August 2nd, 2017, 10:05 AM | #1 |
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Name: AJ
Location: Green Valley, IL
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***project fender begone***
Got a 4 day weekend starting Friday and Lucy is gonna get some love. First on the agenda, fender elimination. Anyone who's done it themselves on the cheap please post here give links to videos and write ups. I'll listen to everyone's method. I'm not paying $100 for a kit. I've become a great DYI kind of lady. Thanks!
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August 2nd, 2017, 10:23 AM | #2 |
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Name: Kevin
Location: Portland, OR
Join Date: Oct 2013 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R, Tiger 800 XRT Posts: 828
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Here are a few threads, they're on newgens, but it should give you some ideas:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=21044 https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=21090 http://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-250r...tra-parts.html
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August 2nd, 2017, 10:25 AM | #3 |
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It can be done for free!!! This guide shows you how: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=21090
Don't remove fender all way up to tail-light. Leave about 5-6cm to bolt plate-bracket to it. I want to use use tail-light bulb to light up licence-plate too. Looking for way to cover up bottom of tail-light with clear plastic if I cut an opening. Might just get some small LED lights. |
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August 2nd, 2017, 02:08 PM | #4 |
????????????????
Name: T
Location: no where
Join Date: Feb 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2007 ninja 250, 14 ninja 300, 09 1125CR Posts: A lot.
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Hey guys he has a pre gen
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August 2nd, 2017, 04:09 PM | #5 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: AJ
Location: Green Valley, IL
Join Date: May 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2001 Kawasaki Ninja 250r(SOLD) 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 250r full Muzzy(my pride and joy) Posts: 331
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"A car or truck will get you from point A to B. But a motorcycle, that is the point." -unknown |
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August 2nd, 2017, 04:58 PM | #6 |
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Name: AKA JacRyann
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Whoops, sorry. Here's one that'll work: https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/I_want..._rear_fender_1
CD case is good idea. I'm going to try that on my bike! |
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August 3rd, 2017, 04:01 AM | #7 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: AJ
Location: Green Valley, IL
Join Date: May 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2001 Kawasaki Ninja 250r(SOLD) 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 250r full Muzzy(my pride and joy) Posts: 331
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Quote:
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"A car or truck will get you from point A to B. But a motorcycle, that is the point." -unknown |
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August 6th, 2017, 09:31 AM | #8 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: AJ
Location: Green Valley, IL
Join Date: May 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2001 Kawasaki Ninja 250r(SOLD) 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 250r full Muzzy(my pride and joy) Posts: 331
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Dragging my feet on this job. Have a friend with an '07 just one year newer than mine. He just innocently said his fender simply "unscrewed" from the tail. Anyone confirm this? His did in fact just unscrew. He was able to keep his turn signals as well.
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"A car or truck will get you from point A to B. But a motorcycle, that is the point." -unknown |
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August 6th, 2017, 12:43 PM | #9 |
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Name: AKA JacRyann
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Here's another guide https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/I_want..._rear_fender_2
The fender does unbolt. But you have to mount turn-signals and licence plate somewhere. |
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August 7th, 2017, 07:48 AM | #10 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: AJ
Location: Green Valley, IL
Join Date: May 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2001 Kawasaki Ninja 250r(SOLD) 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 250r full Muzzy(my pride and joy) Posts: 331
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Quote:
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"A car or truck will get you from point A to B. But a motorcycle, that is the point." -unknown |
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August 7th, 2017, 11:32 AM | #11 |
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I think you have to hack off bottom of fender but leave some at top to hold licence-plate and turn-signals.
Dremel may be too small for this. Cutting disc melts plastic fender and it just sticks to disc. Smaller teethed cutter will work, but it's almost not big enough to penetrate. I draw a line for cut, then use jig-saw. Or a sawz-all.Or angle-grinder. Or you can hand-cut it with hacksaw. Many options. You can even take the Alcatraz approach and nibble off little at time with end-nippers or dykes. Any mistakes will be minor and easily corrected. |
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August 23rd, 2017, 01:23 AM | #12 |
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August 23rd, 2017, 04:28 AM | #13 | |
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Name: Bill
Location: Port Huron, Michigan
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Quote:
Bill
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March 1st, 2018, 03:37 PM | #14 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Adam
Location: Sardis
Join Date: Jul 2014 Motorcycle(s): 1996 ninja 250 Posts: 49
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totally works i did this to my old oem style tail light and routed the signals into the pods on either side of the main tail light i might still have the part kicking around if you want to buy it as I've updated the look since
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March 5th, 2018, 08:58 AM | #15 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Charlie
Location: Brick NJ
Join Date: Feb 2018 Motorcycle(s): Harley Fatboy, Honda CX500, Harley XL1200C Sportster, 305 Honda Dream, Ninja 250 Posts: 174
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I think I read some where here in the USA the turn signals have to be at least a certain distance apart. Those very nice holes in the brake light assembly are not meant for use as turn signals in the US. What they are really good for is place to put a couple of very bright LEDs hooked to a brake flasher unit. The kind of flasher that strobes for a few seconds and then goes constant on until you let off the brakes.
Superbright LEDs has all the parts including the flasher units. I have been using them for years on several of my bikes. Very simple install in most cases. The LEDs could be just hot glued into the ninja brake light assembly. Same for the flasher controller. |
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March 5th, 2018, 05:49 PM | #16 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Adam
Location: Sardis
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I never had a problem here up in Canada but you could be right about the states
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March 5th, 2018, 07:31 PM | #17 |
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Name: AKA JacRyann
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According to DOT FMVSS 108, turn signals on bikes able to go +30mph has to be 16" apart minimum. There are also photometric measurements of minimum and maximum brightness. I've found a lot of LED signals to be too dim.
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March 5th, 2018, 09:28 PM | #18 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Bill
Location: Port Huron, Michigan
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Quote:
Bill Bill
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Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again expecting different results each time. |
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