can drive 50 miles to a Kawi dealer and get OEM jets...

but... where is a good source of "OEM equivalent" jets?

jetrus.com?

Thanks!
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Old August 16th, 2011, 02:12 PM   #32
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thats 3mpgs better than I get!
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Old August 16th, 2011, 05:36 PM   #33
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thats 3mpgs better than I get!
OH... but it's 6 mpg worse than my FZ1 got Saturday... and when I was hitting it hard on the FZ1 in the curves, I still got 2 mpg better on the FZ1... 145 hp... 45+ mpg. 29 hp... 43 mpg. Hence... "hmmmm"
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Old August 16th, 2011, 06:15 PM   #34
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OH... but it's 6 mpg worse than my FZ1 got Saturday... and when I was hitting it hard on the FZ1 in the curves, I still got 2 mpg better on the FZ1... 145 hp... 45+ mpg. 29 hp... 43 mpg. Hence... "hmmmm"
I don't think you are riding your FZ1 correctly XD
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Old August 16th, 2011, 06:34 PM   #35
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I don't think you are riding your FZ1 correctly XD
Riding it a lot harder than the ninja...

Come on out... I'll show ya...
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Old August 20th, 2011, 11:55 AM   #36
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latest update...

I didn't want to start ordering jets until I figured out what I actually had...

Pulled the plugs. They look like 3000 miles plugs... no significant abnormalities, light in color... no real evidence of over rich or overly lean conditions.

I pulled the carbs, and the main jets. Can't for the life of me figure out what size they are. The numbers just don't make sense... there is a lone "3" and a lone "6"... beats me. These carbs are the extra set that I got that were "rebuilt." I noticed that Sasquatch apparently put the bowl and choke bracket screws on... messed two of them up and had to get them off with vice grips. My confidence in the "professional rebuild" is waining...

THEN... I was thinking... I replaced the vacuum valve in the original carbs, but never put them back in (the manual said "replace carb" and I had a "rebuilt" set sitting next to me...). I put the original carbs back in. drilled out the mixture screw covers, set to 2.5 turns. They were set at 1 turn before. Checked the main jets, and they are 105s, so it hasn't been rejetted beyond the stock condition, nor has it been rejetted for "high altitude." cleaned the air filter... but it wasn't obviously dirty... hasn't been on the road long....

Test ride... running smoothly, pulls clean, doesn't settle immediately to the idle setting... hangs a bit at about 2K, then settles down to 1500. Overall, it's looking pretty promising. I also shot the carb boots with WD40 to check for leaks... looks good. Gas mileage... well... we'll have to see what we get there...

Here's a recommendation. When putting the carbs back on, or trying to get the aircleaner boots back on the carbs, shoot a bit of lemon pledge on your finger and lube up the rubber mating surfaces before you put the carbs back in. I put a bit on both sets of boots, and the carb set almost immediately into the engine side boots, and with only slight manipulation, they set on the airbox. This is the first time I've gotten them truly seated properly on the back side.
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Old August 20th, 2011, 12:12 PM   #37
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Just an FYI if you have stock needles, they are different sizes so the idle mixture screws should be set at different turns.

Edit: at least for the newgen. Couldn't find info about the needles on the pregen.
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Old August 20th, 2011, 08:46 PM   #38
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Just an FYI if you have stock needles, they are different sizes so the idle mixture screws should be set at different turns.

Edit: at least for the newgen. Couldn't find info about the needles on the pregen.
Should be set up completely stock, except for the adjusted mixture. That will at least give me a starting point that I know. If you find something on the pregen's on this... let me know. In a previous post... the needles weren't supposed to be an issue... I'll have to top it off and ride it to work this coming week... see where we are now...
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Old August 20th, 2011, 08:47 PM   #39
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Just an FYI if you have stock needles, they are different sizes so the idle mixture screws should be set at different turns.

Edit: at least for the newgen. Couldn't find info about the needles on the pregen.
OK... read that one again... from what I see in the repair manual, it looks like they are the same on the pregen. I checked to see where the mixture screws were set at the factory (since I drilled out the caps), and they were both at 1 turn out.
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Old August 20th, 2011, 09:15 PM   #40
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Good to know, thanks! When I swapped out my needles, they were different sizes and at different turns. Interesting why they went this route with the newgen.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9467
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