May 18th, 2013, 11:42 AM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: John
Location: Virginia
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Stalling
Herrooo
I signed up for a MSF class at my college but it doesn't start for another month. I thought I might get some practice in before the class in an empty parking lot/neighborhood. Because I have the time and honestly I don't want to fail a $300 class and have to pay twice. That would suck pretty hard. I spent hours watching instructional videos on youtube and reading up on how to ride. I know all the controls. I am able to start the bike up, get it out of neutral and into first. 1.) Start engine 2.) Hold down clutch. 3.) Shift into first. 4.) Slowly let the clutch go until bike starts moving (Do NOT let go all the way or the bike will stall) 5.) Turn the throttle a little bit and start moving. ... Vola! we are now driving at first gear. Yay. I did all my practicing in first. I got the turns down (struggled at first). Got my feet and hands use to breaking. Getting use to the friction zone (I think I might need to adjust it to be honest, I think my hands are too big). NOW... my problem is with stopping the bike. Every time I ease of the throttle and start applying the brakes. Once I come into a complete stop... the bike stalls. WHY is it doing that? What is the correct way of stopping? Is it not possible to keep the engine running while at a stop sign or light? Can some please tell me the correct procedure for stopping the bike without stalling! Thank you! Appreciate the help! |
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May 18th, 2013, 12:26 PM | #2 |
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Pull in the clutch. If you're in gear and the bike is stopped, so is the engine. You need to be in neutral or have the clutch disengaged if you want the engine to be running without the bike moving.
That said - a single tipover of your new bike in a parking lot will cost more than that $300 course. The more conservative route would be to figure out how to maneuver someone else's (i.e. the msf's) before risking your own. Also - from your question I have a hunch that you haven't driven a manual transmission car. Finding a friend to help teach you that prior to hopping on a bike will make learning to ride a motorcycle quite a bit easier, as clutch control and how/when/why to shift becomes more natural rather than procedural.
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May 18th, 2013, 12:29 PM | #3 |
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You must pull in the clutch when you stop. this disengages the motor, cutting power to the rear wheel. just as in a manual car, you must hold the clutch in when you stop. And idk why you are paying $300 for the class, I took mine at germanna community college and it was only $125. that was a few years ago but from what i hear it's still the same price.
edit: Alex beat me to it
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May 18th, 2013, 12:42 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
So based off what you guys are saying. When I come to a stop sign or light I should... (assuming I am in first gear) 1.) Slow down by easing off the throttle. 2.) Pull the clutch in. (can I completely let go of the throttle at this point?) 3.) Apply brakes. .. and then I should come to a complete stop while the engine is still running! I assume I should hold on to the clutch until I am ready to go again (otherwise I will shoot out or stall right?). Or should I switch it to neutral and then let go of the clutch? Freeing up both my hands while keeping the engine running? So... 1.) Slow down by easing off the throttle. 2.) Pull the clutch in. 3.) Switch to neutral. 4.) Apply brakes 5.) Let go of clutch. Since we are neutral it wont shoot out or anything if I just let go? |
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May 18th, 2013, 12:47 PM | #5 |
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Wait until MSF. Park the bike.
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May 18th, 2013, 12:57 PM | #6 | |
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The whole point of the msf course is to teach this to you in a hands on environment and trust me, it is much easier to do that then on an online forum. You have no experience riding and that is what the course is for. I had never ridden a motorcycle until the day i took the msf course and i passed with a nearly perfect score. The teachers will guide you through the skills required to complete the course and I'm sure you will pass it just fine as they allow much room for error in the testing. There's no point in messing up your bike to learn when you can just as easily use there's. It will generally cost more than $300 if you drop your own bike and fix it so why take the chance if you're on a tight budget?
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May 18th, 2013, 01:17 PM | #7 |
ninjette.org member
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I understand your concerns. Like I said, I am taking the class.
