X-Race Cruiser Rearsets Review

[cuong-nutz]

Yes, I know I am missing a lock nut for the shift rod.

Pros:

• 8 positions to choose from
• Smooth action shifting due to use of bearings on pivots and heim joints on shifter rod
• Precision CNC machined aluminum
• Variety of colors (color seen is Fast Gold )

Cons:

• Replacement parts may take a while to get due to being overseas
• No instructions provided
• Foot pegs protrude further away from bike
• Trimming and modding involved to some extent for street use
• Cannot GP shift due to clearance; will need Predators instead
  

You will encounter kinking of the brake line for the rear brake hose to the master cylinder and rear caliper the further back and up you position the rearset. you'll have to cut the hose to the MC shorter to stop it from kinking or relocate the reservoir. The brake line to your rear caliper might see some kinking as well so you can probably get away with adjusting/repositioning the brake line if you decide to not to go with an aftermarket stainless steel line.

To make use of the rear brake switch, you will have to find yourself a new shorter spring, or make a bracket to extend the rear brake switch further away to keep the stock spring. I am currently not using a return spring of any sort for the rear brake. The spring inside is the MC is has enough pressure to keep the rear brake disengaged so far.

Due to the two piece design of the rear set, the master cylinder is mounted away from the bike's center so the brake line is pulled out some. Also, the stud that actuates the rear brakes is not long enough so you can install the retaining clip. The stud won't back out unless the retaining screw for the stud backs out.

If you still have the stock side/kick stand, the spring will get in the way of the shifter peg and it will prevent you from shifting if you have the rearset positioned at the lowest and closest to the front. You will have to move it back one hole on the lowest position and flip the spring around to be able to shift without it blocking it.

Don't forget to add some thread lock to these parts. A tiny amount goes a long way.

If you're tall like me, 6" with long chicken legs, you'll bang the inside of your knees on the fairings where it bulges out at the current setting pictured. You'll have to go higher or further back. This happens when you have the balls of your feet on the pegs. Bruised needs are obtained when you rest the arches of your feet on the pegs, but you might break your ankle when you your feet catches the ground.

[kavo]

I have been using these on my race bike this year. I have tested the crashability and they come out pretty good, haven't bent anything yet. I cut and welded the gear linkage clamp for GP shifting which works well.

If you want a good deal head to www.xrace-racing.com and buy Directly from the manufacturer!

[psych0hans]

I had actually been watching these for a while, before I bought my A&L rearset adjusters... Thanks for the review.

[cuong-nutz]

Originally Posted by psych0hans

I had actually been watching these for a while, before I bought my A&L rearset adjusters... Thanks for the review.

Since these don't pivot or fold up, they may save me from more injuring if I'm still under the bike and 'can' act as a frame slider.

[psych0hans]

Originally Posted by cuong-nutz

Since these don't pivot or fold up, they may save me from more injuring if I'm still under the bike and 'can' act as a frame slider.

I believe I read about a member on this site who bent his frame in a crash, because the foot peg hooked into the ground and flipped the bike over... Same reason I don't wanna get frame sliders...

[cuong-nutz]

Ymmv

[bitaria]

Interesting - they offer adjustable plates and fixed.
I have been looking at these as well for a race bike, but spare parts availability is what keeps me from pulling the trigger. They don't seem to offer spare parts separately. I've used Woodcraft stuff and having a few spares goes a long way in not ending a track day prematurely. Maybe getting 2 sets would work, cost is about the same as a single complete set made in USA.

[cuong-nutz]

Originally Posted by bitaria

Interesting - they offer adjustable plates and fixed.
I have been looking at these as well for a race bike, but spare parts availability is what keeps me from pulling the trigger. They don't seem to offer spare parts separately. I've used Woodcraft stuff and having a few spares goes a long way in not ending a track day prematurely. Maybe getting 2 sets would work, cost is about the same as a single complete set made in USA.

I contacted them and they do sell replacement parts. I should have gotten a price list from them. Just be informed that they are overseas and parts will take a while for you to receive them. They're nice looking and have good functionality until you lowside on them. Being that they're a two piece design, the stacking of plates creates a lot of leverage. Mix that with the the footpeg catching the curbing or anything and you got a twisted mess. I am starting to like the Woodcraft and Sato design a lot more. They do have offer folding pegs in their Predator model which could alleviate majority of the damage.

I have already crashed with these rearsets a few times now and the last lowside put a toll on the plates. I did manage to straighten out the plates and salvage some of the adjustment holes out. to use.

[BRad704]

So those don't seem to move the pegs higher or rearward. Am I seeing it wrong? or are they mainly for looks?

[cuong-nutz]

Originally Posted by BRad704

So those don't seem to move the pegs higher or rearward. Am I seeing it wrong? or are they mainly for looks?

Multi position adjustable. You can move the pegs higher and rearward.

[bitaria]

There is another model that's cheaper and offers less adjustment on mounting plates. Any info on why you went with this setup vs the one with smaller mounting plates?

Are pegs pretty grippy? i.e. boots aren't sliding around when riding hard. Shift lever looks a bit slick, but I could be wrong.

I would also love to see a comparison side by side with a Woodcraft / Vortex part in terms of riding position.

For my $0.02 I will apply for Woodcraft racer support when it opens and see if I can get a good deal from them. If it still turns out to be cost prohibitive X-race looks like a pretty good option rather than going with Vortex setup. Since shipping from abroad takes a while I would have to have a complete spare set in my box, which makes it a bit less attractive as an option.

[cuong-nutz]

I went with these because I got them cheap off a member. I'm always looking for the best deals! Pegs are plenty grippy and you should have any issues with misshifts from your foot slipping off.

[cuong-nutz]

from my last wreck at the track:

[BRad704]

You bent the SH!!!!!!!T outta that thing!

You ok?

[bitaria]

You can buff that out, no problem!

[cuong-nutz]

Originally Posted by BRad704

You bent the SH!!!!!!!T outta that thing!

You ok?

Yeah, I was riding in the rain on the wet track. I was exiting at turn and slowly giving throttle and the rear just slide out from under me. I just slide on my butt off the track. Picked up the bike and ride it back to the pits.

Originally Posted by bitaria

You can buff that out, no problem!

yup!