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Old August 3rd, 2021, 02:00 PM   #1
Bob KellyIII
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A special tool Perhaps ?

Hi All.
I've ran into a problem with adjusting the airscrews properly on the 2012 250R
Ninja....
" I CAN'T GET TO THEM "
taking the side fairings off just to adjust the air screws is just plane silly their's gott'a be a better way than that !
is there a special tool you guys use to get in there and adjust the screws
while it warm... without burning the heck out of your hands ?
I thought of a 90Deg. screwdriver but their all way too long on the business end. a simple 90deg. bend in an old screw driver would only work for a few degrees then your out of luck turning it more.
a 1/4" ratchet with a tiny screw driver bit on it might work but the throw will be very restricted by the fairing....
.... any suggestions ?

Edit: I am not opposed to making a special tool for the job but the only viable one I can see is a 90 deg screwdriver with a long handle and a short working end... and I haven't seen one of those.......ever. perhaps cutting one down would work though...Humm.

Bob.....
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Old August 3rd, 2021, 02:11 PM   #2
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I heard that with my bad ear,

What I used was an old stubby screwdriver, the a used my bench grinder, ground down the handle to make a supper stubby screwdriver, then moved onto the blade, and took that down to fit in there.

Did you remove the idle mixture cap?
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Old August 3rd, 2021, 02:21 PM   #3
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fingerheld, wearing gloves with rags draped over crankcase
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Old August 3rd, 2021, 02:39 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
fingerheld, wearing gloves with rags draped over crankcase
That's what I use, but with the addition of a couple layers of rubber tubing so I can get a grip easier.
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Old August 3rd, 2021, 02:51 PM   #5
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that's about what I used but the screw was too hard to turn with the finger tips so I wrapped the screwdriver bit with a few layers of black tape, enough to fit in a 1/2" nut and then put the nut in a vice and crushed it onto the screw driver bit.... ( after I made sure the screw driver bit fit in the tiny hole which it didn't, so I had to grind it a bit...)
then I could get under the carb and turn the screw.... but that was with the fairings ( sides) off .... not with them on, and the engine cold
with the engine even partly warm it would be a painful endeavor !
....
so I take it there is no way, you have to remove the side fairings AURGH !
....
how about Mods to make the fairings easy to get off and on ? LOL
.....
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Old August 3rd, 2021, 03:13 PM   #6
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"too hard to turn with the finger tips"

huh? shouldn't be
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Old August 3rd, 2021, 04:25 PM   #7
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Quote:
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how about Mods to make the fairings easy to get off and on ? LOL
Here's my fairing mod:
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Old August 3rd, 2021, 06:32 PM   #8
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I've installed something like this and now no tool needed:

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Old August 3rd, 2021, 07:25 PM   #9
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Glad it worked out for you, but many variations in aftermarket parts prevent me from using any non-factory tuning components. A couple examples attached, note the 3.07 diameter screw (2nd pic) actually prevented installation of the factory washer.
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Old August 3rd, 2021, 08:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
"too hard to turn with the finger tips"

huh? shouldn't be
Believe me, I KNOW but I put it in and took it out several times and it's a very hard turn on the right carb.... I have no idea why
it's like it's cross threadded in there which is super bad !
I saw no screwups in the hole even with a magnifing glass... but it was hard to get out and hard to put back in....
it may well be one of those after market air screws !!!! which I suspect !
but after threading it in and out several times it got easier but it is still hard to turn
it SHOULD only have the spring tension in there holding it in
but that one is definitely much harder to turn.... the tip of it does not have the
1/2mm of tiny longer tip to it that can stick up through the inside of the carburetor either when it's all the way in nothing protrudes into the bore of the carb....
which makes me think it is an after market screw....
.... it works..., now... but is kind'a hard to turn.
when cleaning the carbs I had to drill out both caps which SHOULD mean
it's the OEM screw but putting it alongside the other one and you can see the tip difference everything else is identical that I can see with the eye...
(the main jet on this carburetor was completely plugged with rust from the tank...)
.... it runs great except when it's cold, the right side needs a bit more airscrew turned out is all but I dread having to take the fairings off just to do that ! but without that it wants to run on 1 cylinder till it's warmed up.
( not good)
.....so I don't let it idle because it will drop to 1 cylinder so I keep the RPM's up till it's warm.....it picks up the other cylinder at about 2000 RPM and above...usually 2000~2500 in there. denoting the air screw is too lean.
....
so I went out there with my fancy screwdriver Nut tool and couldn't even fit my hand in the cracks to get under the carbs !!!....
Jim's idea of what to do with the fairings is a good one !!!!!!