I am not a hot headed moron who will drop the bike, I'm very cautious. If I wasn't I would be out there right now trying things until I get it right, which is dangerous. I'm here instead asking people who know what to do for guidance. And then going out there with caution to try it out. If I drop the bike then it is on me, I know that and accept it. If I manage to kill myself in an empty parking lot going no more than 20mph, then it is on me. How about the benefit of the doubt? |
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May 18th, 2013, 01:46 PM | #8 |
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You don't have to be a hot-headed moron to drop the bike. You have to have a moment of inattention, or a misunderstanding of the basic controls, and the bike is on its side before you know it. Your questions betray the fact that you are learning from ground zero. You're not going to get what you need from forum questions or youtube videos.
It's your bike, and advice is just that, advice, but there's no doubt in my mind that you will put the bike on its side prior to the course with the path your taking.
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May 18th, 2013, 01:54 PM | #9 |
Ninja Noob
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Be cautious by staying off the bike. Take the MSF first. You will learn nothing but bad habits by riding prior.
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May 18th, 2013, 01:54 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
You don't need to be that to hurt yourself, while you are alone and away from prompt help. It is not that we are not trying to help you here, it is that it can become out of hands very quickly. You have 30 HP between your legs; my wife got a broken elbow and surgery while learning on 5 HP, .......and I was close by. A hot exhaust between your right leg and 300 pounds of metal can do a lot of damage and cost thousands in medical care. At least ask a friend or relative to be with you while you entertain these tips: Very first lesson: Learn to stop with the rear brake (right foot) + clutch-in. Keep the bike straight and vertical as much as possible: turning + front brake = no-no. Right hand can hurt you: too much throttle or too much front brake. Left hand can save all bad situations: when in doubt, just clutch-in.
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May 18th, 2013, 02:06 PM | #11 |
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Oh dear....
If there is no stopping you from riding then here is some real talk from a guy who taught himself to ride a long time ago with no MSF. Your gunna lay it over at some point, so own it with a smile Got gear? If not get some, skinned knees and elbows hurt like hell Take off mirrors, front turn signals... basically anything that isn't needed to keep the bike running. Hell, even the side fairings Find a parking lot you can ride in that is free from traffic and clear of sand, gravel and all the other crap Get a friend that knows how to ride to come with you to help get you started Bring a cell phone (know the address, in case services are needed) Bring a first aid kit
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May 18th, 2013, 02:09 PM | #12 |
Bass Master General
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A lot of your problems seem to be in understanding how a manual gearbox works..
You need to match engine speed with road speed, the higher the gear the faster the rear wheel will spin, you have a window of engine speed you're engine can operate within, to go faster than this window you need to make the rear wheel spin faster than the engine, to go slower you need to make the rear wheel move slower than the engine. If the engine speed goes too low it will stall If the engine speed goes too fast it will hit the rev limit (to protect the engine) You use the clutch to gradually engage / disengage the engine from the rear wheel via the gearbox, this is needed because the transistion between gears can have a gap where the wheel will suddenly go a lot faster or a lot slower so the clutch smooths the transition. You can also use the clutch to go slower than the bike will allow you to go in first gear by "riding the clutch" where you constantly let the engine run faster than the rear wheel by partially engaging the clutch, this is sometimes neccesary in traffic but will wear the clutch down quicker. |
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May 18th, 2013, 02:15 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
Please, read this related thread: http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...ght=rear+brake
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May 18th, 2013, 02:47 PM | #14 |
ninjette.org member
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I tried to be civil. Just close this thread, there is no more useful information to be extracted out of it. This will just end with another page of msf this, msf that, msf... msf.. msf.
Won't ask for help with riding tips anymore. I'll just figure it out on my own and kill myself. Thanks. |
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May 18th, 2013, 02:57 PM | #15 |
The Corner Whisperer
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There is good here, we all are just looking in your best interest and it just makes logical sense to learn on someone else's bike and let them take responsibility for any damages.
