Questions on gearing.

[JayJay]

Hey everyone, please don't get on me for this being my first post!

I have a 2012 Ninja 250, it is lowered a little(i have tiny legs!). I am trying to decide if i want to change the gearing on my bike, i weigh about 190-200 with all my gear and a full backpack. I do a fair amount of what i would consider highway riding, just cruising at 60-70, but i do a fair amount of stop and go through small towns and neighborhoods. It is all stock right now, and i'm comfortable with it.

I have read a that a lot of people have re-geared to a 15/43 or a 15/41. Does anyone have any experiences they can share??

I was talking with my boyfriend, and he told me i should read about gearing at 14/43. Just going down 2 teeth in the back....

Thank you everyone! I hope to get some info!

-Jess

[allanoue]

Here is long thread on that subject. My 2 cents was when I had my 09 I was happy with stock and I have about 10 lbs on you.
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=98170

[johncrist1988]

Originally Posted by JayJay

Hey everyone, please don't get on me for this being my first post!

I have a 2012 Ninja 250, it is lowered a little(i have tiny legs!). I am trying to decide if i want to change the gearing on my bike, i weigh about 190-200 with all my gear and a full backpack. I do a fair amount of what i would consider highway riding, just cruising at 60-70, but i do a fair amount of stop and go through small towns and neighborhoods. It is all stock right now, and i'm comfortable with it.

I have read a that a lot of people have re-geared to a 15/43 or a 15/41. Does anyone have any experiences they can share??

I was talking with my boyfriend, and he told me i should read about gearing at 14/43. Just going down 2 teeth in the back....

Thank you everyone! I hope to get some info!

-Jess

Welcome to the forums! Nobody is going to get on you about your first post

I'm like you, same weight range, probably similar height, too. I've tried +1/-2 on a suggestion by many here and it works. I prefer stock, though, and here's why.

+1/-2 doesn't affect your get-up-and-go off the light by much but it's noticeable to me. I spend more time on side streets than I do on the highway, and truth be told, the RPMs on my 2010 hold around 9k at 80, which isn't terribad. The gas mileage isn't bad, passing isn't bad... it's just not all around a bad experience.

Going +1/-2 limits me to about 85MPH, which can be troublesome on the highway. Stock I can hit 107MPH for passing, which is more than adequate. It's up to you to decide if ~85 is enough for you, as people drive differently in different places (I'm in Phoenix, AZ).

That's my feedback Stock works for me and I enjoy the ride a lot. It doesn't cost anything but a few bucks and some time to try +1/-2, +1/0, 0/-2, so get out there and give them a go!

[Motofool]

Welcome, Jessica !!!

Original sprockets are a good compromise between acceleration and max rpm's while cruising.

[cadd]

John, how does +1 up front and -2 in the rear lower your top speed to 85? In theory, it should increase your top speed and decrease your acceleration.

[Ghostt]

Welcome, try 15T front sprocket, it's easy and cheap to do, and if you don't like it, switch it back, leave the rear sprocket alone.

Personally I've done 15/43, I weighed about 230lbs with full gear, but I have a tendency to exceed the posted speed limits.

Also keep in mind that the Ninjette loves to rev, and the power band is way up there, as all small displacement engine.

[wardie]

I put almost 9,000 miles in a couple of months on my new out of the crate 250 last year. I changed to 15/41 for gas mileage and lower rpm's on top end.

I did not miss any acceleration but think the optimum gearing for touring and acceleration is 15/43.

Right now my bike will top out at 93 mph and can't pull any more because of the tall gearing. Just some thoughts.

Wardie

[LittleRedNinjette]

I never changed the gearing in my 2012 250. I road rt95 (speed limit is between 55 and 65 depending on where you are) daily and never had a issue. my

[Hero Danny]

Wouldn't you also need a speedo healer?

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

Wouldn't you also need a speedo healer?

No, speedo is driven mechanically from the front wheel.

