Ninja 250R Ecu / start up problem?

[hatashi]

Hi there,

I have a Ninja 250R 2009 Model (This bike is Fuel Injected so has no choke, UK model)

Recently I tried to start my bike and it wouldn't, then I looked and saw that my dash wasn't working, the oil light still showing red and the fuel indicator lights are both flashing. I can also hear a fast weird ticking noise, upon closer inspection this noise was coming from the ECU.

Now the bike doesn't start, the indicators don't work, the horn doesn't work, the lights don't work, basically all the electronics on the bike don't work. (with the ignition on or off)

Now the weird thing is when I turn off the ignition and arm the alarm, all the indicators still manage to flash? Either way, I checked all the 10amp / 15amp fuses and none of them seem to be blown - I also disconnected the battery and reconnected it to see if that would help but no luck.

I tried to push start the bike as well but it doesn't work, both the fuel and fuel injection lights just turn on solid -

Here's a video of what happens when I turn on my bike:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYyWCtVo-8E

UPDATE: The battery was out of charge even though the lights light up, I managed to jump start my bike with a car and everything's working fine!
Thanks to all of you who helped me out

[DaBlue1]

You may want to start with the basics. 1st check and make sure your battery has an good charge. Alarms put a constant drain on the battery. Although your lights are on, your amperage may be too low.
2nd disconnect any external electrical components (i.e. alarms, lights, outlets etc..) Disconnect then reconnect the battery terminals and see what the FI indicator light does.

[hatashi]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

You may want to start with the basics. 1st check and make sure your battery has an good charge. Alarms put a constant drain on the battery. Although your lights are on, your amperage may be too low.
2nd disconnect any external electrical components (i.e. alarms, lights, outlets etc..) Disconnect then reconnect the battery terminals and see what the FI indicator light does.

Thanks allot for your response I will have a go at this again, previously when I disconnected the indicators and alarm from the battery and just re-connected the mains, I found out that nothing on the dash would light up at all, and it still wouldn't start either. I'm not very experienced so can only do basics, I'll try disconnect the alarm from the battery as well as the indicators and I'll also need to get my hands on an amp/volt meter to check the battery's charge -

I'll let you know if I have any luck with this

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by hatashi

.........previously when I disconnected the indicators and alarm from the battery and just re-connected the mains, I found out that nothing on the dash would light up at all, and it still wouldn't start either.........

Welcome to our site, Manuel !!!

Maybe this feature is making those indicators flash:

"Can be programmed to provide Turn Signal Reminder."

http://bikealarmman.com/?p=acumen&i=cat21

[hatashi]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Welcome to our site, Manuel !!!

Maybe this feature is making those indicators flash:

"Can be programmed to provide Turn Signal Reminder."

http://bikealarmman.com/?p=acumen&i=cat21

Yeah normally if the indicators are on for more than 15 seconds its start beeping to let me know I've left it on, it's the most annoying feature, never bothered to look up how to disable it. I've just read through the whole manual of the alarm and managed to put it in 'service mode' which apparently disables the alarm, this stopped the blinking of the fuel and Fuel Injection lights. The rev counter and Engine Temp counter are both backlit, however the Speedometer isn't lighting up at all. I don't know what's causing this but I still can't get the bike started, I'm guessing the battery is probably low on charge by now?

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by hatashi

...........now you can see the fuel light flashing very dimly, the battery is probably low on charge by now?.........

Our batteries have a limited capacity and get discharged (under 12.2~12.4 volts) after some starting attempts.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_to_...attery_is_dead

I have no experience with fuel injected bikes, but as far as I have learned, those engines are harder or even impossible to start up by pushing when the battery is low.

I would put that battery on a slow charge (1~2 Amps max) for a few hours and disconnect the alarm, at least temporarily, as DaBlue1 has suggested above.

[hatashi]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Our batteries have a limited capacity and get discharged (under 12.2~12.4 volts) after some starting attempts.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_to_...attery_is_dead

I have no experience with fuel injected bikes, but as far as I have learned, those engines are harder or even impossible to start up by pushing when the battery is low.

I would put that battery on a slow charge (1~2 Amps max) for a few hours and disconnect the alarm, at least temporarily, as DaBlue1 has suggested above.

I've read the link you've sent me and it makes quite allot of sense with the problems I'm having. I don't have a Motorcycle battery charger so is there any other way I could charge it? I'll probably have to take it to a dealer, not ideal but nothing else I could do?

Either way thanks allot for your help, I hope this fixes the problem

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by hatashi

..........I don't have a Motorcycle battery charger so is there any other way I could charge it? I'll probably have to take it to a dealer, not ideal but nothing else I could do?............

You could charge it from a car or truck battery, but that would require a 10 ohm resistor (connected in-series) in order to limit the number of Amps.
Components connected in-series are connected along a single path, so the same current flows through all of the components.

A charger for car's batteries could work, if it delivers no more than 2 Amps.

Having a charger is convenient for situations like yours and those are not expensive ($20~$30).

You could also rule out your battery if you can connect a full car or truck battery (engine non-running) to the terminals in your bike and see if everything returns to normal with the proper voltage.

Sorry, as you see, your options are so limited as inconvenient.

You are very welcome

[hatashi]

Originally Posted by Motofool

You could charge it from a car or truck battery, but that would require a 10 ohm resistor (connected in-series) in order to limit the number of Amps.
Components connected in-series are connected along a single path, so the same current flows through all of the components.

A charger for car's batteries could work, if it delivers no more than 2 Amps.

Having a charger is convenient for situations like yours and those are not expensive ($20~$30).

You could also rule out your battery if you can connect a full car or truck battery (engine non-running) to the terminals in your bike and see if everything returns to normal with the proper voltage.

Sorry, as you see, your options are so limited as inconvenient.

You are very welcome

I managed to jump start my bike with a car and that did the trick! Honestly if it wasn't for you I wouldn't even have thought about that, most of the other lights lit up so I wouldn't think the battery would be dead but you made me think otherwise. Everything's working perfectly fine again, I rode the bike for a good 10 minutes and it's all good now!

Thanks once again!

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by hatashi

.........Thanks once again!

You are welcome

I am very sorry, I also forgot that option, as well as telling you that the engine of the car should be off during the jumping, in order to prevent possible damage to your internal electronics.

Glad you get her rolling again !!!

Keep an eye on the battery for signs of chronic weakness; sometimes, after deep discharges, they become "cranky".

[EsrTek]

Manuel, If you have a CycleGear near your rock, stop in and get a battery tender jr..
Don't know if you'll need it nightly, but better safe than sorry.