Many have learned to ride without the MSF and some have even learned without laying it down. Maybe you will be one of them but the odds are not in your favor. Just trying to save you some $$, time and even some pain. +1 for being civil too. Seems to be in short supply for some reason.
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May 18th, 2013, 03:49 PM | #16 |
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Yup, no hot-headed morons in the vicinity.
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May 18th, 2013, 03:59 PM | #17 |
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May 18th, 2013, 04:40 PM | #18 |
Bass Master General
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If you look at it this way,
You can enter the MSF not knowing anything and come out with a basic knowledge and ability to ride a bike. You can enter the MSF knowing how to put a bike in first and potter around a car park and come out with a basic knowledge and ability to ride a bike. Our point being, there is no good reason to ride your bike before the MSF as you will come out the MSF the same regardless, all you stand to achieve is breaking your bike, and judging by your photo, an expensive hospital bill. I guarantee you will get a lot worse response elsewhere than you have got here. |
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May 18th, 2013, 04:51 PM | #19 |
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John, I'd really take everyone's advice. If you REALLY want to practice here's the deal.
The clutch connects the motor the wheel. If the wheel is stopped, the motor must be stopped. It's simply the mechanics. If you don't understand this prior to getting on the motorcycle, you must learn to understand the concepts so that you do not need to use mind power to think about how to control the engine/wheels with the clutch. It took me forever to learn how to use a clutch, and that was on a kx65 in my driveway. I didn't go out and try to learn on the street. I stalled that mother at least 100 times before learning how to actually get going. Working a clutch is a mandatory skill if you want to ride bikes. If you are stopped, clutch in; if you want to cut power to the wheels, clutch in; if you want to coast, clutch in; if you want to shift gears, clutch in. The clutch physically connects and disconnects the motor from the rear wheel. Why is there a need for a clutch? Simply because the motor needs to stay turning while the wheels don't necessarily need to be spinning all the time (for example stopping for a red light, a dog running across a street, that dip **** who just pulled out in front of you nearly driving you off the road). So I'm assuming you know the job a the motor...it's to provide power. And now you know the job of the clutch, to connect the motor to the rear wheels, or better yet...connect the motor to the gearbox. So what is this gearbox? It allows the rear wheel and the motor to spin different speeds. If there was no gearbox, our bikes would only be able to travel ~30mph, which is the red line in first gear. And from the looks of your posts, you shouldn't even touch the gear lever. Stay in first to practice (If you are dead set on practicing for a course that is meant for people who don't even know how to ride bicycles). The next thing in line of the drive line is the rear wheel itself. This converts the spinning motion of the engine to forward motion to make the bike go. The rear wheel also has a brake to allow the bike to stop. I'd recommend using this brake, because the front brake can bite you. I'm a very mechanical guy. I need to know the mechanics of a machine in order to control it well. Now here, I am urging you. Please wait to take that course. Riding two wheels is similar to, but nothing like riding a bicycle. The course will teach you everything you need to know, and best of all: The instructors will fix any bad habits you have/ are forming. I've been riding dirt bikes for 14 years when I took the MSF. Believe it or not, I learned stuff I never knew before. I hope you can take our advice. We wouldn't recommend waiting for the class if it wasn't worth it. I payed $250 locally for the course, and in my eyes, it was definitely worth just learning the few facts I never knew before. If you still think you need to practice in order to save money, look into buying gear. Gear will cost probably $400 for the cheapest stuff out there. Best Regards |
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May 18th, 2013, 05:31 PM | #20 | |
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Quote:
What you said about the clutch is good information So what I think you are trying to say is that, and correct me if im wrong, the motor keeps turning no matter what. If the motor stops then the bike stalls. The wheel is connected to the motor. So if the wheel stops the motor stops. So in order to come to a stop without stopping the motor we have to disconnect the wheel from the motor. That way the motor can keep running without being stopped by the wheel. The clutch disconnects the wheel from the motor? That I did not know, thank you for the information. I drew a little picture in paint of what I believe it looks like, the inner workings are probably completely different but you get the idea... 1.) When we are in first gear, the wheel is connected to the smallest gear. 2.) When we push in the clutch it disconnects the wheel from the 1st gear. 3.) Shift (with our left foot), moves that little connector to 2nd gear position. 4.) Letting of the clutch then connects the wheel to the new gear, and now we are rolling on 2nd gear... How does neutral come in to play here? Does it move that connector to the wheel in a spot in-between the gear (not connected to one). |
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May 18th, 2013, 06:01 PM | #21 | |
Daily Ninjette rider
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What about my input?
