Tools needed for shimming...

evi1joe · December 2nd, 2011, 11:20 AM

I've seen the pic in the DIY, but didn't see a list.
I know there are a few things, but don't know the names or sizes.
Any suggestions?

1). A super long screwdriver (is this the special JIS one?). What size? Does Lowes or Home Depot have it?
2). Scissor clips to extract the needle (and grease)
3). Some kind of special angled ratchet tool (maybe)? Which one and size?
4). A long socket extension...what size sockets? I have a metric set.
5). The shims (can find these at radio shack, though I wish there was a way to do the depth of 2.5 shims since I'm doing exhaust and snorkel).
6). I'm hoping to do this without removing the fairing--just bend it aside a bit with newspaper like in the DIY....is this a bad idea for a newbie?

ANYTHING ELSE?
Thanks. Nervously awaiting free time tonight.

Scattcatt · December 2nd, 2011, 01:00 PM

When I do carb work, I personally haven't had a problem with using a Phillips head screw driver, and I've yanked the carb assembly off about 7 or 8 times now, just as long as you press hard enough, the screws (in my case at least) don't strip and you don't damage the heads. JIS will definitely make your life easier though, as for sizing though, I'm not sure.

The angled ratchet tool isn't necessary if you remove the carbs entirely, I tried to use a snake driver and it was just too much of a hassle, I found it easier the old fashioned way, but that could be because I have yet to find an angle driver I like (can't find that Milwakee one here surprisingly)

Not sure what you need the sockets for, I don't recall ever using them, metric is all you should need regardless even if there is something you use them for that I obviously don't remember lol.

If you feel uncomfortable bending the fairing, just remove it, it's not hard at all, one of those things where after you do it once, you'll be wondering why this intimidated you at all lol, same with carburetor work in general. Don't worry, it's really easy, I'm sure you'll do fine, and it's great to see another person get out there and take the plunge into taking care of their own bike! Good luck!

Edit: I realized you're only doing shims... I kept thinking jet work for whatever reason. Shims are going to be even easier, DEFINITELY not something to worry about, seat off, gas tank off (didn't know you could do this without taking the fairings off though) and BAM! Carbs are right there! Take the tops off, pull the needles, put the new shims on, reassemble and you're good to go!

Felipe the Ant · December 2nd, 2011, 01:17 PM

10mm socket to take the fuel tank off, really long or really short screwdriver for the caps, #2 phillips I think? JIS will be better though. You need a bigger phillips for the side covers and hexes for the fairings and seat. I don't know exactly what size but I'm pretty sure they're 4mm and 6mm. You also don't need to take the fairings off to remove the fuel tank, just unbolt them from the tank and on the sides and you should be able to bend them just enough to slide the tank out. Also don't forget to attach the front tank line on reassembly like I always do lol.

Edit: Oh and you need a pair of tweezers to get the needles out, they're not magnetic IIRC

A pair of pliers too for hose clamps unless you have gorilla hands. I use needle nose but any will do

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-3.../dp/B0000224AW - Also this thing is amazing and it makes everything so much easier. Especially jetting changes

evi1joe · December 2nd, 2011, 01:49 PM

Thanks. I wanted to use 3mm washers instead o the #4 ANSI, since I'm doing 3 (and they're a bit thinner). Starting with 3 since kkim had so much success with exhaust, desnorkeling, and 3 shims. If I don't desnorkel, I'll do two of the #4s.

We're set for 9pm tonight and hope to be done by 11pm (even though the DIY says 4 hours). My friend is super mechanically inclined and strips his bikes and cars down go the bones, so this should be cakewalk for him.

Felipe the Ant · December 2nd, 2011, 10:19 PM

I have a full exhaust and no airbox and I use the equivalent of 2 washers. But every bike is different. You'll know when you have it when you pop the front up shifting into 2nd at WOT.

Scattcatt · December 2nd, 2011, 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Felipe the Ant

I have a full exhaust and no airbox and I use the equivalent of 2 washers. But every bike is different. You'll know when you have it when you pop the front up shifting into 2nd at WOT.

They can do that?

