In a day or two, I'll know if my bike's repairable

[IF13]

In the hands of myself.

I'll be receiving the kill switch (to replace the broken one) and the bar ends (to take the place of the ends that wouldn't come off my original bars because that red stuff sucks) soon. Once I throw them on, I'll tie all the freely hanging cables down and give it a good run.

The last time I tried, the bike wouldn't start no matter how much I fidgeted with the old kill switch. The time prior to that, it did start. I'm just going to assume that the kill switch is really messed up and that by replacing it, I'll be able to start the bike.

If someone here tells me that by uninstalling the kill switch, I should be able to start the bike, I will shed man tears because that means I've got a problem somewhere else in the bike that I don't know about.

I'm a little nervous.

[Motofool]

No electrical problem is insolvable.

Here is a hint: if it cannot be fixed with a hammer, is an electrical problem.

[IF13]

Originally Posted by Motofool

No electrical problem is insolvable.

Here is a hint: if it cannot be fixed with a hammer, is an electrical problem.

I'd actually hope for only electrical problems. It'll be my first time running the bike through its gears.

How often do crashes affect the gears itself? I'm no mechanic but I'd imagine them to be quite tightly housed in whatever they're sitting in, right? No way it could easily be lodged loose or whatever, right?

[Motofool]

Your assumption is correct, gears should be OK.

[IF13]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Your assumption is correct, gears should be OK.

Good to know.

Now all I've got to do is wait for the switch to arrive.

By the way, does anyone know why there's a connection between the kill switch assembly and the brake fluid container?

[nightrider]

Originally Posted by IF13

I'd actually hope for only electrical problems. It'll be my first time running the bike through its gears.

How often do crashes affect the gears itself? I'm no mechanic but I'd imagine them to be quite tightly housed in whatever they're sitting in, right? No way it could easily be lodged loose or whatever, right?

yea, but you could have ****ed up the dogs in the transmission...

It usually happens if its laid down on the shifter side. The fall can transmit enough force through the shift lever I assume to cause them to misalign or break.

This is a dog

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by nightrider

yea, but you could have ****ed up the dogs in the transmission...

It usually happens if its laid down on the shifter side. The fall can transmit enough force through the shift lever I assume to cause them to misalign or break.

Not likely for this crash:

Originally Posted by IF13

.........Moment I got up, I saw my bike's front end tucked beneath the passenger side of the truck..........
.......The bike? Rear brake assembly area is either not working or isn't triggering the rear brake light for some reason. The actual thing that holds the peg is cracked. Forks don't seem to be bent, frame seems to be okay. Headlights damage, all plastics 'cept for the left rear piece were cracked or torn up, lost a turn signal.........The bike was low sided and the truck was raised up so my headlight/ fairing bracket took the brunt of the force. After having the bike towed, it still started up. Carbs didn't flood........

[IF13]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Not likely for this crash:

I suppose if I'm going to fall then I should fall on my right side, right?

Yep, the left side's clean. Heck the only fairing that wasn't damaged as the left rear fairing.

[MR2Aaron]

Have you tested the kill switch assembly with a multimeter? I would assume the shop manual describes what you should be able to measure across the terminals.

You could probably figure out how to bridge the pins in the wiring harness to mimic the kill switch functioning properly if you just need to be able to test the starter or something. I doubt it's a terribly complex circuit.

[IF13]

Originally Posted by MR2Aaron

Have you tested the kill switch assembly with a multimeter? I would assume the shop manual describes what you should be able to measure across the terminals.

You could probably figure out how to bridge the pins in the wiring harness to mimic the kill switch functioning properly if you just need to be able to test the starter or something. I doubt it's a terribly complex circuit.

I was thinking of just twisting the wires together seeing as I'm already replacing the whole assembly, wires included.

[IF13]

I had a bit of trouble getting the left hand grip off so I forced it off and had to order new ones.

They came with bar ends. 'Course the screws didn't fit and there's no way in hell I'm using the screws that came off the old bar ends so that's another issue on its own.

