Ninja 250R Defect Thread

[jonthechron]

After disassembling the 250r to install several mods and do to it's periodic maintenance, I have noticed that the Ninja has some flaws of it's own.

The point of this thread to share information with current and future owners about things to look at, during the inspection and maintenance of the bike, so everyone can have the safest ride mechanically possible.

What I have noticed:

Rubbers that are protecting the brake cable from rain/water look like they have 10 years of sun and might cause a breaking problem in time.

[NickH]

I had a hole in the head of the motor (2009 with 1k miles). This caused radiator fluid to leak all over the bottom of the bike.

-Nick-
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[CZroe]

The rubber dampers under the passenger seat are often not fully inserted and fall out, despite glue. You can't "see" that they aren't all the way inserted either. It happens so fast that they get lost and most people have no idea there was ever anything even there.

The area around the keyhole with markings like "Lock" and "Off" will crack and flake off over time.

A little rubber piece that looks like a "U" with squared off corners is known to fall out. It has something to do with keeping the fairings/side panels from scratching the tank.

I think we all know about the CDI problem causing variable heat sensitive tach readings on some bikes (mine included).

The area around the keyhole is sensitive to key scrapes so I always separate my motorcycle and cable lock key from the others. I keep a plastic cap (from an ink pen) on the loose cable lock key and after 12.5K miles I can see that it's still causing wear in the black paint all around it. Of course, it's nowhere near as bad as I've seen on some extremely low mileage bikes where people sitck their full set of keys there.

Heck... my left bar end it starting to polish and become silver (instead of black) due to part of the grip being occupied by my handlebar remote. Everytime I look my hand is still comfortably on the remaining rubber, so it's still a little weird.

[jonthechron]

The tabs that mount the upper cowling to the frame are defective, they destroy every screw I put into them.

Possible security breach, being able to open the passenger seat without any keys or tools. (no details will be released)

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by jonthechron

The tabs that mount the upper cowling to the frame are defective, they destroy every screw I put into them.

Possible security breach, being able to open the passenger seat without any keys or tools. (no details will be released)

You mean, without breaking anything?
I lock my helmet all the time with a $300 Bluetooth kit (bulk is removed and under the seat).

[Sailariel]

Originally Posted by CZroe

You mean, without breaking anything?
I lock my helmet all the time with a $300 Bluetooth kit (bulk is removed and under the seat).

I bought a helmet case and carry it with me. The helmet stays protected and I don`t worry about rheft. I stick the empty case into my tank bag or tail bag when I am wearing the helmet.

[jonthechron]

Originally Posted by CZroe

You mean, without breaking anything?
I lock my helmet all the time with a $300 Bluetooth kit (bulk is removed and under the seat).

Yup that's correct, without breaking/damaging anything

[bdavison]

Jon, Im aware of that also, but there is a REALLY easy way to fix that.

[caliente103]

how to fix that

[Momaru]

Care to enlighten us? PM is fine since that'd keep the details of the 'break-in' method off the board for safety reasons.

[Méké]

Originally Posted by jonthechron

Rubbers that are protecting the brake cable from rain/water look like they have 10 years of sun and might cause a breaking problem in time.

Thanks for the hint man , l"ll look at that .

[jonthechron]

Originally Posted by bdavison

Jon, Im aware of that also, but there is a REALLY easy way to fix that.

I'm going to try something tomorrow, ill keep ya updated.

Yeah, I'm sure there is an easy/cheap fix.

[TrueFaith]

One of the biggest problems I've read about involves the shift foot lever falling off when the bolt that holds it backs out from use & vibration. It's never happened to me, but it's happened to enough new owners that I always make sure to check the shifter before each ride.

[backinthesaddleagain]

Originally Posted by TrueFaith

One of the biggest problems I've read about involves the shift foot lever falling off when the bolt that holds it backs out from use & vibration. It's never happened to me, but it's happened to enough new owners that I always make sure to check the shifter before each ride.

+1, heard that a few times as well. Mine hasn't but thanks for the reminder Wayne.

[jonthechron]

The mirrors also get loose due to vibration, loctite on the bolt solves this issue

[CZroe]

12,550 miles and my mirrors still stay put, so I know I don't have his problem. If I used the cover more often that may not be the case (I always have to readjust after using the elastic cover).

[Momaru]

Originally Posted by CZroe

12,550 miles and my mirrors still stay put, so I know I don't have his problem. If I used the cover more often that may not be the case (I always have to readjust after using the elastic cover).

11,900mi here, my mirror ball 'n' socket joints seem to be weakening a little, but I keep it covered when I'm not riding, meaning the cover goes on/comes off 5-8 times a week. Not failing yet, just needing more frequent adjustment than they have in the past.

[ScorpionNinja]

Yo, add the Gas tank Lock/Cap to this list!

I rode around to do some stuff, then on my way home i stopped to get gas.
I couldnt get the gas cap open. I tried for 12mins! There is clearly sumin wrong or defective with it.

My Key is perfect, not bent,etc!

So i stopped at the stealership on my way home. I had a mech take a look and so he ordered me a New Gas Cap-Lock and told me itll take a Week!!! Theyll call me when it comes in. Its still under warranty so Cost $0.00!


So now i CANT ride my bike for a week, cuz its on Vapors-Low!!!

[bdavison]

Ok, guys....

I have notified Kawasaki of the security vulnerability in the passenger seat cover. I dont know what they will do with it, other than perhaps issue a notification to bike owners, or perhaps just do a redesign with my modified parts plan for the 2011 bikes.

I do have a solution to the problem, that works and eliminates the vulnerability.

