Takes forever to start

[surlistyc]

So recently, my bike has been taking a while to start. and by a while, I have to sit there for 5 minutes with the ignition, and putting just the right amount of choke and gas.

So a couple days ago, I noticed some coolant under my bike, and traced it back to the pipe right on the cylinder head cover, that connects to here (In the picture)



I've looked at it, and have replaced the O-ring, but it doesn't look like it seats in right, it still has "play" when the cylinder head cover is on and tightened. My point is, maybe that has something to do with my bike not starting right?

When I eventually get it running, and I have to stop at a store, and come back out, it turns on just fine when it's hot. But even letting it sit for 30 minutes, I have to make sure someone is around with jumper cables, or else my battery will die from how long it takes to start.

It really seems like my bike is flooded when I try and start it. I honestly am not sure what's the actual problem.

[surlistyc]

ok... with that picture.. I'm pretty sure that's what I'm talking about. I know it comes right above the engine. with a metal pipe, then leads off into a hose.

[cuong-nutz]

I noticed mine was leaking when I did my second valve adjustment. The o ring is the same one that you replace when you do an oil change. You have to replace those little rubber "dampers" that fit on the pipe and the valve cover pushes down on it to keep the pipe from moving too much or popping out.

How many miles are on your bike? When was the last time you did a valve adjustment? Are your carbs synced? Take a look at your spark plugs. How do they look?

Valves out of spec can cause hard starts as well as fouled plugs. Looking at your plugs can tell you the condition of your engine. Also, is the radiator still full? When was the oil changed?

[KELPHYN]

That's just a coolant hose. It will have a little play/wiggle as it is just sealed with the o-ring and held down by the valve cover. Won't have anything to do with bike being hard to start. If you have been riding your bike regularily (hasn't been parked for a couple of weeks) and it just started to get hard to start; I would first check sparkplugs and airfilter. Can you smell raw gas when you're trying to start it? May be a plugged air way in a carb.

When was the last time you checked/adjusted your valves? Being that it starts easy warm/hot would lead me to think the intake gap is to much. Make sure your bike is completely cold when you adjust your valves (let it sit overnight)

Just some thoughts.

[surlistyc]

Yeah, it started leaking after I adjusted the valves, (less than a month ago). I was replacing a head gasket, then found a broken rocker arm. got all that replaced and it ran just fine, then about a week or so ago, My friend and I cleaned the carbs, then a couple days ago, I noticed coolant leaking from the mentioned hose. It doesn't leak from the hose though, it leaks from the bottom of that pipe.

I'm sure my carbs are synced.
27k miles (I know... lol)
Changed the oil when we did the valves
Radiator is "full" minus the little bit that leaks out. (I check it constantly)
I think it is raw gas that I smell

I'll check the plugs tomorrow

Just throwing this out there. On the bottom of the carbs, there are jets (I want to say) that can be backed out (and is usually plugged with a piece of metal), and I think that might have something to do with it? I mean, after we cleaned the carbs, I rode it around and noticed that when the RPM needle dropped to about 3k it would almost stop there and then slowly come back down. Horrible idle on cold start up to. So we backed out those "jets?" and it seemed to help a little with that? maybe this could have something to do with it as well?

[surlistyc]

and I guess I should mention, that when I am getting my bike to start, it "responds" better when I give it A LOT of throttle, 1/2 - 3/4.

[cuong-nutz]

How did yall clean the carbs? Tear it down completely and soak the parks and cleared out all the orifices and passageways?

[surlistyc]

No, we didn't get that extensive. But my friend said that they definitely weren't the worst he's seen.

I don't know what it is, But I have a feeling it's doing this because of the carbs, (whatever carb problem that might be)

[surlistyc]

and to richen my bike, do I back out the jets under the emissions plugs or do I screw them in, to richen the mixture?

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Have you thought about testing the battery? Most auto shops will do it for free. I had mine tested today it took 30s and they're trickle-charging it right now for free too.

You said if you leave your bike sitting for more than 30 min. you need a jump....this would be completely independent of the carbs. Sounds like you're running a little lean though so might wanna richen a little bit.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by surlistyc

and to richen my bike, do I back out the jets under the emissions plugs or do I screw them in, to richen the mixture?

In=lean
out=Rich

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...dle_mixture%3F

[surlistyc]

It's not that I need a jump, it's more like, if I don't have it connected to another battery, mine will die within 30 seconds of trying to get it started. and it takes a good 2 solid minutes of cranking until I get it started, and then no matter how much throttle I give it, it will hang at 1k RPM for 20-30 seconds then throttle will be responsive, then after full choke and blipping the throttle for a minute, it will run "normally". But during the 2 minutes of cranking, it very slowly starts to rumble to life.

Just checked the plugs. they were brown, but one of them had some "crud" around the Anode(?) the part closest to the threads, and the other plug, the threads were black.
These are brand new K&N plugs, got them about a month ago.

I was going to take my battery to autozone tomorrow. I had a volt meter here and tested 11.5 without the key in, and with the key in/on it dropped to about 8.5-9. This battery is also brand new, about 3 months old, but when I first got it, I drained it pretty bad a couple times, so I'm sure this battery is mostly shot. Although, about a month ago, I had it tested at autozone and they said it was fine.

But I mean, would any of what has been said be the cause?

For instance. This exact thing (mostly) happened when one of my rocker arms broke. but only this time, I was just mad and fed up with this bike, and tried like hell to get it started, and did. (eventually) When my rocker arm broke, I tried a few times to start it, but that's it. and I would think if that was the case this time. It would be just as hard to start the bike again when it's hot, if at all.


I thought that maybe it was flooded, but the plugs were unusually dry.

I'm trying to give as much information as possible, even if it seems irrelevant. You never know.

Thanks so far guys.

[CC Cowboy]

Head gasket

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by surlistyc

.......I mean, after we cleaned the carbs, I rode it around and noticed that when the RPM needle dropped to about 3k it would almost stop there and then slowly come back down. Horrible idle on cold start up to. So we backed out those "jets?" and it seemed to help a little with that? maybe this could have something to do with it as well?

If the bike starts better with open throttle, your idle mix is too rich.

Those "jets" need to be screw all the way in (gently) and then turn out 2 or 2-1/2 turns each.

It is also possible that the adjustment of the floats was affected somehow during the cleaning, and you have a level of fuel inside the bowls that is too high (hence, the smell of gas).

http://forums.ninja250.org/posting.p...&t=85429&tro=1

You are going to ruin your battery fast with those deep discharges.

[FvnnyL3tt3r1ng]

Originally Posted by surlistyc

I was going to take my battery to autozone tomorrow. I had a volt meter here and tested 11.5 without the key in, and with the key in/on it dropped to about 8.5-9. This battery is also brand new, about 3 months old, but when I first got it, I drained it pretty bad a couple times, so I'm sure this battery is mostly shot. Although, about a month ago, I had it tested at autozone and they said it was fine.

I'm pretty sure a reading of below 12 is a tell tale DEAD battery. It shouldn't drop much at all with the key in it..... Can you swap with a friend to eliminate it from the equation? Take it to the auto shop and have it tested/recharged again.

I've done a little research on batteries as I'm planning on buying some solar and car/bike batteries are not meant to be discharged very far, but can be discharged heavily to start your vehicle. When it drops below a certain voltage it no longer will want to take a charge. 9 volts is a lonnnnggg shot from the recommended 12.6V. That's ~71% charge which is in the deep end for these types of batteries.