Anyways, I tied down all the free cables and basically road the bike. Several issues:

-Burning plastic smell: Determined to be a portion of the inside padding of the side fairing that got scraped against the header.

-Odd throttle: Determined to be an incorrectly installed throttle/ kill switch assembly, the cables are getting caught on something and it's not releasing the throttle as quickly as it should

-Lots of vibrating: Either the bike's not aligned (more on this later) or the lack of bar ends (tested the bike without the ends) and new grips.

-Alignment: Looking down the forks, they're not bent. But I've heard its common that the triple tree and whatever gets misaligned when people dump their bikes and right now, it's visibly off by probably a 1/2 cm to 1 cm. Any help on this?


Also, mods, can this be moved to the '08 tech section. I realized it's more techy than casual talking? Thanks.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by IF13

............-Alignment: Looking down the forks, they're not bent. But I've heard its common that the triple tree and whatever gets misaligned when people dump their bikes and right now, it's visibly off by probably a 1/2 cm to 1 cm. Any help on this? .........

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/I_need_...nd_front_wheel

[IF13]

Originally Posted by Motofool

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/I_need_...nd_front_wheel

This was really informative.

Only concern is the lack of a center stand for the new gen.

Also, what's that whole bounce it against a tree thing other forums are talking about?


EDIT: also who ever moved my topic, thank you very much.

I'v also decided to reinstall my stock pipe. It felt incredibly lean when I ran it today. I don't know if it's because the header is slightly dented or if that's just how it has always been and I've lost touch of that familiarity within the three weeks I haven't ridden the bike.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by IF13

........Only concern is the lack of a center stand for the new gen.

Also, what's that whole bounce it against a tree thing other forums are talking about?

Yes, I know, I don't know how you guys can live without a center stand.

You can use a rear stand and then support the bottom of the engine using some pieces of wood and a lift.

Yes, the bouncing against the tree is to twist the upper and lower triples back radially in the hope of re-establishing the alignment of the four eyes of the trees (so both tubes become parallel again.

Releasing the pressure of the eye bolts (clamps) allows the tubes to rotate respect to the trees during alignment adjustment.
The grosser bouncing against the tree field-method hopes for the tubes to rotate a little under the pressure of the clamps.

[IF13]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Yes, I know, I don't know how you guys can live without a center stand.

You can use a rear stand and then support the bottom of the engine using some pieces of wood and a lift.

Yes, the bouncing against the tree is to twist the upper and lower triples back radially in the hope of re-establishing the alignment of the four eyes of the trees (so both tubes become parallel again.

Releasing the pressure of the eye bolts (clamps) allows the tubes to rotate respect to the trees during alignment adjustment.
The grosser bouncing against the tree field-method hopes for the tubes to rotate a little under the pressure of the clamps.

Ah I see. Yeah, I suppose I'll stick to the first method.

Also the idea of lifting the bike, even slightly, using the engine makes me super nervous.

[NinjaShogun]

the easiest way ive found to replace a front end (forks, triple trees, stem) is to position a 6'-10' ladder (one that forms an "A" shape) over the tank (remove it to ensure you dont dent or scratch it), connect a tie down strap to either side of the frame an to the top of the ladder in a manner that allows you to use the ratcheting mechanism on the strap to lift your entire bike up off the ground. use a rearstand if you have one for extra stability. now you can loosen bolts on your triple trees, realign your forks, swap the entire front end, replace head bearings, or do what ever you need to do without fear of knocking your bike off of a pile of crap you haphazardly propped it up on.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by IF13

.........Also the idea of lifting the bike, even slightly, using the engine makes me super nervous.

I see, but it is not that bad, I have done it that way multiple times, the engine is strong.
The other option is to remove the tank and hang the bike by the frame, if you have some strong structure above the bike.
A front lift that hooks the tube of the steering column is another option.

If the twisting is not severe, you could try doing it on both wheels, releasing only the upper or the lower clamps of the trees, so both threes don't slide down the forks under the weight of the bike.

Something important: mark or measure the height of the forks respect to the trees because that affects steering handling if changed.

