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Old August 29th, 2010, 07:47 PM   #1
AgentX
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12V Socket - Max power output?

Hey folks,

Hope this is the right forum to be posting this under; I just had a 12V socket installed on my '10 Ninja, so that I could charge my GPS, phone, etc. Do kind of wish I'd gone the relay/switch route, so as to avoid unnecessarily draining my battery if I forget to unplug something, but shouldn't be too much of an issue.

Now my question is, being that the socket is wired directly to the battery (with a 15A fuse on the positive wire), what would theoretically be the most output I can expect from this socket? i.e. would I be able to have my laptop (or netbook) charging while I'm riding somewhere? I'm not very electrically-inclined, so don't want to risk blowing something up or killing my battery.
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Old August 29th, 2010, 08:14 PM   #2
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Check out this thread, linked from the main DIY sticky at the top of the tech section. Basically, the bike has a little less than 100 watts of "extra" charging capacity. So if you add on any electrical device that takes more than that, the bike's alternator will not be able to recharge the battery at the same rate, and eventually it will leave the bike in a not so happy state.
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Old August 29th, 2010, 08:34 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex View Post
Check out this thread, linked from the main DIY sticky at the top of the tech section. Basically, the bike has a little less than 100 watts of "extra" charging capacity. So if you add on any electrical device that takes more than that, the bike's alternator will not be able to recharge the battery at the same rate, and eventually it will leave the bike in a not so happy state.
Thanks Alex, excellent information in that posting. Guess I won't be running any super-powerful stereo systems off the 250... ;P But looks like it will be sufficient for charging the netbook, maybe even a laptop, in the unlikely event I'd ever need to. My camera gear on the other hand -- being able to charge my batteries on the road will be excellent.
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Old August 29th, 2010, 09:39 PM   #4
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Your laptop watt/amp load will be your deciding factor, I use a 1amp fuse on my sockets and run a Battery Tender though the plug, charge my cell phone, power my GPS, with a 15a fuse you are probably about 3X over what you need to charge your laptop??

A 1Amp Fuse @12v will give you 12w of power
A 2Amp Fuse @12v will give you 24w of power
A 3Amp Fuse @12v will give you 36w of power
A 4Amp Fuse @12v will give you 48w of power

15A circuit @ 12v is theoretically capable of making 180w of power

EDIT: I went down the wrong road above, what I am tyring to say is...get your fuse closer to the load you need, it's safer that way
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Old August 29th, 2010, 10:53 PM   #5
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The 15 amp fuse shouldn't necessarily be tied to what you plan to put on the end of it, it should be related to the size/gauge/quality of the wire that it is installed in between the power source and the power drain. If it is 15 amp capable wire, all is well. But the poster above also has a good point, if you do actually install something on the end of that lead that draws the full 15 amps, it would be drawing more watts than would be wise from your electrical system in the first place.
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Old August 30th, 2010, 12:19 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WindMeUp View Post
Your laptop watt/amp load will be your deciding factor, I use a 1amp fuse on my sockets and run a Battery Tender though the plug, charge my cell phone, power my GPS, with a 15a fuse you are probably about 3X over what you need to charge your laptop??

A 1Amp Fuse @12v will give you 12w of power
A 2Amp Fuse @12v will give you 24w of power
A 3Amp Fuse @12v will give you 36w of power
A 4Amp Fuse @12v will give you 48w of power

15A circuit @ 12v is theoretically capable of making 180w of power

EDIT: I went down the wrong road above, what I am tyring to say is...get your fuse closer to the load you need, it's safer that way
I think the 12v device itself should have a fuse closer to that and the in-line fuse is more to protect the bike and wiring. Most 12v adapters I've seen have internal fuses.

BTW, I like your sig. I need to show it to one of my old coworkers who insisted that all scooters, even 250-500cc 3-wheeled Piaggios, were "faggy" (before South Park changed the 2-wheel definition!). You might wanna change that to "you are"/"you're" "a poser," though.

Last futzed with by CZroe; August 30th, 2010 at 10:03 AM.
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Old August 30th, 2010, 03:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
I think the 12v device itself should have a fuse closer to that and the in-line fuse is more to protect the bike and wiring. Most 12v adapters I've seen have internal fuses.

BTW, I like your sig. I need to show it to one of my old coworkers who insisted that all scooters, even 250-500cc 3-wheeled Piaggios, were "faggy" (before South Park changed the 2-wheel definition!). You might wanna change that too "you are"/"you're" "a poser," though.
OK..think I'm good now

Originally it was going to read.. "If you are "Too Cool" to be seen on a scooter...you're a Poser and have Gender Issues"
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Old August 30th, 2010, 04:12 AM   #8
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I'm late to this thread, but if you want to learn to do this electrical "stuff", then check out this:

http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslaw.asp
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Old August 30th, 2010, 07:40 AM   #9
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Hmm, good point regarding the power draw... I will change my fuse to something lower, maybe a 10A or even lower. I'd rather pop a fuse than overtax my battery and electrical system.

Now that I think of it, I believe most of the fuses in the bike, for lighting etc, are 10A, no?
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Old September 2nd, 2010, 04:07 PM   #10
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with the 15A fuse you can easily use a good 220W when riding the bike.
Your alternator is producing 19A of current at 5000RPM, then the headlight comes in using up about 4.5 amps/light and the CPU taillight is probably there next with much less power arround 500 mA consumption.
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Old September 2nd, 2010, 04:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g21-30 View Post
I'm late to this thread, but if you want to learn to do this electrical "stuff", then check out this:

http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslaw.asp
That's a nice site if you wish to install a radio on your car, or perhaps an alarm... but if you looking for some great electronical knowledge.

This site is the best. IMHO.

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/
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Old September 2nd, 2010, 04:15 PM   #12
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with the 15A fuse you can easily use a good 220W when riding the bike. I would go with a 20A fuse if your looking for maximum output, but then again, you probably don't need that much power.
is it a good idea to up the fuse amperage rating?
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Old September 2nd, 2010, 04:58 PM   #13
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is it a good idea to up the fuse amperage rating?
Good catch, Kelly. I missed that. The max output of the alternator is 266 watts.
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Old September 2nd, 2010, 05:16 PM   #14
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is it a good idea to up the fuse amperage rating?
ah you quoted me on that one before i edited it -- I hadn't checked the alternator output rating before commenting, my apologies.

there are many kinds of circuit protection devices, time delay fuses, slow burning, circuit breakers, ect..

would don't want to be drawing more current than the maximum that can be supplied, in any case. you would probably risk burning the diodes on the alternators output..

10A sounds like the ideal fuse for our ninjette.

I have a 20A Fuse to my horn because it draws 18 amps. The ideal circuit should have a protection factor of 25%, like in our homes, your breaker is 15A rated but your wires are gauged for 12A
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Old September 2nd, 2010, 05:19 PM   #15
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ah you quoted me on that one before i edited it -- I hadn't checked the alternator output rating before commenting, my apologies.


I have a 20A Fuse to my horn because it draws 18 amps.
Not a problem, that's why we watch out for each other!

Boy, I bet your speed really drops off, when you blow that HORN!!!
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Old September 12th, 2010, 07:55 PM   #16
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Where did you buy the socket? - Can you please post photos of the installation or installed socket?
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