So, if your starter does not work would you consider this?

[peterpayne]

Would you ride around with a short cable to short the bolts on the solenoid in order to bypass the starter sequence? While you get around to troubleshoot and fix the real problem? Any risk of damage for the ninjette?

Thanks!

[verboten1]

It sounds like your starter is fine, if jumping the solenoid gets the bike going. I left for a 600 mile trip to TN using a screw driver to jump the terminals on my bike.

So, yeah, been there!

[Aodrn]

+1. Sounds like a solenoid. Screwdriver makes a great jumper

[alex.s]

easier to just bump start it in 3rd gear.

[peterpayne]

Originally Posted by alex.s

easier to just bump start it in 3rd gear.

it normally would be, but my ninjette is currently naked...

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by peterpayne

it normally would be, but my ninjette is currently naked...

what does that change?

[crazymadbastard]

Originally Posted by alex.s

what does that change?

since its naked easier access to starter solenoid.

[alex.s]

it's actually still easier to just bump start it than it is to put it in neutral, get out a screw driver, jump the solenoid, put the screw driver back, then go...... but do what you want

[peterpayne]

Originally Posted by alex.s

it's actually still easier to just bump start it than it is to put it in neutral, get out a screw driver, jump the solenoid, put the screw driver back, then go...... but do what you want

To be honest I just haven't tried it, I will later today but yeah, my reasoning about the ninjette being naked is that the solenoid is easier to access.

I think it's better to try something before dismissing it.

[peterpayne]

Originally Posted by alex.s

put the screw driver back, then go......

Yeah, that's why I said a piece of cable, I don't have saddlebags, and would not feel safe carrying a screwdriver in my jacket while riding... lol!

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by peterpayne

Would you ride around with a short cable to short the bolts on the solenoid in order to bypass the starter sequence? While you get around to troubleshoot and fix the real problem? Any risk of damage for the ninjette?

Thanks!

It wont hurt the electrical, but bear in mind that you are creating sparks only two inches from the gas tank.

Shorting the two nuts on the solenoid doesn't prove the solenoid doesn't work, it just proves the starter does work. To test the solenoid, you need to apply neg and pos to the spade terminals to activate the coil.

[peterpayne]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

It wont hurt the electrical, but bear in mind that you are creating sparks only two inches from the gas tank.

Shorting the two nuts on the solenoid doesn't prove the solenoid doesn't work, it just proves the starter does work. To test the solenoid, you need to apply neg and pos to the spade terminals to activate the coil.

I tested the solenoid and it's good,

I tested the following...

Starter switch, kill switch, clutch swith, side stand switch, neutral switch they're all working.

Next I checked the starter by jumping the bolts on the solenoid and it works.

Then I went and checked the solenoid by making the starter crank while jumping the blades as some other post indicated, and it cranked.

So I'm open to suggestions as to what to check next.

Thanks,

[n4mwd]

There is a starter interlock relay in there also. That is what combines all the outputs from the switches into a voltage for the solenoid. Its in the junction box where the fuses are. It gets pos voltage through a diode that is connected to the starter switch. It gets neg power from the clutch switch.

The clutch and neutral switches also control the ECU interlock so if it runs fine once it gets started, then those switches are probably OK. But you should try starting with and without the clutch being pulled to see if that makes a difference.

So its time to find the interlock relay (don't confuse it with the headlight relay) and measure the voltage at its coils when you press the starter button.

[peterpayne]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

There is a starter interlock relay in there also. That is what combines all the outputs from the switches into a voltage for the solenoid. Its in the junction box where the fuses are. It gets pos voltage through a diode that is connected to the starter switch. It gets neg power from the clutch switch.

The clutch and neutral switches also control the ECU interlock so if it runs fine once it gets started, then those switches are probably OK. But you should try starting with and without the clutch being pulled to see if that makes a difference.

So its time to find the interlock relay (don't confuse it with the headlight relay) and measure the voltage at its coils when you press the starter button.

Thanks, will look into that, I've checked the clutch and neutral switches, so I'll start looking around for such relay, and hope for the best.