The issue now is how to get the info out to all you ninja riders. I think the best way to do this is just to post what part needs to be modified, with no explaination of why or how it works. Just a "do it" kinda of thing.

The other issue is that I would HIGHLY recommend you do not store anything of value in the tail, or lock your helmet to the bike using the supplied helmet lock. It is NOT secure, and can be defeated in less than 5 seconds.

[austexjg]

please do post the solution..

[TheDuck]

Add this to the list.

Change the oil and this comes out:

[ScorpionNinja]

Clutch Cable is showing signs of wear, at only 6,600 miles? Normal wear and tear on a cheap cable on our bikes?

If you squeeze the cable alil, you can see down it alil, where the cable comes up and into the handlebar!

Ill take a Pic later on this week, its cold out today and im not in the mood to play around with it. heh.

[deezyellownutz]

The wellnuts are junk. I took off my fairings to sell and attempted to save the wellnuts and they just disintegrated in my hands. They looked like they were on there for years.

[CZroe]

I could swear that my key would spring back to center when used in the fuel door but it stopped before my second service. I have to push it down and return it manually to remove the key. The dealers all tell me that it isn't supposed to spring back and that nothing is wrong. Who's right?

[kobachi]

Originally Posted by deezyellownutz

The wellnuts are junk. I took off my fairings to sell and attempted to save the wellnuts and they just disintegrated in my hands. They looked like they were on there for years.

+1

[Alex]

I've never had the key spring back on a ninjette; I think you may have been mistaken.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by Alex

I've never had the key spring back on a ninjette; I think you may have been mistaken.

Thanks.

[JokerSeven]

does the vulnerability issue with the passenger seat also apply to the solo seat cowl ?

[addy126]

Originally Posted by JokerSeven

does the vulnerability issue with the passenger seat also apply to the solo seat cowl ?

Most definately! Even easier to access. I just leave valuables in my jacket pockets and/or travel light.

[JokerSeven]

C'mon guys is there some super secret reason why you can't share how it is defective. I'm interested in looking for a fix.

[ScorpionNinja]

As in my post #22 here,

Heres Pics of the area of the clutch cable im talking about. The top of the cable , when clutch is fully pulled IN, shows some Fraying on it. Is this normal for a 2009 bike with only 6,600 miles on it?

Clutch operation is smooth and easy.

Its hard to tell in these pics, vs the Naked Eye, but the slight fraying isnt nutin like if half of teh cable thickness itself was fraying, but just afew strains on top when clutch is fully pulled in.

[kkim]

when was the last time that cable was greased and lubed?

[ScorpionNinja]

Originally Posted by kkim

when was the last time that cable was greased and lubed?

Never, heh

When ive washed my bike ive always set a old rag/sock over the brake/clutch levers so water cant Force into the cable during washing.

Manual says 600 miles, then every 7.5k miles, to have clutch looked at adjusted lubed,etc! But Mines never felt loose or doesnt feel any different from the day i first rode it home from the dealer!

[kkim]

perhaps you should. grease on the cable might help prevent the fraying. no maintenance on an item that should be properly maintained is no reason for it to be considered a defect.

also, and I have no proof of this, but try to align the openings of the adjuster so they are not lined up with one another to prevent the cable from rubbing on the edges of the adjuster cutout. I got this idea from looking at pictures of the only other person that has had a clutch cable failure from fraying.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=16000

[TheDuck]

Some people said I should post my rearset explosion damage in this thread.

Link to original page on YouTube.

Link to original page on YouTube.

[tjkamper]

Bellows from the Carbs to the Airbox were not propperly installed when I get the bike brand new. Easy fix (loosen the clamps, straighted them out and slide them over the mouths of the carbs, tighten clamps).

The cluch lever bolt was over torqued from the factory and had sheered off. After about 1000 miles the lever would vibrate profusely. I removed the bolt, in two pieces. Easy fix, had to wait for part. (New bolt was about 6 bucks).

Lower fairng bolts under the side stand and next to the exhaust shake loose very easily. (Tighten them regularly).

[TheDuck]

Originally Posted by tjkamper

Bellows from the Carbs to the Airbox were not propperly installed when I get the bike brand new. Easy fix (loosen the clamps, straighted them out and slide them over the mouths of the carbs, tighten clamps).

SAME EXACT PROBLEM on Diemuzi's bike, too!

Fix is easy, but getting to those clamps isn't. Lots of work.. very time-consuming, especially to someone that hasn't done this type of work before.

[tjkamper]

OH YEAH...

From the factory all of the bikes came with a big protruding piece of black plastic hanging off the tail from behind the plate mount. Hack that crap off!!!

[tjkamper]

Originally Posted by TheDuck

SAME EXACT PROBLEM on Diemuzi's bike, too!

Fix is easy, but getting to those clamps isn't. Lots of work.. very time-consuming, especially to someone that hasn't done this type of work before.

Yeah it is a really tight fit. You have to take off the tank to get a good angle. It's not hard to fix, but it is a royal PITA.

[tjkamper]

Originally Posted by CZroe

The rubber dampers under the passenger seat are often not fully inserted and fall out, despite glue. You can't "see" that they aren't all the way inserted either. It happens so fast that they get lost and most people have no idea there was ever anything even there.

I replaced mine with some harder rubber from the ends of some old valve stems I had in the garage. I cut off the stem, and inserted the ball stub into the holes for the original bushings and stuck them with epoxy. The seat sits better with the harder rubber and those new rubbers are not comming off easily.

It was an unusual and creative fix, but I think it is a good improvement.