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Old August 4th, 2021, 10:34 AM   #11
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The left one isn't too bad, I have a short screwdriver that works for that but the right side one was tricky. I connected two socket swivels together with a quarter inch socket for an allen driver shank 1 point screwdriver bit. Then I used an extension and screwdriver 1/4 inch handle to do the twisting. It wasn't pretty but it worked. Amazon has a 110 degree driver adapter that would probably work well but I didn't want to buy anything just for this. One other note, unbolt the coolant overflow tank and swing that out of the way for a bit more room.
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Old August 4th, 2021, 11:33 AM   #12
Bob KellyIII
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Hummm...I might try that that could conceivably work !!!!!
I don't have 2 ,1/4" socket swivels.... but I don't mind buying tools ...any excuse to buy tools !!!!! a long extension and come in under the exhaust pipe on the right side ....just might get the job done !
thanks very much I appreciate that info !
..... still gott'a take the fairing off though ! Aurgh !
.....EDIT: Under the exhaust pipe ? what was I thinking ... wrong bike even ! anyway... I took the right side fairing off again to replace the rt.front turn signal and decided to give the rt. carb's air screw a bit more turn...
with a long needle nose plyers I fumbled around and got the 1/4" screw driver bit with nut crushed onto it into the slot and turned it about a quarter turn.... again... then put the fairing back on...
that center bolt on the bottom faught me for over an hour but I finally got it attached and all cinched down again
.... I fired up the bike ( being cold I used the choke) it fired right up and started gaining RPM as usual so I turned off the choke and listened to it idle .... NOW it sounds right !... both cylinders have the same POOF as it's ideling when cold... I am sure it will run much better now on take off and all when it's warm...
it was a bit hesitant to take throttle as it was extremely cold still, but it was much better than it was.
it's strange that the right cylinder needs to have the idle/air screw out a bit more.... but I noticed in the manual they say to put it 1/4 turn more than the left one....
and I am trying to figure out WHY that is ? perhaps because of the length of the header pipes that go into one pipe ? they must be slightly different in length eh ? that would account for it I think... the only other reason I can come up with is the ignition and that should be rock solid to both sparkplugs at idle .... I bet it's the header pipes not being the same length ! anyone else got a idea on that ?
.....
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Old August 6th, 2021, 08:04 AM   #13
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From my post on the 500 forum...
Quote:
Originally Posted by InvisiBill
I used a Dremel to get the plugs off the pilot screws on my bike. When I then wanted to adjust the pilot screws, the closest item at hand was the collet wrench for the Dremel, which has a flat screwdriver on the other end for screwing down sanding disks. It turns out it works very well for adjusting the pilot screws.

The end is tapered down, so it fits nicely into the hole, but it's still large enough to make use of most of the screw's slot (unlike a tiny jeweler's screwdriver) which makes it easier to turn. Being flat, it makes it pretty hard to mess up counting turns compared to a symmetric round screwdriver handle. And the whole thing fits easily under the carbs (which can't be said about a number of tools).

You want Dremel 90962 Collet Wrench. This is one of those things that will cost more for shipping than the item itself. The best deal I found was a guy on eBay who had bought a bunch (apparently he kept losing them) and decided to sell off the extras a few at a time for other people who always lose them. Obviously, you may already have one of these on hand if you own a Dremel.

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Old August 6th, 2021, 11:18 AM   #14
Bob KellyIII
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Good idea there invisibill <grin> but I don't have a Dremel YET.... I am hoping Santa will bring one come Christmas time.... i'm thinking the corded 4000 series would be a good one.... I hope I know nothing about Dremels.
.... I see you've ran into the "Counting the turns "problem... I usually take a file and hack a line in the screw driver so I know where I'm at....that way I only have to do each one 5 or 6 times to get it right.... getting old sux !
....
I let some air out of the Ninja tires because they were hard as a ROCK and I later moved it and with my weight on it they were darn near flat like DUH !
so I had to drag out the air compressor and put air back into them...
I put about 25~28 p.s.i in each one..... obviously those are hard good tires... not used to messing with that type ! LOL but perhaps the change from what they were to now will absorb some of the bumps.... it's been like every pebble is a jolt ! really hard riding ! there doesn't seam to be any adjustments on the bike for softer riding so i guess I'm stuck with it the way it is.
.....
Bob.......
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