Drews' was amazing; however, mine was not bad. You said it, your problem is stopping; hence, you should master that before anything else. Quote:
Link to original page on YouTube.
Link to original page on YouTube.
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May 18th, 2013, 06:13 PM | #22 | ||
ninjette.org member
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Quote:
Quote:
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May 18th, 2013, 06:23 PM | #23 |
Daily Ninjette rider
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You are welcome, my friend
Hope you will stay curious and asking questions here !!!
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May 18th, 2013, 10:07 PM | #24 | |
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Quote:
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May 19th, 2013, 01:06 AM | #25 | |
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Quote:
Your numbered list is correct. I love shifting my own gears which is why I love my manual car. That, and no one my age can drive it. No better feeling than going through the gears with that fast and furious feeling going through you. Way more fun than just gunning the pedal to the floor and letting a computer do all the work. Anywho enough about cars. Neutral is where the clutch and the wheels spin freely because they are not linked in the gearbox. I know this is achieved in a car by the fork not being placed in any gear so they all spin freely. Basically, for simplicity, neutral is where the gearbox disengages the motor and the wheels, just like the clutch. Though you would shift out of neutral and into first without using the clutch. You won't have a good time. Hope that answered any questions. |
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May 19th, 2013, 10:42 AM | #26 | |
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Quote:
And yes, that info allows me to answer my question. However is there a down side to using the clutch to stop the bike? Does it wear down badly on the bike somehow? The proper way to stop a red light would then be... 1.) Slow down. 2.) Pull clutch in. 3.) Let the throttle off completely 4.) Switch to neutral (not sure if step 5 should go before step 4? I guess it could be done both ways but one is more proper?) 5.) Ease into the breaks until stopped This way when I let go of the clutch the bike wont go anywhere and the engine will still be running... solving my stalling problem. Would you use just the clutch at something like a stop sign for a quick stop? Or is that not good, a bad habit to get into? Or is that the way it should be done? |
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May 19th, 2013, 10:58 AM | #27 |
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No. You shouldn't shift into neutral until after the bike is completely stopped. And even then, there are those who recommend against ever staying in neutral instead of 1st while at a stoplight, as then it would take too long to get the bike moving in case someone is coming up too fast from behind in your mirrors. Personally, I stay in gear until there is a stopped vehicle behind me, and then at that point I'll be in neutral if the light is long enough.
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May 19th, 2013, 11:02 AM | #28 |
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You're either massively overcomplicating how gears work, or still don't understand.
Don't think of it in any silly sequences or procedures, or steps etc. All you need to think about is matching engine speed with road speed, to do this you need to shift up when going faster and shift down when going slower. To shift, the procedure is to disengage the clutch, shift up or down then engage the clutch, simples, the better you get the less clutch you need to use and the quicker the procedure gets. Working out when you need to change gear, how much clutch to use, and everything like that is learnt from riding a manual. The problem with you steps is this 1. Slow down - How? Brakes? Down-shifting? Did you know you can ride your bike without any brakes whatsoever, stop go, everything simply by down-shifting and using engine compression to slow down? This is the recommended method when riding down hills. 3. Let the throttle off completely - Woah! I never let off the throttle, maybe if I did a slower shift I would, but when the engine is disengaged from the wheel it will rev easier, if you shift quick you won't notice this, if you shift slow, you may be hitting red line when you get it up or down a gear which you don't want! You can forget neutral exists, neutral isn't used except for a few circumstances, our bikes have a habit of bumping from N to 1st so it's much better just to keep it in 1st and pull the clutch. 99% of learning how to use a manual transmission is practical, getting the "feel" for it, something best done by a qualifying instructor, I learned by my parents getting me to shift gears in the family car when I sat in the front seat from a young age. But you Americans aren't fond of manuals like us. |
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May 19th, 2013, 11:05 AM | #29 |
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The fun ones are!