[Racer x]

I like the 15/43 set up. Seems to be the best balance. But the stock gearing is not that bad

[jkv45]

I would say to give a +1 counershaft sprocket a try and leave the rear sprocket standard. It's simple, inexpensive, and easy to undo.

You most likely won't notice a loss of acceleration around town once you are rolling and you will drop about 500 RPMs cruising.

The stock gearing is a pretty good compromise, but if you want to drop the cruising revs you will give up some acceleration, so you need to try it and see if it's worth the trade-off for you.

[csmith12]

Jay

[JayJay]

I paid plenty of attention this morning on my ride in, running about 70mph, i'm at ~9200 rpms???

the chain is stretched a bit, and needs to be replaced, and the bike has ~12k miles on it, i don't know if any of that has anything to do with that.... but it seems to be way higher than what i'm hearing of on here @70mph?

[LittleRedNinjette]

Sound about right. These bikes like the high RPMs. Thats where you really get the power.

[JayJay]

Should i be concerned with regearing my bike then? powerband is 7-9, and from my newbie understanding being out of the powerband is bad??

[DEFY]

if your cruising on 70 mph I get about 7000 RPM - 75000 RPM. You might get 9200 rpms if your throttle up to 70 MPH.

[JayJay]

Defy, maybe you weigh less than me??
I'm not even sure weight affects it...

I'm trying to learn! Lol!

[DEFY]

I should be in the same weight group as you, about 200+ with AGATT. I could also be lying out my arse and not no it. I will have to check my figures. But I remember getting 6000 rpms at 60 mph and the only time I get close to 10000 rpms, in 6th, is usually when I am throttle down at 80 mph.

[allanoue]

The RPM to speed ratio has nothing to do with how big or small anyone is.

It will affect acceleration, but not top speed, just how long it takes to get there.

[JayJay]

Lol! Crusing this morning @70mph, ~75degree, way humid, (general 8am SE texas weather) i was turning 9000-9300 rpm's.

Maybe my bike's worn out??

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by JayJay

Should i be concerned with regearing my bike then? powerband is 7-9, and from my newbie understanding being out of the powerband is bad??

The powerband (peak HP) for the New Gen Ninja (like yours) is closer to 9500 to 11000, with a stock engine tapering off slowly after that.

At 9200 you are just starting to get close to peak power. Torque is pretty consistent from 8000 to 10000.

Cruising where you are now (9200) isn't a problem, but if you gear it down you may notice less power available while cruising. As long as you are on flat ground I wouldn't think it would be too noticeable. With the Ninja, you need to plan on downshifting at least a gear or two when cruising to get any type of acceleration anyway. If you want to pass, plan on getting into the 9500 range or higher. Anything less and you will be waiting...

[JayJay]

Ooooh, i thought the powerband was lower than that...
Then if the powerband is in fact, where you told me itis, then i'm fine.

I'm new, and worried i'm going to hurt the bike....

[LittleRedNinjette]

Thats why you ask the questions.

[allanoue]

Our wee bikes are happy running 11k for hours and hours.
Wined her up and let her go, and don't be afraid of hitting the red line limiter now and again.

[JayJay]

Thanks everyone

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by JayJay

Ooooh, i thought the powerband was lower than that...
Then if the powerband is in fact, where you told me itis, then i'm fine.

I'm new, and worried i'm going to hurt the bike....

As long as you have the engine properly tuned, adjusted, and maintained, you are fine.

Quality oil kept at the proper level is a requirement for longevity. Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic is a good (and very common) choice for the Ninja. When run at high RPMs for extended periods the Ninja will draw some amount of oil into the airbox from the crackcase breather, so you need to check the oil level properly and often.

If everything is in-order, extended running at redline is not a problem.

[LittleRedNinjette]

I'm an Amsoil snob.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by LittleRedNinjette

I'm an Amsoil snob.

I'm a Redline Ester snob, but it's not required for most conditions. Rotella T6 covers all the bases and is more than adequate unless you are willing to spend a lot more.

[JayJay]

Thatsgood info for me too, i'm going to be doing an oil change soon!

