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Old October 20th, 2013, 04:14 PM   #1
Tragon
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Casual trackie 250

Finally got my hands on a 250 after joining back in May. Just posting this is eye candy for people like myself who like to watch build threads, however lame they might be!

Bone stock, 9500 miles, trashed fairings all around. Mechanically sound and runs good.

The idea: 90% track bike that is CHEAP to run and maintain (ie tires, maint, repairs etc.) I plan on keeping this for a long long time, even after outgrowing it. Ive been on 600s for 5 years and have ridden liters but came down to learn the correct skills.


Typical track mods to be expected:
Rearsets (open to options, I cant seem to decide on one. Want under $250)
Clip-ons (Driven or Woodcraft?)
Sticky tires (Pirelli II's for now)
Emulators, springs, pre-load adjs, oil up front
09 GSXR shock (MAYBE my 08 10r Ohlins if i can get it to fit, why not right?!)
Stainless lines + 09 6r M/C up front
Track fairings


GO!
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Old October 20th, 2013, 05:35 PM   #2
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You're going to love it. It's a blast to ride, just takes some getting use to after coming from bigger bikes.

As far as rear sets, I'm using the SV Racing ones... good quality, but there is a thread on some other options.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=144583
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Old October 20th, 2013, 05:46 PM   #3
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Exhaust and jetting???
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Old October 21st, 2013, 02:41 AM   #4
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You want the Woodcraft clipons to get the risers. The top triple is right at an awkward height.

And an exhaust is mandatory for ground clearance. If you really don't care about power, just go grab any slipon off ebay.

You may or may not like a different master cylinder in the front. Since there is so much less piston area on the brakes than a 600, the squeezing force required goes up 2x what that cylinder required on the 6r. I know some that liked it, but I have not done it because of that. Good SS lines, Vesrah pads, and a non-warped rotor are plenty.
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Old October 21st, 2013, 05:27 AM   #5
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When you say the force goes up...you mean that the lever is much stiffer? If so, that's what im looking for. I love (and am used to) the stiff feel from modern supersports. That is actually what is taking the most to get used to, the soft useless brakes of the 250.


Thanks for the tips! Didnt think I would need an exhaust but if its for ground clearance then so be it!
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Old October 22nd, 2013, 03:59 PM   #6
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You'll find that the stock system gets much more firm with SS lines, good pads and some heat in them. I used to have all sorts of issues with mine till I realized that the rotor was el warpo and replaced it. They feel great now- takes just the right force with 1 finger.

I guess an OEM 600 master is cheap, so you might as well give it a shot. It will give that firm feeling- the question is will it take too much force or not.
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Old October 22nd, 2013, 11:01 PM   #7
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Watching.
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Old December 2nd, 2013, 07:25 PM   #8
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So I have come to a stand still on choosing what items to get.


Driven or Woodcraft clip ons? The woodcraft have risers, but the driven seem to be more aggressive...if I get the drivens will i need to trim a lot of bodywork to make them fit? I have also heard of quality control problems for Woodcraft paint/powder coat.

Also, rearsets. There's the eBay specials, Vortex or the X-Race from sportisi. I can get 2 eBay sets or 2 X-Race for the price of one Vortex...but I do know folding toe levers are handy from experience

X-Race:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-Rears...7bbc97&vxp=mtr

eBay (Sato) specials:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-CNC-Re...3cb225&vxp=mtr
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Old December 3rd, 2013, 07:32 PM   #9
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I vote Woodcraft all the way. If you want, they can go low enough to match the Driven position, but the Driven position cannot match the Woodcraft position. Almost everyone I know runs the clipons right about at the same height as the triple, which the Driven can't do. I've crash tested them plenty and they do well; the replaceable handlebars seem to take all the damage, rather than the goofy vertical cantilever bar.

I run the vortex rearsets, no complaints.
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Old December 3rd, 2013, 11:50 PM   #10
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You get what you pay for, I have woodcraft clipons and rearsets and they are great.
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Old December 4th, 2013, 08:00 AM   #11
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I have Woodcraft clip-ons and haven't had any issues at all. I read about some of the black bars fading but mine are silver. The black clamps have not faded at all. I am thinking about adding rearset adjusters but haven't decided between A&L and Yoshimura yet.
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Old December 4th, 2013, 09:35 AM   #12
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Old December 4th, 2013, 09:39 AM   #13
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Get thee a jet kit and AreaP first. Really. Do it.
Note the usage of "thee". Yes, it's that important.
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Old December 4th, 2013, 11:07 AM   #14
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Can confirm. Area P and jets first.