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May 19th, 2013, 11:12 AM | #30 |
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This might sound really stupid, but do you have a friend with a manual transmission car? Your questions all seem to be on the operation of a manual transmission, not motorcycle-specific questions. If you have a willing friend and an hour after dinner, you can get the hang of the manual transmission for stops/starts/shifting/friction zone/etc without the worry of dropping the brand new Ninja. Plus, then you'll get live help and advice from your friend without having to wait for and then decipher the advice you get here.
I know when I started riding, my combination of experiences with driving a manual transmission car and spending lots of time on bicycles made the transition to a motorcycle very natural. Just something to consider |
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May 19th, 2013, 11:34 AM | #31 | |
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Great advice, @choneofakind !!!
Manual transmission cager + pedaling bicyclist = awesome motorcycle rider Quote:
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May 19th, 2013, 12:56 PM | #32 |
ninjette.org member
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Yup! NOW the original question has been answered. Thank you Aurodox, Motofool, Live2ride, and anyone else for providing me on information as how the motor, gears, and clutch work.
Thank you Alex for starting a fcking lynch mob. You're worse than Hitler. And I hope you get hit by a Twinkies truck. It's just really annoying to hear people tell you "take a MSF course" instead of trying to answer the question. Then follow it by telling you obvious things like "wear a helmet", "bring a friend", "make sure your Will is updated". It's like me coming to a cooking forum and asking how to bake a pizza, but you rambling on about not sticking my head in the oven. Or telling me to go take a cooking class. Like I said, I'm signed up. I'm the type of person who likes to go into things with an advantage. Going into class with this knowledge prior, allows me to absorb other material that I normally might have looked over because I was too focused learning the basics. Now when I go in, I will know this, they will touch up on it and most likely add to it in MSF. Along with other questions that I probably haven't thought of. I UNDERSTAND the risks of what I am doing. I know I can drop my bike. I know I can break something. And I know I can kill myself. TRUST ME, I know this thing isn't a toy. I FULLY ACCEPT these risks. If you are still having problems accepting this then.. Honestly, you guys are all going to make great mothers one day. |
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May 19th, 2013, 01:06 PM | #33 | ||
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Name: 1 guess :-)
Location: SF Bay Area
Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 7
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Quote:
In short, you're acting like a kid. Your perspective of feeling as if the comments you're getting are motherish is telling. Quote:
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Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered) |
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4 out of 4 members found this post helpful. |
May 19th, 2013, 01:13 PM | #34 |
The Corner Whisperer
Name: Chris (aka Reactor)
Location: Northern KY
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much.
MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13
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Just so you know I wasn't trying to be a know it all asshat. A thread not to long ago, where an experienced track rider asked how to help teach another new rider.... I gave nearly the same response.
I am a father of 4, my oldest is 21. So maybe I am a bit fatherish, but I call it being prepared. Good luck brah, I wish you the best.
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Goal: Shake A Million Hands | Look through the corners | Track Day Prep | Closest track? | The Mid-Ohio School |
2 out of 2 members found this post helpful. |
May 19th, 2013, 01:24 PM | #35 | |
ninjette.org dude
Name: 1 guess :-)
Location: SF Bay Area
Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 7
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Quote:
/permaban /closed
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Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered) |
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3 out of 3 members found this post helpful. |
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