June 12th, 2014, 03:36 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: james
Location: SF
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Rearset Compatibility
So, I want an adjustable rear set, but there's absolutely no way I'm going to pay for a woodcraft set, that's just way too much money for me to spend on one part. I've been cruising ebay, and there are some generic rear sets that don't look too hideous (as long as I stay with black or silver) but they are all for the new gen bikes. I've heard that some of the rear sets are compatible, what stops them from being able to swap over?
Disclaimer: Yes it's Ebay. Yes it's a part from Asia. And if I drop the bike, I won't be super pissed at myself because it's an inexpensive part... |
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June 12th, 2014, 04:11 PM | #2 |
wat
Name: wat
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i would assume differences in design.
you are asking too vague of a question. maybe link to a specific piece that you are concerned about not fitting.
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June 13th, 2014, 12:18 AM | #3 |
ninjette.org member
Name: james
Location: SF
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Are the mounting holes the same distance away? Is the leverage ratio the same for the foot controls? Is there a difference relative from the mounting holes to the foot pegs?
What I'm wondering is, can I use an aftermarket Newgen rear set on a Pregen? If yes, what are the differences? The consensus seems to be yes, it fits, from a few searches I've done. However, there's a difference in the mounting location for the rear master brake cylinder. Is this the only difference apart from styling? |
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June 13th, 2014, 09:19 PM | #4 |
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Name: Inderveer
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Have you looked at A&L Rearsets? They're for the newgen 250 but fit on the pregen as well.
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June 13th, 2014, 09:29 PM | #5 |
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Name: james
Location: SF
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I have. But for $133.00 shipped to my door I'm getting knockoff fully adjustable rear sets instead. According to the 'net, they are decent. Maybe a few issues, but for the price I can deal with it.
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June 14th, 2014, 01:00 AM | #6 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Inderveer
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Be sure to take pics and let us know how they do.
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June 14th, 2014, 06:10 AM | #7 |
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They'll fit the mounting holes just fine. You may have to take the grinder to rearset to shave off any contact points on the frame. But not necessarily.
Go for it. Be sure to post up pics when you've got them installed. |
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June 14th, 2014, 08:01 AM | #8 |
ninjette.org member
Name: james
Location: SF
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Will do. Shipping is going to take 2-6 weeks, so don't expect anything right away
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July 7th, 2014, 06:09 PM | #9 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Jonathan
Location: Boston
Join Date: Mar 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 250 Posts: 48
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do you have a&l rear sets on a pregen?
i am thinking of it. |
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July 7th, 2014, 06:18 PM | #10 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Jonathan
Location: Boston
Join Date: Mar 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 250 Posts: 48
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woodcraft clip ons revisited
also, i think i am going to switch to woodcraft clip ons for 2006 250 pregen
anyone have any complaints about these? anyone have any specific issues about installing them? also, any reason not to do this if i ride from boston to ny and back once a month? why not talk about this again. Last futzed with by redbike2; July 7th, 2014 at 06:21 PM. Reason: omitted word |
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July 7th, 2014, 07:02 PM | #11 |
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July 7th, 2014, 07:05 PM | #12 |
Private Joker
Name: Ben
Location: Towson, MD
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July 11th, 2014, 11:39 PM | #13 |
ninjette.org member
Name: james
Location: SF
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Picked them up from my friends house today and got them on the bike in 2 hours. Yes, 2 hours because quite a few things didn't fit quite right. When I have some time I'll make a separate how-to thread, but right now is bar O'Clock
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September 23rd, 2014, 09:43 PM | #14 |
ninjette.org member
Name: james
Location: SF
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SO.
Long-term they are OK. Shift linkage was short, so I'm running GP shift because that's juuuust that much shorter so it works. Also, I had to cut the reverse-thread heim joint and thread that into the pre-gen shift lever because that part can't be unbolted one pre-gen… if you look at the bike you will see what I mean. Lock-tite everything. A few bolts have come loose even after using the red stuff. I'm keeping an eye on it, and keeping an eye on it has paid off.. Worth it? YMMV. I like it and the $$ saved over running "proper" rear-sets has been spent elsewhere for more enjoyment. |
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September 24th, 2014, 02:57 AM | #15 |
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Try getting a female to female coupler with locknuts and a spare piece of threaded rod. That will get you the length you need on your shift rod
Or read through the faq.ninja250 wiki. I believe they suggest using a shift rod (and maybe shift lever as well) from an EX500 because they're longer and don't interfere with any parts at the angles required to be comfortable on rearsets. |
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September 24th, 2014, 05:56 PM | #16 |
ninjette.org member
Name: james
Location: SF
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I really just need a longer piece of reverse-threaded rod and some copper bushing tube to safely increase the length. Works OK now, would be perfect if the lever was an inch lower.
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September 24th, 2014, 07:14 PM | #17 |
Certifiable nontundrum
Name: Harper
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Thanks... I may just have to go GP shift my ride
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September 24th, 2014, 11:03 PM | #18 |
ninjette.org member
Name: james
Location: SF
Join Date: Mar 2014 Motorcycle(s): Hyper 821 Posts: 161
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It will take a bit of time to get used to the change. I wouldn't have done it given the choice, makes switching bikes a bit more difficult, less of a "hop on and ride" experience.
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