Running Lights

[Mazakawi]

So after seeing This Thread by Vex I started thinking of ways to turn the OEM signals into parking lights while still using them as signals.

I came up with the following Wiring diagram for my idea.


That relay is a normally on relay that when switched will remove power from the light. My thinking is that I will have the stock signal flasher trigger the relay thus removing the power from the light and causing it to flash. When the Flasher turns back off it will remove power from the relay and the light should come back on.

I would use all OEM style connectors to make it so I can simply unplug the system and reattach the original connections if I wanted to put it back to stock.

Another thought I just came up with while writing this post:

I could add a ON/OFF/ON switch that would allow me to switch which of the two pins (87 or 87a) on the relay I was using for activating the turn signals on either side. ON1 for the switch would make my signals into parking lights and use the flasher to turn the bulbs off to flash. ON2 would use the other pin as the hot pin and make it so that the lights would function the same as stock.

Using a DPDT switch I could use a single switch to change back and forth between the two whenever I wanted. I would mount the switch with my relays in the rear in place of the toolkit.

Here's the diagram with a switch added in:


Obviously I wouldn't use the center off Position unless for some reason I felt like rolling without signals. The Flash position at the top would make the signals function the same way as they do from the factory. The Park position at the bottom would enable them as parking lights and they would then flash when I turned on the turn signal.

The bulb near the bottom by the Turn Signal Switch is the Dash Indicator light. By putting it before the relays I'm hoping it should only be activated by the switch when I have my signals on and not when the signals are off.

I'm just wondering if anybody has any other ideas or thoughts about this. It would be a lot easier if we had a dual filament bulb but with only the single filament I think this is the best way to do this.

I also don't want to tap or cut any of the factory wiring which is why I'm waiting for OEM style connectors. I want to be able to remove my entire system without any trace of it left on the bike if need be. Everything will be crimped and wrapped in heat shrink tubing properly.

This is something I am likely going to be working on over the next few weeks. I need to order the OEM Turn Signal connectors online and they could take up to 10 days to get here.

I'll also be using my bike as transportation to and from work for a few more weeks unless it starts raining again or gets too cold.

[dubojr1]

I like it!!! Any way to add hazard?

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by dubojr1

I like it!!! Any way to add hazard?

Yeap.
You can hack up your wires or...
Swap your left hand control pod for one that was used on older Kawasakis. The part number is #46091-1857. Search on Ron Ayers to see the various models that came with this part.
All you have to do is remove your left control pod and replace it with the new one. Simple plug n play. Cost $103.69 @ Ron Ayers.

[CThunder-blue]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Yeap.
You can hack up your wires or...
Swap your left hand control pod for one that was used on older Kawasakis. The part number is #46091-1857. Search on Ron Ayers to see the various models that came with this part.
All you have to do is remove your left control pod and replace it with the new one. Simple plug n play. Cost $103.69 @ Ron Ayers.

That's a clean solution, but dang, $104 for hazard lights hurts. I installed my hazard lights for under $20.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=78201

[greatwhiteninja]

yeah $104 is alot.. i did my led running lights like in my avatar for under $20 as well.

[dubojr1]

I want parking, running lights, and hazards.

[greatwhiteninja]

What about fog lights mounted at the bottom of the forks? ?

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by greatwhiteninja

What about fog lights mounted at the bottom of the forks? ?

What about it....? This thread is about running lights.

[choneofakind]

Dumb question. When you turn the key to the park position, is the license plate light supposed to light up along with the running light? I have my turn signals wired up as running lights and use the power from what used to be the license plate light. (my plate is lit by a clear lens in my tail light) I thought that by wiring this way, I could get my running lights to light up when I put the key in the park position, but they don't; just the tail light.

also Mazakawi, did you wire your rear turn signals to be running lights as well?
here's what I used as a guide when I did mine. Only difference is that I used asiancycle flushmounts instead

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/I_want_...pods_into_DRLs

I kind of wish I had just purchased these instead. They would have been so much easier than what I did, but my way works just fine.

http://www.tobefast.com/customled-ma...er-pr-479.html

[greatwhiteninja]

Originally Posted by dubojr1

What about it....? This thread is about running lights.

You mentioned hazards so I figured u might want fogs too ..

[Mazakawi]

This thread has nothing to do with hazards or foglights. If you want Hazard Lights CTThunder has a DIY on it in the Farkles section.

I haven't done this yet as I am waiting for a bunch of OEM style connectors to arrive from Japan. Once I have them I can build the system.

The OEM connectors will make it so that I can simply unplug the stock connections and plug my system in between the stock wiring and the OEM signals wires.

[CThunder-blue]

I'm not looking at the manual, but is the turn signal switch normally energized? For some reason, I keep thinking that in it's off position, the circuit is open. If that's the case, connecting pin 30 to the switch won't give you any voltage to power on the lights.

[kcaja1]

I am doing this myself but I went a different route. I bought 2 sets of dual filament bulbs/stalks off ebay for front and rear. If you notice, these are all clear lens with amber bulbs. I found out that running amber lights for rear are illegal so, I will replace those ambers with reds for rear once I get them.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd=...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

I think this is the easier approach and most visible and still maintaining OEM look.

