how screwed up is this?

peterpayne · October 6th, 2013, 06:49 PM

Long story short I broke this screw that holds the header pipes...

Fixable?

Posted via Mobile Device

FvnnyL3tt3r1ng · October 6th, 2013, 07:18 PM

I think it's threaded on both sides. Take some vice grips and see if you can unscrew the whole thing.

Do you go riding through mud a lot or something?

Worst case scenario you'll just need a screw extractor, drill bit and a punch. Possibly a tap to rethread it.....

Motofool · October 6th, 2013, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterpayne

.....Fixable?

Yes; as explained above.

I would use some heat on the bolt because that should be very tight after 6 years in there.

Before you give up, weld some cross bar on the stud (previously disconnecting the battery).

peterpayne · October 7th, 2013, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FvnnyL3tt3r1ng

I think it's threaded on both sides. Take some vice grips and see if you can unscrew the whole thing.

Do you go riding through mud a lot or something?

Worst case scenario you'll just need a screw extractor, drill bit and a punch. Possibly a tap to rethread it.....

Yeah, last time I went out I rode in the mud for a bit, and did not wash it..

Thanks, I think you're right about it being threaded on both ends.

peterpayne · October 7th, 2013, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Motofool

Yes; as explained above.

I would use some heat on the bolt because that should be very tight after 6 years in there.

Before you give up, weld some cross bar on the stud (previously disconnecting the battery).

Thanks!, I'll start by using some penetrating oil such as WD-40 probably for a couple of days.... I don't want to risk breaking the stud where it goes into the engine, I really don't...

fast1075 · October 8th, 2013, 03:21 AM

WD-40 is not a good penetrant, it is designed to displace water (WD = Water Displacing). Go to the auto parts store and get a can of Seafoam "Deep Creep". Use a propane torch to heat up the stud boss (the cylindrical aluminum projection the stud screws into) a little, then spray on the deep creep. Repeat a few times. Give it a few days.

Then warm it up and unscrew the stud. You only want to warm it up a little, so the aluminum expands. If you get it too hot, the stud will also expand.

The proper tool to use is called a stud puller. You may be able to rent one at Autozone. ****CAUTION**** Do not apply any side load to the old stud while breaking it loose. If it does not want to unscrew without much force, repeat the heat soak/deep creep applications. If you break the stud off, you are in a world of poo.

jkv45 · October 8th, 2013, 06:45 AM

^ That's what I'd do with it as well. The right amount of heat will help a lot in that situation.

When you feel it start to move, go forward, then back, as you turn it out - moving slowly only about 1/8 turn out or less each time. It should get easier as you go, but backing-up occasionally is a good idea and usually helps keep it from snapping.

The same type of back-and-forth movement works well if you have spark plugs that are really snug and difficult to remove.

crazymadbastard · October 8th, 2013, 07:29 AM

anyone use the "CRC Freeze Off" penetrant?

Supposedly supercools the the bolt to make it shrink and allow penetrant to soak in better.

October 6th, 2013, 06:49 PM	#1
peterpayne ninjette.org member Name: Pedro Location: Mexico Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): Pregen body with a newgen engine. Posts: 117	how screwed up is this? Long story short I broke this screw that holds the header pipes... Fixable? Posted via Mobile Device

October 6th, 2013, 07:18 PM	#2
FvnnyL3tt3r1ng ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Justin Location: Florida Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 2001 Posts: A lot.	I think it's threaded on both sides. Take some vice grips and see if you can unscrew the whole thing. Do you go riding through mud a lot or something? Worst case scenario you'll just need a screw extractor, drill bit and a punch. Possibly a tap to rethread it..... __________________________________________________ Mods: Offset clutch pressure plate

October 8th, 2013, 03:21 AM	#6
fast1075 ninjette.org guru Name: harry Location: Central Florida Join Date: Sep 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Ninja 250, 2004 Buell XB12s, Honda 110 Elite Posts: 332	WD-40 WD-40 is not a good penetrant, it is designed to displace water (WD = Water Displacing). Go to the auto parts store and get a can of Seafoam "Deep Creep". Use a propane torch to heat up the stud boss (the cylindrical aluminum projection the stud screws into) a little, then spray on the deep creep. Repeat a few times. Give it a few days. Then warm it up and unscrew the stud. You only want to warm it up a little, so the aluminum expands. If you get it too hot, the stud will also expand. The proper tool to use is called a stud puller. You may be able to rent one at Autozone. **CAUTION** Do not apply any side load to the old stud while breaking it loose. If it does not want to unscrew without much force, repeat the heat soak/deep creep applications. If you break the stud off, you are in a world of poo.

October 8th, 2013, 07:29 AM	#8
crazymadbastard I'm crazy,your excuse is? Name: Winston Location: Connecticut Join Date: May 2013 Motorcycle(s): 250 2007 ninja Posts: A lot.	anyone use the "CRC Freeze Off" penetrant? Supposedly supercools the the bolt to make it shrink and allow penetrant to soak in better. __________________________________________________ My Cafe Racer Build My intro post

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October 8th, 2013, 06:45 AM	#7
jkv45 Rev Limiter Name: Jay Location: WI Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot. MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16	^ That's what I'd do with it as well. The right amount of heat will help a lot in that situation. When you feel it start to move, go forward, then back, as you turn it out - moving slowly only about 1/8 turn out or less each time. It should get easier as you go, but backing-up occasionally is a good idea and usually helps keep it from snapping. The same type of back-and-forth movement works well if you have spark plugs that are really snug and difficult to remove.