Only runs with the choke on. '09 250r.

[AubreyGuad]

This is my first bike. I bought it in fairly rough shape. You can see where it had been on it sides a time or two. The guy I bought it from said it had been sitting for over 2 years. So the first thing I did, was remove the carburetor and thoroughly clean it. Took it apart, soaked it, and sprayed every thing with carb cleaner. Put it back on the bike yesterday, with fresh gas in the tank. It would turn over but would not run. So I called it a day.

Today I return and the first thing I tried to do was crank it. It would turn over, and run but only with the choke fully open. As soon as I touch the throttle, or cut the choke off, it dies. So I let it run for a few minutes with the choke on, and it does the same thing. I am not sure where to go from here. Like I said, this is my first bike and first time working on one. Any help would be great.

Thanks.

[taz]

take the carbs back apart and pull the jets out and clean them

[jkv45]

Carb cleaning is tricky. There's more to it than meets the eye. Even with the best intentions (and experience) it can take people a few times to get it right.

As taz noted, chances are the jets and/or idle passages are not completely clean. There are other things (emissions caps removal, adjustments) that should be done when the carbs are off as well.

You can find info here - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Intake - or you can have them professionally cleaned, adjusted, and tested by our very own ducatiman.

You can find him with a search, or he may chime in.

[csmith12]

There is a thread here labeled "secret passages." It is one of the best carb cleaning vids you will ever need to watch.

[AubreyGuad]

Ok cool. I appreciate the reference. One more question, when reinstalling the jets, especially the idle jets, is there any specific way they need to be adjusted or do I just screw them back in. I don't want to over/under do anything here.

Thanks.

[Triple Jim]

Nothing special, you screw them in firmly, but not so tight as to strip the screwdriver slots, or make them hard to remove next time.

[AubreyGuad]

Ok guys. I am back again today. Yesterday I removed my carb again. This time, extra thorough. Turns out I did miss a couple of clogged jets that I missed in my previously cleaning. I blew through every orifice with carb clean and compressed air.

I go to reinstall the carb today. I am having the same issues. It dies after turning off the choke and/or touching the throttle. And when I touch the throttle, I ease it, so it is not like I am trying to hot rod it so to speak.

Anyways, I am stuck once again. Is it possible that I could have a fuel line swapped or backwards? There were a couple of lines I wasn't 100% sure about where they went. I just put them where they seemed to reach and fit. Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks.

[taz]

have you checked the rubber boots in the middle of the carbs and engine making sure there is no cracks

[AubreyGuad]

Yes I have checked that. All of that looks good.

[ducatiman]

is fuel actually reaching the bowls?

to check...loosen the bowl drain screws, one side at a time..a small hose on the drain nipple draining into a cup OR direct into a cup...whichever method is easier or more convenient to you........should net 45-50cc per carb.

How far did you go within your clean? ...did you pull the pilot screws? Float valves? Clean the seats? Pull and clean the emulsion tubes?

[AubreyGuad]

Yes ducatiman. I pulled everything out of the carb. I went back to tinkering with it after this post. I finally got it to run and turn over with out the choke.

I did not have as much fuel in the tank as I thought I did. So I added some and sat the bike up this time while starting. Played with it while it was attempting to turn over. Finally, messing with the throttle did some good. It fired up and ran with no choke. So I let it run a few minutes while it warmed up.

I did have to adjust the idle cable a good bit. Every time I would rev it up, it seem to idle lower when it came back down. I tried to keep it at 1000 during idle. But that also could result from the throttle not kicking back down by itself after I let it go. I have to manually do that. I tried to adjust the throttle cables to see if that would do any good and it did not make a difference.

I am just thrilled that I got it running. I am still going to have to adjust things here and there (ex. getting the throttle where it is supposed to be, properly running lines, wires, ect.) If I have anymore questions, I will also post. This forum has been a huge help to me.

[jkv45]

What did you set the idle mixture screws to?

Did you bench sync the carbs when they were off?

How old is the gas? Known good gas is absolutely mandatory for carb tuning.

If a tank sits at a low level it can accumulate moisture, which will also mess with tuning.

Idle should be 1300 when fully warmed up.

[AubreyGuad]

I just put the idle screws in. I asked and someone said just anug them. So I did. And no, I did not bench sync the carbs. Would that have anything to do with the throttle not kicking back like supposed to?

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by AubreyGuad

I just put the idle screws in. I asked and someone said just anug them.

No, you asked about the jets. When you said "idle jets" I assumed you meant the pilot jets, which are jets that work in the idle and very low speed range. The idle mixture screws should not be screwed in until they're snug! They should be adjusted for maximum idle speed.