[Mazakawi]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

I'm not looking at the manual, but is the turn signal switch normally energized? For some reason, I keep thinking that in it's off position, the circuit is open. If that's the case, connecting pin 30 to the switch won't give you any voltage to power on the lights.

You are correct that the signal switch is not energized when off. Thats why this works. That relay provides power to pin 87a from pin 86 when there's no power applied to pin 30. When i turn on the signal switch it will apply power to pin 30 which will remove power from pin 87a and apply power to pin 87.

When my DPDT switch is set to PARK it will be passing power through to the OEM signals. When i activate the signal switch it will trigger the relay. The stock flasher is in the circuit before the signal switch. So the signal switch wil then apply power to pin 30 and remove power from pin 87a which will cause the lights to turn off on one side.

When the DPDT switch is in the FLASH position it will provide power from pin 87 to the lights. Then when I activate my turn signal switch it will trigger the relay to remove power from pin 87a and apply power to pin 87. This will cause the signals to flash the same way they did from the factory.

That relay is the key to the entire system. Without it this couldn't work.

To install my harness I will just unplug all 4 of the OEM turn signal plugs on each corner. Then I am going to plug the stock plugs going from the turn signal switch to the rear signals into my harness and they will be attached to pin 30. The plugs going to the front signals will be capped off behind my front fairings. I will then attach the output from the DPDT switch to the OEM signals using OEM style plugs. I will just run 1 wire diwn each side of the bike from the relays mounted in the tail to attach to the front signal plugs. The rear signal plugs should be pretty easy to hookup since they are right by the battery.

Originally Posted by kcaja1

I am doing this myself but I went a different route. I bought 2 sets of dual filament bulbs/stalks off ebay for front and rear. If you notice, these are all clear lens with amber bulbs. I found out that running amber lights for rear are illegal so, I will replace those ambers with reds for rear once I get them.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd=...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

I think this is the easier approach and most visible and still maintaining OEM look.

I wanted it to look 100% stock from the outside. Even to people who know motorcycles and what the signals should look like. Also, if I wanted to I can completely remove my harness and just plug the 4 stock connectors back in and the factory system will still be there. That way if I decide to remove it or if a relay fails I will still have my stock turn signal circuit completely in tact.

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by Mazakawi

This thread has nothing to do with hazards or foglights.

Just wanted to add to the "idea's or thoughts" you quoted earlier...

Originally Posted by Mazakawi

I'm just wondering if anybody has any other ideas or thoughts about this.

[CThunder-blue]

Originally Posted by Mazakawi

You are correct that the signal switch is not energized when off. Thats why this works. That relay provides power to pin 87a from pin 86 when there's no power applied to pin 30. When i turn on the signal switch it will apply power to pin 30 which will remove power from pin 87a and apply power to pin 87.

I don't know much about DPDT, but I thought we were talking SPDT? In the SPDT, if pin 30 isn't energized to start with, you don't get any power through 87a or 87.

Scroll half way down this page and play with the flash file on the SPDT. When pin 30 has no voltage, neither 87 nor 87a has any power.

[Mazakawi]

Originally Posted by dubojr1

Just wanted to add to the "idea's or thoughts" you quoted earlier...

As in ideas or other thought about the running lights project.

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

I don't know much about DPDT, but I thought we were talking SPDT? In the SPDT, if pin 30 isn't energized to start with, you don't get any power through 87a or 87.

Scroll half way down this page and play with the flash file on the SPDT. When pin 30 has no voltage, neither 87 nor 87a has any power.

SPDT: Single Pole Double Throw

DPDT: Double Pole Double Throw

Basically, a DPDT switch is that just two SPDT switches combined into one and controlled by the same rocker.

Thank you for that webpage. I had my wiring wrong. I was thinking pin 86 was the input voltage that then gets sent out through pin 87/87a and that pin 30 was the switching input used to determine where it went.

After reading that it seems that I had those two pins backwards. 30 is input voltage and 86 is the switch.

After playing around with my test circuit I built I've determined this to be the way that my relays are functioning too.

[CThunder-blue]

If it works the same way as a SPDT, then I'm still right. You should consider a different source for pin 30.

[Mazakawi]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

If it works the same way as a SPDT, then I'm still right. You should consider a different source for pin 30.

As I said. You are correct. My original diagrams posted above are wrong.

The wires for Pins 30 and 86 should be swapped in those diagrams. So pin 30 will be hooked to the battery via fused line. Pin 86 will be hooked up to the turn signal switch.

I'll change them when I get home tonight. Can't edit them on my phone.

[CThunder-blue]

I wouldn't hook up 30 directly to the battery. You want 30 on a switched +12v so it's only on when the bike is on, but it should be energized when the bike is on. You can install the switch to the turn signals on either 85 or 86.

[Mazakawi]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

I wouldn't hook up 30 directly to the battery. You want 30 on a switched +12v so it's only on when the bike is on, but it should be energized when the bike is on. You can install the switch to the turn signals on either 85 or 86.

Alright. Any recommendations on where to get that switched 12v from?

[CThunder-blue]

You could tap into the solid orange wire off the flasher relay. That should provide a switched +12v source.