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Old May 21st, 2013, 09:23 AM   #1
fr1dayn1ght
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Coolant leak when close to red line?

Hi guys, me again...sorry for asking too many times...I tried to search for it but I couldn't find anyone with my exact problem.

I filled my bike with coolant to the top of the radiator, and on the 'F' line on the overflow tank. But every time I see the temperature gauge comes close to red line (about 2-3 milimeters close) there is green coolant draining down the overflow tube making a big puddle, what could be the problem?

Some people said radiator cap so I tried cleaning it but I guess that didn't work, but I couldn't figure out how a cap could be the problem for leaking coolant down bottom...someone enlighten me
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Old May 21st, 2013, 09:28 AM   #2
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Old May 21st, 2013, 01:47 PM   #3
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Don't ride it unless you love to fix broken things (the engine in this case).

I'd check your thermostat and coolant flow for starters.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 02:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fr1dayn1ght View Post
the temperature gauge comes close to red line
this is a problem. check coolant condition. if coolant is fine, check water pump and thermostat functionality. check radiator isn't clogged or covered in animals.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 02:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fr1dayn1ght View Post
....I filled my bike with coolant to the top of the radiator, and on the 'F' line on the overflow tank. But every time I see the temperature gauge comes close to red line (about 2-3 milimeters close) there is green coolant draining down the overflow tube making a big puddle, what could be the problem?

Some people said radiator cap so I tried cleaning it but I guess that didn't work, but I couldn't figure out how a cap could be the problem for leaking coolant down bottom...someone enlighten me
Does your cooling fan turn on at all?
Do you drive slow or in stop and go traffic a lot?
How long or hard do you ride before the engine starts to overheat?


Here is how the radiator cap plays a role in the coolant system;

The cap has two seals. The outer or upper seal, seals the radiator, the inner or lower seal, seals the filler neck. The spring holds the inner seal down and keeps the pressure at 16 psi. If the spring is weak it will allow coolant to go past the seal and exit thru the overflow hose. A faulty cap can easily be checked. You need cooling system pressure tester. Your local auto parts store should be able to test it for you. Radiator Cap Relief Pressure should be 14-18 psi.

Also, take a peak at the Trouble Shooting Guide to see what other factors can attribute to overheating.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 06:02 PM   #6
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Thanks for the quick respond guys! I just ordered new gasket and radiator cap, not sure if that will help...just to take it out of the picture.

Quote:
Originally Posted by alex.s View Post
this is a problem. check coolant condition. if coolant is fine, check water pump and thermostat functionality. check radiator isn't clogged or covered in animals.
My coolant is new, so I guess that's not the problem.
I think I can find the thermostat since I know how it look like, but where is the water pump?
I'll check the radiator tomorrow too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBlue1 View Post
Does your cooling fan turn on at all?
Do you drive slow or in stop and go traffic a lot?
How long or hard do you ride before the engine starts to overheat?
Yes my fan runs when temp gauge come close to red line.
I do ride in stop and go frequently when I go to work and get off work, i do try to lane split to get airflow but sometimes the road is just too tight.
When I'm constantly moving there was no problem (temp gauge close to the left side) but when I run slow or stop for redlight it overheat FAST, around 10-15min til close to red line
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Old May 23rd, 2013, 08:17 PM   #7
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Hi guys, some update.
I checked the thermostat in a boiling pot today and it opened, so my thermostat is fine. Then while the thermostat still off, I turned on the engine and let it run for like 2 seconds, I saw coolant came out of the hose that connect to the thermostat, so I guess my water pump is also working.
Quote from ninja.org "If it does open: With the thermostat housing open, crank the engine over a little bit and see if you get coolant movement (this will be messy). If there's coolant, the water pump is fine. If not, then you need a new pump."

At this point I'm just gonna wait for the new radiator cap and see if that works. And IF the radiator cap wasn't the problem then I'm pretty much at a dead end.

Oh and btw, attached picture of a rod thingy near the valve stuff. There is some coolant on it (maybe from the thermostat hose when I disconnected it) and the rod seems loose (I can wriggle it a bit), is that how it supposed to be? Im just paranoid ...

Thanks!
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File Type: jpg 20130523_214436.jpg (84.2 KB, 2 views)
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Old May 30th, 2013, 10:13 AM   #8
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Hi guys just an update, in case anyone has the same problem
I just replaced the radiator cap and hasn't seen the problem since!
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Old May 30th, 2013, 10:16 AM   #9
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you said your bike gets up to redline temperature... as in its overheating? is it still overheating?
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Old May 30th, 2013, 10:38 AM   #10
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yeah.... if its getting in the red that still a problem...
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Old May 30th, 2013, 10:51 AM   #11
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I have been keeping my eyes on the temp,
now when the temp gauge go a bit more than half way at stop, the fan comes on and the temp went down,
I was stucking long at redlight today and the temp gauge just going back and forth about over half way mark. Not sure if that is normal but its not hitting redline so I guess it's ok
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Old June 1st, 2013, 06:42 AM   #12
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Your bike just may not be warming up fully. Once you ride it for a while it should overheat if the problem wasn't fixed.... Be very careful and don't drive an overheating bike unless you don't mind repairing your engine!
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Old June 1st, 2013, 07:36 AM   #13
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Dont know about a ninja but on a car temperature swings like that are indicative of a possible sticky thermostat.
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