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Old December 21st, 2016, 03:53 PM   #1
Pyro29
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Still shutting off

Hello everyone, newer here, and i bring what i expext is a newb question, but i digress. My current project is an abused and forgotten 03 ninja 250. Ive replaced the gas tank, lines, and filter; completely rebuilt the carb, got it idleing about 1500, changed the oil and filter, replaced the air filter, replaced the spark plugs, and adjusted the clutch. And after all this i still have th rev it over 5500 to get it to kick into first gear from neutral, otherwise it stalls and shuts off. What am i missing?
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Old December 21st, 2016, 04:15 PM   #2
csmith12
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Vac leaks? Another thing could be airbox/intake boot leaks around the carbs. Take a can of carb clean and lightly mist around the carb and vac line area. If the bike revs... you have a leak that you need to fix.

Assuming the airflow (air filter/airbox/vac) is good. Sounds like the main jets are still clogged or you have improper jets installed. I know it's a pain but sounds like your gunna have to take the carbs back off and check. Also, look for a thread here called "secret passages." This gives you a better idea about what it takes to really clean a carb vs just poking a wire through the jets.

What exhaust do you have?
What about fuel filters? Checked those?
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Old December 21st, 2016, 04:21 PM   #3
jkv45
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Most likely the carb and jets are not completely clean, are assembled incorrectly, or carb adjustments are way off. Did you look at the carb diaphragms?

Did you remove the idle mixture screws when you cleaned the carb? What are they set to? Did you remove the Pilot and Main jets, and carefully clean them? Did you bench sync the carbs? Did you check the float height?

Will it stay running indefinitely if it just idles or will it quit?

Here's some carb info - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Intake
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Old December 21st, 2016, 04:25 PM   #4
Pyro29
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Ill check for leaks next, i have stock exhaust, though someone before me blacked it out, as for the filters, brand new ones on the petcock, and a new inline one, if theboot or vaccume isnt the problem, ill definatly check out that thread, but i did at least do a little better than running a wire through the carb lol. It will run fine after it kicks into gear and stay running till i try to take off from a dead stop (still working on that too).
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Old December 21st, 2016, 04:39 PM   #5
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Dragging clutch?
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Old December 21st, 2016, 05:00 PM   #6
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyro29 View Post
........ completely rebuilt the carb.........
Bother to explain in detail?

Are you sure that the needles are freely moving up and down (commanded by each diaphragm) when you open and close the throttle?
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Old December 21st, 2016, 05:30 PM   #7
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You didn't answer my questions.
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Old December 22nd, 2016, 01:22 AM   #8
Mohawk
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Remember the road side mechanics process, spark, fuel, air. This is designed to avoid fires & based on most probable cause with a spark ignition engine.

There is an ignition cut off circuit that includes the sidestand switch, the clutch switch & the gear position switch, known as neutral light If any of these fails, the bike will stop running, depending on which switch is NOT working correctly.

Fuel, as per above carbs are a pain to clean correctly.

Air, is the filter clean, no rodents nests in the airbox etc !

Have fun.
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Old January 4th, 2017, 07:11 AM   #9
jeremy_283
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You should have checked valve clearance while you were in there.

Pull the carbs and completely disassemble. I've done it.... twice on the same bike within a 2 month period.

First time I completely disassembled (pulled jets, needles, diaphragms) and cleaned with carb cleaner/compressed air. The second time I soaked the carb in pine sol for 4 days after disassembling. Pine sol helped the most.

As soon as pulling from pine sol wash it all off very quickly and spray it down with WD40 or anything steel on the carb will flash rust.
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