Felipe the Ant · December 3rd, 2011, 02:55 AM

lol hardly. I only notice it because the bars wiggle

it's only when I'm wot and power shifting and sitting back

December 2nd, 2011, 11:20 AM	#1
evi1joe ninjette.org member Name: jOE Location: Jacksonville Join Date: Nov 2011 Motorcycle(s): none yet (getting a 250R) Posts: 68	Tools needed for shimming... I've seen the pic in the DIY, but didn't see a list. I know there are a few things, but don't know the names or sizes. Any suggestions? 1). A super long screwdriver (is this the special JIS one?). What size? Does Lowes or Home Depot have it? 2). Scissor clips to extract the needle (and grease) 3). Some kind of special angled ratchet tool (maybe)? Which one and size? 4). A long socket extension...what size sockets? I have a metric set. 5). The shims (can find these at radio shack, though I wish there was a way to do the depth of 2.5 shims since I'm doing exhaust and snorkel). 6). I'm hoping to do this without removing the fairing--just bend it aside a bit with newspaper like in the DIY....is this a bad idea for a newbie? ANYTHING ELSE? Thanks. Nervously awaiting free time tonight.

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December 2nd, 2011, 01:00 PM	#2
Scattcatt ninjette.org sage Name: Zach Location: Michigan Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2003 Honda CBR600RR Posts: 721 Blog Entries: 1	When I do carb work, I personally haven't had a problem with using a Phillips head screw driver, and I've yanked the carb assembly off about 7 or 8 times now, just as long as you press hard enough, the screws (in my case at least) don't strip and you don't damage the heads. JIS will definitely make your life easier though, as for sizing though, I'm not sure. The angled ratchet tool isn't necessary if you remove the carbs entirely, I tried to use a snake driver and it was just too much of a hassle, I found it easier the old fashioned way, but that could be because I have yet to find an angle driver I like (can't find that Milwakee one here surprisingly) Not sure what you need the sockets for, I don't recall ever using them, metric is all you should need regardless even if there is something you use them for that I obviously don't remember lol. If you feel uncomfortable bending the fairing, just remove it, it's not hard at all, one of those things where after you do it once, you'll be wondering why this intimidated you at all lol, same with carburetor work in general. Don't worry, it's really easy, I'm sure you'll do fine, and it's great to see another person get out there and take the plunge into taking care of their own bike! Good luck! Edit: I realized you're only doing shims... I kept thinking jet work for whatever reason. Shims are going to be even easier, DEFINITELY not something to worry about, seat off, gas tank off (didn't know you could do this without taking the fairings off though) and BAM! Carbs are right there! Take the tops off, pull the needles, put the new shims on, reassemble and you're good to go! __________________________________________________ ATGATT

December 2nd, 2011, 01:17 PM	#3
Felipe the Ant ninjette.org sage Name: . Location: . Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R SE GREEN! Posts: 562	10mm socket to take the fuel tank off, really long or really short screwdriver for the caps, #2 phillips I think? JIS will be better though. You need a bigger phillips for the side covers and hexes for the fairings and seat. I don't know exactly what size but I'm pretty sure they're 4mm and 6mm. You also don't need to take the fairings off to remove the fuel tank, just unbolt them from the tank and on the sides and you should be able to bend them just enough to slide the tank out. Also don't forget to attach the front tank line on reassembly like I always do lol. Edit: Oh and you need a pair of tweezers to get the needles out, they're not magnetic IIRC A pair of pliers too for hose clamps unless you have gorilla hands. I use needle nose but any will do http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-3.../dp/B0000224AW - Also this thing is amazing and it makes everything so much easier. Especially jetting changes

December 2nd, 2011, 01:49 PM	#4
evi1joe ninjette.org member Name: jOE Location: Jacksonville Join Date: Nov 2011 Motorcycle(s): none yet (getting a 250R) Posts: 68	Thanks. I wanted to use 3mm washers instead o the #4 ANSI, since I'm doing 3 (and they're a bit thinner). Starting with 3 since kkim had so much success with exhaust, desnorkeling, and 3 shims. If I don't desnorkel, I'll do two of the #4s. We're set for 9pm tonight and hope to be done by 11pm (even though the DIY says 4 hours). My friend is super mechanically inclined and strips his bikes and cars down go the bones, so this should be cakewalk for him.

December 2nd, 2011, 10:19 PM	#5
Felipe the Ant ninjette.org sage Name: . Location: . Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R SE GREEN! Posts: 562	I have a full exhaust and no airbox and I use the equivalent of 2 washers. But every bike is different. You'll know when you have it when you pop the front up shifting into 2nd at WOT.

December 3rd, 2011, 02:55 AM	#7
Felipe the Ant ninjette.org sage Name: . Location: . Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R SE GREEN! Posts: 562	lol hardly. I only notice it because the bars wiggle it's only when I'm wot and power shifting and sitting back