Since i've got you all here....any recommendations on shoes for him?
I don't need tires right now, but soon. I know the selection is pretty limited because of the size. The mechanic shop that's nearest for me to take it to can order whatever, as long as it's made in the 110/70X17(f) and the 130/70x17(r).

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by csmith12

No, speedo is driven mechanically from the front wheel.

Ah, you need one for my 600rr, that's why I asked. Good to know.

[allanoue]

Originally Posted by JayJay

Thatsgood info for me too, i'm going to be doing an oil change soon!

Since i've got you all here....any recommendations on shoes for him?
I don't need tires right now, but soon. I know the selection is pretty limited because of the size. The mechanic shop that's nearest for me to take it to can order whatever, as long as it's made in the 110/70X17(f) and the 130/70x17(r).

Michelin pilot streets

[JayJay]

Any experience with IRC RX01's?

[LittleRedNinjette]

Originally Posted by allanoue

Michelin pilot streets

^^ this. Or roads if you want to go bigger.

Can you take the rims off the bike? Or know someone who can? If so just order the tires online and bring them and the rims to a shop and don't tell them what you have. The you're more open to options.

[bruce71198]

Originally Posted by JayJay

Should i be concerned with regearing my bike then? powerband is 7-9, and from my newbie understanding being out of the powerband is bad??

I'll try to give you gearing 101.
Each of the 6 gears in your motorcycles transmission has a ratio, the amount of revolutions inputted to the amount of revolutions outputted. These gear ratios are set by an engineer at Kawasaki and aren't able to be altered. Your sprockets are what are known as the "final drive". These can be altered by you to achieve whatever goal you desire (fuel economy, better off the line acceleration or ideal highway speed RPM). You can mathematically figure your final drive ratio by dividing the teeth on the driven gear (rear) by the teeth on the driven gear (front sprocket). The lower the number the more top speed the bike can attain but the "off the line" acceleration will suffer. If you drop the ratio to far the bike just won't make enough power to accelerate and may just quit pulling in 6th gear. it seems that somewhere in the low 3.00:1 gives the best of all worlds on the street.
As far as which sprocket to change is up to you. Adding or subtracting 1 tooth on the front sprocket equates to about 3 teeth on the rear sprocket. This has an effect on your chain length and adjustment, 1 tooth on the front will not require adding links too the chain but 3 teeth on the rear may. Also, increasing the radius on the front sprocket will increase chain life, in a small way.
I think 9200rpm at 70 mph is a little high. Your cruising, you don't need to be in the meat of the power band. If the need arrises for more power all you need to do is drop down a few gears until it's in the power band.

[DmbShn41]

15T on the front is great. Backs off the jumpy 1st gear, and still keeps it enough to pull on the highway at speed. Cheap, simple upgrade. My opinion, should have been 15T from factory.

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by cadd

John, how does +1 up front and -2 in the rear lower your top speed to 85? In theory, it should increase your top speed and decrease your acceleration.

No, in theory, you just limit your acceleration. Don't forget that these bikes are horsepower limited from the factory, not gearing limited.

What they should have done was raised 6th gear ratio for cruising and kept everything else the same. Still gives you options with sprockets and final drive ratio, but makes the highway more tolerable out of the box. I'm always searching for 7th gear when i'm doing more than 60.

[DmbShn41]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

No, in theory, you just limit your acceleration. Don't forget that these bikes are horsepower limited from the factory, not gearing limited.

What they should have done was raised 6th gear ratio for cruising and kept everything else the same. Still gives you options with sprockets and final drive ratio, but makes the highway more tolerable out of the box. I'm always searching for 7th gear when i'm doing more than 60.

I've been trying to find 7th gear also...thinking of a 43 in the rear. Afraid I'll lose too much with 15/43. Don't find any value in 15/44...

[choneofakind]

I rock 15/45. it's a nice compromise for someone who doesn't regularly visit the highway for long periods of time, but still wants a little longer gears.

Used to run 14/47. that was a hoot on corner exit and roll-on. But was supperrrrrr buzzy at highway speed. Lol. 10k at 65 haha