April 16th, 2013, 07:20 PM | #41 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Al
Location: MI, metro detroit area
Join Date: Apr 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250r Posts: 228
|
sorry it took so long to respond.. It has been a busy week of schools with finals closing in and a preparing for a work trip *eek.* After 3 days of work, i would think to call this project a success. Started on Thursday after work, Friday after work, and Saturday after work.
I was able to set the jet to 98 as recommended and turned the screws in (clockwise) and then out 2.5 turns each (counterclockwise). It either idles at 2k or 1500, not sure to much only rode once really once (testing it around after putting her back together for like 15 mins and then 30 min ride home (freeway). Warm up is quick, hardly need the choke (in cold MI)! I will have to double check my idle - what else do i need to check to see if it is tuned correctly. Driving it otw home Sat night felt good butt dyno'd. Had good pickup low end and high end seemed pretty good. I wanna say it felt more responsive and powerful but it was hard to tell overall. I will eventually get a MOS and tune some more later - now that i somewhat understand it from all of the links and explanations i received. Some notes on the install: If i knew how much trouble i was going to have reconnecting the carbs to engine and the airbox i would have not bought the K&N stock filter replacement and just did the remove Airbox mod with the pod filters. That **** was so damn difficult. Every time we thought we had them in and tightend them - the clamps got loose and had to unscrew clamps. The airbox lips also kept bending into the carb because it was not aligned properly with the next part i mention. Only after a while i noticed the top right side of the airbox that went into a hole with a rubber grommet messed everything up. Friend wanted to settle with leaving the carb and airbox showing some blue lines -- I somehow knew that that was not correct. We had a hell of a time taking it off so i knew it they had to have a snug fit and started inspected the airbox. Got the carbs flush to engine, had to take off the clamps on the airbox, had to push down on the airbox and then push it forward carefully to make it in the hole with that rubber gromet without making the lips of the airbox bend inside the carb. with my fingers i was able to just pull back on the sides of the airbox lips and it would expand (no clamps) and went all the way around the carb again. Tightened the engine to carb clamps first and then put on the carb to airbox clamps back, rotated them to the alan head was facing up so u can go just above it the next time to losen them. The old position was garbage. TO ANYONE ABOUT TO DO THIS MOD: take some before and after pics of stuff you are going to disconnect, so you have a base line of what to expect. Besides the actual carbs eating a screw on the carb and reattaching the carbs. this was pretty simple. Taking everything off was pretty cake. Doing the actual jetting and needle adjustment wasnt to bad. That carb diaphragm was iffy at best, but all in all i had like 0% confidence that i would achieve this mod - i am more technically inclined with computers (i can build one and tear it down with my eyes closed =D ) than mechanically with bikes or cars (zero experience before my bike). Only with my bike i have learned so much, the help that i had was my friend who works on his car - but probably a novice in the middle (also installed a full exhaust system to his car about 2 weeks ago). With that said You can use this post as a guideline with the major help from @csmith12 and @kbryant and the other posters who commented with some insight. I would like to thank you all. if only i took more pics to have a full DIY so someone who was as noob as me could follow it a bit easier. I think i can probably do this all in one day now. I do have some other random questions along the process but i will have to ask them later if you guys are willing to stick around.
__________________________________________________
www.SafetyPaws.org |
|
April 17th, 2013, 06:29 AM | #42 | |
The Corner Whisperer
Name: Chris (aka Reactor)
Location: Northern KY
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much.
MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13
|
Quote:
Getting the carbs back in is the hardest part of the entire process. I am glad to see you had the patience to see it through. The pods do make things much easier as you have room to work. This is not an option for many who race in the "stock" classes, the airbox is required. Ride it some more and you should get a good feel if the tune needs more attention. Judge the tune after the bike is warm (including idle). If you really take your time with it and dial it in well, you will have a little surge of pulling power around 7k or 8k that is definitely stronger than before. Along with better response throughout. We aren't going anywhere, ask any other questions you need.
__________________________________________________
Goal: Shake A Million Hands | Look through the corners | Track Day Prep | Closest track? | The Mid-Ohio School |
|
|
August 7th, 2013, 04:42 AM | #43 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Thomas
Location: Montréal
Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R Special Edition (sold), 2017 CRF250 Rally Posts: 384
|
Glad I found that thread, it will be very useful when I'll install mine, especially putting back the carburetors.
But I have a question. I drilled the slides, at the same time I shimmed the needles, this past spring since I never thought I would put an aftermarket exhaust system. But now, I'm putting a quiet core system. What should I do with the holes? Leave them there and proceed with jetting as if they weren't drilled? Plug the holes with some "silicone sealant" or something else? Move the clip on the needles to compensate for the holes? Any other suggestions? Thanks, |
|
August 7th, 2013, 06:09 AM | #44 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Al
Location: MI, metro detroit area
Join Date: Apr 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250r Posts: 228
|
Not sure - what and why did you drill them to begin with (not familiar).
Anyone suggest something?
__________________________________________________
www.SafetyPaws.org |
|
August 7th, 2013, 06:45 AM | #45 |
Area P
Name: Kerry
Location: SoCal & South Florida
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 439
|
Drilling the slide hole on a CV carb can allow the slide to open/close faster. Possibly improving throttle response, depending on the spring pressure and actual hole size on some applications. But it can also create other issues for the same reasons. It was a popular mod on the early models, but not on the 08-12 models. And even on the older models, it was debatable as to the actual benefits, depending on other mods done in conjunction.
|
|
August 7th, 2013, 07:10 AM | #46 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Thomas
Location: Montréal
Join Date: May 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R Special Edition (sold), 2017 CRF250 Rally Posts: 384
|
I found out that it improved the throttle response (or my lack of controlling it adequately).
Was it real or was it a "placebo effect", I can't tell, but in traffic, the bike was less "jerky" at very low speed. So, it shouldn't impair the "basic" jetting set up? |
|
August 7th, 2013, 09:09 AM | #47 |
Area P
Name: Kerry
Location: SoCal & South Florida
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 439
|
Further changes to your jetting would depend on how it actually performs when you install the new exhaust.
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
For Trade: Area P 12" can for 18" quiet core | staulkor | Motorcycle-related | 5 | October 8th, 2012 09:21 PM |
Used & abused Area P 18" Quiet Core | Momaru | Motorcycle-related | 5 | June 24th, 2012 08:06 AM |
Area-P 18" Quiet Core SS Full Exhaust Video | Slono | 2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk | 30 | March 22nd, 2012 09:31 PM |
WTB: Area P 18" Quiet Core Full Exhaust System | Slono | Items Wanted | 0 | January 1st, 2012 04:00 AM |
Sound Clip - Area P 18" Quiet Core vs. Stock | noche_caliente | 2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Farkles | 20 | August 31st, 2009 05:47 AM |
|
|