Woodcraft parts next - black bars will fade to bronze. Who cares?

Then suspension.
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Old December 4th, 2013, 05:30 PM   #15
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Really? You suggest an exhaust before suspension and controls?


I was thinking of the Leo Vince Corse full...would the Area P be the better investment?


I've been keeping a close eye on the 300 engine swaps people have been doing...i was considering that sometime next winter.
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Old December 4th, 2013, 07:41 PM   #16
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Any full racing exhaust with proper jetting will do the trick. Leo Vince is a good brand too. And yes, for a track bike exhaust first. POWA.

Engine swap too many dollars, F that.
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Old March 20th, 2014, 06:26 PM   #17
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Parts are starting to roll in. Just some minor stuff for now, but the big stuff is coming soon. First track weekend of the year May 11th!


AND while pulling the airbox, I found this gem...a bird beak!
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Old March 20th, 2014, 09:56 PM   #18
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Old March 20th, 2014, 10:00 PM   #19
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how does one casually track? just roll in and cruise in the novice group?

seriously though, I'm looking forward to late april/early may when I get to this point myself
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Old March 20th, 2014, 10:03 PM   #20
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Old April 1st, 2014, 04:44 AM   #21
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Did a bit of work yesterday with the 55 and sunny we had here in MI! As you can see, I had a helper...who didn't help.

NGK Iridium Plugs, Fresh oil, new pads, some weight loss from useless brackets, CBR 250hugger and CLEANING. Boy she was dirty underneath the tank!


As she sits now I'm waiting for all the good stuff to come in. Nojima Full exhaust, Rosso II's, Driven clip-ons, SV Racing rearsets, FactoryPro 3 kit, KN 0990, smog block off, Breather filter....sheesh!

Didn't realize I bought so much so quick...well that's what happens when you sell an Ohlins shock!
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Old April 1st, 2014, 05:00 AM   #22
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Old April 3rd, 2014, 05:36 AM   #23
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So I got the SV Racing Rearsets in....and I must say I'm disappointed.

The adjustments are very minimal for the footpeg position and the distance between the footpeg and corner of the top of the heel guard is tiny. I cant plant my foot like I could on other bikes.

On the upside the knurled pegs feel great and are just the right length and the lever action is very solid on both sides.


Overall I'm considering getting the X-Race Cruiser versions, shortening the pegs and maybe keeping the SV's as backup. The adjustment and overall size of them seem to be more in line with what I want. The 3rd picture with the green bike shows the X-Race and if you compare where the shift lever is alone it is a dramatic difference.


ALSO! Can anyone chime in on kickstand solutions? I'm going to cut that damned bracket off but want to be able to take the bike out on the street every once in a while.
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File Type: jpg Picture 438.jpg (123.8 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg 250 chain.jpg (91.2 KB, 12 views)
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Old April 3rd, 2014, 06:13 AM   #24
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lean your bike up next to other bikes...can @alex.s chime in with a picture??

There are also dirt bike stands...not very trust worthy.
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Old April 3rd, 2014, 06:18 AM   #25
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One suggestion on the rearsets - take a close look at the pegs to see if they have a generous breakaway point.

If you go down the mounts will rip out of the frame, unless the peg breaks easily and close to the mount, making a mess and finishing your day.

You may need to add additional holes to guarantee it will break where you want - and have a spare peg or 2 with you.
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Old April 4th, 2014, 07:25 PM   #26
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Gotta the last bits to get her really roaring! Nojima exhaust and the FacPro 3.0 Kit. Hopefully I can get quite a bit done this weekend. Just waiting on the smog block off and my clip ons.

Ordered some Drivens from Motomummy on March 17th...and was just informed 2 days ago that there is a 2-3 week back order on them. Cancelled that and ordered a set of Woodcrafts that should be here next week.
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Old April 4th, 2014, 09:28 PM   #27
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So I got the SV Racing Rearsets in....and I must say I'm disappointed.
Plus their customer service sucks!
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Old April 4th, 2014, 10:11 PM   #28
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ALSO! Can anyone chime in on kickstand solutions? I'm going to cut that damned bracket off but want to be able to take the bike out on the street every once in a while.
with my woodcraft rearsets they have a hole in the peg and dont fold, so i have cut the kickstand mount plate off, and use a dirtbike kickstand in the footpeg hole. when i run it on the street, i dont have bodywork or rear seat on, so the triangle kickstand fits nicely over the rear seat mounts
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Old April 5th, 2014, 12:53 AM   #29
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with my woodcraft rearsets they have a hole in the peg and dont fold, so i have cut the kickstand mount plate off, and use a dirtbike kickstand in the footpeg hole. when i run it on the street, i dont have bodywork or rear seat on, so the triangle kickstand fits nicely over the rear seat mounts
Pics please?
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Old April 5th, 2014, 10:40 AM   #30
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Old April 5th, 2014, 10:50 AM   #31
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Old April 5th, 2014, 11:06 AM   #32
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Old April 5th, 2014, 02:10 PM   #33
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Lovin it. Good job OP Cant wait to get my 600rr this summer so I can dedicate my 250r to the track
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Old April 5th, 2014, 09:24 PM   #34
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That's a good idea for a stand, but that chain doesn't look so good.