[NinjaShogun]

Originally Posted by Motofool

The other option is to remove the tank and hang the bike by the frame.

seems to be an echo in here.

[IF13]

Originally Posted by NinjaShogun

the easiest way ive found to replace a front end (forks, triple trees, stem) is to position a 6'-10' ladder (one that forms an "A" shape) over the tank (remove it to ensure you dont dent or scratch it), connect a tie down strap to either side of the frame an to the top of the ladder in a manner that allows you to use the ratcheting mechanism on the strap to lift your entire bike up off the ground. use a rearstand if you have one for extra stability. now you can loosen bolts on your triple trees, realign your forks, swap the entire front end, replace head bearings, or do what ever you need to do without fear of knocking your bike off of a pile of crap you haphazardly propped it up on.

I'll have to figure out how to use one of those tie down straps. I've never used them before and the only time I've seen them put in place is when I had my bike towed, looked kind of convenient. I actually do have a rear stand but I need to order spools to get them to work with me. As for denting tank, its so dented from the crash, I'd probably take it off only if it gets in the way of the horizontal bars.

Originally Posted by Motofool

I see, but it is not that bad, I have done it that way multiple times, the engine is strong.
The other option is to remove the tank and hang the bike by the frame, if you have some strong structure above the bike.
A front lift that hooks the tube of the steering column is another option.

If the twisting is not severe, you could try doing it on both wheels, releasing only the upper or the lower clamps of the trees, so both threes don't slide down the forks under the weight of the bike.

Something important: mark or measure the height of the forks respect to the trees because that affects steering handling if changed.

I was considering the steering column if my only other option was the engine (yes, yes I know it's a strong piece of work but still...). Thankfully both you and @NinnjaShogun support the use of the frame.

Originally Posted by NinjaShogun

seems to be an echo in here.

Quite an elaborate echo, if anything. Lol. But it's well appreciated.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by IF13

...........I was considering the steering column if my only other option was the engine (yes, yes I know it's a strong piece of work but still...). Thankfully both you and @NinnjaShogun support the use of the frame...........

This is a complementary idea:

Home made stand made from 1" black pipe

[IF13]

Hey, I'm back.

@Motofool I'm keeping that page in mind for when I decide to move but I have a garage and I was thinking of using the rafters. (I have a feeling someone mentioned it in on here)

EDIT: But no, seriously, that's a really cool setup. Would make me look like a real gear monkey but for now, it seems like this thread: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/a...p/t-58245.html is enough to persuade me my rafters can handle the load if the weight's distributed evenly. Heck, the rafter's already slightly exposed so I might punch several holes through the ceiling to get the straps around the rafter.

Anyways, I've given the bike a few runs since this thread started. The slight offset is unnoticeable but I'd still like to get it taken care of.

Also, I've decided to keep the gas tank and try to pop out the two major dents on it as best as I can. The other dents that aren't so popable are located on portions where the side fairings cover it. I'm thinking the only reason I'd have an issue is if the inside had some sort of rust preventing coating of some sort that may have been compromised because of these dents.

[Motofool]

[IF13]

Oh dang I was hoping you'd say something like, "Yeah, the dents didn't compromise anything inside the tank" or "Noooo don't do it, its already prone to rusting now"

[Motofool]

The dents don't compromise anything inside the tank.

Just calm down and ride on, a dented tank never stopped any bike.

[IF13]

Originally Posted by Motofool

The dents don't compromise anything inside the tank.

Just calm down and ride on, a dented tank never stopped any bike.

That's good news...which sort of counters the bad news I just received.

My fairing stay is still back ordered. I should've just bought OEM from the manufacturer. I got an aftermarket piece that the stealership ordered which was put in the system on the 13th. Supposedly I'm now going to get on Sept. 25th.

What is that ****. I can't mount my headlights or instrument cluster.

[Motofool]

Bummer !!!

[IF13]

oemninjaparts saved my butt, getting my bracket in two or three days

Also, lol @ HD riders waving to me while my front end's off then probably regretting it after looking back and seeing a sportbike tail.

[Motofool]

You have achieved two extraordinary things !!!