[ducatiman]

Originally Posted by AubreyGuad

I just put the idle screws in. I asked and someone said just anug them. So I did. And no, I did not bench sync the carbs. Would that have anything to do with the throttle not kicking back like supposed to?

bad (or misinterpreted) advise

the accepted starting point for the pilot screws (NOT JETS) is 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated...should get you running, then adjust each side for highest idle, best response (bike fully warm)

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by AubreyGuad

I just put the idle screws in. I asked and someone said just anug them. So I did. And no, I did not bench sync the carbs. Would that have anything to do with the throttle not kicking back like supposed to?

You didn't read through the info in the link I posted...

[AubreyGuad]

I apologize if I miss interpreted anything. I have a new issue today. I was going to test drive my bike. It started just fine with out the choke. Now, when I touch the throttle, it dies. It idles high and low back and forth.

I went to drain the bowls and they are just constantly pouring out gas. Why is this? Is this because of the screws? Or something else?

[Triple Jim]

Assuming your engine is not running, that would indicate the petcock in not closing.

[AubreyGuad]

The only peacock I see is the on/fuel prime peacock. Is there something I am missing?

[AubreyGuad]

Also, would that mean the needle valves aren't seating?

[Triple Jim]

If you open a bowl drain and the petcock (tank valve) is properly closed because the engine is off, a bowl full of fuel should run out, and then stop, since more fuel can't come from the tank. If it keeps flowing, the petcock is open for some reason, like dirt stuck in the main valve. Either that or you have it set in the "prime" position, which means on full time.

When draining the bowls, the fuel level drops, so the float valves ("needle valves" in your post) should open in an attempt to refill the bowls.

[AubreyGuad]

Ok got it. But I did not have it in prime position. Like I said, the peacock I have only has 2 positions. On and prime.

[AubreyGuad]

Any ideas? I am completely stumped. I have been racking my brain all day today.

Like I said, it'll start with out the choke, but as soon as I touch the throttle. Dies. It was running good yesterday. I am trying to figure out why over night, it does not want to run good the next day.

Any help is appreciated.

[Triple Jim]

Do you have an decent inline fuel filter between the tank and carbs, like a pleated paper one?

[AubreyGuad]

I haven't installed one yet. I have not had time to figure out which type to get but that was definitely going to be the next thing I did.

So should I blow through my carb again and install one?

[Bluberryrain]

Originally Posted by AubreyGuad

I haven't installed one yet. I have not had time to figure out which type to get but that was definitely going to be the next thing I did.

So should I blow through my carb again and install one?

I believe he's asking if you have a good inline filter, because if not, it's possible something came through and is preventing the petcock from properly closing while in the "ON" position.

If it keeps flowing, the petcock is open for some reason, like dirt stuck in the main valve. Either that or you have it set in the "prime" position, which means on full time.

So yes, you should take a look at the main valve.

It also sounds like you haven't done this yet either, have you?

the accepted starting point for the pilot screws (NOT JETS) is 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated...should get you running, then adjust each side for highest idle, best response (bike fully warm)

Please detail *exactly* what you have/have not done. It's difficult to provide accurate responses with spotty information.

[AubreyGuad]

I have not put an inline fuel filter in. And I have not adjusted the pilot screws. I was going to do adjust them today but ran out of time. I realized (before someone mentioned it here) that I need to put an inline filter in.

So when I adjust the pilot screws, do I do it with the carb on the bike, or off? Also, what kind of filter should I get? And could I buy one at a dealer or order it?

[ducatiman]

If the pilot screws are still "snugged"....immediately get them out to 2 1/2, you are wasting time. The bike should not be able to run at all with closed pilot screws.

If it DOES run...unmetered fuel is somehow bypassing the pilot circuits.

If you HAVE them at 2 1/2 now and the bike is unable to accept throttle...
I'd submit there are other internal carb issues....at this time above and beyond setting the pilot screws for best running.

The petcock must perform correctly as well...repair or replace as called for.

The entire fuel *system* is made of many components, large & small, major and minor...but each must do its own part. The weakest link.....

Carb repair (especially first time) is not necessarily "easy"...a repair being enabled by watching a youtube video or exposure to forum posts may be an unrealistic goal to attain.

There are many scenarios of carb *disrepair*, but acceptable running is first and foremost predicated on genuinely clear circuits and correct setup.

[Triple Jim]

Yes, the reason I asked about an inline filter is that if there's a little dirt in your tank, your carbs can go from clean to clogged in a few seconds. Most old tanks have a little dirt or some rust particles in them.

Unfortunately an inline filter doesn't protect your petcock. Only the inlet screens are ahead of it, so at least make sure they're intact.

The reason I mentioned a pleated paper filter is that I had the sintered metal type in my DT100 fuel line, and a piece of dirt got through and plugged my main jet! I had heard that dirt can get through that type, but wasn't sure I believed it until then.