What brand is it?
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Old April 5th, 2014, 09:29 PM   #35
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If you're still unhappy with the rearsets I love my Moth's.

A Ninjette thread on them: http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=65448

Club517 on ebay sells them.
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Old April 6th, 2014, 09:53 PM   #36
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Thanks for the pic of the dirt stand. I think I might go that route or something similar.

WELL, I got a ton done over the past two days. Saturday was spent building myself a new work bench and cleaning up the work areas (drywall done!).

Sunday was spent installing the Nojima, jet kit and turning, pod filter and more cleaning of the bike. Seems to run pretty kick ass already! Made a jumper for the kickstand plug but have yet to kill the mounting bracket.

I am having trouble with the Uni-pod crank case breather filter i bought. Its the 5/8" with a SS hose clamp...the little bastard wont stay on. If i tighten the clamp the damn thing pops off, but If i leave it loose I feel like its gonna pop off after I hit the first bump in the road. Any suggestions?
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Old April 7th, 2014, 07:04 PM   #37
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Moar Werk.

Woodcraft clip-ons came in today and I spent the night getting them put on and adjusted. The setting is definitely to low for stock bodywork but I think it looks and feels great. If I have to, I will raise them back up.

It feels like a real racebike finally, not some stupid A-B put-put-putter



All I have left (for this round of mods anyway) is to raise the front end, get the tapered bearings installed, block off plate and stainless lines.

The dogbones are +1.25"... what do all you racer peoples say to that with the stock rear shock? I planned on raising the front end a few MM and will eventually get the GSXR shock mod done. But for now is the +1.25" to much in the back on stock?
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Old April 15th, 2014, 08:48 PM   #38
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Motorcycle(s): 81 KZ 750, 82 GPZ 750, 08 Ninja 250 (Track toy)

Posts: 20
More progress.

Got my PRII's mounted and balanced. Messed with the tuning a smidge to get it to purr better and mounted up my new Vapor (courtesy of the GF for our anniversary!).

The vapor is great! Still getting the speedo dialed in by the rev counter is very accurate. I didnt want to slice and dice the harness so I took an old male connection housing from one of my old bikes and whipped up a direct connection to the harness using the stock RPM leads/wires.

Next up is bodywork for sure but I probably wont get that until after my first trackday of the year in May.
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I admit it, I couldnt use a 600 the way it should be so I decided to restart my bike riding career and learn the right way...ON A TWO FIDDY
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Old April 16th, 2014, 01:33 PM   #39
csmith12
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Name: Chris (aka Reactor)
Location: Northern KY
Join Date: May 2011

Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track)

Posts: Too much.
MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13
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Old May 23rd, 2015, 06:07 PM   #40
Tragon
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Name: Andrew
Location: Michigan
Join Date: May 2013

Motorcycle(s): 81 KZ 750, 82 GPZ 750, 08 Ninja 250 (Track toy)

Posts: 20
Is it considered threadnomancy if you do it to your own thread?

Anyway, LONG hiatus.

Currently about to do some fork maintenance and rejetting and have a couple of questions.

1. If I have no leaks in my forks or seals, should I bother with a full rebuild? Or just drop my new springs and oil in (after draining the old for sure)?

2. Im currently running the 0990 K+N, smog delete/block off and full Nojima exhaust. Carbs are synced and the jetting is Main #110 Pilot #40, needle 3rd clip. All are FacPro Stage 3 items. My idle is pretty rough, but holds around 1500-1600 when fully warmed up. My mid-range feels great but top end is terrible (9K+) and I currently top out at 70mph. Currently if I snap from WOT to 0 it drops all the way down to 800-900RPM. Going closed to WOT is pretty smooth through all gears except 5th and 6th.

Any ideas for directions to go in at this point?
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